Heaton Lodge Jct - Static Grass Masterclass..

[HeatonLodge40]

I’ve had a few messages asking if I’ll repeat the techniques used to model the rough grass on Heaton Lodge Junction’ many embankments and cutting.

I should say I’ve ‘appropriated’ and modified techniques by such maestro modellers as Giles Favell and Gordon Gravett so all thanks to them.

 

The goal here is to exactly mimic the prototype railway cuttings & embankments as they really appear in all seasons (modelled in any gauge) as inexpensively and quickly as possible (2sq feet take me 20 mins).

Whether winter or summer I personally wouldn’t change the following formula - as on the lineside the unkempt grass is never ever green, but always washed out and full of weeds. (And litter).

 

So what’s on the shopping list? Well not actually a great deal ...

 

1) Bog basic PVA glue (no need for all this basing/layering fancy stuff)

2) Static grass obviously - I personally use only those sold in one colour (not mixed colour fibres) and stick to ‘late autumn’ winter grass. My weapon of choice is by Noch and Mini Natur - the second of which is getting difficult to obtain in the UK without a bit of browsing online. However if you’ve got your favourites stick to them but apply the following stages.

3) Earth powder by Treemendus.co.uk (available on line) - or alternatively earth from the garden dried and crushed with a rolling pin then put through a sieve.

I can’t emphasise how important this stuff is - it transforms the appearance of the finished article and is as vital as dough is to baking bread.

4) Spray Matt Varnish (clear). I use Rustoleum which is a fiver online for a big can but £9 in B&Q (!) Other brands often turn the grass white and since we are not modelling the Swiss Alps I stick to what I know works..

5) A vacuum cleaner with a nozzle

6) Blended Turf - Earth blend by Woodland Scenics.

 

Here’s the line up modelled by a couple of friendly Heljan Cargowaggens - and a pic of what we are aiming for..

 

The foundation or base is relatively unimportant since it’s covered. That said I always use expanded polystyrene carved to the shape required. It’s light and you can ‘plant’ trees and fences into it. Once fixed with ‘no more nails’ type of glue I add a thin layer of ready mixed plaster from B&Q and paint it brown when dry. As Pete Waterman says in his book - this stuff will save your life. (The polystyrene not the plaster).

Pebbles are an option - I like them as they replicate the tufts of grass seen lineside very well. Press them into the plaster..if you’re modelling in ‘N’ gauge don’t obviously use larger pebbles or your tufts will be the size of a house.

 

Ok we are digressing here..back to the static grass.

 

Step 1 - daub on a lovely thick layer of PVA with an old brush.

 

Step 2 - using one of the variety of static grass guns apply your chosen static grass (my preference is Mini Natur Late Fall 4.5mm & 6mm

If you are modelling in N or OO I’d use 2mm & 4.5mm lengths.

Make sure the ground nail/screw whatever is pressed firmly into the base.

 

Step 3 - out with the vac and pass the nozzle an inch above the surface (if you are conscious of waste - stick a stocking over the end). Don’t worry if the nozzle gets pulled into the grass and sucks it all up like a crop circle - it adds to the effect!

 

Step 4 - Earth powder time. Sprinkle either the Treemendus earth powder (or crushed dried earth) liberally over the grass immediately with the PVA still wet.

(If you are using dried earth, then it should be sieved as fine as possible onto the grass - dry it initially on a baking tray, crush it with a rolling pin and sieve it).

See the difference before and after earth powder in this pic - before is on the right side.

 

 

Step 5 - give it all a good old spray with the matt varnish..

 

Step 6 - nearly there now. More spray varnish but in concentrated areas where we are looking for longer grass length this time. You should be able to see the varnish clinging to the grass in small droplets..it dries clear so don’t worry

 

Step 7 - out with the gun again (and using the same combination is fine) hold the gun over the heavily varnished patches until lots more grass is sticking on top. Note - don’t worry if the grass has ‘fallen over’ or doesn’t seem to to be as upright - we’ll fix this in a mo.

 

Step 8 - out with that vac and pass the nozzle over the new grass. Much will be sucked up but at least half will stay down and be pulled upright. Even a little bit left adds enormously to the effect.

 

Step 9 - more earth powder/earth over the new grass - be generous. Brown patches are good. We also can fill in any accidental aforementioned ‘crop circles’ with earth. You’ll note it just adds to the realism. Uniformity is to be avoided..

 

Step 10 - almost there! More varnish (this time a light coat) and get out the woodland scenics earth blend. Sprinkle in random patches to represent weeds in the grass. A final light coat of varnish secures the earth blend and voila! You should have some superb looking grass!

 

(Thanks to the patient driver of the Heljan (modified) ‘37 for his participation in the making of this post.)

[Mick Bonwick]

I think Masterclass is a very apt description of the topic. Whether the ideas, materials and methods are nicked from elsewhere is irrelevant, it's the putting of it all together that matters, and this topic demonstrates that admirably. Although I've done a fair bit of work with static grass, I've not used the idea of an earth 'underlay' before. That's about to change.

 

Thanks for posting. Excellent work!