Track Wiring - Advice Required

[ISW]

I am about to commence tracklaying on my layout, Burton-on-Trent South. The layout will be DCC powered, with electrofrog turnouts servo operated (most probably using MegaPoints Controllers). The baseboards are bolted together to allow easy removal of individual baseboards for wiring the underside.

 

However, before I start I thought it prudent to build a small 'practice layout' to hone my (err, non-existent?) skills. I have a pair of turnouts (secondhand) and some Peco Code 100 track I bought in ~1981 available to use.

 

I've built the baseboards for a short length of double-track with a crossover onto 2 small baseboards joined near the centre (join design replicates my layout plan). The crossover will be wholly on one of the boards.

 

I want to have all the wiring using plugs / sockets. It's not that I'm against soldering, but it's much easier to troubleshoot and amend the wiring when it's all socketed. It also looks a lot 'neater', although I realise that's subjective!

 

A plan of the practice layout, with all the planned wiring, is shown below. Yes, I know the wiring is 'overkill', but I want to replicate the 'principles' that I'll needs on my completed (larger) boards with more tracks / turnouts.

 

 

Details of the small veroboards are as follows:

 

Track Feed Veroboard:

 

Turnout Feed Veroboard:

 

From a power perspective, my understanding is that veroboard tracks can take 1 to 2 amps, and the 'molex' type PCB connectors are good for 3 amps. Since each track is individually powered, I think 7/0.2 stranded cable will be okay as track / turnout feeds.

 

Have I got my principles and cable sizes correct? Will this work or is there something I've got fundamentally wrong? 

 

[Phil S]

To avoid future confusion - avoid labels such as +ve and -ve for ac (dcc) signals  -  A and B or North and South  or Inner and Outer or whatever feels most appropriate - even Red and Black if those are the colours you intend using - but avoid using +/- where they are inappropriate !

If you are not going to use Nylon screws to mount the Veroboard - I would move the holes away another row so that no bolt/screw head will get near the bus conductors.  You might consider using 2 pins for each of these important signals for greater reliability.

I've used banks of Molex connectors for similar connections - try not to cramp them together - each one will overlap the neighbouring holes - and when you add the wires coming away, access to a Molex Plug - to unlock it and extract it can get quite awkward.

The Molex shells, and connectors are all sold separately  ( they are also available in different spacings - a larger one might be more convenient in this application? )

As an alternative I have also used pre-wired 9-pin D type leads - sold for 'serial' connections - as my plug and socket system - giving 9 colours and a bare wire for connections -  using a suitably short length that is easy to connect and release - the remainder of the wire is then available as a source of 9 different coloured wires. (eg buy 5m 9-pin ready-made Male-Female lead and use 20-30cm  of each end to link your verobard 'tagstrip' connections

[ISW]

To avoid future confusion - avoid labels such as +ve and -ve for ac (dcc) signals  -  A and B or North and South  or Inner and Outer or whatever feels most appropriate - even Red and Black if those are the colours you intend using - but avoid using +/- where they are inappropriate !

If you are not going to use Nylon screws to mount the Veroboard - I would move the holes away another row so that no bolt/screw head will get near the bus conductors.  You might consider using 2 pins for each of these important signals for greater reliability.

I've used banks of Molex connectors for similar connections - try not to cramp them together - each one will overlap the neighbouring holes - and when you add the wires coming away, access to a Molex Plug - to unlock it and extract it can get quite awkward.

The Molex shells, and connectors are all sold separately  ( they are also available in different spacings - a larger one might be more convenient in this application? )

As an alternative I have also used pre-wired 9-pin D type leads - sold for 'serial' connections - as my plug and socket system - giving 9 colours and a bare wire for connections -  using a suitably short length that is easy to connect and release - the remainder of the wire is then available as a source of 9 different coloured wires. (eg buy 5m 9-pin ready-made Male-Female lead and use 20-30cm  of each end to link your verobard 'tagstrip' connections

Phil,

 

Thanks for the reply. At least it seems I'm roughly on the right track.

 

To your points:

• I'll avoid the +/- references as the DCC track is AC. Black / red is okay with me.
• The veroboards will be mounted to the underside of the baseboards, so no electrical shorts should be possible. I'll make sure the screws have small heads to avoid shorting the veroboard tracks though.
• I said 'molex' type because I can't find the actual name. The ones I have are not 'keyed' and go in either way (so important to get red / black the right way round!). A photo is included below. From what I understand you 'can' put these right next to each other (like on the motherboard of PCs).
• I did consider 'D' connectors, but simple 'barrel' type seem easier for just the bus wires. However, I may need them for the servo cables if the turnout is not on the same boards at the MegaPoints Controller board

[Phil S]

Actually those shells in the photo look very like 'SERVO' connectors - for which also,in red,white,black, ready-made leads are readily available cheaply on ebay in a whole range of lengths  

[ISW]

Actually those shells in the photo look very like 'SERVO' connectors - for which also,in red,white,black, ready-made leads are readily available cheaply on ebay in a whole range of lengths  

Phil,

 

If that's their name, then that's what I got. Yes, I could get them made up with terminals and cables, but I'm a bit of a sucker for punishment ... I've got the terminals and cables to make up my own, so I can get them to the right length. Or so the theory goes ...

 

I've seen them called PCB connectors, crimp connectors, and now servo connectors. I wish there was a single name for them, as searching online is a bit of a nightmare.

[Crosland]

I've seen them called PCB connectors, crimp connectors, and now servo connectors. I wish there was a single name for them, as searching online is a bit of a nightmare.

They are only servo connectors if they are three way

 

Your photo looks like just the shells, in which case they are what you make them into The crimp terminals fit into the shells.

 

The other terms "PCB connectors", "crimp connectors", etc., are just generic descriptions. Each manufacturer will have their own tradename for them.

 

I would not use then for bus wiring on anything but the smallest layout, due to the restricted wire size that can be used with the crimp terminals. They are fine for droppers so long as they are secure when plugged onto the pins.

[Phil S]

I only drew attention to them as  'servo connectors' as I thought, since you had mentioned using Servos for point control,there was a possiblility or risk of your servos coming with the same ( ie physically compatible connectors - and that it is a good idea to avoid the risk of mis-plugging by using incompatible connectors. (they also appeared to be 3-way shells)

 

For example, on my current portable layout, I am using an ebay-sourced  '6mm spade terminal style multiway 'automotive' connector' - available in 2, 4,, 6, 8 and 10 (possibly 12) way sizes - using common components ie spade terminals M+F, which are easily crimped or soldered as you wish.  I cut off the latching-end-lock so as to make them releasable when I want when crawling underneath during derig.

They have an adequate current rating and will take large or small (if soldered) wires.   They are perhaps a bit bulky.

As many sources on Ebay have similar appearing ranges - which may not be compatible !! - I recommend buying sufficient in 1 go for your needs - and/or note who you ordered from  (which Ebay makes easy)

[ISW]

I only drew attention to them as  'servo connectors' as I thought, since you had mentioned using Servos for point control,there was a possiblility or risk of your servos coming with the same ( ie physically compatible connectors - and that it is a good idea to avoid the risk of mis-plugging by using incompatible connectors. (they also appeared to be 3-way shells)

 

As many sources on Ebay have similar appearing ranges - which may not be compatible !! - I recommend buying sufficient in 1 go for your needs - and/or note who you ordered from  (which Ebay makes easy)

Phil,

 

Actually, the sockets and crimp terminals I bought from Hobbytronics (I'm sure others also supply, eBay as you point out) so I have a reasonably reliable future source, if all goes well with the assembly. You can see their 'range' at http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/cables-connectors/crimp-connectors.