Chubber Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 Following my attempts [in this section] at building a harbour office in card and Scalescenes papers, I have started another Ahern model, this time of a warehouse that he sketched in North Wales, shown below. Copyright CV Russell and E Fells Reproduced with their kind permissions. I am building it in exactly the same way as the harbour office, there being no commercially available windows I have cut the frames from a print-out on satin photo-paper and fixed them to pieces of C.D. case plastic with MEK Pak solvent. Please feel free to ask any questions as I go along rather than me blathering on! I scaled up a working drawing from the illustration As this is again to be a low-relief model, I have [on the model] increased the pitch of the roof to about 45 degrees so as to be able to include the ridge, both chimney stacks and a little of the far side of the roof, all of which will add to the sense of realism when viewd from the average modelling view-point. I have chosen Scalescenes 'TX47 Coursed Rubble' over 2mm paste-board following my usual practice of selectively indenting various lines and features to increase the already commendable impression of texture that the paper portrays. I have chosen to make the shutters and woodwork from 140gm/sq. mm. watercolour paper so as to give a 'rough' texture, to suit the neglected, heavily weathered appearance alluded to in the accompanying text, colouring it with several washes of watercolour in various reds and brown. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted September 26, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 26, 2010 With customers/users like you, Mr W's clever idea just gets better. Stonking result I would be delighted to achieve. Bachmann having just released a comparable-in-size warehouse in low relief, I did wonder about a purchase, but your approach looks far more tailorable to my ideas. Hmm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted September 26, 2010 Author Share Posted September 26, 2010 Thanks, Ian, it'll start to look a little less like a 'kit of bits' when the shutters etc get a coat of matt acrylic varnish. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted September 28, 2010 Author Share Posted September 28, 2010 With the remaining windows in place, I have made up the chimneys as suggested by Ahern, from strip wood, covered with paper, thus....... I shall indicate the flue simply by gluing an irregular piece of black paper on the top of the stack. I don't believe a rubble-stone chimney of these slim dimensions would realistically have a safe square flue, but they are an important part of the appearance of the building and so I shall complete them in rubble-stone as drawn. I feel they would have been made brick, with the requisite outer brickwork incorporated into the stone end wall. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamouti Ben Yafo Posted September 29, 2010 Share Posted September 29, 2010 Yes, that's a common style in South Wales - I can't speak for North Wales, as I (regrettably) haven't spent half enough time up there. When on an end of terrace house, this brick flue style used to fascinate me - to my (then) young eyes it looked like a bizarre humanoid figure. Love your building, BTW. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gastwo Posted September 29, 2010 Share Posted September 29, 2010 Brilliant work Doug! One query I have - you say you use 2mm pasteboard - where do you get that from? at the moment I'm using Daler mount board that I use for picture framing, and I wondered if there was a less expensive product? Your advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Shaun. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted September 30, 2010 Author Share Posted September 30, 2010 Brilliant work Doug! One query I have - you say you use 2mm pasteboard - where do you get that from? at the moment I'm using Daler mount board that I use for picture framing, and I wondered if there was a less expensive product? Your advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Shaun. Thanks, SBY, for your post, Shaun, my paste board was bought here in France, but is just like the grey stuff picture framers use to 'bulk out' a multi-layer frame mount, bundle of which I scrounged from a framers in Petersfield, Hants. To my mind, when given a coat of matt acrylic varnish and a touch-up with sandpaper, it is a dead-ringer for cast concrete, as below. Sorry I can't be more helpful. Doug [scalescenes red brick and dark blue brick arches] Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamouti Ben Yafo Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 Do Cogirep stock that? Seriously, though, I must say - Oh, yes. Fantastic work; best concrete I've seen that wasn't 12" to the foot (and better than much that was!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted October 3, 2010 Author Share Posted October 3, 2010 Just a picture to show progress to date.....yes, Ahern says the shutters were different colours, brown and one pale green! I think photos at this stage are a good way of seeing what needs touching up etc....i.e. lots! I've not been too happy with model, but hopefully it will come together soon. The roof need some dark wash in between each slate etc, lots of 'white' bits and the gutters and down-pipes to fit. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted October 3, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 3, 2010 Doug, Was the chain any good ? Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted October 4, 2010 Author Share Posted October 4, 2010 Doug, Was the chain any good ? Stu You bet! Thank you, I have put a note and a thank you in 'the other place'! Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted October 4, 2010 Author Share Posted October 4, 2010 A bit more weathering and touching-up today, gutters and downpipes, still roof lichen and 'weeds' to apply, then a coat of matt acrylic varnish. The windows have been painted on the inside with matt varnish to make them opaque. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted October 4, 2010 Author Share Posted October 4, 2010 The final incarnation, a bit more weathering and some green stuff. Will it make any 'non-card' modellers try a stone building in card? Papers used are all Scalescenes, TX31 cobblestone, TX18 slates, TX47 Coursed rubble. Copyright CV Russell and E Fells Reproduced with their kind permissions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 Hi Chubber/Doug, Could you advise the name of the book you are using for the drawings please. Looking Reeeaaalll goood Khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Etched Pixels Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 Making etched window artwork is really easy btw - if you can work a decent paint program that's all you really need. There is however a good cheat - you can get lots of etched meshes and grids for large scales and some of the square ones make fine window grids in smaller scale. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 Khris Think it's the following :- Miniature Building Construction; an Architectural Guide for Modellers By John Ahern ISBN-10 0852421923 ISBN-13 9780852426869 I've just ordered/reserved from our local library, but you can get it online. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted October 5, 2010 Author Share Posted October 5, 2010 Hi Chubber/Doug, Could you advise the name of the book you are using for the drawings please. Looking Reeeaaalll goood Khris Hi Khris, Dave's got it right there, thank you, Dave. Model Rail are to feature a Madder Valley article in the November issue which may well raise the demand for the book, so buy now! Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Making etched window artwork is really easy btw - if you can work a decent paint program that's all you really need. There is however a good cheat - you can get lots of etched meshes and grids for large scales and some of the square ones make fine window grids in smaller scale. Etched Pixels, Being Photo/Paintshop illiterate, is there a how to guide on this site. And where is the cheat? khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Thanks Dave and Doug, Much appreciated. My Model rail will arrive about Jan 2011. Khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smyles1 Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Wow! Brilliant structure modelling. When at exhibitions I always look closely at the buildings and wish I could achieve the high standards shown. Unfortunately I know I cannot achieve the standards I would like! Must try the Scalescenes methods you have used. Thanks for inspiration, Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Etched Pixels Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Etched Pixels, Being Photo/Paintshop illiterate, is there a how to guide on this site. And where is the cheat? khris Humm my post seems to have evaporated. Lets try that again People like scalelink sell mesh at various sizes (1mm/2mm etc) so you can buy a sheet of etched mesh with the right spacing for your windows and cut sections of it out, paint them white and stick the glazing behind. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Hi Khris, Dave's got it right there, thank you, Dave. Model Rail are to feature a Madder Valley article in the November issue which may well raise the demand for the book, so buy now! Doug Thanks Doug. I have just ordered on Amazon for GBP3.48 plus GBP7 P&H. Etched Pixels, Thank you for your info as well. Khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Doug - I have to say that I think Mr Ahern would have been very pleased indeed with that model Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Hi Chubber Another execellent build. Are you gutters and downpipes commercial offerings or have you fabricated your own? Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 Hi Chubber Another execellent build. Are you gutters and downpipes commercial offerings or have you fabricated your own? Cheers Thank you, Jack and Campaman. Those are plastic, from the scrap box made up from little bits, probably ex-Peco, but I do have a work-round for larger, industrial sizes to avoid spending too many SLWTs [scottish Laughing Water Tokens] as shown below, namely 2mm BBQ skewers or plastic rod, little strips of cartridge paper dipped in PVA rolled around for 'joints' and little strips for brackets, for hoppers I use cut off drinking straws and plasticard discs cut with a leatherworkers punch as I can't seem to source these commercially. It can be done with 1mm for N gauge downpipes or OO sink drains etc. A little bull-sh$t 'plip' of PVA does the 'bolt'. Hope this helps, Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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