Rob Pulham Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share Posted June 17, 2018 The last few sessions have been spent working away on detailing the backheads they are almost there now and I hope that a last session tonight will see them complete. Given the differences in age of the kit there are subtle differences in the castings and some of them have either been upgraded or replaced due to loss over time. And then a now you see, it now you don't moment 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 Having sent the two chassis off to Warren for painting and having completed the last couple of bits on the back heads I made a start on the bodies. First the easy bit fitting the roofs The early kit was pretty much spot on on the two sides but needed rolling a bit to shape on top. The later release kit that I have built the chassis etc for needed everything shaping. I ran it through my GP models rolling bars rolling only the centre section into a curve. I then used my hold and fold to bend the two edge sections to the right angle for the roof - these sections are flat and using the hold and fold helped to take the minor curvature out of them from the etching and foring of the middle section. I floated them through the rollers on a piece of card to help preserve the rivets on the outer side. First the Ian Atkinson version Then the original Tower version 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted June 25, 2018 Author Share Posted June 25, 2018 (edited) Before wandering off to do my demo the weekend before last, I managed to get the valances fitted to one of the bodies. In line with the tender, the front valance piece was pre-curved but not any where near where it would fit - too high. I didn't get a photo of it before I recurved it, but this is what it looked like after the exercise. I have also got them ready for fitting to the second body but I still need to finish removing some of the excess under the body in line with the instructions before I start to add anything. Edited June 25, 2018 by Rob Pulham 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted June 26, 2018 Author Share Posted June 26, 2018 I have had a couple of one step forward, two steps back on the build but I am making good progress. First I detailed up the cab roof and in my usual fashion left the ventilators open. - Epic Fail Oops! had I thought in advance of fitting the cab floor, cutting out the opening would have been a reasonable easy task with the piercing saw. Not being able to get the blade in, I really didn't fancy chain drilling that thickness whitemetal so I took the easy way out and closed the vents. Next came washout plugs. I added the line down either side then discovered more lower down on each side... Next the instructions have you solder two layers and a .45mm pin for the sand box fillers but no instruction to recess them into the body - I only noted it after fitting them as they are in the photos More modification needed... I was going to fit the reversing lever to the cab too but on this I had the foresight to check that I could get the back head in if I did. No chance! So it will need fitting after painting. A friend who is building one of these had made the cab floor removable something that I will consider for the next one. I have made further progress but the photos are still in the camera so they will keep for another day 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 Looks good. Not sure why they've got a cast roof with an etch overlay I would of thought one or the other. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted June 26, 2018 Author Share Posted June 26, 2018 Having got the hiccups behind me, I have cracked on with the detailing of the body. First up more wash out plugs. Then even more washout plugs Then the final (I sincerely hope) pair Finally I started to detail the front end. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted June 26, 2018 Author Share Posted June 26, 2018 Looks good. Not sure why they've got a cast roof with an etch overlay I would of thought one or the other. That's DJH for you, I would have much preferred an etched cab full stop.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 Probably easier to mould the body with the cab roof, but the etched overlay provides for the scale thickness rear overhang? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 Probably easier to mould the body with the cab roof, but the etched overlay provides for the scale thickness rear overhang? It does and an etched stay hides the rear of the cast cab roof. It was an absolute sod to solder on though..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted July 2, 2018 Author Share Posted July 2, 2018 The end is in sight with the first one. The only things left to fit are the mounting blocks to fasten the body to the chassis and I need the chassis back from Warren for that. The kit includes the superb "streamlined" lamps which are fitted in some photos and not in others so it seemed a bit rude not to make them removeable. I have also made good progress on drilling out the many holes on the next one - I am detailing the body while it's fresh in my mind and should be a much quicker process. Photos tomorrow but I was astonished at how thick the cast cab roof was - I broke 10 piercing saw blades cutting out the openings for the whistle and roof ventilators... It's a good job I bought 100 of each size when I got them. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 Try a little wax on the saw blades. Bees is best but I use candle when needed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted July 2, 2018 Author Share Posted July 2, 2018 Thanks Peter, It wasn't lack of lubrication, that caused the breakages it was down to the body being unwieldy and moving in place before I had a chance to start sawing that did most of them. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted July 4, 2018 Author Share Posted July 4, 2018 Photos tomorrow Okay not exactly tomorrow but here they are at last. Just look at the thickness of the cab roof!!! This is a high spec build than the last one so the rivets for the casing are added along the top lastly for now the holes are all ready for fitting the washout plugs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted July 19, 2018 Author Share Posted July 19, 2018 I only recently found out that this existed having conferred with a friend who is also building one. I managed to make it in one piece cutting it from a sheet of brass shim that I bought from China for the purpose (making riveted strips in general not specifically this job). I used my GW models rivet press to form the rivets and then I cut the slot out with a pair of topiary scissors that I use for cutting etches from the frets and removing tags from etched parts etc. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
T30RRA Posted June 22, 2019 Share Posted June 22, 2019 Rob, how did you add the rivets to the top of the casing? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now