RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted June 7, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 7, 2018 Another question concerning controllers that I had not thought about before now is where I am the supply is roughly 10v less than it is in the UK so will say a Gaugemaster one actually work here ? I know for a fact UK hair clippers do not but laptop power packs do, also a UK model Toshiba TV works... A question for the electricians in the group!! A quick read would suggest that the UK is converting to 230v anyway, so my quess is that the guagemaster transformer would be ok. The issue however might be the Hz rating. Again - best to talk to an electrician or Gaugemaster themselves. Their technical specification sheet isn't very "technical" or "specific". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted June 7, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 7, 2018 Current in the UK often drops below the nominal minimum of 220. No problem for a model railway transformer. Just means that your maximum output will not be 12V but more like 11V so max train speed will be less. Most run too fast at 12V anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted June 8, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 8, 2018 This is a drop in voltage of about 5 or 6% at any setting of the controller, and might have an effect on slow running, especially in N gauge where the braking effect and friction from gear trains has a more significant impact on the running. Top speeds are, I agree, far too high anyway; slow, smooth, controlled, running is far more important! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyrids Posted June 8, 2018 Author Share Posted June 8, 2018 Thanks for the replies guys... I emailed the Gaugemaster site and they actually recommended a Kato controller and transformer since they have a 110v and 240v switch apparently and are less sensitive to inconsistent voltages or words to that effect... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyrids Posted June 29, 2018 Author Share Posted June 29, 2018 Some progress the base board has been made and the top is removable from the shelf brackets... the track and point motors etc have arrived also. Another question the Kato controller I have has two female connectors on the side for point switches and such like but it is designed for Kato switches obviously however I am assuming it would be ok to just use two bullet connectors plugged into there instead ? and if so does anyone have any idea of what size ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted June 29, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 29, 2018 You may want to contact Kato to find out. Wealth of info here; http://www.topslotsntrains.com/topslotsntrains/final.asp?ref=Kato-24-829-N-Gauge-ACCESSORY-ADAPTER-&id=7283&manufacturer=%27KATO%20N%20Gauge%27 Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyrids Posted July 6, 2018 Author Share Posted July 6, 2018 (edited) You may want to contact Kato to find out. Wealth of info here; http://www.topslotsntrains.com/topslotsntrains/final.asp?ref=Kato-24-829-N-Gauge-ACCESSORY-ADAPTER-&id=7283&manufacturer=%27KATO%20N%20Gauge%27 Ian Thanks Ian... no response from Kato... after much searching some people say the accessory output is 17v AC others say 12v AC after sticking my little tester in there it tells me its 12v AC so that's useless since the Peco point motors require 16v Gaugemaster said to buy their GMC WM1 but the mains input specified is 240v and all I have here is 220v max so I have emailed them asking if they think there is any chance it might work here or not (some things do)... What would be ideal is a transformer that would accept mains 110v AC - 240v AC and output 16v AC I have been searching and the odd one's I have found don't specify the mains input range other than just saying 240v... Any ideas or suggestions guys please ? other than throwing the motors in the bin and just using bits of string. EDIT: I wonder if placing some sort of capacitor inline from the Kato 12v accessory output would do the trick ? Edited July 6, 2018 by andyrids Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted July 10, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 10, 2018 (edited) I would keep the 12v AC to operate things that require less umph - maybe signal servos etc and look for a mains adapter that will provide the necessary 16v AC. Try here for advice - they show different transformers for kicking 240-110v down to various lower voltages http://www.partridgeelectronics.co.uk/16Cprokit.htm and will probably be able to answer you question. Failing that, look on the US sites as 110v is the mains so any of their transformers should do the trick. Edited July 10, 2018 by ianLMS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyrids Posted July 26, 2018 Author Share Posted July 26, 2018 Found one that will work apparently... and my friend in the UK picked up a couple of loco's, rolling stock and bit's and pieces today to send on to me... reason for doing it that way is so they could be tested to make sure they work beforehand since postage back and for is so damn expensive and takes weeks and having to return defective goods would be a nightmare not to mention having to probably pay import duty twice... So once I receive those I can cobble together some track loosely in order to figure out where I am going to need feeds and isolators etc since despite all of what I have read it is still a little bit unclear... best way is trial and error. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyrids Posted August 16, 2018 Author Share Posted August 16, 2018 Got all of the main components here now... started loosely pinning the track and the feeds in place not connected up yet, might get all the track in place today then do a test run... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyrids Posted August 18, 2018 Author Share Posted August 18, 2018 Well once I connected the feeds up I discovered the need to use insulated joiners... damn short circuits everywhere without haha after un pinning all the track and just joining it back up point by point I figured out exactly where they were needed quickly enough and as a result I had to add one additional feed at the end of the run round loop that I have wired through a push to make contact switch so that tiny section is isolated and only gets powered whilst holding the switch in which is fine becasue I was going to isolate that section anyway. I was going to just pin the track but after trying to push the pins home using various types of pliers and even a nail punch the pins just bend or go in at an angle (very frustrating to say the least)... however I have found some PVA that I was going to use just for the ballast and after experimenting with a short off cut of track I found that I can just run a line of glue along the ends of the sleepers and that holds the track firmly in place thankfully so once its all dry I can remove the pins that are holding the track in position (that were going to get pushed home).I also discovered as somebody mentioned N gauge and failing eyesight makes simple tasks quite difficult attaching fish plates being the most difficult so far requiring me to use the "binoculars" frequently... drinking more wine also actually helps rather than hinders as it does in most cases. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted August 20, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 20, 2018 Looking good!! For all things electrical including basic stuff like insulating gaps/joiners, track sections right up to advanced electronics and DCC, check out Brain Lamberts webpage. http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/ His page helped me navigate through all kinds of issues and complications. I wished I had glued and not pinned my track down. Most recommend using map pins or drawing pins pushed in between the sleepers to hold the track while the glue is drying. You could spread enough glue, lay the track, hold it with pins and ballast at the same time. Enjoy! Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyrids Posted August 22, 2018 Author Share Posted August 22, 2018 Thanks Ian... Yes I have been referring to that guys site quite a few times very informative... I tried drawing pins but they were too big to fit between the rails if they were even slightly off centre and the few map pins that were laying about self destructed whilst trying to push them in (poor quality pins).My thoughts were to do exactly that with the ballast only set back was I don't have any ballast as yet ! and waiting the two weeks for it to arrive would have held up progress ... Two guys at Gaugemaster have been very helpful in answering my questions and offering up answers and solutions.... they do a special ballast glue that you apply over the top of the ballast so I plan to have a go with that stuff I did wonder though if it's just not the same as watering down the PVA I already have a little bit ?One thing I can't seem to find any real answers to is how do I ballast around and in between the moving rail and sleeper of the points without it getting glued in place ?Gaugemaster also told me that their electro magnet works with the Dapol easy shunt couplings so that is what I am going to use when the time comes as the stock ones are terrible mainly due to the rolling stock not being heavy enough they suggested using "liquid gravity" either inside the stock or carefully stuck to the bottom. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted August 23, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 23, 2018 There are different methods for glueing down the ballast and many video's on You-Tube will help. For most things scenic, look up Luke Towan on You-Tube - he explains things very well and produces exceptional scenery. I have used diluted PVA (with a drop of washing up liquid), however, if you make it too weak, the ballast simply breaks up when you touch it. Too strong and it doesnt flow. Wet the ballast first, and apply the diluted mix using a dropper, pippette, syringe etc. Washing up liquid is a must to reduce surface tension. Deluxe Models do two forms of ballast fixing. One is a dry mix which you mix in the ballast and simply add water over the top (https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/en/scale-plastics/108-ballast-magic-5060243901507.html), the other is a ready made ballast glue which is already diluted (https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/en/scale-plastics/104-ballast-bond-5060243901460.html?search_query=ballast&results=3). I have used the ballast bond and it works really well. Again, wetting the ballast first helps it flow. There are several other options which other folks on here might recommend for ballasting, however, the method i used was to mask off the point blades, apply loose ballast to the point and around the tie bar/moving parts, wiggle the tie-bar back and forth to ensure free movement, using a brush or tweezers ensure loose chippings are removed from tops of sleepers etc, apply glue with a fine pin-point applicator. Wipe off any excess glue around the tie-bar/blades and move it on occasion to prevent it from sticking. Any dried glue/stuck ballast can be removed when its dried quie easily. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyrids Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 Electrics all done now (apart from the electromagnets since I don't have them yet but figure they could still be fitted at a later stage) and it looks like a telephone exchange even after tidying it up anyway at least they work...Finding something to cut down the Peco point control rods is proving to be quite difficult especially in this country, going to have another go with the wire cutters and have the girlfriend support the tie bar, failing that I guess I will have to order some Dremel cutting disks and a shaft to put in my little Bosch drill... it's amazing how the simplest of tasks seem to pose problems when it comes to railway modelling. Thank's for the advice regarding the ballast that Deluxe Materials kit and the pin point syringes look to be exactly what I need especially since I don't have any "tools" as such for actually laying ballast.. I will probably be ordering the actual ballast from Gauagemaster so will have to ask them approximately how much I need for 6 meters of track as I have no idea, one tub looks to be enough but then again I would rather have more than less especially due to additional shipping costs or reordering more if I am short. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted August 28, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 28, 2018 Good hard side cutters such as Xuron are good but the hard steel rod may damage the blade. I used a pair of old cheap heavy duty cutters found in one of those multi-tool kits sold in petrol stations. The only thing to watch using a dremel type tool is making sure the steel doesnt heat up and melt the tie-bar. A good quality super sharp disc cutter will ensure a fast cut, keeping heat transfer to a minimum. A blunt, cheaper blade will require a longer cutting time, meaning more heat and more time for the heat to melt the plastic. I use the ballast applicator which is basically a hopper with slots which fit over the rails. It only works for plain track, but I then use a tea-spoon for the points and tamper it down with a briush/finger etc. https://www.buffersmodelrailways.com/proses-bs-n-01--n-gauge-ballast-spreader. Bit pricey, but very handy. Mine came from Green Scene. Extra ballast is always handy. Never know when you might need to lift and re-lay some track (sun damaged mine not too long ago and had to relay around 2 metres of track). Get the finest grade you can. Green Scenes do a very convincing ballast, as do woodland scenics, Gaugemaster and several others. Most recommend you mix grades/colours etc to reduce the uniform look. When its dry, weather with powders, airbrush or weathering paints/pigments. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyrids Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 I was having an afternoon nap and the rod solution came to me... drop the motors further down... so after visiting 5 hardware stores to find suitable longer screws and cutting up strips of thin ply to 10x30mm rectangles to use as packing the end of the rod sits flush now with the top of the tie rod, it is very fiddly to do without the end of the rod keep popping out but it's solved the problem perfectly only another five more to go. Yes I seen that advertised simple but effective by the looks, again my problem is delivery assuming they do ship to where I am that same spreader will cost over 20 quid all assuming customs does not slap a random import fee on top of that which is highly likely... so tea spoon it is then haha... good tip on the mixing in with different colours though I didn't think of doing that at that stage. Gaugemaster got back to me as I was typing and they said the ballast tub they have is 1.5 kilo and would do a large portion of 6mts a conservative answer of course so I am thinking of buying two then just in case ? the rest could be used as cat litter maybe haha. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted August 28, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 28, 2018 Not sure the cat would appreciate it, but worth a try! Might be useful for dressing roads, platform tops etc (if not too coarse) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyrids Posted August 30, 2018 Author Share Posted August 30, 2018 Point motors all done now and working very nicely packing them out has actually reduced the noise significantly and aligned them better than I initially had them... two of my isolators are working intermittently but I found the offending connections one is on a rail the other a joint in the wiring easy enough to fix. What do you guys use to clean the track with ? the options I found are a rubber for 4 quid, fluid for 7, oxide block for 11, a thing that looks like a tile grout rake for 9 and some bizarre electronic gizmo for 42 quid ! Tempted to just order the cheap Chinese rubber the same sort of thing used to do the job with my 00 without problems. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted September 5, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 5, 2018 (edited) I have used the Peco track cleaning rubber for years and it works fine. I also have a block of graphite which is highly recommended and use on a regular basis. Have also got the Woodland Scenics track cleaning tool - very useful for hard to reach areas, under tunnels etc, and IPA/track cleaning fluid. I have recently invested in Lanarkshire Models track cleaning wagon kit and a wagon chassis I picked up at Warley which cleans the track as it runs around the layout. They all work in their own way, but for the most cost effective solution, go for the track rubber and some IPA alcohol/pack of j-cloths. Edited September 5, 2018 by ianLMS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyrids Posted October 12, 2018 Author Share Posted October 12, 2018 Yeah thanks I went with the last option for now...Progress very slow the ballast and other bits have only just arrived yesterday... I bought some Dapol easy shunt couplings and a couple of electro magnets but the couplings will move upwards but not downwards like they are supposed to do ? I know with some rolling stock you need to use some box adapter thing and it's quite obvious which rolling stock needs those as the couplings simply don't fit on those ones, anyone have any experience with these Dapol couplings and might know what the solution is ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyrids Posted October 12, 2018 Author Share Posted October 12, 2018 Hmm after close inspection and actually getting one to work there is no up and down its the little claw thing with the spring that go's left to right respectively... none the less there is only one that works correctly so far I noticed the little metal arm that hangs down is not in the same position or set at the same height and these are the ones straight out of the packaging ! so they saying in the instructions be careful not to move the "optimal" position of the arm is bs and if one of those tiny springs jumps out you have no chance of finding it again so there re 3 spare ones that come with a pack of 5 pairs of couplings, great... problem being they are almost impossible to try and fit back in... so this easi shunt system is far from easy to even get working, what I did notice was though if you activate the electromagnet when the train passes over it going 3x a realistic shunting speed without stopping it will uncouple no problem ! ... like something from an old wild west movie... Not happy to say the least granted I expected to have to mess on a bit to fit them and such like but spending 3 hours to just get one to work occasionally is taking the mickey...So I dunno what to do now as far as coupling / uncoupling go's... do I go back to using the standard GF ones and an unsightly uncoupling ramp or do it by hand ?The temptation is to throw the whole lot in the swamp out back and find a different hobby that is less frustrating such as picking away the side of a mountain with a needle maybe haha. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted October 12, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 12, 2018 So I dunno what to do now as far as coupling / uncoupling go's... do I go back to using the standard GF ones and an unsightly uncoupling ramp or do it by hand ? The temptation is to throw the whole lot in the swamp out back and find a different hobby that is less frustrating such as picking away the side of a mountain with a needle maybe haha. It appears the 2mm society use DG Couplings, but there is also a post on RMWeb which covers screw-link couplings for N guage. Its fiddly in 00 so must be a nightmare in N though!! Scalelink sell screw-links for N gauge. Would look really good. Not sure if it solves the coupling/uncoupling issue though........https://www.scalelink.co.uk/acatalog/Smiths_Components_for__N_.html A quick google came up with this post which might help you with your dilemma - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/68401-modifying-stock-to-take-Dapol-easy-shunt-magnetic-couplings/. I used to model N guage but was never happy with the couplings - didnt get chance to try out options though as I sold it all years ago and when I moved to somewhere bigger I went for 00 instead. Failing that, design your own using small magnets and make a fortune selling them to other N gauge users!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold D9020 Nimbus Posted October 12, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 12, 2018 Rix Products do a hand uncoupling tool for Microtrains couplers—you put it in from the top and twist. Since the Dapol couplers work in a similar way it may work with them. I've found hand uncoupling standard couplers with British prototype models can be tricky. No problems with Peco wagons and most Farish wagons and coaches. However the couplers on many recent Farish locos don't lift in the way they should. While standard couplers on Dapol models DO lift properly, they tend to lift the coupler on the adjacent model too. Similar comments apply to ramps. Remember they rely on just one of the couplers being lifted. They work fine with Minitrix and Peco, sometimes with Farish, almost never with Dapol standard couplers. There are no problems with using the standard couplers on Continental European models—they seem to be capable of implementing these couplers properly! I often think Bachmann don't believe in uncoupling, in either N or OO—the couplers on some OO models foul uncoupling ramps, and they don't have uncoupling devices in the catalogue in either scale... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyrids Posted October 12, 2018 Author Share Posted October 12, 2018 A quick google came up with this post which might help you with your dilemma - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/68401-modifying-stock-to-take-Dapol-easy-shunt-magnetic-couplings/. I used to model N guage but was never happy with the couplings - didnt get chance to try out options though as I sold it all years ago and when I moved to somewhere bigger I went for 00 instead. Failing that, design your own using small magnets and make a fortune selling them to other N gauge users!! That is interesting becasue what I am finding is the couplings with the bar that is higher seems to work as it should but if the bar is lower then it just pulls down rather than left / right (please note I am not talking about the actual heigh of the coupling itself just the metal bar that the magnet attracts). I already have an idea for my own N gauge coupling system !!!! "BLU TACK" no magnets required just cut off the existing coupler with a pair of wire cutters or chew the damn thing off whatever takes your fancy, attach a small blob of Blu Tack to either end of a matchstick cut down to 1/8th of it's length (for close coupling) mount one end to underside of your rolling stock (preferably slightly protruding the buffers) in order to couple your rolling stock reverse the loco at high speed into said rolling stock coupling is accomplished easily (with unweighed rolling stock placing your hand behind the wagons during this procedure may be required) uncoupling is also very simple this time simply run your loco at high speed in the forward direction eventually the rolling stock will uncouple this new technique will greatly increase the entertainment value and open up new challenges whist carrying out shunting manoeuvres ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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