dajt Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 Very tidy build, and a great idea for the seat! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 I agree, fantastic seat! Did you use any sort of jig, or is it all by eye? The leather covering is brilliant! Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Boucher Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 The thread that started me on this that I mentioned previously about the PSD kit had reached the point where the author was trying to decide on when/how to put the partition and seat in - before or after painting. I had a similar but bigger dilemma with this kit in that there are no partitons or seats provided. The instructions suggest that the builder creates an inner floor and partition/seat from plasticard. While I am quite happy to do this with plastic based kit's I prefer to work in brass where I can so I made a couple of partitions from brass sheet, scribing the visible one to represent planking to match the outside. I also folded up a brass seat. These not surprisingly have made the body much more rigid and this along with a false floor also in brass has added to the weight quite considerably. To get around the issue of fitting before or after painting I have made the seat removable but held in place by the screws that hold the body to the chassis. the photo's should do a better job than my description. Next up is to add the underframe details. It's just resting on the W Irons in the photo's. Great work there. I've got to get back working on my GER horsebox, and these photos of your seat will really help me... Care to elaborate on how you got those nice flowing bends? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted September 24, 2011 Author Share Posted September 24, 2011 I agree, fantastic seat! Did you use any sort of jig, or is it all by eye? The leather covering is brilliant! Simon Hi Simon, I used a seat from a Slaters Midland all 3rd coach that is on the bench part built to get the basic sizes - by eye rather than anything scientific like using a ruler Great work there. I've got to get back working on my GER horsebox, and these photos of your seat will really help me... Care to elaborate on how you got those nice flowing bends? Hi Mike, I look forward to seeing progress on your GER box, I have a D&S NER horse box in the pile which will be my first D&S kit. I collected a few of Danny's 4mm kits but moved to 7mm before getting around to building any of them. In terms of getting the curves I used a 5" hold and fold and the shank of my scriber - gripping the brass in the hold and fold and bending over the scriber shank then using a small brass jawed vice to tighten up the fold a bit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted September 26, 2011 Author Share Posted September 26, 2011 I had planned to post an update last night but ran out of steam. The horse box now has it's roof on and I spent most of yesterday beefing up the rather flimsy brakes. By good fortune I bought a lot of etched kettle related spares from Mike Cole (Resseldar) and among them there were 16 etched brake shoes in Nickel which are a perfect fit (8 for this box and 8 for the Midland box should I need them). Once they were soldered to the brake shoes in the kit, I used scrap etch to strengthen the arms. I have also got one of the step boards on and again used scrap etch to strengthen the support straps for the lower step boards. I have also attached the brake cylinder and cross shaft - rather stupidly not adding rocking arm for the brake rods despite adding the one for the cylinder No photo's of the underframe fittings yet but hopefully later in the week. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davec.hh Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 Some impressive workmanship! I'm looking forward to seeing the completed horsebox. Best regards DaveC Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted September 27, 2011 Author Share Posted September 27, 2011 Very tidy build, and a great idea for the seat! Thanks Dave, sorry I missed this post when I replied earlier. Some impressive workmanship! I'm looking forward to seeing the completed horsebox. Best regards DaveC Thanks Dave, for such an old kit the body work presented few problems. The underframe has been a bit more challenging but enjoyable none the less. I too look forward to the finished article but not before I have had a bit more pleasure from it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted October 14, 2011 Author Share Posted October 14, 2011 The horse box is finished. it just needs painting and some of the lovely Gladiator cast screw couplings which should arrive tomorrow. Next up is another horse box, this one is a D&S kit for an NER Diagram 67 horse box. I have cut and cleaned up the cusps on all the major parts and I will start assembling them later this afternoon. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted October 16, 2011 Author Share Posted October 16, 2011 Some good news today, I received an email this morning from a very helpful Gent (Richard Dagger) in the S&D section of the HMRS giving me a couple of LMS running numbers for this horsebox. - By further good fortune one of them is the photo example that I have been working from. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted October 16, 2011 Author Share Posted October 16, 2011 Well here are a few shots of progress on the NER horse box. Still some way to go on detailing the sides. I have made the small observation door on either side sliding and I plan to put a basic interior in so that it can be viewed by opening the door. Sad I know but I do love the details. Since there was a lack of castings and I believe by LNER days it would have been dual braled until at least 1930 I have knocked up a semblance of a vacuum cylinder to go with the Westinghouse casting. I have also made a partition for the grooms compartment, I still need to make stalls etc. Sadly as I mentioned before there are no etches or castings to represent the quite distinctive door supports - I now describe them as supports as the more I look at different pictures I don't believe they were springs, more like rams that come to s top and support the door when lowered. Which means that I need to order some brass angle from Eileens to have a go at making them. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted October 17, 2011 Author Share Posted October 17, 2011 (edited) Having had a day off today, I spent it pleasantly scratch building additional details for the NER horse box sides. Both sides are now fully detailed (the door supports will be fastened to the chassis so I can remove the body for painting - although I may ultimately glue them once they painting is finished) next up is the end with the brake tell tale. In the style of fellow members I have made the door bolt working - shame the doors are not separate or I would have had a go at making them open too. Edited October 17, 2011 by Rob Pulham 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 Tonight I spent some time detailing the Grooms end with handrail and brake tell tale. I still have the other brake pipe work to add. I have to confess that I like the tell tale indicators so much I plan to make some for the S&D box. Each indicator is made from 2 x 4mm scale Markits crank pin washers, soldered together to give some depth and a slot cut in them with a piercing saw to accept the end of the brass rod. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted October 25, 2011 Author Share Posted October 25, 2011 As you can see from the photo's above there is a quite prominent groove at the ends of the planks which I took to represent the plank ends in the absence of further information. However Adrian (Buckjumper of this parish) has come to my rescue with a scan of the instructions that were missing from my kit. Studying these has revealed that this groove is in fact there to enable the builder to solder in some wire rod to ultimately represent the half round beading that the original had. The photo isn't the best but hopefully it shows the beading. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Another fine build there Rob, very nice 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted November 19, 2011 Author Share Posted November 19, 2011 Although I haven't posted on this thread for a while steady progress has been made. I made another seat but due to differences in the kit design I have soldered this one in, which should make painting it a bit of a challenge. I also made a false panel to hide the rear of the steps and handrail. I have detailed and soldered the roof on too I have had a go at making one of the door springs too, I still have three to go but I think that I am satisfied the completed one will look the part once painted. The plan is to solder the bottom part to the sole bar and then glue to top part to the body once that it's painted. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 Since my holiday I have done a bit more, getting the brake yokes (Laurie griffin castings), the grooms steps and the Westinghouse cylinder fitted. I have struggling to maintain the mojo for this build so I have put it aside for now and picked the A3 back up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 (edited) I thought I would wait until the site was a bit more stable before posting the latest progress. the NER horsebox is still stalled an there has been some delay as we have been finishing the garage conversion. But it's finished and I managed to move into the new workshop last night/this afternoon. So to progress, I had a bit of a kit bonanza from Connoissuer Models at Christmas - half a dozen wagons and a Y6 tram engine. So In true Pulham style I started an LNER refrigerator van. So what's in the box? Jim has a very clever way of getting the ladder sides (styles?) held in place for you, with a couple of etched tie bars that you remove once you have soldered in the rungs - another nice design touch. So far it has been one of the best brass rolling stock kit's that I have put together, the design making it really easy to get it all square. I decided to have a go at making the door locking handle so it moved. I have now completed all the upper works (I think) As seen in close up below, I also added the quite prominent hand rails that are surprisingly missing from the kit or the instructions and drawings/photo that Jim provides. They only seem to feature at the step end and I thought it would be good to try to represent the flattened end where it is bolted to the bodywork (I have attempted to do this on one of the horse boxes by squashing the end of the rod in pliers but I am not that pleased with the result). I made it from a strip of scrap etch I filed the end round and drilled a hole the same size as the rod that I used for the handrail .7mm I then pressed a rivet between the end and the hole and cut it off through the hole giving me a semi circle to fit around the handrail where it goes through the body I then gripped the rivet in fine tweezers and carefully soldered it in position. I did a smaller piece without the rivet under the bottom to finish it off - verdict very fiddly but well worth it. While packing stuff up for the move I came across my stock of Scale Hardware and may try another example at some point using a scale hex head stud instead of a rivet. It would make locating it easier as I could solder it in position from the back, keeping the front much cleaner. Edited January 7, 2012 by Rob Pulham 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 I think that the ladder looks really good, just so. What is the reason for the hole in the end sheeting, on the centre line and about an inch up? regards, Graham Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 I think that the ladder looks really good, just so. What is the reason for the hole in the end sheeting, on the centre line and about an inch up? regards, Graham Thanks Graham, I think it's so that you can solder the vacuum pipe in from the inside - although it does have a flat on the mounting plate rather than a spigot to go through the hole. I have had a look through the scrap box to see if I had another with a spigot that would go through. But although I have some with spigots they are in the wrong place (too short to reach the hole). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 (edited) Thanks Graham, I think it's so that you can solder the vacuum pipe in from the inside - although it does have a flat on the mounting plate rather than a spigot to go through the hole. I have had a look through the scrap box to see if I had another with a spigot that would go through. But although I have some with spigots they are in the wrong place (too short to reach the hole). Got a bit of whitemetal sprue? File the end to a diameter that fits the hole and then drill a similar hole in the mounting plate. Solder the sprue into the mounting plate and Babs-Ur-Aunt. Edited January 7, 2012 by Western Star 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 Got a bit of whitemetal sprue? File the end to a diameter that fits the hole and then drill a similar hole in the mounting plate. Solder the sprue into the mounting plate and Babs-Ur-Aunt. Great minds and all that. I had similar thoughts with bits of brass rod. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Or use a split pin around the vac. pipe up stand. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 Cheers OzzoO, that's one I hadn't considered. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 While in painting mode I have made a start on the backlog of wagons and vans that I got to near completion earlier in my various threads. First up is the S&D horsebox that is just sat on the chassis at present. Next is the Connoisseur NER Implement Wagon. It seems like a long time ago since I built this one On with the transfers and lining on the horse box next. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 I managed to finish the fridge van tonight - all except the buffers/couplings. In the instructions Jim says that he got the brackets for the end shelves wrong and to cut them off and space them out to the correct width. I did this but then soldered the them to some scrap etch bent at an angle to strengthen the shelf I beefed up the brake cross shafts with some 1mm square nickel rod. I also added some guard irons from fine brass strip 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now