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Wirral Finescale Railway Modellers

Coupling vehicles


beast66606

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Here's 66002 on a train of VGAs - nothing special you might think

 

post-6662-0-45543800-1295816891_thumb.jpg

 

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Well there's a bit of smoke and mirrors in use, here's a close up of the coupling.

 

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And a view from closer then normal viewing.

 

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These are made up of a Smiths hook (although we have our own now, an iron link (EM gauge society) and our own etched middle, which gives the appearance of a screw coupling, we've made the etch in small, medium and large to cope with different buffer lengths. It's a lot cheaper than buying screw couplings, thanks to WFRM member Mike Turner for this useful addition to our toys.

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I'm sure that there used to be a rule that the loco coupling should be used rather than the wagon one. Very neat though.

 

Discussing this with an ex-BR (steam) driver, after I found a list of what should be coupled to what, he said that they always coupled up the lightest coupling.

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I'm sure that there used to be a rule that the loco coupling should be used rather than the wagon one. Very neat though.

 

Andi

 

That may be true (in most cases!), on our models the loco retains the full coupling so it looks ok, but the wagons, being in the middle of the train, have the simplified screw coupling, the rear of the last vehicle also has a full coupling, again to make it look better. The fakes are not noticeable from normal viewing, they are cheap and we produce 3 lengths so they can be easily changed for a longer "link" but retaining the look of a screw, useful for the various buffer lengths on wagons.

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Quick question if you dodn't mind - how do things cope with the crossover? IIRC it's Peco large radius points, do you get any issues with long wheelbase or bogie vehicles when using 3 link or pseudo screw link couplings?

 

This train ran successfully though our fiddle yard through a variety of the routes, medium points, double slips, hand built points, some of the above forming a crossover, it also ran through the two tight spots on the layout - where the radius is a bit "dodgy"

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Thanks for that quick reply - dare I ask if you've tried propelling over the crossover or just hauling?

 

Shouldn't make any difference when propelling, they are loose enough to drop clear and then the buffers come into play.

 

hth

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That is a good idea, I may have to try that with the Masokit etches I have! thanks for sharing Beast, I hope one day I can see Widnes vineyard in the "flesh" as Ive always loved this layout!

 

The only time I've done "in the flesh" was at Wells with Mostyn - and that's because it was so hot..

 

Oh, I see what you mean :lol:

 

Our website has a diary with show details,

 

hth

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I'm sure that there used to be a rule that the loco coupling should be used rather than the wagon one. Very neat though.

Quite right Andy but some of these things imported from the colonies are fitted with dual couplings with a Buckeye and a hook side by side (you have to slide the thing across to use whichever you need) so the locos don't necessarily have the actual link and screw bits. Can't provide a photo of one though :( .

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Sticking to the subject matter ;) - I've been asked for more information about these so I will be photographing the raw sheet and I will also be testing the propelling moves this weekend.

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