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Wirral Finescale Railway Modellers

Sound as a 170


beast66606

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  • RMweb Gold

Part 1 - fitting the speakers.

 

Note, this only applies to the non motorised vehicles, the motor has a metal chassis which requires far more work.

 

Speaker used = ESU/Loksound 50440, 16X25mm, 100 Ohms.

 

Find a position, I mount it between the side details, it fits perfectly.

post-6662-083821300 1286370068_thumb.jpg

 

Chain drill the location

post-6662-044942600 1286370093_thumb.jpg

 

After cleaning the hole, check fitting

post-6662-088567000 1286370142_thumb.jpg

 

The speaker wires can be fed between the seats to the end of the vehicle.

post-6662-083942600 1286370184_thumb.jpg

 

I use Heljan couplings to pass the power, they carry 4 wires.

post-6662-041803300 1286370224_thumb.jpg

 

The wires can be fed through a (drilled) hole in the floor and connected to the speaker wires.

post-6662-069492500 1286370279_thumb.jpg

 

This is the other end hence the change of wire colour ! (it's a 3 car 170 I'm working on here)

post-6662-044397900 1286370303_thumb.jpg

 

Part 2 once I get chance for some more photos.

 

hopefully have the decoders back soon and I can try the sound B)

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Interesting! :)

 

Can you give me a little more detail regarding the couplings you used as I have been trying to do something very similar to a class 159 unit, which will eventually get the sound unit currently installed in a class 158. I wanted to sort out the lights in the 159 before risking an expensive sound decoder!

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  • RMweb Gold

Do the couplings come apart easily for storing the coaches separately? Previously I was using a small mini plug but having the coupling and power all in one looks good. I'll assume as you are happy with it that close coupling is good too.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi guys,

 

I will take some more photos on Saturday.

 

The 158 is not so easy (the 2 car version anyway) as it needs the chassis milling out, we will be doing the 2-car 170 on Saturday and I will take some photos of the procedure, hopefully the smaller speaker will mean that not much material needs removing.

 

 

The coupling pushes together and then little hooks, one each side, are pushed down to lock it, it's not something that you would want to shunt with but for this type of coupling it's perfect - and something has to carry the power anyway !

 

Here's a link to them (on Kernow Models site, where I got mine from - with excellent service B) )

 

http://www.kernowmodelrailcentre.com/product/16357/850211_Heljan_Universal_Power_Coupler

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  • RMweb Gold

gonna have to get some of those couplings, would be ideal for my drs 20's and rhtt train so i can run them top and tail with sound at both ends, i can currently do it but have to fit jumpers between the locos and wagons which is a bit fiddly, they will also so do for my chiltern 165, i could use 2 wires for the lights and the others for an extra speaker in the dummy car

 

out of interest who's sounds are you going to be using?

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  • RMweb Gold

gonna have to get some of those couplings, would be ideal for my drs 20's and rhtt train so i can run them top and tail with sound at both ends, i can currently do it but have to fit jumpers between the locos and wagons which is a bit fiddly, they will also so do for my chiltern 165, i could use 2 wires for the lights and the others for an extra speaker in the dummy car

 

out of interest who's sounds are you going to be using?

 

Hi Jim (hope it's going well !),

 

I will let you know once I have heard it, at the moment he's new to us so I'd like to hear the sound before commenting publically (although the stuff I have heard is very good)

 

cheers,

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Hi,

 

Can I add one word of warning/advice regarding the 'power coupler'? (Speaking from experience!!!blush.gif)

 

When coupling these together either make sure track power is off or do it off the track and then lift it on once coupled. If you don't you will probably fry your chip!!

The individual contacts are very close to each other and during the action of coupling they do touch, hence the risk of a short.

 

I wouldn't want anyone to suffer the loss of a sound chip!!

 

Rob

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Hi guys,

 

 

The coupling pushes together and then little hooks, one each side, are pushed down to lock it, it's not something that you would want to shunt with but for this type of coupling it's perfect - and something has to carry the power anyway !

 

Here's a link to them (on Kernow Models site, where I got mine from - with excellent service B) )

 

http://www.kernowmod...l_Power_Coupler

 

Thanks for that, Beast. I have been trying out the mini multi-pin connectors but they do get in the way a bit. I just bought some items from Kernow; if i had known these couplings existed i would have ordered some at the same time. Ah, well, next order ...

 

:)

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi,

 

Can I add one word of warning/advice regarding the 'power coupler'? (Speaking from experience!!!blush.gif)

 

When coupling these together either make sure track power is off or do it off the track and then lift it on once coupled. If you don't you will probably fry your chip!!

The individual contacts are very close to each other and during the action of coupling they do touch, hence the risk of a short.

 

I wouldn't want anyone to suffer the loss of a sound chip!!

 

Rob

 

Hi Rob,

 

good advice, in my case I am only using them for speakers so I should be ok but I did notice they weren't 100% positive when being assembled so a very timely reminder for anyone who is going to us them.

 

Cheers

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Guest 838rapid

Have discovered on my 2 car 158 that there is a circle in the chassis which looks like its a casting mark.

 

Thats actually a plastic insert.

 

Managed to fit a bass enhanced speacker in there,which I had to remove the bottom section.

 

Have sealed it with Tack.

 

Might be worth a try with Micro speaker though.

 

Like the couplings too.

 

Cheers

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Hi Rob,

 

good advice, in my case I am only using them for speakers so I should be ok but I did notice they weren't 100% positive when being assembled so a very timely reminder for anyone who is going to us them.

 

Cheers

 

If just using them for speakers it should be fine.

I use one pair for the speaker and the other for the working door open lights, hence 'power' passing through too, so more chance of a short!!

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  • RMweb Gold

Part 2 - Some further progress was made yesterday.

 

The speaker position was marked

post-6662-017787000 1286712415_thumb.jpg

 

The chassis needs to have everything removed (apart from the motor) before the side cut bit gets to work.

post-6662-089878300 1286712416_thumb.jpg

 

Side frames are held on with four screws, two per side, in the corners.

post-6662-028668900 1286712418_thumb.jpg

 

Eventually it becomes an ACKD kit (almost completely knocked down)

post-6662-089387800 1286712419_thumb.jpg

 

The motor is wrapped in a plastic bag and the whole lot sealed with tape.

post-6662-066898000 1286712421_thumb.jpg

post-6662-090642300 1286712422_thumb.jpg

post-6662-021833200 1286712424_thumb.jpg

 

It's positioned on the machine

post-6662-071474300 1286712429_thumb.jpg

 

and the cutting commences.

post-6662-010673900 1286712431_thumb.jpg

post-6662-059911500 1286712432_thumb.jpg

 

until

post-6662-017171600 1286712435_thumb.jpg

 

Check the position.

post-6662-017171600 1286712435_thumb.jpg

 

A important step - thanks to Janet Rogers who made us these butties B) :D

post-6662-098586800 1286712437_thumb.jpg

 

Clean off any burrs.

post-6662-065399000 1286712439_thumb.jpg

 

The side details need a small amount of filing on the inside to stop them being bowed out by the speaker.

post-6662-033769400 1286712441_thumb.jpg

 

Job done (until part 3 !)

post-6662-096894000 1286712427_thumb.jpg

post-6662-086307700 1286712413_thumb.jpg

post-6662-096646000 1286712433_thumb.jpg

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  • 1 month later...
  • RMweb Gold

A 3-car and a 2-car 170 have now joined the roll call for Widnes - with sound.

2 x 153s are under way, detailing work is required to correct the "engine" fault (it's just a box !) but both have sound.

 

I have some ideas for adding more train sounds which I hope to investigate in the new year.

 

Get your "Widnes is a noisy layout" complaints ready for when we hit Ally Pally in 2011 :lol:.

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  • RMweb Gold

Dave,

 

Do you leave the speaker open to the track or do you put some kind of grill/cover over it? I would have thought that any magnet positioned like that and left open is going to pick up all sorts of crud that finds its way onto the layout.

 

Andi

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Get your "Widnes is a noisy layout" complaints ready for when we hit Ally Pally in 2011 :lol:.

 

 

If you are going to be at Ally Pally next year then I might actually start going to it again!:) Not bothered for a couple of years now.

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  • RMweb Gold

Dave,

 

Do you leave the speaker open to the track or do you put some kind of grill/cover over it? I would have thought that any magnet positioned like that and left open is going to pick up all sorts of crud that finds its way onto the layout.

 

Andi

 

Hi Andi,

 

I leave it open, not seen any major issues with debris, yet :unsure: - we generally hoover the layout before use, it may even be useful to find any lost screws etc. :lol:

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  • RMweb Gold

If you are going to be at Ally Pally next year then I might actually start going to it again!:) Not bothered for a couple of years now.

 

We are there with Widnes in March 2011 if that helps - we always welcome guest operators so if you fancy a go then .. (I will post nearer the time though !)

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