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Grundy Street


georgeT
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Morning Deano, l must admit to being very surprised when Jintyman informed me as well, but it really does works well in all the tests paints l have done, plus the finish dries hard enough to take the masking tape without lifting the paint....

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Morning Deano, l must admit to being very surprised when Jintyman informed me as well, but it really does works well in all the tests paints l have done, plus the finish dries hard enough to take the masking tape without lifting the paint....

 

 

I did forget to mention, a little safety warning. 

You do need a mask for painting, and good ventilation, as it is quite potent stuff!!!

 

Jinty ;)

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Playing around with ideas for Pit St, now l have the plans for a long double slip, nothing is settled yet., but l am thinking of a double track ex-mainline which is not used anymore just gives access to the old warehouse sidings, as l say just mucking about at the moment...

post-7716-0-07664500-1537540715_thumb.jpg

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Best to work out a plan with ACTUAL WAGONS and a Loco to ensure you have enough room to both shunt and leave Wagons without them blocking access etc.

 

Also the more different Sidings you have the more interesting it will be.

 

On Seven Mill, I have a Warehouse, as I had on Deesdale Road, plus an Engineers Yard, Oil Depot and 2 x spare Sidings for holding Stock again as I had at the front of Deesdale Road.

post-9335-0-49334100-1537559338_thumb.jpg

 

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Edited by Andrew P
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Morning Andy, Point taken all the little sidings are great for the period you are modelling but all the small yards have gone now replaced with much larger ones sidings now hold much bigger trains, and bigger wagons IMHO l think modern layouts look odd with small sidings that only hold two or three wagons..

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Best to work out a plan with ACTUAL WAGONS and a Loco to ensure you have enough room to both shunt and leave Wagons without them blocking access etc.

 

Also the more different Sidings you have the more interesting it will be.

 

On Seven Mill, I have a Warehouse, as I had on Deesdale Road, plus an Engineers Yard, Oil Depot and 2 x spare Sidings for holding Stock again as I had at the front of Deesdale Road.

attachicon.gifDSCF1018.jpg

 

attachicon.gifDSCF1032.jpg

Amen to that. Templot is a great tool but you cant beat a roll of lining paper. Draw fullsize and make sure your trains fit.

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Looks good mate,  should be nice when finished.

 

Thanks Andy, Feel better now l have some direction on PS, decided to move the whole layout into the middle of the board so l can have buildings in the front as well as the back, l think it looks much better...

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As l said earlier l have cut up some 2mm ply to make the sleepers thicker, then started to make the V's up forming them on my grinding wheel, then started to lay the sleepers out, all is going well so far ?...

 

Hi George,

Why don't you make the turnout then stick a sheet of 2mm ply underneath the whole turnout after, save yourself some time and a whole lot of ballast?

Edited by tender
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Hi George,

Why don't you make the turnout then stick a sheet of 2mm ply underneath the whole turnout after, save yourself some time and a whole lot of ballast?

 

Good point Ray did not think of that, as you say would be less ballast, well done that man....

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Good Morning George. I was on holiday when this thread started so have had to catch up on progress.

 

All is looking good. I hope you manage to come up with a track plan that can repay all the effort you're putting in.

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Hi George,

Why don't you make the turnout then stick a sheet of 2mm ply underneath the whole turnout after, save yourself some time and a whole lot of ballast?

 

I tried that using C&L chairs on home cut 1mm ply sleepers, but the ballasting is nowhere near as nice.  And, I found it more challenging to do, as there is so little height between the bottom of the "gap between the sleepers" and the top of the sleepers, so the ballast wont stay in the hole whilst you get ready to put the glue on.

 

So my advice would be "don't".

 

What I did do with my previous layout was use balsa for the packing. This can be sliced off a 2mm sheet using a home made plank cutter (two bits of wood glued together to make an "L" a couple of inches long, and a scalpel blade held on with a couple of small screws - make the depth of the "L" to suit the width of plank you need).  Might be quicker and cheaper than using ply.  indeed, some mount boards, and cork tiles are about 2mm thick.  Same principle would apply.

 

best

Simon

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Hello Buddy, Slight change l am keeping the station but going for a yard rather than a through line, just didn't look right to me, plus as you said coupling difficulties ?

 

Pity, I thought Marks idea of the through line on the curve was both inventive and interesting. It would certainly have made for some nice scenic.

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George,

 

Just looking at your vee a few posts back. It looks like you’ve filed the inside of both rails the same to make them mitre, but doing that does give a potential problem, that the very nose of the crossing will be unsupported, even if you do file it back to a (prototypically correct) blunt nose.

 

The method I found on here (sorry, no idea where the link is) I suspect is also on the Templot site - put a bend in the end of one rail, away from the other rail, ie into what will become the flangeways and then file it off, smooth, with the running face. It doesn’t need to be a big angle, maybe 10 degrees, and the exact value doesn’t matter. This gives you a bit of web that actually reaches the very nose. File the other side to remove the curved part of the bend. You now have a pointed rail with a supported nose. Then file the other rail so it splices with the one you’ve done, and then tidy up the running face on the splice side. This makes your vee assymetric, but does prevent the nose being unsupported.

 

There are some photos back around page 10 in my PD thread, I can have a look and find the link if you’d like

 

Hope it helps- also hope I’m not teaching granny, etc!

Simon

Edited by Simond
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