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My version of the Magnetic Coupling & Hose Connections


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The R-T-R Tension Lock coupling system is simple, effective, robust and great for its intended purpose, however, aesthetically, I think it takes away from the highly detailed locomotives and rolling stock and in my opinion ruins what could be a very realistic scene.

 

I am not a fan of replacing one un-realistic system with another so have avoided Kadees, S&W, Dingham systems, however, I am not saying they are bad, just not for me. Plus, I wanted to try something different and potentially cheaper.  

 

Over the last year or so I have been looking at various options, trying to get a little closer to prototypical couplings and hose attachments. I created a topic where I modified/created permanent couplings for Airfix coaching stock which are in fixed rakes using brass rod which kind of replicated hoses (not very goodwell though). After running it I realised it wasn't at all practical when trying to service the rolling stock and having to lift 2/3 coaches at once, flip them upside down and uncouple them.

 

This prompted me to look at other solutions, such as screw-link couplings. Screw-link/3-Link couplings are great as they are prototypical, however, in practical terms they are very fiddly, almost impossible to use under coach corridor connections and do not work remotely requiring a pole and hook arrangement. I am not concerned about the "hand from above" issue, but even using a pole/hook was very fiddly and frustrating.

 

I then turned my attention to magnets. There is another topic on a different magnetic coupling system, but I didnt want to hijack their thread, so created this one.

 

A look online revealed some innovative ideas using magnets for both couplings and hoses. A magnetic coupling system is available for the 7mm modellers called Magclick (www.modelrailwaywagons.co.uk/) but its not been developed for 4mm or 2mm. The US have also developed a hose coupling system for vacuum fitted stock (https://www.pwrs.ca/announcements/view.php?ID=7440). 

 

I took both of these concepts and made my own versions for my 4mm layout.

 

The coupling system is basically 2mm x 2mm Neodymium magnets available from Ebay attached to a 3mm length of 1.5mm Dia brass tube using Loctite Epoxy "Metal" adhesive. At the other end of the brass tube, a 0.8mm hole is drilled to accept a .45mm brass rod loop. This loop attaches to another longer 0.45mm loop which is attached to the hook on the locomotive (through the hole) in similar fashion to current screw-link/3 link couplings. The hooks I have used are from Smiths, Slaters and Lanarkshire Models (WM). All are fine, just depends on your preference. Which type of hook also dictates the size of the loop you use as it needs to be large enough to clear the front of the hook as the coupling is pulled horizontally during operation. The hook on the brass type is to allow free movement and prevent twisting or locking. Size of loops/brass rod is flexible and dependable on who much space you need between vehicles in order to navigate your radius curves. I have a tight 18" radius curve so I need a relatively large gap to prevent buffer locking. 

 

The hoses use a 2mm (dia) x 0.5mm (thickness) magnet. There a various types of vacuum hoses on loco's and rolling stock so my intention has been to make them fairly universal:

 

Loco: Most loco vacuum hoses are of the high level vertical type. I use WM ones from Lanarkshire and prize out the hose a little from the body. I file the end of the hose flat and attach a magnet. The magnets need to observe correct polarity so I start with the loco. All loco's need to have the magnets attached the same way around to prevent magnets from repelling. On these magnets the polrity is on each flat side. Glue the first magnet and use that to determine the correct polarity for all other magnets. 

 

Coaches:

Corridor Coaching Stock has the hose coming out either under the buffer beam or from an attachment on it. I drill a 1mm-2mm hole in the buffer beam to one side of the hook and glue the end of a suitably sized steel nail which has been trimmed to about a 5mm length. I use CA for this. The hose will then protrude from below the coridoor connection when connected.

 

Non-Corridor Coaching Stock/Suburban type coaches: These tend to have the high level hoses similar to the loco, so I use the same arrangement with a magnet glued to the end of the prized out hose. Again, observing correct polarity of the magnet is essential. Once you have the first hose connected to the loco, the other end of the hose will have another magnet (opposite polarity of the side facing out from the loco). This now sets the polarity of all other vacuum hose mounted magnets.

 

Wagons: same principle as coaching stock if using "fitted" rolling stock - some are high level some arent. Un-fitted wagons just use the coupling and no hoses are used.

 

The Hose: The hose itself is 1mm black elastic cord (cheap from Ebay or any haberdashery) cut in approx 25-40mm lengths. Length will depend on how much gap you want between loco/rolling stock etc and how much slack you want in the hose. Trial and error especially if you have tight radius curves). On each end of the hose, a magnet is glued using CA again following the polarity. One end of the hose needs to attract to the magnet on the loco. The other end would then need to attract to the magnet on the coach fitting (or nail). 

 

Operation: attach one of the hoses to the hose on the loco. Bring the coach/wagon close. The hoses will attract before the couplings. Once connected, as you come a little closer, the couplings will attract to each other (providing correct polarity has been observed.

 

here is the pic of my Jinty connected to a corridor coach. There is more to follow as I begin to fit out my fleet. I am sure there will be minor changes along the way. One other thing I am looking at is using an electromagnet for remote uncoupling. However, for now, I simply hold one item in place, draw the loco away from the vehicle and the magnets part. No tools required.

 

 

 

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The R-T-R Tension Lock coupling system is simple, effective, robust and great for its intended purpose, however, aesthetically, I think it takes away from the highly detailed locomotives and rolling stock and in my opinion ruins what could be a very realistic scene.

 

I am not a fan of replacing one un-realistic system with another so have avoided Kadees, S&W, Dingham systems, however, I am not saying they are bad, just not for me. Plus, I wanted to try something different and potentially cheaper.  

 

Over the last year or so I have been looking at various options, trying to get a little closer to prototypical couplings and hose attachments. I created a topic where I modified/created permanent couplings for Airfix coaching stock which are in fixed rakes using brass rod which kind of replicated hoses (not very goodwell though). After running it I realised it wasn't at all practical when trying to service the rolling stock and having to lift 2/3 coaches at once, flip them upside down and uncouple them.

 

This prompted me to look at other solutions, such as screw-link couplings. Screw-link/3-Link couplings are great as they are prototypical, however, in practical terms they are very fiddly, almost impossible to use under coach corridor connections and do not work remotely requiring a pole and hook arrangement. I am not concerned about the "hand from above" issue, but even using a pole/hook was very fiddly and frustrating.

 

I then turned my attention to magnets. There is another topic on a different magnetic coupling system, but I didnt want to hijack their thread, so created this one.

 

A look online revealed some innovative ideas using magnets for both couplings and hoses. A magnetic coupling system is available for the 7mm modellers called Magclick (www.modelrailwaywagons.co.uk/) but its not been developed for 4mm or 2mm. The US have also developed a hose coupling system for vacuum fitted stock (https://www.pwrs.ca/announcements/view.php?ID=7440). 

 

I took both of these concepts and made my own versions for my 4mm layout.

 

The coupling system is basically 2mm x 2mm Neodymium magnets available from Ebay attached to a 3mm length of 1.5mm Dia brass tube using Loctite Epoxy "Metal" adhesive. At the other end of the brass tube, a 0.8mm hole is drilled to accept a .45mm brass rod loop. This loop attaches to another longer 0.45mm loop which is attached to the hook on the locomotive (through the hole) in similar fashion to current screw-link/3 link couplings. The hooks I have used are from Smiths, Slaters and Lanarkshire Models (WM). All are fine, just depends on your preference. Which type of hook also dictates the size of the loop you use as it needs to be large enough to clear the front of the hook as the coupling is pulled horizontally during operation. The hook on the brass type is to allow free movement and prevent twisting or locking. Size of loops/brass rod is flexible and dependable on who much space you need between vehicles in order to navigate your radius curves. I have a tight 18" radius curve so I need a relatively large gap to prevent buffer locking. 

 

The hoses use a 2mm (dia) x 0.5mm (thickness) magnet. There a various types of vacuum hoses on loco's and rolling stock so my intention has been to make them fairly universal:

 

Loco: Most loco vacuum hoses are of the high level vertical type. I use WM ones from Lanarkshire and prize out the hose a little from the body. I file the end of the hose flat and attach a magnet. The magnets need to observe correct polarity so I start with the loco. All loco's need to have the magnets attached the same way around to prevent magnets from repelling. On these magnets the polrity is on each flat side. Glue the first magnet and use that to determine the correct polarity for all other magnets. 

 

Coaches:

Corridor Coaching Stock has the hose coming out either under the buffer beam or from an attachment on it. I drill a 1mm-2mm hole in the buffer beam to one side of the hook and glue the end of a suitably sized steel nail which has been trimmed to about a 5mm length. I use CA for this. The hose will then protrude from below the coridoor connection when connected.

 

Non-Corridor Coaching Stock/Suburban type coaches: These tend to have the high level hoses similar to the loco, so I use the same arrangement with a magnet glued to the end of the prized out hose. Again, observing correct polarity of the magnet is essential. Once you have the first hose connected to the loco, the other end of the hose will have another magnet (opposite polarity of the side facing out from the loco). This now sets the polarity of all other vacuum hose mounted magnets.

 

Wagons: same principle as coaching stock if using "fitted" rolling stock - some are high level some arent. Un-fitted wagons just use the coupling and no hoses are used.

 

The Hose: The hose itself is 1mm black elastic cord (cheap from Ebay or any haberdashery) cut in approx 25-40mm lengths. Length will depend on how much gap you want between loco/rolling stock etc and how much slack you want in the hose. Trial and error especially if you have tight radius curves). On each end of the hose, a magnet is glued using CA again following the polarity. One end of the hose needs to attract to the magnet on the loco. The other end would then need to attract to the magnet on the coach fitting (or nail). 

 

Operation: attach one of the hoses to the hose on the loco. Bring the coach/wagon close. The hoses will attract before the couplings. Once connected, as you come a little closer, the couplings will attract to each other (providing correct polarity has been observed.

 

here is the pic of my Jinty connected to a corridor coach. There is more to follow as I begin to fit out my fleet. I am sure there will be minor changes along the way. One other thing I am looking at is using an electromagnet for remote uncoupling. However, for now, I simply hold one item in place, draw the loco away from the vehicle and the magnets part. No tools required.

Hi Ian

Interesting. It looks unobtrusive and I understand how it couples but I'm not sure about uncoupling by holding vehicles and there must be a balance between having sufficient force to keep a train together but not so much as to make uncoupling a struggle.

 

I know people who use the O gauge Magclick system but for assembling trains to run and be admired on running tracks. Uncoupling is a matter of pulling vehicles apart so though it's great for watching the trains go by layouts it's not really suitable for shunting though I think some modellers use it within rakes with more conventional couplers at either end.

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Interesting ideas. Just a thought, a simple handbrake of a wire in a tube that can be raised or lowered through the baseboard to catch the axle of the train might give remote uncoupling? Almost invisible with the tube level with the ballast.

 

This is one I made to act as a handbrake on an inclined siding years ago, uses an old H+M motor but there must be lots of neater ways of doing it these days. 

 

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Good afternoon and thank you for the comments.

Uncoupling remotely is still the elephant in the room and something I am working on and Dave John's suggestion of a mechanical system maybe the way to go, rather than an electromagnet.

 

When it comes to pushing stock, rather than pulling, the flexible elastic "hose" isnt rigid enough to push, so yes, it relies on the buffers, requiring larger curves. However, you can stiffen the elastic using superglue which will help create that buffer. The couplings can also be made slightly more rigid by fixing the first loop on the hook horizontally so the only movement is with the loop on the magnet. This creates a rigidity preventing the buffers from locking. However, a larger gap between the rolling stock may be required (still less than the tension lock one though)

 

For manual uncoupling: I can hold the rolling stock with one finger on the roof, and pull the loco forward slowly. With the 2mm x 2mm magnets, they are strong enough to hold together around the layout and over not-so level track, but if there is a small amount of resistance, such as a really tight bend, gradient etc or a finger holding the stock, the magnets part. You can simply pull the two items apart if you prefer without too much effort. The magnets are so cheap, its worth buying some and trying it out.  

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