Jump to content
 

Lancaster Green Ayre - The Barn Owls have returned.


jamie92208
 Share

Recommended Posts

As the layout is set in 1923 it will be in all black.   I'm hoping that we have a warm enough afternoon to get some primer on it but will probably leave it till the spring to get the top coat done.  However I suspect that there will be some filler needed.

 

Jamie

 

This is probably our last week to do that for a while. I spray primed and etch-primed several things yesterday, and it took over an hour (instead of the usual 15 mins or so) for them to be touch dry, due to the dampness in the air, I guess. Luckily, I can then brush paint in the warm, but I would imagine spray paint in your shed is a non-starter right now, unless Mrs Jamie will let you use her dressing table?

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

This is probably our last week to do that for a while. I spray primed and etch-primed several things yesterday, and it took over an hour (instead of the usual 15 mins or so) for them to be touch dry, due to the dampness in the air, I guess. Luckily, I can then brush paint in the warm, but I would imagine spray paint in your shed is a non-starter right now, unless Mrs Jamie will let you use her dressing table?

 

You are a braver man than me Gunga Din.   I dare not even suggest such a course of action.  It's actually quite warm today.   I might have a go at the tender frames this afternoon.

 

Jamie

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Another few steps forward and 1 or two back.   The paint on the tender frames dried OK.   I did set off to do some more spraying yesterday but it never got warm enough.  I did however spend some time putting the wheels back on the tender frames and then soldering the brake harness on.   This caused problems as the tie rods interfered with the pick ups and also it is obvious that the cross beams are too long and the tie rods actually fouled the backs of the wheels.   I sorted this out by joggling the tie rods and shortening the pick ups. This is the result.

PC063860.JPG.cb012b9454a45146b17501e9364cf97d.JPG

 

Not elegant but hopefully it will still run OK  and not look too bad when hauling a train.   Today it started to warm up so I stripped down the loco frames and took off the motor and wheels and then cleaned it all up.   I had a go at fitting the springs and found that they fitted without interfering with the pick ups.   I had a go at fitting the ashpan sides but need to make some alterations to them.   

 

Jamie

Edited by jamie92208
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I got a bit of soldering done yesterday and got the lower firebox sides soldered on to the frames though I had to take the sandboxes off to do that.  I went back later and put the sandboxes back on only to discover that I'd got the frames the wrong way round and the firebox bits were below the smokebox.  That was corrected and this afternoon I put the sand boxes back on.  I also sorted out a few bits that had dropped off such as a lower step on the loco which had gone missing.  I made a new one from some scrap NS etch. Another step had come off the tender and that went back on, along with a lamp bracket from the loco. The loco is now ready for painting apart from the cab roof.   I'll clean and spray the frames but will leave the loco and tender bodies till it's a little warmer.

 

The big decision now is which kit to work on next.    I was going to do the other 2F but had a think and looked at the boxes on the to do shelf.   One stood out and it's a 1400 class 2-4-0 that I started from a  Shedmaster kit back in 2003.   I'd wanted one for many years but there was always an excuse about the tender not being right. I eventually managed to acquire the loco kit only and got a tender from Fourtrack.   I did quite a bit of work on it but it then stalled for various reasons.

 

Anyway today I decided that after the freight loco I ought to have another passenger loco and got 216 out and had a look at it .

This is what I found

20181209-2.jpg.fd32feb7715eb74b48d20a557fa4222b.jpg

I was quite amazed at how far I had got with it and that it had full working inside valve gear.

20181209a.jpg.19d0cdf0a93800d05a367cb678932ebc.jpg

I was even more pleased when I loosened the grub screw on the drive pinion and found that it pushed easily along the track with no binding.  

As a result I've decided to have a go at this one first.   I hope to make a start later this evening after watching Dynasties.

 

Jamie

Edited by jamie92208
  • Like 11
Link to post
Share on other sites

I got a bit of soldering done yesterday and got the lower firebox sides soldered on to the frames though I had to take the sandboxes off to do that.  I went back later and put the sandboxes back on only to discover that I'd got the frames the wrong way round and the firebox bits were below the smokebox. 

 

Jamie

 

 

Eight foot, eight foot 6 !

 

(Frozen) Bill

Edited by bbishop
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

The Jungle started after the wonderful Tiger programme, the sublime to the ridiculous so it was off over to the shed for me.   I made a start on 216, a Skipton loco for nearly 40 years.   I did some research during the afternoon and found that it was actually the last 2-4-0 to be withdrawn.   Fortunately one 2-4-0 has been preserved but it's not one of this class which was known as the 1400's from the pre 1907 number series of some of the class.

 

Learning from my mistake with 3182 I started by adding some weight to the boiler.   I blu tacked up one end where I had tack soldered a former that the boiler was rolled round.  I also blu taK'd the pre drilled holes that will take the dome and safety valves.

PC093871.JPG.bdfd6249b403eb333c0c628d92d9fa82.JPG

Then it was propped on it's firebox end and some lead shot that I'd been given was poured in followed by some matt varnish.   This will be left to dry for at least 48 hours.

PC093875.JPG.c93116bbbc535ad655a27bb336220f9e.JPG

Not a very good photo I'm afraid but it sort of shows what's going on.   I hope that this doesn't make the centre of gravity too high.   

 

Then I set off to add some details to the tender and soldered on three axle boxes and 3 springs, though I did tickle one spring hanger with the tip of the soldering iron and ended up with a little puddle of white metal that I had to scrape off.  I'll try and replace it later with a bit of brass.

 

PC093872.JPG.d00b1a2b0337011251c1d4891d8be94e.JPG

It's nice to make a re start on this loco which with it's lovely curves is rather elegant.

 

Jamie

 

Edited by jamie92208
  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Premium

Not a lot to report on the modelling front as various festivities have got in the way plus a trip across the channel to visit the family.   However all is not lost.   This morning I was able to call in at Hobby Holidays for various modelling supplies.   On Saturday and Sunday we were up in Leeds and No 1 daughter brought along a bag of post that had been delivered to her.  As well as a new gearbox for my Union Pacific 4-8-4 (No they didn't run through Green Ayre but rule 1 applies) there was an envelope from Guilplates which had some lovely little things in it.

PC243883.JPG.e431d35000a22e0ee1358522f4f030e1.JPG

The finishing touches for plenty of things in boxes.

As well as these.

PC243884.JPG.c96495f2e82d43e3b34efdf125649eb9.JPG

Again I plead rule 1.

 

Happy Christmas to everyone.

 

Jamie

 

Edited by jamie92208
  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Happy Christmas to you and yours.

 

Stewart

 

And the same to you Stewart.   At some time today I might even get chance to inspect my main present which is a Unimat 3 with various attachments that we picked up at the weekend from a friend.   

 

Jamie

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Happy New Year to everyone. Modelling hasn't come to a complete halt though it has been rather cold.   However as various things started being watched on the telly I've braved the cold and had a go over the last two nights. I've started with the tender for 216.   I've been adding details, mainly in white metal.   Tonight I couldn't get the paraffin heater to work and it was cold but not actually freezing.   The first job was to cut and file some brass for the coal space divider as that isn't in the box.   My 60 watt iron wasn't warm enough to allow me to use normal 220 solder but I managed to attach it with 145.   The iron did manage to tin and then attach the WM parts with low melt.   The soldering isn't particularly pretty but will clean up.   I got the coal rails on and also after a but of research found that 216 had a tender with the air vents for a water scoop.  The positions of these were marked out, drilled and they were fitted.

P1063917.JPG.95a21a089ca0917677003d47fb182593.JPG

This just leaves the handrails above the front steps, the lamp irons, the handbrake and the water scoop handle to fit.

 

That's a start.   The lead shot in the boiler seems to be secured with the varnish so when I start on the loco, the boiler will be soldered to the footplate,   I need to find my larger soldering irons for winter work.

 

Jamie

 

Edited by jamie92208
  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Good moaning from the Charente. The temperature has risen slightly to a balmy 8 degrees so last night I ventured over to the shed to try some soldering. My main task was to try and attach the boiler to the footplate and cab on 216. The first job was to tidy up the smokebox laminations which were separating at the base. I followed Mark's (Shez's) tip and had bought some solder cream from Hobby Holidays while I was in the UK at Christmas. After cleaning up the areas that had de laminated , a small amount of cream was injected, clamps were applied, then heat and hey presto, they stuck together.

P1143922.JPG.6982b73b2b00681dd6fd23e7ffbc9326.JPG

 

You can see them here. I didn't quite get the whole area sorted but am happy with the result.

 

Then it was time to attach the boiler to the cab, there was a nice half etched line to locate it and I first of all tack soldered the crown of the firebox, then tacked the smokebox wrappers to the splashers. Then I worked my way round the rest of the firebox and the rear splasher from the inside. I was very happy with the result.

P1143924.JPG.40eb74467532ac46210b20533c28c1b6.JPG

 

 

I had roughly trimmed the bottom of the firebox wrapper to fit the splashers but will now give this area some attention with the Dremel and cutting disc.

P1143923.JPG.fe3aa73945ed76a8f1e7d1a06969fbc3.JPG

 

Hopefully I'll be able to carry on this afternoon. I need to fabricate some rear splashers to go inside the cab. They aren't square like the ones on the 2F but follow the curve of the wheels. I'm sure that the etches would have been in the kit but seem to have got lost. I will hopefully enjoy the exercise and report later.

 

Jamie

Edited by jamie92208
  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I've been asked elsewhere about the baseboard construction and the leg system that I use. One of the things that I learned from Long Preston was to try and have the legs attached to the baseboards so that bits don't get forgotten. I'm not a fan of separate trestles but if they suit other people so be it. I went for self locking integral legs. There are 27 boards in all. 6 of them are king boards with two pairs of legs so that to erect the layout they are put up first. This is very easy. Put the board on the floor face up with the leg catches released. Ten with two people just lift the board and the legs drop down and lock. Simples as Sergei would say. The other boards cantilever off the king boards. They are erected in sets then the sets are bolted together. The final two that link the front and the fiddle yard have no legs and get called queen boards. Realistically it helps to have three people to slot them in but I have done them on my own with the help of a Workmate.

 

 

Anyway how are the self locking legs made. First of all the leg frames are built away from the layout. These were all done for me with mortice and tennon joints by a good friend. 5 flap hinges per leg are needed. The first two hold the leg onto the end frame of the board but positioned inside the frame so that they are within the board when folded.

P3318535.JPG.38f856620bdc9d83281735eaad50dc7d.JPG

A block 2" deep by 5" square was then glued and screwed under the centre of the board. The distance from the centre of the leg crossbar to the edge of the block is then measured. On the board that I photographed had a convenient cross bar in the right place. 2 more flap hinges were then screwed to the two crossbars in alignment.

P3318536.JPG.51bbb4c14c0ebc76f917893dfb13bd86.JPG

 

The piece of wood was then checked for length.

P3318537.JPG.18cb170bcfb4f755dd71bb3432287f0d.JPG

The wood is then turned over and a flap hinge screwed to the centre.

P3318538.JPG.13858af3e157f62a922f924fde7210da.JPG

This is then turned over and a tennon saw cut made on the centre line of the hinge.

P3318539.JPG.2c423313e8fdb29ae4f2398a52e7bad8.JPG

The crossbar was then screwed to the pre installed hinges at the ends.

P3318540.JPG.f885ed69da192eab1ab588d78b21b50a.JPG

The leg then folds down easily within the board.

 

 

Hope that this makes sense and that readers will forgive the historical essay.

 

Jamie

P3318542.JPG.4d7dc6f980376d7f37cd356c3013409a.JPG

 

 

P3318541.JPG

Edited by jamie92208
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Another sunny day so I got away to the shed to escape the reports from the Westminster Kindergarten. Yesterday I had found apiece of brass that covered the front of the smokebox, cut it roughly to shape with tin snips and then soldered it on and cleaned up the result. By chance it was a bit of scrap from the 2F kit with the Mercian emblem on the back. At least something useful came off that etch.

P1153925.JPG.b9935743908616074f7bf345ac070961.JPG

I also cleaned up the soldering at the base of the firebox sides. I also found out that the cab splashers were already in the kit and soldered in. Silly me.

 

Today I continued with various jobs. David Hunt had very kindly supplied some information about the way the boiler backhead is mounted within the cab. I therefore set to work to reduce the width of the backhead casting on it's lower part and then trial fitted it in the cab between the splashers.

 

I then cleaned up the brass safety valve and dome castings, which are lovely. The safety valve cover was soldered on and cleaned up then the dome was tacked on. I looked hard for a chimney of the correct style but couldn't find one. The drawing shows a 3'2 " chimney with capuchin and the one I've got is another lovely brass casting with a 3'7" one without capuchon. I'll have to do some more digging to see which one is correct for 1923 with the B boiler. Anyway this is where I got to.

P1153926.JPG.137d048919cba09befe924c4cd12d6c4.JPG

 

Not a lot on the agenda for tomorrow so I might even make some more progress.

 

PS.

The apparent off centre gap below the smokebox front will be completely covered by a white metal casting. I do need to make some small rivetted plates to go on the lower smokebox sides where it joins the footplate.

 

Jamie

Edited by jamie92208
  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Another couple of days and a bit more progress. This afternoon I spent a couple of hours in the shed. The first job was to finish soldering the dome on by running a fillet of solder round the base. Then the cleaning up had to start. After that I spent some time adding the smokebox door and then the valve chest cover and the two plates either side of the smokebox base. These needed rivets (6 each side from photos are the same height as the valve chest cover. I had a look through all the spare etches left over from Greyhound Bridge and found a strip with no rivets punched out and no fold lines. I think that they were part of the girders that strengthen the piers. The rivets had been half etched at close spacing so after a bit of measuring I punched outa length of about an inch doing every other rivet. These were then cut to shape and filed before being soldered to the base of the smokebox wrapper using solder cream. They project forward of the smokebox to cover the sides of the valve chest. This was then soldered between the projecting ends and they were then filed to shape. I was quite pleased with this.

 

P1173928.JPG.3eba705d449a0c2fdf1fe22724357c0b.JPG

 

 

The only downside was that I filed off the ends of the valve rods. I should be able to sort that out though.

 

Next up is the front axle springs, which are above the running plate. There are some nice brass casting for these but they need a little bit of alteration with a drill. That will hopefully be tomorrows job.

 

Jamie

Edited by jamie92208
  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

A bit more progress today. The Furness Lubricators were fitted to the smokebox lower sides. My main achievement was fitting the front springs. These have hangers which are separate brass clevis castings. Both the clevises and the springs have been cast with protruding rods. These had to be filed off then carefully drilled out to 0.7mm to take some brass rod so that the clevises could be hinged on the springs. I was very pleased to do this without breaking a drill bit. The footplate was then marked out and 2 1.2mm holes drilled to take the hangers. The assemblies were then soldered into place. The front end is coming on. This evening I've been researching the way the ejector is mounted on the right hand side of the boiler. It appears that the supplied casting is far too large so I'll have to go on another hunt through the spares boxes. The clack valves will be next and then I've got to decide how to make the large handrail that feeds the ejector and it's four handrail brackets. I've got some 1mm tube somewhere but no large handrail knobs. Another furkle in the various boxes of bits will have to be made or possibly I'll fire up the Unimat and see if I can make some.

 

 

Jamie

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

And a bit more progress tonight. It's a bit warmer but damper so I got an hour or o in the shed this evening to escape what was on the goggle box. First off was the clack valves. these were drilled, nice brass casting and some 1.5mm copper wire soldered in. The necessary holes in the boiler and footplate were drilled the copper wire bent and they were soldered in place. The front end is starting to look quite "Busy".

P1193929.JPG.11e189e67c3681a7febfec9b431c678e.JPG

P1193932.JPG.95e4312745ccde4aba80b2eddb6d51cf.JPG

I also searched all the bits boxes for an ejector of the right type but with no success. More research was done this evening and I'll be sending an order to Laurie Griffin in due course. I've been told that the chimney and handrail knobs are in the post so the next job will be to put pilot holes in the boiler for the handrails. After that I will work on the backhead and cab interior. Post here seems to be a little delayed. We got a Christmas card yesterday posted in Leeds on 20th December so I won't hold my breath.

 

Jamie

 

Edited by jamie92208
  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...