70036, "Boadicea". Build begins page 2 post 48. Slowly.

[N15class]

Having read the critic in the Gazette. There seems to be nothing too serious. Do you know if yours is a first issue or a later one? The best thing to do is check a couple of the bits that are known to see if the parts or instructions have

Edited July 13, 2018 by N15class

[steve fay]

Sorry to hear of your family woes Jeff, hopefully this build will bring a little joy for you.

[JeffP]

I'm still awaiting wheels and the drawing.

I need to look carefully at the instructions again, but am unsure how I'll know if I have an early kit or the later one.

Only thing I do know is it was packed after 31/10/90.

I wish that article had had drawings or photos of the problems.

As for rolling a new boiler or smokebox, well, I have rolling bars if it comes to that.

[Nicktoix]

As someone who is 80% through building this kit I can only describe it as a "pig". One of the most difficult kits I have ever built and I've built alot. I haven't attempted to extend the boiler but have carved much from the front of the firebox to clear the wheels. Mine is powered by the ABC version of a RG7 which fits nicely.

The castings are excellent but the instructions leave alot to be desired, they do not compare with those in the MMP coach or wagon kits.

Tower Models give a good price for Slater's wheels or join the ALSRM and get a discount from Slaters

Good luck

 

Nick

[JeffP]

When did you start Nick?

Did you find the valances needed extending?

Did your boiler/smokebox not need extending?

 

Does anyone know why the Slaters wheels foul the firebox, but the AGH ones didn't?

[Nicktoix]

I am building a "running" model rather a showcase one. The boiler should be about 122mm long but I left it as is.

The springs supplied for the suspension are far too strong. I soldered the leading and trailing drivers solid and sprung the centre axle "ala Jazz".

I didn't like the way the firebox extends into cab at all. I suspect the back head is too large.Andy Beaton now advertises an etched cab front if I built another I would cut the back of the firebox off and use the etched front.

Not much room for pickups.

There are some very good pics of the rebuilding of the Brit on the web. If I can find the link I'll post it.

By the standards of the early 90s this is a good kit. By today's standards it isn't.

I'll try to post some pics when I can.

Nick

[djparkins]

By the standards of the early 90s this is a good kit. By today's standards it isn't.

 

 

Well that is exactly what I said above - and that is the way it should be approached. I did say it wouldn't hold up against a DJH Britannia kit in my earlier post. You buy something at the time. The trouble is that kits don't seem to get built at the time though. They seem to sit around in boxes for years, get sold on, and then treated as if they are a new state of the art release.

[JeffP]

As far as I'm concerned it was state of the art. I'm sure it will EVENTUALLY build into something as good as a DJH...I had one of theirs and sold it on as I wasn't keen.

 

We'll see anyway.

 

Next week ought to see the wheels arrive which means I can probably make a start on the tender, but the drawing list from the NRM stated 4 weeks delivery. again, I have to wait and see.

 

Not sure how much time I'll be able to alocate to modelling yet, since now all the cooking, cleaning, shopping, washing etc falls to me, plus I have an hour trip in each direction to Pinderfields when I go. At the mo we are working out how often I need to go/she wants me there. I did work out that with parking charges (!!!!), yesterday's first visit cost me £15.50. Slater's bogie wheels...

 

Once I get started, there's every chance that some of my posts will have photos of castings, asking what they are....please bear with me.

Edited July 15, 2018 by JeffP

[doilum]

As far as I'm concerned it was state of the art. I'm sure it will EVENTUALLY build into something as good as a DJH...I had one of theirs and sold it on as I wasn't keen.

 

We'll see anyway.

 

 

 

 

Next week ought to see the wheels arrive which means I can probably make a start on the tender, but the drawing list from the NRM stated 4 weeks delivery. again, I have to wait and see.

 

Not sure how much time I'll be able to alocate to modelling yet, since now all the cooking, cleaning, shopping, washing etc falls to me, plus I have an hour trip in each direction to Pinderfields when I go. At the mo we are working out how often I need to go/she wants me there. I did work out that with parking charges (!!!!), yesterday's first visit cost me £15.50. Slater's bogie wheels...

 

Once I get started, there's every chance that some of my posts will have photos of castings, asking what they are....please bear with me.

 

Not entirely sure but you may be able to purchase a permit for pinderfields if this isgoing to be a long haul.

My other advice, hoping it doesn't sound callous, is to keep an eye on the time. There is a threshold, I think it is two hours, when it suddenly gets ridiculously expensive.

[JeffP]

Yes, once I'm registered, (Tuesday, next visit), it gets cheaper. I think it costs me one day max for a week's parking.

Thanks for that.

 

Nick: the GOG article mentioned that the rods were not the same centres as the driving wheels? Did you not find this?

[Nicktoix]

Yes, once I'm registered, (Tuesday, next visit), it gets cheaper. I think it costs me one day max for a week's parking.

Thanks for that.

 

Nick: the GOG article mentioned that the rods were not the same centres as the driving wheels? Did you not find this?

I got some rods from Premier which are excellent

Nick

[glo41f]

Jeff

 

I have taken some pictures of the mods required to stop the wheels fouling the firebox. Firstly I apologise as writing from memory I thought the difference was 7mm but it is 5mm which is slightly better!  I glues 60 thou plasticard onto the frontof the resin firebox to make up the difference. (I do not have a wizzy phone so had to fing the camera. Must be toi only person in the world without one!)

 

 

The gap was filled with Isopon and rubbed down. It could do with more tidying up.  Anyway you will get the drift. 

 

As to drawing there was a 7mm one in the Model Railways Magazine a few years back under the article "Portrait of the Britannias . Well worth looking out for..

 

Regards

 

Martin

[JeffP]

Only the thumbnail at the bottom showing, sorry.

[JeffP]

The wheels for 70036 have arrived:

 

 

Sadly, no screw couplings. DJH say they will post out a set.

 

Still awaiting plates, drawing and a sheet of 15 thou brass in case I need to roll a new boiler....found it cheap on ebay.

 

Who knows, the tender may be in the erecting shop tomorrow...much will depend on my state of mind and whether the wife has even more needs I have to go out and buy before going over at 1pm.

 

What does anyone think to the idea of pickups on the tender too? Maybe not Slaters, maybe phosphor bronze wire etc? I need to see if there will be space first. And if I have any pcb to attach them.

Edited July 16, 2018 by JeffP

[glo41f]

Jeff

 

Pick up on tender no problem . Plenty of space. I would short out one set of the tender wheels which is east to do and eliminates the necessity for pick ups.

 

Martin

[JeffP]

Won't that make the entire tender live?

Would like to avoid that if poss.

I think there will be enough probs without needing an insulating drawbar and trying to stop it touching the loco.

Won't that make the entire tender live?

Would like to avoid that if poss.

I think there will be enough probs without needing an insulating drawbar and trying to stop it touching the loco.

[doilum]

Most of my tender locos used the American system. The tender chassis was isolated from the superstructure by a strip of 10thou plastikard. The mounting bolts were bushed in plastic cut from old ink cartridges (fountain pen).

The draw bar was mounted on the body. One day I will get round to isolating the locomotives too making them totally safe for dcc conversion.

[Coal Tank]

I'm looking forward to this I've always liked the Brits

[RedgateModels]

On 16/07/2018 at 16:25, JeffP said:

What does anyone think to the idea of pickups on the tender too? Maybe not Slaters, maybe phosphor bronze wire etc? I need to see if there will be space first. And if I have any pcb to attach them.

 

OO I know, but this is what I did on 91000

 

 

double sided copperclad strips to make a left and right rail bus bar, coiled phosphor bronze pickups so they don't act as brakes but will stay in contact with wheel backs. The advantage of the double sided is that the bus bars were soldered in place underneath 😉

Edited September 14, 2022 by RedgateModels

[JeffP]

Thanks for that.

 

Plates arrived today. Real 7mm bling:

 

 

 

Sadly, no work started yet, just too much to do round this house, and shopping plus visiting. I need to be more organised. plus my work space is in a loft...albeit with velux windows, still going to be warm!

 

The other sad news was a letter from Chris Watford, the proprietor of Severn Mill Plates. His etchers are no longer willing/able to work to the standards he requires, so he is reluctantly closing the range down. Buy now or miss out.

 

Just looking at the second photo, everything is legible! Truly a work of art for the £33 they cost.

 

Going to have to sit down and work out what plates I need/want, and get them ordered. Then go out and sell a kidney to pay for them.

Edited July 18, 2018 by JeffP

[Horsetan]

….. my work space is in a loft...albeit with velux windows, still going to be warm!....

 

Yes, I remember you told us this during the Alcazar saga, but at that time your loft was too cold.   

Edited July 18, 2018 by Horsetan

[JeffP]

Life is sh!t and then you die.....story of my life.

[JeffP]

OK, so the build begins. Slowly. VERY slowly.

 

seriously, I spent an hour clearing the loft and cleaning round, then cleared my modelling table, (an old school TD table, only 3' x 2', hardly ideal. I then found my box of drills all in a muddle, so spent half an hour with a micrometer putting them in order.

 

FINALLY, I made a start. A very small start.

 

First picture shows my GW Models rivet press, mounted on a piece of mdf for stability. It's invaluable when you want to press out rivets in a straight line and at a constant pitch and size.

 

Second pic shows the embroidery scissors I use for cutting tabs off etches. they were recommended by none other than david Parkins himself, and leave VERY little filing to be done. The main tabs were cut using an old newly sharpened 1/4" chisel onto a piece of mdf.

In the pic are the main tender body, the rear, with most rivets punched out, and the front. Only two rivets on the front.

 

Then I ran out of time.

 

My wife would have been flying out to the house in France today, so no way was I leaving her alone at Pinderfields. As it was, she was a bit glum, but once we went out of the hospital for a walk, with me pushing her wheelchair...and it's NOT flat that area, we both had a good laugh...

 

Back home now, but two glasses of wine already as I'M feeling a bit glum....so no modelling this evening. I want to model a Britannia, not Anarbitni.

 

Anyway, hopefully more tomorrow. I'll finish the rivet pressing and then look at forming the tender body to match the front and rear. Any ideas gratefully received.

 

 

[N15class]

Nice to see a start. Firstly with the bends it is down to checking positions.not the easiest thing to when there's a great wide half etch where the fold should be. Select a rod just under radius required. But be very careful the metal always wants to bend at the full, half etch junction. What you need to do is find the start of the curve and clamp the rod at this position, I then use a steel rule or similar to pull the metal around the bar. I find the half etching a real pain. I have filled with solder before now and smoothed off to full metal thickness. It does save horrible crease lined where not wanted. At least with yours they've not left the ends full thickness.;

[Nicktoix]

There is a great collection of pics of Brit in various stages of restoration at http://fraserker.com/britannia/

 

Nick