RMweb Premium polybear Posted January 10, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2011 Hi all, I thought it was about time I continued with this thread: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=32709&p=500475#p500475 I've completed (some time ago!) a length of plain track using Masokits Etched Brass Chairs and filled the gap in the copper with filler so it won't show when painted: Now I'm building a B8 R/H Turnout using a Templot Template and C&L "HiNi" Code 75 Nickel Silver Bullhead Rail, again using Masokits etched brass chairs on copperclad sleepers. First the sleepers were cut to length and gapped, then attached to the template using double sided tape: Then I constructed the plain stock rail; the rail was first cleaned using IPA and the underside tinned using Powerflow Flux and 145 degree solder. The outer (keyed) running chairs were then used to attach the rail to the sleepers, again using Powerflow and 145 degree solder: Mistake number one was to keep the stock rail straight using a straight edge that was too short - I figured I'd simply move it along a bit as I progressed along the rail. Wrong...despite my best efforts by the time I'd worked from one end to the other (around 2ft/600mm) the rail was no longer aligned with the template (by about the width of the rail). Unsolder and start again, this time using a 600mm straight edge (a bit of ply actually). What was apparent was how forgiving the etched chairs are at being unsoldered and used again - only a couple were spoiled. Only the outer half of the chairs is fitted at this time - the inner half can wait until all is built and tested. The next step was to fit the slide chairs; they are in one piece (i.e. no inner and outer) - here's the result: And the resulting stock rail attached: Apologies for the scruffy looking Templot Template by the way - I've been using it as a workbench (sorry Martin ). The next job is to make up the 1:8 Vee and attach it. More soon. Brian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWSlack Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 It's good to see someone persisting with copperclad and aiming for a glass case finish. Go for it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_long Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 I do like those masokits etches must try them out myself. Good to see you getting on with them Brian. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Portchullin Tatty Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 How convincingly does the gapping dissapear when you paint it? It would be my main concern. On this, have you tried to use the flat of a file to take this off. I find that this is quite effective and leaves a much less obvious cut line. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium polybear Posted January 12, 2011 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 12, 2011 Hi all, Thanks for the replies It's good to see someone persisting with copperclad and aiming for a glass case finish. Go for it! Not sure I'll achieve a "Glass Case" finish! However I do like the idea of soldered track construction and having experimented with both "normal" copperclad construction (i.e. with the rail soldered directly to the sleepers) and also ply & rivet I found the main problem was the fitting of chairs afterwards. So I figured I'd try Masokits chairs to see how I got on, with a view to using them for the planned layout if all went well. I do like those masokits etches must try them out myself. Good to see you getting on with them Brian. Dave Thanks Dave. At first I thought the chairs were just a bit too fiddly and time consuming for me, but after a little practice they're growing on me considerably. I'd suggest a set of turnout chairs, as these are a lot cheaper than the running chairs (£5 instead of £11-50) and the turnout chairs includes enough running chairs for the turnout anyway, so you get to try out all types. In fact I'll have quite a few chairs left over after building the B8 turnout (I'll take a picture of the fret after I'm finished) - I'd guess that I'd be able to build three B8 turnouts from two sets of turnout chairs (£10), which is pretty good I think A set of running chairs is enough for around 8 feet of plain track, if my sums are correct. How convincingly does the gapping dissapear when you paint it? It would be my main concern. On this, have you tried to use the flat of a file to take this off. I find that this is quite effective and leaves a much less obvious cut line. I've not got that far yet, but I saw the idea on the Masokits stand and it looked fine to me (I think Mike Clarke used decorators filler - the type in the cartridge gun tube - to fill the gaps). My mistake with the turnout was to fill the gaps before construction started, thinking it would make sanding easier with no rails in the way. However, subsequent cleaning cycles during construction using a large fibreglass scratch brush have not been kind to the filler . Lesson learnt... At Scaleforum 2010 one of the demonstrators/traders had a minidrill in a drill stand, fitted with a sanding drum of reasonable size; he gapped the sleepers by holding them briefly against the sanding drum. It seemed to work very well, with no discernable "step" in the edges of the copper and hence no need to fill etc. I'll try that and report back. Best Regards, Brian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted January 12, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 12, 2011 Now if they did them in 7mm ...... Actually, I would be really unhappy having just finished soldering up the track for my O gauge plank Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Brian That looks really good, I'm particularly interested in this as we are contemplating using this method of construction for the points on the front of LMJ. Looking forward to seeing further progression. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWSlack Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 ....Now if they did them in 7mm ...... There's Exactoscale and C&L available in 7mm as plastic mouldings that thread onto code 134 bullhead rail. They are pretty good stuff, and there's no soldering needed to make them up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Brian The best results I have had filling the gaps is with Milliput. Has a much longer cureing time than other fillers. I mix up a couple of bits about the size of a pea. Using a flat blade of a modelling knife, make a thin roll and squash the filler into the gaps. Leave as tidy as you can as this reduces the amount of sanding. Leave 24 hours and sand flat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium polybear Posted February 13, 2011 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 13, 2011 Thanks for the replies. Brian That looks really good, I'm particularly interested in this as we are contemplating using this method of construction for the points on the front of LMJ. Looking forward to seeing further progression. Mike I've completed the basic turnout, just some details to finish off (gapping. wiring, etc.). I'll post some pictures very soon (today/tomorrow), as well as a list of things I've learnt along the way... Brian The best results I have had filling the gaps is with Milliput. Has a much longer cureing time than other fillers. I mix up a couple of bits about the size of a pea. Using a flat blade of a modelling knife, make a thin roll and squash the filler into the gaps. Leave as tidy as you can as this reduces the amount of sanding. Leave 24 hours and sand flat. Thanks - I understand there are different colours of Milliput available (what's the significance?) - which do you use please? Brian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 Thanks for the replies. Thanks - I understand there are different colours of Milliput available (what's the significance?) - which do you use please? Brian No idea but I think one is finer. I use the terrecotta one. Its also very good filler for loco's etc as it has a longer cureing time and can be filed cut etc. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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