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Andy Siddalls Easy-Build Workbench


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I ordered a bundle of Slaters brake shoes today, although I have not seen a piccy of them from the description the nice lady at Slaters gave me they sound about right :blink: who knows.....well I will in a few days!

 

 

 

Hi Boxbrownie

 

Any joy there with those Slaters brake blocks. Got the same issue with my Cravens 105 and am looking myself for something suitable for representing the brake gear.

 

Cheers

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Hi Tim, yes they are coming along now, in fact last night I had a few hours in the shed putting hangers on the shoes......all 32 of them! These 6 coupled chaps don't know how lucky they are :lol:

 

I will try and post a piccie this weekend. I also need to get some brass tube to fabricate the actuating rods across the bogie....I picked up a load of plastruct the other evening and forgot the brass tube :angry:

 

Oh yes I used the standard slaters brake shoes...not the "early GWR type".

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Yep, Bristol is my local show so very much looking forward to it. Got quite a few queries regarding the Class 105 I'm building to talk over with the Easybuild guys. Brian Daniels demonstrating and lots of lovely trade (though I have promised not to come back with any more kits.......well we'll see ;) )

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I'll be stopping by the Easy Build stand for a chat and tips. Not made much progress with mine as I need to pick up drills and other things to build it from Eileens Tools stand.

 

So the clue to find me is lots of tools, drills, glue from Eileens and arms full of goodies pre ordered from Tower Models. Then there is all the impulse buys as well. Of course SWMBO said I can have all this.......not. :lol:

 

Thank god my apartment is only ten minutes away to store things before drip feeding it into my home far west. ;)

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I was beavering away late last night in the shed and managed to finish off bonding hangers to the brakes shoes and drill the holes for the actuating rods and shoe retainers, I decided to use 16BA nuts and studding to represent the genuine article, unfortunately 16BA is as small as I could find easily I think they should be more like 18 or even 20BA but then I would need a bloomin' microscope to fit those :D

 

Anyhoo a cruel enlargement of one brake fitted temporarily to check clearances, all seems fine and the brake is actually sitting in line with the wheel tread and not like it looks in the piccy!

 

I think once they are all fitted and weathered they should look quite a nice improvement over the supplied parts.

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To the left is the Slaters sprue with the standard shoes, some are fully moulded the rest are half moulded and need to be doubled up to make a full shoe, not sure why Slaters do it like that, but I guess there is a logical reason :blink:

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David - Nice work with the brake blocks!

 

Unfortunately, it had me trawling Fotopic/Flickr again and it appears that motor cars had the hanger type arrangement as you have modelled, whereas trailer cars (certainly for Cravens units anyway) had a simpliifed arrangement see http://dennistaylor..../p66120742.html I'd have happily modelled the trailer car arrangement for both my cars as this was my reference picture!

 

Hopefully, my brake blocks will arrive from Slaters earlyin this week and I can get cracking.

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Tim, you got me wondering now :blink: the only reference pictures I have show hangers on all brakes but they are all power cars, even two coupled units!

 

I am now searching around for undeframe pictures of the 108 trailer car....although it appears these were sadly missed by the papparazzi, seemingly they preferred taking piccies of the power cars......a good job I have not fitted all the brakes just yet.

 

Anyone who can point towards piccies of a 108 trailer car will be amply rewarded...............sometime by someone probably :D

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I still have not been able to find a clear piccie of a 108 driving trailer bogie, but plenty of other classes I have seen do in fact have no drop hangers and just rely upon hangers ending at the brake shoe pivot....I guess as there are no cardan shafts and gear hanging between the bogies they don't either need to lower the actuating levers or need quite as much brake force (the trailer being about 7 tons lighter). These are theories of course.....due to the lack of facts :D

 

I believe the underframes were all pretty much a standard design so your probably correct Tim, the 108 may indeed have no hangers on the trailer car.

 

Looks like I will be "trimming" half the hangers down a bit....still need to leave them attached though as they need the thickness to look correct and take the cross bars.

 

Who went to Bristol.....what did'ya buy? :(

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Me, I went to Bristol and buy things I did. Tools to build the 108. Drills, nuts, glue for glazing and other assorted items.

 

Also Track, head an tail lamps and lots of other small goodies. And a bogie bolster wagon which I thought was a bargain.

 

But had a good chat with the main man himself, Brian the O gauge diesel builder king and I do like his coupler modification on a 33. He has fitted a Kadee buck eye which looks good and could well work a treat as well. I want to fit them to my stock and his method is ideal.

 

Also had a good chat with Mr South West Digital as well about programming sound decoders for use with RR&Co and a meet will take place soon to make a meeting of minds and see what comes out :lol:

 

Good chat as well with the helpful people on ABC Gears stand as well as a stop by Easy Build to see what the 108 should look like when I've finished mine. :rolleyes:

 

And then in the next ten minutes....... Brilliant show, well worth going too.

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Dave, when you put a thread on the spigots on the bogie sides to take the 2mm nuts, did you reduce the diameter of the spigots at all. I got the die and nuts today to do the same, seems to make sense to do this.

Nope...they threaded fine as they are....you got to be careful of course they are very short spigots and it would be easy to damage the thread whilst the die is on them, also the nuts cannot be tightened too much but just enough to be secure then a blob of cyano to lock them.

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Thanks Dave. Being away from home and not having the things in front of me to play with makes having feedback like this helpful and it means I don't have to think about getting additional tools etc ready before getting home and starting. Thanks again.

 

One thing I forgot to add about talking to Easy Build at the show is that they are talking about laser cutting certain parts on mouldings to reduce the number of tasks that us modellers will have to do. Whilst nothing very specific was mentioned, more of a general comment, windows seem to be under his finger as he pointed to things on the cab front and sides.

 

So it looks like the kits are still evolving and for the better too. :D

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One thing I forgot to mention was that you have no need to use the handle on the die when cutting the spigot thread, the plastic is soft enough just to cut the thread hold the die by hand, in fact if a handle were used I am sure it would damage the thread.

 

As for the laser cutting I did notice in the instructions that it mentioned cutting back parts of the roof moulding, where as on my kit the roof has already been "cut back" in those areas, so I guess the kit is indeed progressing for ease of build (although I do not think this part was actually laser cut).

 

One thing that has always bugged me about kits in general is the quality of the metal casting, or not so much the quality as the limit of the finish that is possible using metal casting, when compared to plastic moulding of the same size the surface quality of the metal casting usually looks terrible and needs a lot of finishing. I wish more smaller parts were produced using plastic injection moulding.

 

This is not a criticism of Easy Build parts, I just find all metal castings to be....well basically...a bit naff. I still remember the extremely clean and fine detail I used to get on plastic kits.

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Hi David, yes, I had intended doing the threading by hand as die holder is over kill and as you say it would more than likely damage something.

 

As for your comment about the quality of metal castings, I was having a similar conversation with the gang on the DEMU stand at Bristol on Sunday about the general quality of kits in general for the price that is paid. As you say, not aimed at Easy Build so much but having seen a few JLTRT kits recently and the very poor quality of their kits for the price, it really does confirm that its the skill of the kit builders that makes them in to a quality end product and not the kit itself.

 

One of the guys was building a JLTRT 37 and as he said, the amount of work he had to do to make the parts fit together is excessive. Using filler to correct basic moulding faults on a £400 plus kit is scandalous. Pete Waterman for all his our kits are just like the real thing may like to address these problems.

 

Perhaps they do replicate the construction problems of the real thing but if I'm going to pay a high price for a kit that is made up of what could be described as sub standard parts, I would like to see a price reduction to match the quality. Airfix make a better kit really than JTLRT.

 

Rant over, back to the 108 and Easybuild. Nice people, very nice people. :)

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Hmm, interesting as I have a JLTRT 40 in bits still here....awaiting time to start it! But so far the bogies and motor went together very well, and runs nice and smoothly. The body seems fine too, although I have only "test" fitted the parts, and the fine moulding detail is extremely good.....I will let you know if it need excessive filler (I expect to use some of course). Its the metal castings that bug me, some are quite rough and its almost a puzzle to recognise what they are :unsure: and as you say this appears to be the norm in or hobby, not sure our friends across the pond would put up with it as I have seen some of the micro detail castings for thier 3.5mm stuff and its incredably detailed.

 

Oh well...one day

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One of the guys was building a JLTRT 37 and as he said, the amount of work he had to do to make the parts fit together is excessive.

That was me :)

 

When talking to a couple of others about the same subject, it seems that the quality of the JLTRT mouldings is quite variable. One bloke I spoke to had built 3 of their 37's, of which 2 had gone together with hardly any effort, the 3rd one required a lot of work, like mine. I think I've just been unlucky, but it doesn't make it any less irritating!

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Hi Martin, I did not want to name you in case it caused problems. But even your comments confirms that the manufacturing process is not consistent and it should be for the high price we pay for kits.

 

Anyway, this is thread creep and I have to say lets stop it here and get back on topic. Sorry.

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I have a JLTRT Mark 2 BSO in the list of kits for me to build - one of the sides is OK, but the other is twisted in 2 planes. JLTRT have offered to replaced it all at their cost (the same when I wanted some extra seats), but advised I could try to twist it back into shape in hot water. So If you have a problem part/kit, it's well worth getting in touch with them. (The reason it's gone to the back of the queue of kits is that my air-con London service has been knocked on the head, so it's waiting for use on something else.)

 

Anyhow back to Andy's great build!

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