Southern Pride Mk1 kits with etched brass sides.

[Mallard60022]

Has anyone decided to build one of these kits in a slightly different way to that suggested?

I'm put off by the two large bolts that attach body/roof to UF.

An example would be, build the coach body as a carcass with the roof, 'outer ends', clear sides cut as is shown on the instructions) thus as one would if using a donor RTR coach and then attaching the etched sides. I suppose this could still involve completing the interior and fixing that to the Floor Pan and also finishing the sides including painting, and then attaching them? Alternatively that carcass (roof, outer ends, etched sides attached, could then be painted and then sides glazed with plasticard clear. 

What I think I am trying to achieve is something similar to the 'Comet method' of;

creating roof sides and ends as a separate unit that becomes attachable/detachable from the UF.

This would mean finishing that body 'unit' (but not using all of the 'window area' of the clear SP sides, (but using glazing as one would with a Comet kit), including painting, and then creating joiners of some design to attach that to the UF. 

Seems a bit of a faff now I've written it down .

Any thoughts gratefully received; the kit is a D25 KB, so quite a lot of whitened windows.

Phil

[Joseph_Pestell]

I've never done one - but definitely a possibility for the future.

 

From what you write, it sounds as though you might need to construct a second "false" floor.

[145 Squadron]

Has anyone decided to build one of these kits in a slightly different way to that suggested?

I'm put off by the two large bolts that attach body/roof to UF.

An example would be, build the coach body as a carcass with the roof, 'outer ends', clear sides cut as is shown on the instructions) thus as one would if using a donor RTR coach and then attaching the etched sides. I suppose this could still involve completing the interior and fixing that to the Floor Pan and also finishing the sides including painting, and then attaching them? Alternatively that carcass (roof, outer ends, etched sides attached, could then be painted and then sides glazed with plasticard clear. 

What I think I am trying to achieve is something similar to the 'Comet method' of;

creating roof sides and ends as a separate unit that becomes attachable/detachable from the UF.

This would mean finishing that body 'unit' (but not using all of the 'window area' of the clear SP sides, (but using glazing as one would with a Comet kit), including painting, and then creating joiners of some design to attach that to the UF. 

Seems a bit of a faff now I've written it down .

Any thoughts gratefully received; the kit is a D25 KB, so quite a lot of whitened windows.

Phil

 

 Phil

 

I have done this with a couple of Bulleids as an experiment some time ago; the basic Southern Pride kit - chassis, ends roof and perspex sides assembled  as normal with Comet etched sides (prepainted and decalled) then glued to the perspex. I prefer to keep the roof separate as it is easier to fit the interior from the top than underneath. The brass fixing bolts hardly show if you pre-treat them with blackening solution. Relying on only the etched sides with perspex backing does not give sufficient strength to the body/end/roof construction in my view (as testified by an couple of models assembled this way which I recently purchased second hand).

 

I did not continue with the prior method as I did not like the prismatic effect of the thick perspex sides, which the etched sides seemed to emphasise.

 

Good luck with your project.

 

Tony

[Mallard60022]

 Phil

 

I have done this with a couple of Bulleids as an experiment some time ago; the basic Southern Pride kit - chassis, ends roof and perspex sides assembled  as normal with Comet etched sides (prepainted and decalled) then glued to the perspex. I prefer to keep the roof separate as it is easier to fit the interior from the top than underneath. The brass fixing bolts hardly show if you pre-treat them with blackening solution. Relying on only the etched sides with perspex backing does not give sufficient strength to the body/end/roof construction in my view (as testified by an couple of models assembled this way which I recently purchased second hand).

 

I did not continue with the prior method as I did not like the prismatic effect of the thick perspex sides, which the etched sides seemed to emphasise.

 

Good luck with your project.

 

Tony

 

Excellent Tony. Thanks for that tip.

Phil