modelmaker87 Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 Hi Tone I see ( I think). The longer side of the bar is at the top, so that the bar is parallel to the base of the bracket? Have I got that right? Cheers Jim No Jim, unfortunately you 'don't got it'. The upper edge in the soldered together image is shorter than the bottom edge. Thus the angle 'foot' will tip upwards. Cheers, Tone Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 Tony - these may be of interest for signals - they were sent to me by a friend in California, as you can see they are tiny - the little yellowish dot in the centre packet marked "WHITE" is a single one out of its strip! He sent me some magnet wire to attach them with, but I don't have a small enough soldering iron at the moment! Thanks Jack, as it happens I've been using those small ones in the black packaging and they are very nice. They are smaller than the single multi-colour LED's Mike T fitted in the target board/shoroud assy for me and right now the larger multi colour jobbies annoy. The older LED's with the anode/cathode sticking out I no longer use, although the previous VY signals I made are all fitted with them. I can also say that none of those older ones has failed, so for the less than fine scale signal builders I would always recommend them but going down in all dims to achieve scale the smaller LED's your pic shows are the baby dolls to go with. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jim s-w Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 Hi tone Guess I'll have to wait for the later pics then Cheers Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 11, 2010 Author Share Posted October 11, 2010 Hi Guys, I started the detail of the base with the levelling/sight line adjusting pads. A couple of turnings, one with a thru hole the other with a stub. Jim, you're non the wiser with these two images but we're gonna get there. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 Tony, great stuff as always B) What do you use to turn parts that small? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 11, 2010 Author Share Posted October 11, 2010 Tony, great stuff as always B) What do you use to turn parts that small? Hi Pugsley, I turn the parts in a lathe. How's your 37 getting along...? Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 Hi Pugsley, I turn the parts in a lathe. I kinda guessed that, I meant what lathe/method did you use, particularly in the production of the small disc The 37 is coming on slowly - I'm in the process of the 3rd redesign of the bogie frame, but I'm happy that this is going to be the final version. The other parts are coming on well, 3 of the traction motors are assembled and the sideframes are almost ready for accepting the springs. I'm hoping that progress will be relatively rapid once I've got the final parts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 12, 2010 Author Share Posted October 12, 2010 I kinda guessed that, I meant what lathe/method did you use, particularly in the production of the small disc The 37 is coming on slowly - I'm in the process of the 3rd redesign of the bogie frame, but I'm happy that this is going to be the final version. Boy, your question is so close to the questions I used to have to answer in my college exams. OK, here we go. LARGE PART w/SHAFT 1. Turn major O.D. 2. Turn minor O.D. 3. Face miner O.D. to length. 4. Part off to stipulated width. See 5 & 6 as alt to op 4. 5. Rotate part 180 degrees and chuck on minor O.D. 6. Face off large diameter to thickness stipulated on dwg. DISC 1. Turn major O.D. 2. Drill center. 3. Drill hole. 4. Part off to stipulated width. Good to hear your progress with your 37. I'll be following it. HTH, Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 Thanks Tony B) B) I'm still learning this machining lark, so I like to try to find out how something has been done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 13, 2010 Author Share Posted October 13, 2010 Thanks Tony B) B) I'm still learning this machining lark, so I like to try to find out how something has been done. Anytime Martin, ask all the questions you like. Next time I turn these, if I ever do, depends who wants signals, I'll take a series of pix. Later, Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 13, 2010 Author Share Posted October 13, 2010 Hi Guys, Having turned the levelling pads or whatever Collis name them I fit the turnings into the foot. Once done I then fit the pair of angled lugs that are welded to the base angle foot. I use glue instead of a weld bead. Alternate view showing the NBW I glue in place. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 Tony it looks great, are you going to put the Square hole in the plate where the box section is welded to the foot ,as in the black and white photo you showed earlier? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 13, 2010 Author Share Posted October 13, 2010 Tony it looks great, are you going to put the Square hole in the plate where the box section is welded to the foot ,as in the black and white photo you showed earlier? Pete Pete, no, unfortunately. An omission/error of mine that I noticed after building all three leg assy's. The access is there to do it but the leg is solid and presents a difficult circumstance to make the aperture, although nothing is impossible. You've got me thinking about it though...!! Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 15, 2010 Author Share Posted October 15, 2010 Hi Guys, After making the plate I solder each leg to it then drill a hole thru both plate and leg for a rivet. I prefer to add a pin or rivet anytime I can in assy's. Pete H: Still thinking about that rectangular aperture... Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share Posted October 17, 2010 Hi Guys, Legs 2 and 3 fitted and all three legs riveted to the square plate. Jim SW. I shot this image specially for you to illustrate the 5 degrees we were chatting about earlier. The leg sits parallel and the feet are forced to a 5 degree angle. This angle will or should match the 8 or 12 feet deep piles the auger drills. Won't happen on VY as I believe the baseboard is too thin. Although Mike or Dave can confirm if when they install it, if they follow the prototype, as all good modellers should, and drill 3 piles into the baseboard. We shall see. Still thinking about what Pete pointed out...them rectangles. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 I understand what you mean about the 5° angle. I also understand what Jim means too (correct me if I'm wrong). What he is saying is that the 5° on the prototype is made by the feet themselves being made out of an acute none 90° (85°) fabrication and the square leg is then welded at 90° to the upright whereas you have made a 90° foot fabrication and made the 5° using a 5° mitred square section leg. Looks like you will have to bin it!! I personally feel that what you have done there is way beyond the call of duty and looks absolutely superb so what the matter. Cav Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
essexexpress Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 Nice to see someone attempting the modelling of modern signalling, the helical screwpile tripod is a marvel. To add some variety, how about an Aspin monopile? would be easy-ish to model, and they are common as muck. Also would like to see some Rowlescourt signals / gantries modelled, with their distinctive square post profile. I've got some designs for a Rowlescourt 3 track pinned portal, and although fairly plain I think it's a bit too much for my modelling skills. Anyway gents, keep up this fantastic work. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 Tony In your first post on this topic you showed a series of oblong brass tubes for mounting the signal and one as the main signal post, then later on when you showed the picture of the real tripod mount and in the last picture posted the signal has a round tubular post. What are or were the oblong tubes for? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold beast66606 Posted October 20, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 20, 2010 Tony In your first post on this topic you showed a series of oblong brass tubes for mounting the signal and one as the main signal post, then later on when you showed the picture of the real tripod mount and in the last picture posted the signal has a round tubular post. What are or were the oblong tubes for? Pete The prototype signal, which was also changed to have round posts Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 ok Pocoyo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 21, 2010 Author Share Posted October 21, 2010 Tony In your first post on this topic you showed a series of oblong brass tubes for mounting the signal and one as the main signal post, then later on when you showed the picture of the real tripod mount and in the last picture posted the signal has a round tubular post. What are or were the oblong tubes for? Pete Hi Pete, In my first post I wrote "FWIW the image attached shows this rectangular post, unfortunately after having made it and moving on to other areas of the Dorman design I was told that Dorman did not get the contract and it was back to the 'standard' round post at 6 inches diameter." But since I put a good few hours making this telescoping rectangular post, I decided to post its image, more to sart off the thread. The outside casing of the telescoping part has to be scratched, wasn't simply a purchase of two rectangular tubes that conveniently fitted one into the other. I see the Dasman answered your question before me anyway. Fancy avatar there Dave, what's the occasion...? Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold beast66606 Posted October 21, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2010 I see the Dasman answered your question before me anyway. Fancy avatar there Dave, what's the occasion...? Pocoyo is a cheerful character, just like me Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 21, 2010 Author Share Posted October 21, 2010 Nice to see someone attempting the modelling of modern signalling, the helical screwpile tripod is a marvel. To add some variety, how about an Aspin monopile? would be easy-ish to model, and they are common as muck. Also would like to see some Rowlescourt signals / gantries modelled, with their distinctive square post profile. I've got some designs for a Rowlescourt 3 track pinned portal, and although fairly plain I think it's a bit too much for my modelling skills. Anyway gents, keep up this fantastic work. Mike Hi Mike, not sure where you're going with this so be nice for me if you would explain more clearly. The reason I ask this is that Widnes Vine Yard layout is very close to prototype, at least in terms of the items located on the layout are accurate for its era and positioned as close to prototype as modelling compression and compromise permits. I don't know much about signals nor trains for thast matter, I rely on David S and Mike T to provide me with the info to make their models, would those signals you mention look correct located on a layout such as WVY...? Or another style layout. Are these you mention British or used in another country..? I have no idea if I have seen the signals you have mentioned, they sound pretty cool. Whatever they be I know I could build them, but I have to have the information and is why I'm interested to learn more about your mention of these different designs. I tell anyone who asks me to build something for them that if they want a detailed model its up to them to provide me the details, the more details they procide the more they get in the model. So far David S & Mike T have provided me the most and best information that allows me to build the signals for them to the level of detail that I do. So post some images on here of those you have, details, not just a signal post in the distance taken from afar. I'd love to see them. Take care and be safe down by the tracks. Btw, have you seen the other signals on VY layout. If not I think Dasman can point you in the right direction, he had a thread on them somewhere on RMWeb. Glad you are enjoying the thread, well, I sure hope you are.... Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 21, 2010 Author Share Posted October 21, 2010 I understand what you mean about the 5° angle. I also understand what Jim means too (correct me if I'm wrong). What he is saying is that the 5° on the prototype is made by the feet themselves being made out of an acute none 90° (85°) fabrication and the square leg is then welded at 90° to the upright whereas you have made a 90° foot fabrication and made the 5° using a 5° mitred square section leg. Looks like you will have to bin it!! I personally feel that what you have done there is way beyond the call of duty and looks absolutely superb so what the matter. Cav cav and Jim, take a look at this... Cheers, Tone Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 cav and Jim, take a look at this... Cheers, Tone I agree that the drawing has the feet at 90° and the SHS is mitred off at 5°. However on the real base (photo attached) it is clearly the feet that are an angle fabricated from welded plate at 85° with the SHS attached square. Cav Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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