Jump to content
 

Dowlais Ironworks Class D 0-4-0T cut 'n' shut


Recommended Posts

Cheers, Paul.

 

The handrail knobs arrived, yesterday, and here they are fitted to the loco. I have painted the boiler bands black in readiness to recieve the yellow lining.

post-494-0-23108400-1534437166.jpg

 

The cab rear windows are now glazed. For this I cut up an Oxford die cast car box and kept cutting and filing until I had a pair of tightly-fitting windows. To ensure they stay in place I dolloped some Glue n Glaze on the inside. Window frames painted.

post-494-0-44071200-1534437327.jpg

 

As far as the build itself is concerned all that remains is to fit couplers and to re-make the safety valve cover. This had to be cut off before making the cuts in the bodyshell but I wasn't able to save enough to allow it to be simply glued back in place. I saved the top to use as a pattern and will make the rest from plastic and filler. It also needs a whistle.

 

Going back to the other bodyshell, I may still do an 0-6-0 but Sandyford looks a better bet than Pant. Sandyford appears to have the same cab and bunker as KGV and QM and the rest is more or less the same but longer. The bodyshell may not need cutting at all and as the sandboxes are the same I may only need to make new frame plates and rods. The spacer patterns for KGV can be used again.

post-494-0-23108400-1534437166.jpg

post-494-0-44071200-1534437327.jpg

Edited by Ruston
  • Like 13
Link to post
Share on other sites

The model looks very nice. After reading the thread with photos of the prototype I thought it would be a good conversion to do - prior to this I assumed the Hornby loco was a freelance 'mainline' design. I hadn't seen the 0-6-0 versions before but they look very interesting as well. It does seem an odd choice of prototype for a Hornby starter loco though.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The locomotive works list in Owen's book (and used by Alan George on his website?) shows No44 PANT as an 0-4-0, built in 1915.

But the only photos of PANT I can find (one said to be taken in 1939) show an 0-6-0.

 

Perhaps an error in the original list in Owen's book?

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I've often idly wondered if a decent model could be made of the Hornby D class, and it's great to see that yes, it can. I've always found the D-class strangely appealing - it doesn't quite look like anything else.

 

Shelton Steel Works in Stoke-on-Trent built several of their own locomotives based on earlier Andrew Barclay machines. Presumably they thought 'we can do that' so did. However they must have decided that it was simpler/cheaper to buy off the shelf products from the usual industrial locomotive builders as they returned to buying new locos.

 

Beckton Gasworks also built a couple of locos in-house based on Barclay machines, but received a sharp legal rebuke that prompted them to go back to buying in in future.

 

The model looks very nice. After reading the thread with photos of the prototype I thought it would be a good conversion to do - prior to this I assumed the Hornby loco was a freelance 'mainline' design. I hadn't seen the 0-6-0 versions before but they look very interesting as well. It does seem an odd choice of prototype for a Hornby starter loco though.

 

I would guess it's because it has inside motion (thus saving the cost of a couple of bits of metal), has a fairly basic outline (so not much chance of breakage) and has a chunky shape (so a motor can easily fit in).

Link to post
Share on other sites

Beckton Gasworks also built a couple of locos in-house based on Barclay machines, but received a sharp legal rebuke that prompted them to go back to buying in in future.

 

I understand at the time they claimed this blatant ripping off was 'training' for their apprentices. Dowlais seem to have gone too far the other way and deliberately designed locos that don't look like anyone else's - thinking especially of the cab shape on these ones.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

This project is another step nearer to completion.

 

post-494-0-44905500-1541613894.jpg

I applied the running number to the bufferbeams a month or two ago, using HMRS transfers for LSWR locomotives. I have now had a go at adding more of the lining. I had already painted the moulded boiler bands in black and have now added some Fox Transfers plain yellow lining to each side of the bands. That's as far as I can go with it now. The tank and bunker lining should be a thick black line with two thin yelllow lines and this isn't something that I can do. So it's either leave it as is, or pay a lining expert to paint it. Unless someone produces a suitable lining transfer?

 

As you can see in the photo above, the works plates have been fitted. The set that I had made by Narrow Planet consists of two name plates, two number plates and three works plates (the third being on the bunker rear).

post-494-0-49890500-1541614242.jpg

 

 

I need to do something about brass surrounds for the cab front windows.

Edited by Ruston
  • Like 13
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I started to put some lining transfers on one of the tank sides but I got about 3/4 of the inner yellow line done before I came to the conclusion that it's pants. The lines that I put on the boiler are pants too. They're just too thick.

 

I can either pay somone to paint the lines, or, having seen Adam's Peckett finished, can use N gauge lining. Either way the existing lining needs to come off.

 

How do I get it off without ruining the paintjob and having to repaint the whole lot? I used that Humbrol stuff - whatever it's called - to put the transfers on and to soften them to help them settle.

 

Any ideas, anyone?

  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I started to put some lining transfers on one of the tank sides but I got about 3/4 of the inner yellow line done before I came to the conclusion that it's pants. The lines that I put on the boiler are pants too. They're just too thick.

 

I can either pay somone to paint the lines, or, having seen Adam's Peckett finished, can use N gauge lining. Either way the existing lining needs to come off.

 

How do I get it off without ruining the paintjob and having to repaint the whole lot? I used that Humbrol stuff - whatever it's called - to put the transfers on and to soften them to help them settle.

 

Any ideas, anyone?

Most companies sell 2 grades of the decal solutions - the stronger is called Decal softener and softens them significantly so they lie down over rivets etc. I've used it on some of my American stuff and it really does soften them a lot so I reckon it would do the job.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Most companies sell 2 grades of the decal solutions - the stronger is called Decal softener and softens them significantly so they lie down over rivets etc. I've used it on some of my American stuff and it really does soften them a lot so I reckon it would do the job.

You mean putting the stuff on transfers will soften them again so that they will come off?

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

So the real thing was green rather than red?

 

I have a part complete conversion along the same lines to model Queen Mary from my childhood trainset, with a second body earmarked for conversion to the 060 design

 

Absolutely no use to my layout, but an interesting build I dip into from time to time,

 

Nice to see a near finished conversion

Link to post
Share on other sites

So the real thing was green rather than red?

 

I have a part complete conversion along the same lines to model Queen Mary from my childhood trainset, with a second body earmarked for conversion to the 060 design

 

Absolutely no use to my layout, but an interesting build I dip into from time to time,

 

Nice to see a near finished conversion

I read somewhere, either on a website, or in an article in Railway Bylines that they were painted green. I'm sure it's mentioned either in this thread, or in the more general one about Dowlais locos.

 

I've given the transfers a good soaking with the setting solution and they have all come off, leaving no damage to the paint surface.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I read somewhere, either on a website, or in an article in Railway Bylines that they were painted green. I'm sure it's mentioned either in this thread, or in the more general one about Dowlais locos.

 

I've given the transfers a good soaking with the setting solution and they have all come off, leaving no damage to the paint surface.

Told you so.................................. :boast:

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ahhh, I had not realised they were different designs.. So Sandyford was built as an 0-6-0T but Pant was an 0-4-0T that was converted?

 

attachicon.gifScreen Shot 2018-08-18 at 10.56.41.png

attachicon.gifScreen Shot 2018-08-18 at 10.57.03.png

attachicon.gifScreen Shot 2018-08-18 at 10.56.31.png

 

 

I don't think so.

 

 

According th the "Dowlais Giants" article in Railway Bylines Annual No.2 No.44 Pant was built in 1914 as an 0-4-0 and rebuilt as an 0-6-0 in 1927.

post-494-0-32125100-1542998481.jpgpost-494-0-76983300-1542998852.jpg

No.44 as an 0-4-0T

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

Hi ruston, love the work you've done here and i'd like to replicate to to some extent, may i ask how mush you cut from the original body? also thinking about putting it on a 3D printed chassis for an easy repeat. thanks,
Becca

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 21/07/2019 at 21:52, Shed82CB said:

Hi ruston, love the work you've done here and i'd like to replicate to to some extent, may i ask how mush you cut from the original body? also thinking about putting it on a 3D printed chassis for an easy repeat. thanks,
Becca

I can't remember exactly. The Hornby body is 2ft. 8in. overlength in scale and I took about 2ft. 2in. out of it How much is a 3D-printed chassis likely to cost?

 

By the way, I still haven't got it finished. I took it to a chap who was going to line it for me but it was returned unlined after he decided it was too difficult. The only way it's ever going to be finished now is if I take it to Warren Haywood but there's a long waiting time and he'd want over £100 to do it. His workmanship is superb but I can't justify spending that much money on something that only sits on a shelf because it doesn't fit with any layout that I have or am likely to have.

 

KGV1.jpg.170932cb80c135ff8c90e16c0fb0f061.jpg.8eeee712e47185fc1b7196292b85abb5.jpg

 

 

KGV2.jpg.b1ceed23a5ffcb93e5796bd67d808858.jpg

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, Ruston said:

I can't remember exactly. The Hornby body is 2ft. 8in. overlength in scale and I took about 2ft. 2in. out of it How much is a 3D-printed chassis likely to cost?

 

By the way, I still haven't got it finished. I took it to a chap who was going to line it for me but it was returned unlined after he decided it was too difficult. The only way it's ever going to be finished now is if I take it to Warren Haywood but there's a long waiting time and he'd want over £100 to do it. His workmanship is superb but I can't justify spending that much money on something that only sits on a shelf because it doesn't fit with any layout that I have or am likely to have.

 

KGV1.jpg.170932cb80c135ff8c90e16c0fb0f061.jpg.8eeee712e47185fc1b7196292b85abb5.jpg

 

 

KGV2.jpg.b1ceed23a5ffcb93e5796bd67d808858.jpg

 

1. It looks rather good as it is. Lining is a bit over the top on most industrials anyway  (it was probably done as a training exercise for the works apprentices)

 

2. Build something to run it on. Something that size could look sensible on a pair of boxfiles joined together , with half a dozen wagon

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...