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Dapol 14xx N Gauge


Richard E
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Right, I'm currently converting my N Gauge fleet to DCC.

 

Whilst I have several different loco's to do I've not seen a guide for the Dapol 14xx.

 

First of all it is important to note that there are at least two versions of the N Gauge 14xx out there. And I've got one of each! The conversion is, however, substantially the same for both versions. You just need to be aware that the tank front is a separate moulding on the earlier version. The cab roof is easy to remove on the later ones, not so easy on the early ones. Visually it is quite simple to tell them apart, the early one has very shiny tyres on the wheels which really stand out in a side view, it is this version pictured here.

 

The first part of the conversion is to strip the loco to it's main components by unscrewing the chimney and gently separating the boiler and smokebox from the rest of the loco by lifting it at the smokebox end. Once you have done that it is possible to remove the body from the chassis taking care to unclip the pipes that run along the footplate edge from the chassis. Don't worry if they do become detached though:

 

14xx major components

 
Next thing to do is detach the existing wires from the motor:
 

Dapol 14xx wiring

 
Then do the same for the pick up end of the wires. You'll find that the wires are superglued into the chassis block so removing them will destroy them. You need to clean out the slots as a result. A bit of the old insulation can be seen in the slot towards the front of the loco in this picture.
 
Here you can see the decoder I'm using, it is a CT Elektronik DCX74zD. Two reasons for choosing this, one is size - it is small enough to fit into most N gauge locos quite easily, the second is cost - I've bought these from a seller on EBay at £12.75 a decoder.
 

Decoder

 
On the commutator end of the motor is a plastic moulding which on the early version has two horizontal bars each with a hole in each end. Later versions have just one bar. These are ideal for feeding the motor and pick up wires through (I only fed the pick up wires through on the later one though it should be possible to get both wires to fit). Solder the appropriate decoder wires to the motor and the pick ups. Be careful not to create any large solder blobs on the pick ups as they will foul the tank front.
 
At this point test the chassis on the programming track and programme as desired. If, like me, you have got the motor wires the wrong way round this is easy to sort out using the normal/reverse option in setting up the chip.
 
Now it gets fiddly. I slip a bit of heatshrink around the chip but do not shrink it, it is a tight fit anyway and it serves to hide the chip at normal viewing distances as well as insulate it. The chip fits into the cab nicely, being able to remove the cab roof makes getting it fitted much easier.
 
And, having put it all back together you get a 14xx that runs ever so sweetly under full DCC control. In this picture you can just see a small bit of the orange motor wire in the cab, that will be dealt with by a dab of matt black paint.
 

14xx Completed

 

So, there we have it - a DCC fitted n gauge 14xx. An easy job, about an hour to complete and, if I can do this, then any modeller worth their salt can do it as well.

 

I've actually had more problems fitting decoders into loco's that are DCC ready! I've got about a dozen of those, some bought as ready fitted, some I've done myself. Decoder size is critical though.

 

I've got some more hard wired conversions on the stocks. Those already done include a GWR split chassis railcar, a Union Mills Dean Goods, Ixion Manor and a Dapol 45/55xx 2-6-2 small Prairie. To come are a number of Farish Panniers, a couple more 45xx, another Dean Goods, a 61xx large Prairie and a Terrier! The Dean Goods uses a CT decoder again but the DCX77zD which is even smaller. Unfortunately they are not easy to get hold of at present and are quite dear. The 45/55xx uses a Gaugemaster DCC22 decoder, a Digitrains DZ126 would fit as well and is cheaper.

 

If anyone would like to see a further guide in the same vein as this one for any of my other efforts please let me know.

Edited by Richard E
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6 hours ago, N Quay Harbour said:

Thanks for that Richard. Would it be possible to post a picture of the chassis with the decoder fitted before you put the Body back on? I'd love a follow up for fitting a decoder to the Graham Farish 2-6-2 Prairie if you have a record.

 

I'll see what I can sort out for you and add to this topic/a new topic.

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14xx chassis picture. The tape round the decoder is to protect it from contact with the motor case and also serves to hide it when looking into the cab. Note cable to pickup uses the original cable guide.

 

 

14xxcrop.jpg

Edited by Richard E
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14 minutes ago, Richard E said:

14xx chassis picture. The tape round the decoder is to protect it from contact with the motor case and also serves to hide it when looking into the cab. Note cable to pickup uses the original cable guide.

 

14xxcrop.jpg.acc185f743262ef535aed2a79a25e639.jpg

Looking at that I can’t believe how relatively big the motors are in 2mm stuff, there are some really small D.C. motors around now, I assume they have enough grunt for tiny Locos.

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45 minutes ago, boxbrownie said:

Looking at that I can’t believe how relatively big the motors are in 2mm stuff, there are some really small D.C. motors around now, I assume they have enough grunt for tiny Locos.

Don't forget that is a model from early 2000s, there are now companies who sell replacement coreless motors for some older N gauge.  Also, the 14xx was a tiny model.

Edited by woodenhead
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10 minutes ago, woodenhead said:

Don't forget that is a model from early 2000s, there are now companies who sell replacement coreless motors for some older N gauge.  Also, the 14xx was a tiny model.

Yes, I’d just like to see some of the manufacturers using the much smaller motors now.

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