DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit

[Daddyman]

 

 

The protrusion between the splashers is part of the frames, with the firebox fitting between them.  (Hmph. Just when you want a picture of a dismantled 4-4-0 you can't find one...)

 

 

Sorry, but are you sure? I don't know Southern locos, but on the very similar Caley locos and on NER and NBR locos that's not the frames you see but a protrusion of some sort. And in fact isn't it possible to see on prototype photos of your loco that the part between front and rear slasher is further out than the frames? - you can see the cut-out necessary in the rear splasher which is not necessary on the front splasher. 

Edited January 22, 2018 by Daddyman

[Michael Edge]

As an illustration to Daddyman's question, here are some photos.

Firstly, the footplate with the frames soldered in place.  Easy to do in one piece, and strong.

 

IMG_2346 small.jpg

 

Secondly with the splashers etc on position, waiting to be soldered.

 

IMG_2341 small.jpg

 

IMG_2341 CROP small.jpg

 

A lot less work this way (as long as I can get the soldering iron inside!) and the whole thing stays rigid during the process.

 

Cheers, Dave.

 

That's the right way to do it, the full size splashers are fitted outside the frames. For narrower gauges (00 & EM) you just have to cut away the frame portion inside the splasher. In answer to the later comment about visible frames being wider between the driving wheels this is not so, what you see is usually a cover over the firebox slides. The firebox end of the boiler can't be fastened to the frames, it has to be on slides to allow for expansion of the boiler, only the smokebox end is fixed. 

[DLT]

Thanks Mike, that's put it better than I could.  Does that now make sense?

 

I found photos of a Schools having its boiler lowered into the frames a while ago, can't find it now!

 

Cheers, Dave.

[Daddyman]

Thanks Mike, that's put it better than I could.  Does that now make sense?

 

I found photos of a Schools having its boiler lowered into the frames a while ago, can't find it now!

 

Cheers, Dave.

If I understand him, I think Mike is agreeing with my interpretation: it's not the frames that you see, but a wider cover - hence the cut-out in the front of the rear splashers but not in the front of the front splashers. I think, looking at a drawing of a Caley Jumbo, the cover may cover an angle iron, attached to the firebox cheeks, which is free to slide on top of the frames during expansion and contraction. 

Edited January 24, 2018 by Daddyman

[DLT]

Yes, I see what you are getting at!  

[Nick Holliday]

The LSWR at Nine Elms - The Curl Collection, from KRB Publications has a series of views of an S11 under construction, which I suspect is very similar to a K10. Page 312 has a clear view of the boiler fitted in the frames, which probably answers your query, although I have to admit I haven't been able to fully understand the various points being made!

[Daddyman]

The LSWR at Nine Elms - The Curl Collection, from KRB Publications has a series of views of an S11 under construction, which I suspect is very similar to a K10. Page 312 has a clear view of the boiler fitted in the frames, which probably answers your query, although I have to admit I haven't been able to fully understand the various points being made!

Sorry for the confusion! My point was simply that: 

 

1. The tops of the frames are not visible between the front and rear splasher. 

2. The thing that is visible, often mistaken for frames, is wider (protrudes further into the footplate) than the frames. 

 

That was not the way Dave had it set up in post 1149. 

[DLT]

Yes indeed, I have now added the cover.  Sorry for the confusion!

Dave.

[Nick Holliday]

Sorry for the confusion! My point was simply that: 

 

1. The tops of the frames are not visible between the front and rear splasher. 

2. The thing that is visible, often mistaken for frames, is wider (protrudes further into the footplate) than the frames. 

 

That was not the way Dave had it set up in post 1149.

 

Sorry for being slow to see the point. I obviously had missed Michael Edge's succinct description of the situation. The coupling rod splasher on the larger wheeled types, such as T9 hides this bit, so it's not familiar. However, looking further through The Curl Collection I noticed that the 700 Class had boxes in a similar location, which I assume serve the same purpose. They are much more prominent, since the smaller wheels means there was a large gap between the middle splasher and the cab front.

[DLT]

I have at last soldered the splashers and cab to the footplate, so we have a complete assembly to move on with.

the etched boiler came pre-rolled, badly, so I've straightened it out a bit and run it through my GWmodels rollers.  Then comes the area with the most trial-and-error; bending out the firebox sides and fitting them to the cab-front and splashers.  This takes quite a lot of bit-by-bit bending and filing to make it fit.  No short-cuts!

The interior diameter of the boiler is approximately 18.5mm, but the etched discs in the kit which (I presume) are meant to be soldered inside the boiler are only 17mm diameter.  So I'm not sure whats happening there!

New discs are easy enough, I scribe a circle with a pair of dividers and then carefully cut & file up to the line.  I will probably then solder up the boiler as I did with the E5X, on page 36 of this thread:  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos-k10-from-a-very-old-kit/page-36

Cheers, Dave.

[DLT]

Boiler seems (at last) to fit, without leaning up or down, or pointing diagonally across the footplate!

Nest issue; the smokebox front "wingplate" is too small.  The curvature matches the smokebox WITHOUT the wrapper in place.  And no, its meant to go inside the wrapper.

So next job, new smokebox front.

Cheers, Dave.

[DLT]

As described earlier, the boiler needed lots of trial and error tweaking to get the bends in the firebox to fit. 

Dimensionally its really good; supported by the firebox sides and smokebox wrapper, the boiler sits horizontally and at the correct height above the footplate.

 

 

 

 

All that bending and filing felt worthwhile once everything mated up well, and without too many gaps.

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[Tony Teague]

So, remind me Dave, what proportion of kit parts - that were not already missing - actually fit and do not need re-making?

Not many, I imagine!

 

Tony

[DLT]

So, remind me Dave, what proportion of kit parts - that were not already missing - actually fit and do not need re-making?

Not many, I imagine!   Tony

 

More than you might think actually!  In the photos above, the bufferbeams, valences, frames and footplate are from the kit (although I extended it slightly) as are the boiler and smokebox wrapper.

Only the cab and splashers are scratchbuilt, along with the covers over the frames, and the boiler internal discs.

The kit could be built as it came and made a very nice model, but building a chassis from scratch showed up the dimensional issues in the bodywork.

 

Cheers, Dave.

[DLT]

The etched smokebox wingplate supplied with the kit was a bit undersized, and of a slightly dubious shape.  Fortunately Bradley contained a very nice front-on photo of a K10, and from a scan of it I cropped this picture:

 

 

I then printed it to scale size (or as close as I could) and used it as a template to mark out a new one, and compared to the one from the kit.

 

 

 

A disc of pcb that fits into the smokebox front has been fixed, this will locate the wingplate, and all will be Araldited together.

 

 

The front is still slightly oversize, and will be filed down once finally fixed.

 

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

Smokebox wingplate is fitted and shaped, boiler properly fitted around cab and splashers, and I've added the cab spectacles.  Initially I tried the etched versions from the kit, but they were a) too small in diameter, and b) so delicate that I couldn't get them off the fret without serious distortion.  So I've made my own, by the fairly simple method I described (in 7mm) on my Narrow Gauge thread a little while ago.  See this page:  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/35253-dlts-ng-workbench-new-hunslet-again/page-21

Obviously I've used smaller wire (.45mm) around a smaller former (4mm) and its ended up looking like this

 

 

 

Next job is the bogie, and this is my progress so far.

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[Daddyman]

It's going to be a beautiful loco - your finest hour, I suspect. 

[RAY NORWOOD]

Looking fantastic Dave, keep up the work

[DLT]

Thanks very much guys, things are never as simple as they seem at first.

And hard as I try, my modelling always goes in fits and starts.

Cheers, Dave.

[gz3xzf]

Excellent work as usual Dave, it is starting to look like not much from the kit is going to make it to the final model.

[DLT]

Thanks Bryan,

I'm trying to use as much of the kit as possible, but there are significant bits missing.  What castings that are present are very good, but I'm going to have to source a lot elsewhere.  Of the boiler fittings, there's a smokebox door and very nice brass chimney and dome, but that's about it. (there's a pair of clack valves, but they bear no resemblance to the prototype)  I think a call to Mr SEFinecast is needed, for the injectors and everything associated with them.  Possibly some cab fittings as well.

Cheers, Dave.

[DLT]

Er well, we have two bogie sides. 

I won't detail how they were done as I wouldn't recommend the amount of filing, fiddling and bending that has gone into it.

I think they look ok, but you're probably not going to see much of them when on the loco.

 

 

 

We'll see what they look like when fixed to a stretcher and have wheels attached. 

Quick note to self; be sure to use low-melt solder when attaching the stretcher, there's a lot of solder assembly in the sideframes, it would not be a good idea to melt it all again...

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[RAY NORWOOD]

I know what you mean using low melt solder, I have done that myself having to do it all over again. Looking good Dave.

[DLT]

For the centre stretcher of the bogie I needed a strip of brass 11.5mm wide, and a peice of left-over etch came closest.  Once filed to the correct width, I put two bends in it.

 

 

This then fitted between the bogie sides, with axles through the bearings to ensure accuracy.

 

 

Large blobs of 145 degree solder fixed everything together.

 

 

All I've got to do now is mount it on the loco.....

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[timbowilts]

For the centre stretcher of the bogie I needed a strip of brass 11.5mm wide, and a peice of left-over etch came closest.  Once filed to the correct width, I put two bends in it.

 

IMG_2407 small.jpg

 

This then fittede between the bogie sides, with axles through the bearings to ensure accuracy.

 

IMG_2406 small.jpg

 

Large blobs of 145 degree solder fixed everything together.

 

IMG_2410 small.jpg

 

All I've got to do now is mount it on the loco.....

 

Cheers, Dave.

Dave, whose wheels are those?

 

Tim T