N15class Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 I found when I modelled in EM gauge I put a fixed pivot on the bogie at about the rear axle and put a curved slot where the pivot normally went. This stoped the rear wheel on the bogie moving side to side. I generally found with a spring to push the bogie down and some side control, it remove the tendancy for the bogie wheels to hit everything. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted July 24, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 24, 2013 I found when I modelled in EM gauge I put a fixed pivot on the bogie at about the rear axle and put a curved slot where the pivot normally went. This stoped the rear wheel on the bogie moving side to side. I generally found with a spring to push the bogie down and some side control, it remove the tendancy for the bogie wheels to hit everything. Any chance of a pic of this or have you moved on since then? Thanks, P @ 36E (ex 72A) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Any chance of a pic of this or have you moved on since then? Thanks, P @ 36E (ex 72A) I will see what I can do about a photo, long time since I modelled 4mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted August 9, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 9, 2013 (edited) Well that's the S15 pretty much finished at last. There's always more that could be done, injector pipework under the cab for instance, and a bit more cab interior; plus its still awaiting its smokebox number-plate. I'm sure I'll get these done, but for now here's the photos. Definitely not a Silk Purse, but not a Sow's Ear either. A good working "layout loco" that will look quite at home pulling a mainline goods or semi-fast passenger. When all is said and done I'm pretty pleased with it, considering the starting point. It was never going to be fully accurate, but if I wanted to get to there, I wouldn't have started from here! Sorry there's so many photos, but I couldn't decide which ones to leave out! Cheers, Dave. Edited September 4, 2022 by DLT 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 The S15 turned out ok. It will look very good amongst the other Southern locos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted August 10, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 10, 2013 ...and today's shock news from Margate is....................... the release of the long awaited S15 in BR black with late crest..........(only kidding). That is one smart looking machine Dave. A really interesting build this and lovely finish; congratulations. Will I ever get round to doing my PDK version? Maybe if I get a layout to run it on. Who knows? P 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted August 10, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 10, 2013 Similar warning also applies to the MT detail etch for the Bachmann Maunsell Mogul. Most of it is usable, but the cosmetic frame overlays are a complete non-starter. Something seems to have been lost in translation either when the artwork was drawn up, or when it went to the etchers. Just catching up on this thread (love the S15, particularly with deflectors on).... I have a couple of sets of these MT Mogul detailing sets HT and, having looked at the side frames on the etch, was wondering how to proceed. Any advice HT? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted August 12, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 12, 2013 Thanks for all the comments and "likes" guys, all very encouraging. Looking at the loco again the cab now seems very bare compared to the rest; so it definitely needs some work. Please can anyone suggest where I can obtain a replacement backhead? This would go a long way towards improving the finish. I've trawled a couple of internet catalogues, but haven't found one listed yet. Thanks very much for any advice you can offer, Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 How about Southeast Finecast? The don't do an S15 but they have three different N15s, may be a good starting point. They do spares very reasonably. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted August 12, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 12, 2013 How about Southeast Finecast? The don't do an S15 but they have three different N15s, may be a good starting point. They do spares very reasonably. Thanks very much, I'll give them a try. Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted September 2, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted September 2, 2013 The U-Class and S15 have finally been delivered to their new Home Shed. I was actually quite sorry to see the U go, I think its one of my best efforts to date and I would like to have kept it. I have a couple of further SR loco projects up my sleeve, one is resurrecting and old part built Nu-Cast Adams A12 "Jubilee" kit, that came from a late friend's collection. Its a body only (the kit chassis is very basic) so it will probably be Gibson wheels and coupling rods, (and I think he does a frame as well) and most likely my usual Mashima/Highlevel drive. All helped on by my recent book purchase, "The Adams Classes" in the Bradley/Wild Swan LSWR loco series; the volume that has eluded me for several years. Cheers, Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 ..... I have a couple of sets of these MT Mogul detailing sets HT and, having looked at the side frames on the etch, was wondering how to proceed. Any advice HT? Just caught up with this. I think the only realistic way you can use the overlays is to split them into three sections, with each section centrally matching the hornblock / axle position on the Bachmann chassis. It's a shame, really, the rivet detail is neatly done, and I thought I'd be able to use them as overlays to really lift the excellent SEF etched chassis (which is correct). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Belgian Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 (edited) ...and today's shock news from Margate is....................... the release of the long awaited S15 in BR black with late crest..........(only kidding). That is one smart looking machine Dave. A really interesting build this and lovely finish; congratulations. Will I ever get round to doing my PDK version? Maybe if I get a layout to run it on. Who knows? P That's for next year, along with the 700 and Original Merchant Navy! JE Edited September 2, 2013 by Belgian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted September 2, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted September 2, 2013 ...and today's shock news from Margate is....................... the release of the long awaited S15 in BR black with late crest... That's for next year, along with the 700 and Original Merchant Navy! JE Story of my life! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted September 4, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted September 4, 2013 (edited) A first look at the Jubilee kit shows what are actually some very nice castings, rather poorly put together. As far as I can see, when comparing to existing drawings, it looks pretty accurate. I think Nu-Cast kits were considered pretty good in their day, and look to have stood the test of time. The chassis however is very basic by todays standards, and this is all I've got of it. Whatever else was included has disappeared. Here's a first; what I thought were large blobs and smears of Araldite holding everything together turned out to be Evo-Stick Impact Glue! First time I've ever come accross a whitemetal kit put together that way. The advantage of course is that it only took a couple of brushfulls of White Spirit around the joins and it all pulled apart after a couple of minutes. Thats all for now. Dave. Edited September 4, 2022 by DLT 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham_Muz Posted September 5, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 5, 2013 (edited) Hi Dave Nice job on the S15, although you didn't undertake to correct all the known dimensional errors i still think the results look good and certainly still captures the character of the original. I shall be interested in the A12 renovation, mine is below and uses a small Mashima with a Comet gearbox and small flywheel but the haulage capacity is not great so if your motor gearbox arrange achieves better results I might well follow suit. For my modelling period she should really be in unlined black but hadn't the heart to do it... Edited September 5, 2013 by Graham_Muz 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted September 5, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted September 5, 2013 Hi Graham, good to hear from you. I'm assuming (haven't checked yet) that I can get a small Mashima and Highlevel combination in the firebox driving on the rear coupled wheels. In which case I can fill in the missing bit of boiler underside between the splashers,and pack it with lead. Did you use the kit chassis as it stood? All the best, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham_Muz Posted September 5, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 5, 2013 (edited) HI Dave Yes I used the kit chassis, without going away and looking at the model again I cant remember off hand which axle she currently drives off I think its the front. I will check tonight if I get time. Edited September 5, 2013 by Graham_Muz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted September 6, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted September 6, 2013 Using the Highlevel Gearbox Planner, theres plenty of room for a 1420 Mashima in the firebox, attached to a RoadrunnerPlus or SlimlinerPlus on the rear driving axle, with the swinging arm folding back underneath. You might even squeeze a 1424 in. This leaves the front part of the boiler free, allowing the missing bottom to be filled in and the whole thing packed with lead. Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted September 9, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted September 9, 2013 Having spent quite a time cleaning glue off this kit (after soaking it in white spirit) I can upgrade my opinion of the castings from "very nice" to "excellent". The whole thing is very well thought out and executed, and the castings fit together beautifully; some even locking together. Cheers, Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvrnut Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Hi Dave, Have you made any further progress with this A12 ? I was looking forward to following this as I have an A12 to build . Cheers, Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted November 19, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 19, 2013 Have you made any further progress with this A12 ? Hi Chris, Yes, a little. I came up against a couple of problems that were NOT of the kit's making, more to do with the missing bits and some faulty replacements I bought in. I will be updating shortly though. Sorry for the delay, all the best, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted January 3, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2014 (edited) After rather too long a gap, the Jubilee build is up and running again! Having found various drawings of this loco, none of them showed exactly what I wanted, which was the frame dimensions. In the end I took a practical approach. I scanned the General Arrangement drawing and printed it as large as I could. The I drew around the outline of the mainframes with red ink, re-scanned the new drawing and printed it out at scale size. To actually make the frames I soldered two bits of nickel silver together, and stuck the appropriate part of the drawing to them. Then it was a matter of cutting, drilling and filing out the frames according to the red outline on the drawing. Hope all that's clear, this method isn't entirely accurate, but its pretty good, especially when you've got a complicated set up like these Adams underhung springs and equalising beams. As much of it is behind the wheels, the lack of complete accuracy isn't too great an issue. The axle holes were marked out on the frames properly, rather than relying on the drawing. The GA came from LSWR Locomotives - The Adams Classes, D.L.Bradley, Wild Swan. Cheers, Dave. Edited September 4, 2022 by DLT 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Looks like I will need to get my Bradleys over here ready for when I do my 7mm one. Your set of frames look good. I do like the sticking the drawing to the work method. You just need to make sure you have enough copies when you start as reprints are often a different size. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 A first look at the Jubilee kit shows what are actually some very nice castings, rather poorly put together. As far as I can see, when comparing to existing drawings, it looks pretty accurate. I think Nu-Cast kits were considered pretty good in their day, and look to have stood the test of time. IMG_3910 small.jpg The chassis however is very basic by todays standards, and this is all I've got of it. Whatever else was included has disappeared. IMG_3911 small.jpg Here's a first; what I thought were large blobs and smears of Araldite holding everything together turned out to be Evo-Stick Impact Glue! First time I've ever come accross a whitemetal kit put together that way. The advantage of course is that it only took a couple of brushfulls of White Spirit around the joins and it all pulled apart after a couple of minutes. IMG_3912 small.jpg Thats all for now. Dave. Dave From what I can remember in the 60's impact adhesive (Bostic, Evostic etc) was the recommended glue. Earlier than that I think a glue beginning with the letter D was used. The first Epoxy glue I can remember was Devcon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now