Ron Heggs Posted December 19, 2013 Author Share Posted December 19, 2013 I wonder what astonishing reality you might have achieved with your existing masterpieces, had this technology been available to you several years ago... Probably a little more detail, and accuracy not totally dependent on hand and eye coordination. A little more advanced in the layout build Ron 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
phixer64 Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 This, just gets better and better in my view, superb modelling. Whats next i wonder? Keep up the fantastic work Ron. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 The North and South Faces completed, except for rosettes in the lower part of the arches - North Face above the South Face 44 Rosettes in production 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Ron Absolutely stunning. When is the 3D printer coming ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 Ron Absolutely stunning. When is the 3D printer coming ? Hi, John One machine at a time - after all I am building a layout not a business The really quick answer is - when someone buys me one The latest DIY printers at around £500-600, sound ok for getting to grips with the process. But need to progress a bit further before being a reasonable priced everyday tool for producing precisely detailed rolling stock, and railside items Cheers Ron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Ron, I know that the bridge sides are intricate, but can you put something alongside so that we can judge the scale better. The cutter brings a new dimension to the build now, although you still have to have the skill and fore sight to generate the layers. Compared to using the etches that you were going to get done, do you thing it's as good as you could have achieved with them? (looks excellent to me!!) Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 Ron, I know that the bridge sides are intricate, but can you put something alongside so that we can judge the scale better. The cutter brings a new dimension to the build now, although you still have to have the skill and fore sight to generate the layers. Compared to using the etches that you were going to get done, do you thing it's as good as you could have achieved with them? (looks excellent to me!!) Dave Hi, Dave The North Face is 457mm long x 87mm high, and the South Face is 432mm long x 87mm high As the bridge building continues, I will place a locomotive on the bridge to give a better view of the scale Overall the styrene build is as good as would be expected with etches. The one area which is better for me is my experience with styrene versus the requirement to sweat large areas of brass to brass, which is something I have never had to attempt before The next part of the build is the bridge deck, which has to carry three tracks, including 2 turnouts, a diamond crossing and a double slip crossing Ron 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted December 22, 2013 Author Share Posted December 22, 2013 The rosettes were finally cut and fixed - Now that the cutter is available, the outstanding five underdeck beams for the CLC Deansgate Bridge were cut - The underdeck beams of the CLC Deansgate Bridge ... and are now ready with a few extra details for adding to the bridge whilst undergoing its modification with the additional gantry and signalling 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted December 22, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 22, 2013 The photo of the underdeck beams is that good I thought it was the model... Can this thread get any more jaw-droppingly great ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted December 22, 2013 Author Share Posted December 22, 2013 The photo of the underdeck beams is that good I thought it was the model... Can this thread get any more jaw-droppingly great ? I wish ! The present day clean-air allows white paint to be used to brighten the underside of the bridge showing detail that would have delighted Mancunians in those distant dark and smog ridden days It presents a challenge to model and then disappointingly dumb it all down with grey paint and grime Ron 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 (edited) Started on the GN Deansgate Bridge deck - The deck plating (40 thou) - just a little on the skew Nearside is North - 477mm, Farside is South - 422mm, Right is West - 282mm & Left is East - 336mm Underside view with deck support beams - 45 deg tapered ends A few beam webs (40 thou) laid out .... flanges (20 thou) to be cut and fixed, and the completed beams fixed to the deck plating more pictures later tonight Edited December 24, 2013 by Ron Heggs 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted December 24, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 24, 2013 Hi Ron The Cameo has certainly speeded up production, at least until you have run out of pre-prepared dxf files. Merry Christmas. SS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brass0four Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Merry Christmas, Ron, and all the best for the New Year. I look forward to further developments in you extraordinary venture. :-D Tony. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 A Merry Christmas to All Thank you all for continued viewing and comments, it's very much appreciated Cheers All the best for the New Year Ron 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted December 25, 2013 Author Share Posted December 25, 2013 (edited) The last three pictures for tonight - The underdeck beams completed The North Parapet spacers fitted to enable fixing of the trackside panelling, prior to fitting to the deck Edited December 25, 2013 by Ron Heggs 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNERGE Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 Redrew the circuit for the Theatre Display, and built the LED diode matrix circuit as a two layer stripboard sandwich - Matrix Circuit Diagram.png A much simpler circuit The row connections made on a 10 x 10 hole piece of stripboard, and the column connection made on a 5 x 10 hole piece, and no wired inter connections required The overall item size is approx. 26mm x 26mm x 13mm IMG_0332.png Due to the width/diameter of the resistors and LEDs they are offset slightly from one another IMG_0333.png The soldering is a bit naff, as the smallest soldering bit I have is a 4.3mm chisel bit. A 1mm taper bit is on order Yes, it all works as intended Still have to fit flying leads for the 12v supply and switches The fibre optics strands will be here this morning - ready to fit this evening 12 inch to the foot scale.. Redrew the circuit for the Theatre Display, and built the LED diode matrix circuit as a two layer stripboard sandwich - Matrix Circuit Diagram.png A much simpler circuit The row connections made on a 10 x 10 hole piece of stripboard, and the column connection made on a 5 x 10 hole piece, and no wired inter connections required The overall item size is approx. 26mm x 26mm x 13mm IMG_0332.png Due to the width/diameter of the resistors and LEDs they are offset slightly from one another IMG_0333.png The soldering is a bit naff, as the smallest soldering bit I have is a 4.3mm chisel bit. A 1mm taper bit is on order Yes, it all works as intended Still have to fit flying leads for the 12v supply and switches The fibre optics strands will be here this morning - ready to fit this evening 12 inch to the foot scale.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted December 26, 2013 Author Share Posted December 26, 2013 12 inch to the foot scale.. Ipswich Goods Jcn 002s.jpg Thanks for this prototype info. It would appear that the indicator was a 7 x 5 lamp display The lamp numbers refer to row and column positions for each displayed letter B, M & P e.g. 11 is row 1 column 1, and 75 is row 7 column 5, and so on Cheers Ron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grovenor Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 Thanks for this prototype info. It would appear that the indicator was a 7 x 5 lamp display The lamp numbers refer to row and column positions for each displayed letter B, M & P e.g. 11 is row 1 column 1, and 75 is row 7 column 5, and so on Yes, 7 row x 5 columns was the standard size, a two letter requirement would need two units side by side. A 7 x 7 version was available if numbers 10 - 19 were wanted, usually for a terminal approach. On the LM Region in the '60s we used parallel wiring with complex lamp proving to avoid risky partial indications. The series wiring shown completely avoids partial indications with the trade off that there are more failures although the example given above has not got lamp proving so failure of this one was not considered risky. Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelb Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 (edited) Hi, Dave That was my first option, but the challenge of soldering all those LEDs in such a tight array has been put on the backburner for the moment. A etched PCB would be needed to hold and supply the 35 LEDs and the associated leads Cheers Ron i wonder if instead of a pcb could you insert brass pins through a piece of paxolin and solder the surface leds to that ? the leads could then me soldered to the pins Edited December 26, 2013 by nigelb Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 i wonder if instead of a pcb could you insert brass pins through a piece of paxolin and solder the surface leds to that ? the leads could then me soldered to the pins Hi, Nigel Thanks for your input. But the 70 pins would need to be spaced at 1.2mm x 0.6mm centres on a 5 x 14 matrix, which could be a slight problem with my level of manual dexterity Cheers Ron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 Lineside panelling and flanges fitted to the bridge parapets. Parapets fitted to the bridge deck North face views- East end view- Underdeck view- GN Deansgate Bridge buttresses, brickwork support structure and bridge painting next .... and the CLC Deansgate Bridge beams 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brass0four Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Ron, do you EVER have an untidy bench? ;-) I sometimes wonder if the untidy minds/benches such as mine give rise to less than satisfactory work. Having said which, Gravy Train - who does excellent, professional, buildings and structures - does have a *chaotic work-surface very often, which b*ggers up my excuse! * I won't link to a photograph but they are in his Topics/Blogs which are well worth a visit in any case. But back to the point: would you feel very uncomfortable with a messy bench threatening efficiency? Tony. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 (edited) Ron, do you EVER have an untidy bench? ;-) I sometimes wonder if the untidy minds/benches such as mine give rise to less than satisfactory work. Having said which, Gravy Train - who does excellent, professional, buildings and structures - does have a *chaotic work-surface very often, which b*ggers up my excuse! * I won't link to a photograph but they are in his Topics/Blogs which are well worth a visit in any case. But back to the point: would you feel very uncomfortable with a messy bench threatening efficiency? Tony. Hi, Tony .... and the answer is YES - I have four work tables in the railway room, and the dining table when not in use for meals - Each one except the dining table is in an ever changing state of almost chaos The problem is I have at least five or six builds on the go at any one time plus two laptops with various drawings, etc. in progress The worktables are set-up for separate types of build i.e. card building and plastic work or small and large structures. However, some builds are multimedia and things stray just a little Painting and woodwork is restricted to my workshop under the drive Tools and waste bins are the only objects which are kept in a reasonable order Photography is kept to part of the kitchen worktop and the dining table The computers, printers and cutting machine do have a separate work table, but usually follow me around wherever my work is taking place My favourite work place, subject to SWMBO permission is the dining table which is right in front a very large (5.5m x 2.5m) south east facing picture window overlooking the valley - very good lighting - ideal for modelling You can guess where I am now Back to your point about efficiency - my modelling is about enjoyment - efficiency would be more appropriate to business, production and deadlines Cheers Ron Edited December 27, 2013 by Ron Heggs 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brass0four Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Hi, Tony .... and the answer is YES - I have four work tables in the railway room, and the dining table when not in use for meals - Each one except the dining table is in an ever changing state of almost chaos The problem is I have at least five or six builds on the go at any one time plus two laptops with various drawings, etc. in progress The worktables are set-up for separate types of build i.e. card building and plastic work or small and large structures. However, some builds are multimedia and things stray just a little Painting and woodwork is restricted to my workshop under the drive Tools and waste bins are the only objects which are kept in a reasonable order Photography is kept to part of the kitchen worktop and the dining table The computers, printers and cutting machine do have a separate work table, but usually follow me around wherever my work is taking place My favourite work place, subject to SWMBO permission is the dining table which is right in front a very large (5.5m x 2.5m) south east facing picture window overlooking the valley - very good lighting - ideal for modelling You can guess where I am now Back to your point about efficiency - my modelling is about enjoyment - efficiency would be more appropriate to business, production and deadlines Cheers Ron Thanks for that. And why am I NOT surprised that you covered the issue in detail. Soooooo... It's astonishing how a person can get stuck into a work-related mind-set. I tend to do most things on the one bench, and this is not necessarily due to lack of space - rather, habit. In this light I will consider the obvious options of varied work-stations for specific tasks. I think the telling factor, however, is LIGHT - can't have too much of it - well, unless it's blinding but that is just silly. Natural light is something I'm rather starved of, hence, back to the single bench. Even so, it is not beyond pocket or wit to upgrade the illuminations on to other areas.... And my PC is in a well lit area and need not be... Hmmmmmmm. Thanks again, useful as usual. :-D Tony. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheesysmith Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 As to requiring light to work by, I have found by accident a solution to the problem. I purchased a led lightbulb from Tesco's last year, that I use in my cheap table lamp. Then my son did break the opaque glass cover. The best bit is the light still works, and after removing the glass bits, I have been left with a VERY bright white light, perfect for modelling with. By bright, I mean it is painful to look at, but is perfect for lighting things indirectly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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