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How to get to a mid speed point, quicker?


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So I'm having a bash at fiddling about with some CV values.

 

Th3 default values on the Hornby HST are pretty nice with stopping and starting. But on the other side, I have a Stepney loco that just starts and stops abruptly!

 

I'm not entirely focused on getting very accurate running from individual loco types but something a little nicer than what I have now.

 

I've got some fairly nice values in so far:

 

CV2=1

CV4=8

CV5=180

CV6=80

 

However, using the above, it seems to take a long time to get to speed. I use 28 speed steps, but by the time I reach 14sp, the loco is going less than half of the maximum speed.

 

Is it just a case of adjusting CV6 to a higher level to make the mid point come in at a lower speed step?

 

I've lost my marbles from trying different values so not too sure where to go from here.

 

Also, if I set the max speed to 255,I'm not going to burn the motor out am I?

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do you have the ability to write the CVs using a computer rather than just writing individual CVs using you controller?

 

If you do I recommend downloading DecoderPro from JMRI and using it to write a custom speed curve where you simply pull up (or down) the sliders and tell it to create the curve in between the end points.

 

If you don't then I fear you are going to be left playing with CV6 as you suggest to get a speed that you like :(

Edited by WIMorrison
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You haven't mentioned the value in CV3 which is the rate of acceleration.  If there is a high value in that, then it will take longer to reach whatever speed is set for each speed step.  If you are happy with the rate of deceleration in CV4, then I suggest starting with the same value in CV3 - then readjust as suits you.  I cant see a value of 255 in CV5 causing a problem, unless the train runs too quickly for your track's curves!

 

There is also the question of what value is in CV29.  Bit 4 determines whether CVs 2,5 and 6 are used, or the chosen speeds for each speed step via CVs 67 to 94.  You need to check the user manual for the decoder in question to see what value is correct

 

Harold..

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...However, using the above, it seems to take a long time to get to speed. I use 28 speed steps, but by the time I reach 14sp, the loco is going less than half of the maximum speed.

 

Is it just a case of adjusting CV6 to a higher level to make the mid point come in at a lower speed step?

 

I've lost my marbles from trying different values so not too sure where to go from here...

 

 Try a much larger value in CV6 like 120, so that you can easily see the change to the mid speed point, and then make adjustments from there to suit what you want.

 

If you write '1' in CV3 before doing this setting up you won't waste time waiting for the loco to speed up. Then once satisfied with setting of the mid speed point,as Harold suggests  write in the same value as in CV4 as you are not complaning about the slow down rate.

 

(I might suggest using much larger values in CV's 3 and 4 as these far better replicate the high inertia of rail vehicles. I rarely go much below 50 in either, and heavy freight locos on unbraked mineral drags have values in the hundreds. Got to drive very carefully and keep the speed low, unless you have miles of track to stop in...

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Or

 

 Try a much larger value in CV6 like 120, so that you can easily see the change to the mid speed point, and then make adjustments from there to suit what you want.

 

If you write '1' in CV3 before doing this setting up you won't waste time waiting for the loco to speed up. Then once satisfied with setting of the mid speed point,as Harold suggests  write in the same value as in CV4 as you are not complaning about the slow down rate.

 

(I might suggest using much larger values in CV's 3 and 4 as these far better replicate the high inertia of rail vehicles. I rarely go much below 50 in either, and heavy freight locos on unbraked mineral drags have values in the hundreds. Got to drive very carefully and keep the speed low, unless you have miles of track to stop in...

 

Or a decoder with a brake key feature. All ZIMO decoders have this possibility.

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Thanks all.

I'll take a look at these and play around.

No PC yet but I have a monitor, keyboard and mouse, so just need a sprog now.

 

Whilst the Sprog family is a good product range, you have not yet provided enough evidence that you will gain benefit of one, and certainly no point in purchasing until you have a PC to connect it to.

 

Whether or not you will need a Sprog depends on your DCC controller. Some will connect to a PC directly some will need the manufacturer's connection 'kit' and some have no way to connect at all.

 

You first need to establish which category you DCC controller is in before deciding whetrher you need to purchase additional equipment.

 

If you don't know which category, post your controller brand and model and you'll get advice from other owners.

 

Best regards,

 

Paul

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Whilst the Sprog family is a good product range, you have not yet provided enough evidence that you will gain benefit of one, and certainly no point in purchasing until you have a PC to connect it to.

 

Whether or not you will need a Sprog depends on your DCC controller. Some will connect to a PC directly some will need the manufacturer's connection 'kit' and some have no way to connect at all.

 

You first need to establish which category you DCC controller is in before deciding whetrher you need to purchase additional equipment.

 

If you don't know which category, post your controller brand and model and you'll get advice from other owners.

 

Best regards,

 

Paul

I have always had a connectable/connected system and I can use my DCC system with Decoderpro (and have on occasions) but the Sprog is really useful as a stand alone piece of kit.

e.g. I can program/test a loco whilst the rest of the layout carries on as normal.

 

Keith

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