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Is Bachmann going to produce a new SR Olive green N-class?


Lacathedrale
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There is at least one more not on that list

32-164, 31406 BR Lined Black late crest, Standard 4MT chimney.

https://hattonsimages.blob.core.windows.net/products/32-164_1.jpg

 

They are nice runners with plenty of weight.

You can squeeze a small decoder in them without removing weight but it's tight.

 

Keith

 

Plus

32-165, 31874 BR Lined Black early crest

32-166, 1406 SR black.

32-165DC, 31869 Br Early crest, weathered, DCC fitted

32-154A, 31404 BR Late crest, weathered

32-150V 1860 SR Black, Modelzone SE

Edited by melmerby
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I have three: two BR black and one SR lined olive. All were pre-DCC-ready, but it really isn't all that difficult to convert them to DCC if that's what is required, otherwise, for straight DC, they are fine no matter what age (watch for a few early ones with mazak 'rot', though). All are lovely runners.

There are quite a few second-hand ones (sorry: pre-owned!) on Hatton's site, but for some reason Hatton's list them as not DCC compatible, split chassis. I have emailed them to correct this, as they were the first of Bachmann's blue riband range, with non-split chassis.

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Thanks SRman, that's exactly what prompted me to worry - I thought there was a new tooling which wasn't split-chassis. If the older ones just had hardwires rather than sockets then that's fine too.

 

The earlier non-DCC-ready ones are easy enough to convert but require a fairly small decoder to fit in. Mine use an early Digitrax DZ123, a later DZ125, and the SR one has a CT Elektronik decoder - the last is what I would have preferred if I had been able to get them when I did the two earlier BR examples, as I am not a huge fan of Digitrax decoders. TCS also have a nice powerful small decoder in the M1 and M4 types.

 

The trick with hard-wiring the N is to remove the PCB that sits up beside the vertically mounted motor, then wire the decoder straight in, tacked into the space the PCB used to occupy.

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Thanks SRman, that's exactly what prompted me to worry - I thought there was a new tooling which wasn't split-chassis. If the older ones just had hardwires rather than sockets then that's fine too.

 

None of the N class produced were ever split chassis. It was one of the first of Bachmann's Blue Ribbon range which introduced a single solid chassis block and sprung buffers.

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In the course of time, I became the pleased possessor of some half doz of these. I had to hard wire the earliest purchases with mixed results, but I was right to attribute that to my own limited dexterity. Eventually I bought two of the Modelzone limited edition in sunshine/black and fitted TCS decoders. The end result was more than satisfactory. I had originally expected to renumber the duplicates but in the event that did not happen. No matter, as 1860 they both lived up to my wishes.

 

PB

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I have several, mostly bought secondhand. 1824 was dug out the other day and performed perfectly. The ultimate detail may not be there on these older models, but the willingness on the layout goes a long way to compensate for that.

 

To be fair, the basic tooling is still very good. Things that show its age include things like massively chunky lamp ions / head code disc holders, unpainted and a single one piece moulded cab controls insert, lack of provision for DCC sound and the occasionally temperamental loco - tender drawbar setup.

 

None of these would take much to fix and would bring the model bang up to date.

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To be fair, the basic tooling is still very good. Things that show its age include things like massively chunky lamp ions / head code disc holders, unpainted and a single one piece moulded cab controls insert, lack of provision for DCC sound and the occasionally temperamental loco - tender drawbar setup.

 

None of these would take much to fix and would bring the model bang up to date.

 

Nice looking Malachite version of the N, for £55 (used), here :

 

https://www.cheltenhammodelcentre.com/products/c2972-oo-gauge-second-hand/?page=1

 

If anyone is interested!

 

cheers,

 

Keith

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......... the occasionally temperamental loco - tender drawbar setup.

IF your curves are generous enough - no, not you madam - cut the wishboney bits off the tender end of the drawbar and arrange for a simple pin-in-hole connection : mine have a hole in the drawbar and a 10BA bolt tapped into the retaining plate beneath ..... but there must be plenty of other ways to do this.

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