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A Highland Miscellany - a Gantry Signal Doing My Head In!


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Nice model Mark, I look forward to seeing it finished. Number 103 was one engine that I missed when BR ran those specials towards the end of steam, showing my age.

 

Geoff.

 

Thanks Geoff, I have only seen her in Kelvinside myself and there she was rather hemmed in - do you know if it is better at the Riverside Museum? There was a bit of noise about trying to get her going for the HR's 150th (which would be 2015); I am not sure whether it has got traction though as I suspect it would be a big task. It would be grand though wouldn't it?

 

I have not managed to get that much modelling done over the summer (boooh!) and what I have being doing on the Big Goods is mostly underneath and not really very photographic. However, I have knocked up a new backhead, as that which is provided in the kit is not really worthwhile.

 

post-7769-0-64957200-1315257519.jpg

 

Not too bad for something that is only 15mm high!

 

The list of outstanding things to do is now getting quite short, so there is a real danger she will be finished soon. Now, wheel balance weights is next............

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I do not know about the museums Mark, I have never seen 103 other than on film. I have seen a Loco Profiles volume on the Highland Jones goods and Indian L classes IIRC. The centrepiece is a Jones goods in HR green, not the Stroudley yellow she is preserved in. Best of luck with the build.

 

Geoff.

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Only a little has been completed to the Big Goods this week; I was a little distracted by Portskerra at Woking (a very atmospheric layout I thought) and also by my trying my hand at some 3D CAD modelling.

 

In this case, I was trying my hand at a Highland Railway water column and here are the present results:

 

post-7769-0-63356100-1315775535_thumb.jpg

 

post-7769-0-68466700-1315775662_thumb.jpg

 

There are errors inwhat I have drawn, I think, so it will probably need redoing but i have found that the first one took about seven hours, the redrafting of it about three and I suspect that once I get going it will take less than two!

 

It is Bill Bedford that alerted me to the moderate simplicity of this; although even though I was OK with CAD in 2D, the third dimension does take a lot of getting into. Hence the learning curve. The idea will be to use the model to get a rapid prototype made of this CAD model, and then use this to make resin cast repeats. For those of you that are going to Scaleforum (if not why not!?!?) then I do urge you to look at Bill's stand - he has got some exquisit prototypes on show, including a Kirtly outside framed 0-6-0. I am quite sure that this is one area that the hobby will go down in the coming years.

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Managing to answer my own question, this is what 103 looks like in her new home:

post-7769-0-21340900-1315951966_thumb.jpg

So considerably better presented than in Kelvinhall, you can actually see her.

 

Photo with permission from Culture and Sports Glasgow (Museums) as per their Flickr listing.

 

Interestingly, looking at the picture, it indicates that you need to be careful with non-contemporary photographs. I had just had a panic about the smokebox door, smokebox hinges and lamp brackets; all of which are not as I have modelled 17919 (which is ex 106). However, contemporary photogrpahs just consulted and I can breath a sigh of releif..................

Edited by Portchullin Tatty
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Interesting picture Mark. She looks like she is painted Highland Railway Muscat Green, rather than yellow that she was originally preserved in. Northern Rock on the R&ER is also in that colour and in certain lights it can appear yellow, though not to the extent of that preservation colour of 103 e.g. Those Magnificent men in their flying machines.

 

Geoff.

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She looks like she is painted Highland Railway Muscat Green.

 

Not sure about that, I think the HR Society would have been abuzz with that if it had happened. I think it is just the hue of the picture.

 

I have never really liked the yellow; the fully lined green was always my favourate for the HR goods engines so I would welcome it. Even better is lined LMS red for the mixed traffic/passenger ones - hence modelling the highland in the 1920's!

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  • 2 months later...

Managing to answer my own question, this is what 103 looks like in her new home:

post-7769-0-21340900-1315951966_thumb.jpg

 

 

There is a rather mixed review of the new Riverside Museum in November's Steam Railway magazine. Apparently the walls are painted pistachio, which accounts for the unusual hue of the engine in the photograph.

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There is a rather mixed review of the new Riverside Museum in November's Steam Railway magazine. Apparently the walls are painted pistachio, which accounts for the unusual hue of the engine in the photograph.

 

It has got to be better than Kelvin Hall in terms of seeing the exhibits? Havign said this, I did quite like the old time feel of Kelvin Hall. It reminded me of Clapham Railway Museum, for those oldies out there that remember that!

 

Superb modelling here love the backhead and yes a museum to visit without a doubt

 

Thanks, I really must get the damn thing truely finished!! Keep watching this space!

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Managing to fail to complete the Jones Goods, despite my own advice to myself, I have picked up on some sheep vans. In this case these were designed by David Jones and are very characteristic of the Highland Railway, being two storeys high. I am not aware of any other company in the UK that used them - but I think the Irish may have - just an example of the economics of running a line on a shoestring!

 

These are based on a kit from Peter K, which are still available (or at least the etches are). They do need a lot of work though. Each of the bars has to be inserted individually and then there are multiple layers to build up to form the body, the sliding doors, the runners, the runner wheels, the end ribs and then the ironwork......................... They all then need fettling and tidying up to look smart. I reckon each of these represents around 15 -20 hours to the point that they can be painted, whcih is a little extreme for a wagon.

 

post-7769-0-10559300-1322231052_thumb.jpg

 

the frets for the sides, where the bars have been inserted but there are still lots of further layers to go on

 

post-7769-0-42947400-1322231069_thumb.jpg

 

The basic assembly done, with the end ribs on but there are still the wheels for the doors to go yet!

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An interesting type that I have not seen before. If it is double decked is there a floor at the mid level, or were they also used for cattle, without the second floor? If so how did they squeeze through the doors? I think I'm answering my own question here. :no:

Edited by Ohmisterporter
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The

An interesting type that I have not seen before. If it is double decked is there a floor at the mid level, or were they also used for cattle, without the second floor? If so how did they squeeze through the doors? I think I'm answering my own question here. :no:

Yes they do have a floor at mid level. This is fixed, so they can not be used for cattle and as you have seen, the doors are half height being duplicated on each level.

 

I have not put the floor in yet, as I suspend it from hangers to the roof. This enables me to get all them blast*d sheep in the lower deck. I will be doing more on these tomorrow and should get them finished for the paint shop. I'll take a photo that shows this.

Edited by Portchullin Tatty
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  • 2 weeks later...

The two double deck sheep van are now finished (and given how much effort they took, an "at last" is not unwarrated!).

 

Here they are just starting their trip through the paint shop. One will be in HR livery (which is an umber but I think it will have faded lighter) and the other LMS grey. This is explains why there are different number of plated sections on the upper sides - two for the H and R, three for L, M and S.

 

post-7769-0-23790500-1323543543_thumb.jpg

 

I have also knocked up a couple of timber wagons. In contrast to the sheep vans, these went together in a couple of hours - they being white metall kits from Model Wagon Co. They are also for the paint shop:

 

post-7769-0-03442000-1323543921_thumb.jpg

 

I will load this with logs. I have used heather stems as logs in the past and will look to do so again. You can probably see the small holes in the side - on the kit this had a cast on O ring that ropes would have been tied too. I have removed these and will insert O rings with cord between them once the load are in.

Edited by Portchullin Tatty
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  • 4 weeks later...

Whilst I had lots of modelling plans for the Christmas break, the only one that really got off the ground was to experiment with servos for the operation of turnouts (TOUs) and signals. In this regard, my Christmas has been similar to

 

Firstly, dealing with turnout operation, I have made up a couple of mounts to support both the servo and mount a microswitch that will be used to operate the changing of the crossing polarity. The first prototype shows how it works a little better than the second prototype, as all is visible in the same shot.

 

post-7769-0-68016800-1325614851_thumb.jpg

 

The second prototype is much neater and smaller though.

 

post-7769-0-71895800-1325614866_thumb.jpg

 

I plan to work on these a little more to refine them further, in part by producing a baseplate. This will be permanently secured to the underside of the layout and the actual TOU will be bolted to this. I aim to standardise the sizes of these and batch produce them (probably with an etch) so that if I do have a failure, it is a fairly simple matter of swapping over the servo and its TOU even in exhibition environs.

 

I plan to work on these a little more to refine them further, in part by producing a baseplate. This will be permanently secured to the underside of the layout and the actual TOU will be bolted to this. I aim to standardise the sizes of these and batch produce them (probably with an etch) so that if I do have a failure, it is a fairly simple matter of swapping over the servo and its TOU even in exhibition environs.

 

For some time I have moved away from tie bars that are part of the TOU; I had several problems with them including finding that they were sloppy as the heat from the soldering of connections to the switch rails distorted the plastic insulation material that held the support prongs and also because they did not hold the switch tightly against the stock rail. The old trick of a copper clad sleeper always seemed to me to be the most reliable but ugliest solution to this problem – thus I adopted this solution but buried the sleeper in the formation by utilising spacers of square section brass.

 

post-7769-0-52270700-1325614923.jpg

 

post-7769-0-03614400-1325614939.jpg

 

Hopefully the pictures show how this is put together and the final one shows that the whole of the gubbins can be hidden below paper which in turn receives the ballast on top. I have used these on Portchullin for several years now and the only problem that I have encountered is that I put mine in a routed slot that was not full depth, so I have had an accumulation of gunk get caught below them. Next time, I will route the slot to the full depth so that any dirt that gets through the paper (it has to have small slots for the arms that are soldered to the switches) just falls away.

post-7769-0-83140700-1325614952.jpg

Edited by Portchullin Tatty
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Due to commitments with Portchullin and a rather busy period at work (no bad thing in a recession for a consultant!), things have been a bit slow with the workbench. However, the coach is now painted. Prior to painting (and after the grit blasting noted before), i washed it a couple of times in cellulose thinners to remove any dust and grease. I used Precision paints two pack etching primer and am very impressed with this too. Then, for the crimson lake, I used Halfords "Volkswagen Gambia Red" which I reckon is spot on. I do use a light coat of Halfords red oxide primer as an undercoat though - red can be a very funny colour to paint. post-7769-072836400 1287347420_thumb.jpg Lining has commenced. Whilst I have lined with a bow pen in the past, I lost my nerve for this one and am using Fox's lining! I will put in the corners with a brush (for the straw) and then a Rotring pen (for the black).

 

Which Fox lining did you use?

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Which Fox lining did you use?

 

I think it is:

 

LMS London Midland & Scottish Yellow/Black/Yellow Coach Lining 20 Lengths each 292mm approx

Code: FRH4212 Scale: 4mm/00 £11.35

 

but it just might have been FRH4213 - the website does not give you any clues as to the difference and I seem to have discarded the reference tag!

 

The LMS used yellow/black/yellow for non-corridor and straw/black/straw for corridor (actually there was a red band either side of the black, but this is really tiny so few bother).

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Whilst I had lots of modelling plans for the Christmas break, the only one that really got off the ground was to experiment with servos for the operation of turnouts (TOUs) and signals. In this regard, my Christmas has been similar to

 

Firstly, dealing with turnout operation, I have made up a couple of mounts to support both the servo and mount a microswitch that will be used to operate the changing of the crossing polarity. The first prototype shows how it works a little better than the second prototype, as all is visible in the same shot.

 

post-7769-0-68016800-1325614851_thumb.jpg

 

The second prototype is much neater and smaller though.

 

post-7769-0-71895800-1325614866_thumb.jpg

 

I plan to work on these a little more to refine them further, in part by producing a baseplate. This will be permanently secured to the underside of the layout and the actual TOU will be bolted to this. I aim to standardise the sizes of these and batch produce them (probably with an etch) so that if I do have a failure, it is a fairly simple matter of swapping over the servo and its TOU even in exhibition environs.

 

I plan to work on these a little more to refine them further, in part by producing a baseplate. This will be permanently secured to the underside of the layout and the actual TOU will be bolted to this. I aim to standardise the sizes of these and batch produce them (probably with an etch) so that if I do have a failure, it is a fairly simple matter of swapping over the servo and its TOU even in exhibition environs.

 

For some time I have moved away from tie bars that are part of the TOU; I had several problems with them including finding that they were sloppy as the heat from the soldering of connections to the switch rails distorted the plastic insulation material that held the support prongs and also because they did not hold the switch tightly against the stock rail. The old trick of a copper clad sleeper always seemed to me to be the most reliable but ugliest solution to this problem – thus I adopted this solution but buried the sleeper in the formation by utilising spacers of square section brass.

 

post-7769-0-52270700-1325614923.jpg

 

post-7769-0-03614400-1325614939.jpg

 

Hopefully the pictures show how this is put together and the final one shows that the whole of the gubbins can be hidden below paper which in turn receives the ballast on top. I have used these on Portchullin for several years now and the only problem that I have encountered is that I put mine in a routed slot that was not full depth, so I have had an accumulation of gunk get caught below them. Next time, I will route the slot to the full depth so that any dirt that gets through the paper (it has to have small slots for the arms that are soldered to the switches) just falls away.

post-7769-0-83140700-1325614952.jpg

Mark,

You make this look easy.., I'm going to take this as a nudge to pull my finger out and get on with that turnout of mine... and start something. Thanks... oh, and Happy New Year

Jon

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I think it is:

 

LMS London Midland & Scottish Yellow/Black/Yellow Coach Lining 20 Lengths each 292mm approx

Code: FRH4212 Scale: 4mm/00 £11.35

 

but it just might have been FRH4213 - the website does not give you any clues as to the difference and I seem to have discarded the reference tag!

 

The LMS used yellow/black/yellow for non-corridor and straw/black/straw for corridor (actually there was a red band either side of the black, but this is really tiny so few bother).

 

Ah Thanks for that. I couldn't see the black line in your photo so that would be no good for me.

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I also incorporated the servos into a signal over the break. There are several threads on RMweb that have done this but I wanted to refine these a little by making them semi-permanent fittings.

 

The idea is that a mount is made (the copper clad in this case) that is permanently screwed to the baseboard and incorporates a hole just large enough to pass the servo through (for this servo this is 27 * 14mm) and then the baseplate (which is 28 * 15mm in size)to the signal is secured with some 10BA screws onto the mount. The signal can live on the layout (which means that neither its operation or the scenery around it get disturbed by repeated removal) but, if damage occurs or maintenance is required it can still be removed.

 

This is what is shown below, applied to a MacKenzie & Holland lattice signal, with a couple of shunt arms on it – a replica of one at Kyle that controlled the exit from the shed. The Highland were rather fond of these and they arguably over signalled (which given how frugal they otherwise were is a surprise!).

 

post-7769-0-16891400-1325717243.jpg post-7769-0-10102600-1325716544.jpg

 

post-7769-0-06012800-1325717359_thumb.jpg

 

I think that this has worked and is pretty tidy. It will get more complicated with signals that have a number of dolls/arms, but we will cross that bridge when we get there.

 

A quick note about the ladder. Utilising the ladder stringers that need bars inserted into them gives a much better appearance than the flat etched versions – they are really easy to make as you can see.

 

post-7769-0-85243600-1325716468.jpg

Edited by Portchullin Tatty
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Ah Thanks for that. I couldn't see the black line in your photo so that would be no good for me.

 

If you are after only yellow (or gold) lining then Fox do do this.

Lining in yellow - 14 lines, 298mm x 2.5mm

Code: FG1841 Scale: ANY

 

They are pretty helpful when you call, so explain what you are after and see if they do it?

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Mark,

You make this look easy.., I'm going to take this as a nudge to pull my finger out and get on with that turnout of mine... and start something. Thanks... oh, and Happy New Year

Jon

 

And a happy new year to you too!

 

Just plunge in is my advice. Is it a Exactosale/P4 Track turnout or ply and rivet. Whichever, there are a number of threads on here (and the society forum) that show how others have faired with their first ones. All have survived!

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If you are after only yellow (or gold) lining then Fox do do this.

Lining in yellow - 14 lines, 298mm x 2.5mm

Code: FG1841 Scale: ANY

 

They are pretty helpful when you call, so explain what you are after and see if they do it?

 

Thanks I will do as I am looking for gold lining for my North Eastern coaches.

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