Upgrading old Hornby Class 37 to DCC?
Posted 23 October 2010 - 21:25
Also, I might be getting a class 25 later, and I will either go for a DCC model or get an older version off ebay, and convert if possible to DCC. Does anyone know if the older models can be converted as well? If not, then the newer model beckons.
Finally, (sorry to ask so many questions!), I am considering getting Ian Futers book on modelling Scottish Railways. I haven't found any reviews of this book, so could anyone let me know if the sample layouts in the book are just 1 or 2 pages of content, or something like Ullapool in the April RM this year (4 or 5 pages). The reason being is that I have a few books on layouts, and some are disappointing to say the least. Also, are the pictures in colour? (Tired of buying modelling books and finding black and white photo's from the 60's/70's)
Thanks for any replies.
Posted 23 October 2010 - 21:57
Posted 24 October 2010 - 07:07
With ref to your post on conversion of older loco's to DCC. I had the same issue some months ago. I have now changed 5 (5 to go!) of my 20yr old Hornby & Lima loco's to DCC. Playing on the safe side i fitted Hornby R8249 decoders and use a Hornby Elite controller, so far without any problems. Conversion is very simple as long as you take care with the soldering iron!!
To some the buying of DCC fitted loco's is (at present) prohibitive due to cost. So getting cheaper/older loco's second hand and fitting a Â£8.00(ish) decoder is a good option. Please note if your loco's do not run so well fitting DCC will not fix this. During fitting i've also cleaned motor's, bogies,running gear. On some this made a huge improvement.
The following sites are very helpful:www.brian-lambert.co.uk
Posted 25 October 2010 - 08:31
Posted 25 October 2010 - 18:33
The query reference Ian Futers book I will re-post on the correct forum.
Posted 25 October 2010 - 23:14
Is it worth retrofitting a Hornby 37? I reckon you could do it by soldering leads onto a decoder, breaking into the wiring between the motor and trailing bogie pickups and then wiring the motor into the decoder, and wrapping the decoder in heat shrink tube to stop it shorting out. I'm sure the relevant info is available on this forum. You would need to let us know which decoder you want to use so someone can help you.
I'm surprised to see you in this area of the forum?? I din't think you were interested in the 'dark side'
Retro-fitting an old Hornby Diesel is not difficult unless you mean an old Triang 37 with class 31 bogies?
Red & Black to the track, Orange & Grey the other way (to the motor). The other leads are all for functions, so insulate them...until you want to fit lights.
I always prepare to switch the leads around so the loco goes the correct way on DC & DCC so I leave the soldering iron on until I am happy with everything.
The suppression capacitor is no longer needed & it can have a negative effect on running.
As my Class 23 friend suggests, keep the chip insulated but not too tightly or the heat will have nowhere to go.
Posted 26 October 2010 - 11:33
However, ongoing develoment has now obviously changed these to normal DCC chips over the recent years.
I think the newest loco I have is an old Bachmann 03 - yes the one with the split chassis - going back with numerous old Lima & Hornby locos. These include a number of old 1960's Triang/Hornby loco's (08, 35's, 37, DMU, dock shunter)
Problems? No - these all work wonderfully once converted - from slow speed shunting to CV adjusted main line. I have the best decoders fro these old "models" (nothing like modern production) are TCS, generally the T1, or M2 for the smaller loco's as there are no/limited funtions required and they provide a good 1 amp output. As long as you follow the DCC golden rule - Isolate motor brush connection completly from the loco pick ups - remembering that the brush spring clip is "live to the pick up" so both arms need isolation, the only real issue is playing with the CV's for best operation. The older loco motors need more CV adjustment than the modern ones, as the out of the box settings tend to be too fine - I've fitted decoders to new locos for a friend, & these will run OK on the basic code 3 post fitting test!.
As others have said, DCC won't improve a badly running DC model - make sure you give it a good service first!
All I can say, from experience, is have a go & you'll be rewarded, as long as you're happy with a soldering iron & isolating the motor brushes.
Posted 15 November 2010 - 21:28
Just done one with a Hornby Class 37 DCC ready "railroad" chassis.
Which wires can I seperate from the pin-connector to use for soldering LEDs onto?
I would basically like directional red/white lighting, and an optional cab light.
I am using a standard four function Hornby decoder.
As I see it, theres the decoder, which is connected to the 8 pin plug, and a trailing purple wire.
I have scoured the internet looking for help.
I've seen a lot of wiring diagrams, but these don't seem to be helping me.
Any help would be appreciated; an idiot guide, or an actual photo of the wiring in the chassis would be great!