PenrithBeacon Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Re height of chimney, the prototype photo does look a little odd, could there be an issue with lens distortion? Ie a wide angle lens was used for the picture perhaps? Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 2, 2014 Author Share Posted January 2, 2014 Re height of chimney, the prototype photo does look a little odd, could there be an issue with lens distortion? Ie a wide angle lens was used for the picture perhaps? Regards Hello all, I can understand why you may think about lens distortion, but I would have expected it to show up on the following, number plate, smokebox door, wheels, etc., all of these look in proportion. When you look at the following three photos, all of the chimneys look to be the same, in my proportion chart between 2.09 & 2.14 or as near as makes no difference. The drawing that I was using for the first chimney was produced by the G.W.R. in 1930, So it could be that the drawing was anointed with the locos that were carrying the chimney at that time (not the chimney that the loco class was built with). That's about all that I can think of. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigw Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Ozzy, I have looked at those photos and just realised that there are two taller types and the taller one in the Mitchell kit in 4mm scale is a thicker type than this one. But when I look at photographs it looks to me that the base on your turning is a slightly high and the radius is a little too sharp. Comments offered in a constructive way of course as i am finally relenting and going to purchase my first 7mm scale loco kit. The efforts of you and others on here are to blame... Regards, Craig W Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share Posted January 3, 2014 Hello all, I've just seen Craigw's post above and I can see what he's saying about the hight of the base, I think that could be a bit of a trick on the model due to the base being a bit on the thick side and that my curve maybe on the shallow side. It's now fitted in place, so I'll let the owner decide about it. If it has to come off, so be it. Back onto the main build, most of the bits fitted to the front end, just the cylinder cover, the smokebox door and handrails to fit, The splasher top will also come off and be replaced with some wider ones, that should look better when the body is on the frames. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 4, 2014 Author Share Posted January 4, 2014 Hello all, first off can I have my splashers back, the front cylinder cover in place, a bit of cleaning up is required to remove the excess solder from around the edges. You can model the cover open, but this could show that the front cylinder covers are not fully round, It looks like I'm going to have to move the centre lamp holder! Thanks for letting me have my splashers back. These are only about 1.25mm wider than the ones that I took off, but it will make a difference to the look of the loco, It's out with the divining rods. On most of my builds I use 0.8mm N/S wire for the boiler handrails, but as this loco is a] small and b] early, I'm using 0.7mm N/S/ wire, I forgot to take any photos of forming the handrails to shape, Do you want some? Setting the handrails parallel across the front of the smokebox using a drill (1.9mm in this case). To find the size, Put the handrails in the top handrail knob and see what the largest dill size will fit (use the tail end). Once your happy with the fit solder the wire to the handrail knob on the smokebox side then turn the drill around and solder the other side. If all is still OK solder to the top centre knob then all the rest of the knobs along the boiler side. I tend to work from the front to the rear alternating from one side to the other. I tend to do it this way as I think that any expansion will run towards the free end and that any that happens between the knobs will tend to pull the wire tighter, Its bath time, a few squirts of red Cillit Bang and then fill up with hot water and a quick scrub with a paint brush, I think that today I'll start back on the frames, with a bit of luck I'll get them up to the stage where I can start painting them. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian335 Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 I forgot to take any photos of forming the handrails to shape, Do you want some? Yes please, if no trouble. My efforts so far have been fairly disastrous. Do you form the handrail from one continuous piece or do the two divining rods as you call them, get shortened, bent and then soldered in the middle? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted January 4, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2014 Ozzy Those wider splashers certainly make a difference. SS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 I would like to see the handrails formed,when i do it it takes about a metre of wire before it looks right,and im an engineer. Thanks Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 I, too. would be interested in seeing how to form handrails. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 Hello all, it's not my fault I have been asked for this. I'm not saying this is the only way to do it but it works for me. First go to the pub and start chatting to (sorry wrong site). When I'm making a handrail that curves over the smokebox I do it in two parts and join them at the top handrail knob (if it was a L.N.E.R. group loco that has two knobs on the smokebox front I'd do it in three parts, and then join them all together using the knobs to hide the joints). On a G.W.R. loco that has a brake ejector pipe down the side of the boiler, the handrail would be made in three parts. Lets start with a simple over the smokebox type. The first bend is just at 90deg. for this I use a set of curved faced pliers (these let you use the rad. that you require), Now we have the first bend that goes from the smokebox side to across the front of the smokebox, we have to form the bend that starts the bottom of the curve. To do this I use the curved faced pliers moving the start of the curve to suit where the bend should be! This can take a few goes until you get your eye in, The second bend formed, you want all of these bends at 90Degs. As I said above 90Degs. As this is only to show how to do it I've not been too careful about the angles, As I have only two hands this part of the operation is a bit hard to show. First you get a bar (no you can't get a pint) that's a bit smaller in Dia. than what you want the curve to be, Then using all of your four hands take a photo and form the curve of the handrail over the bar (you can get spare hands from all good model shops), it's easy to spot me at a show I'm the bloke with four hands. After doing all of the above you should end up with something like this, then through it in the bin because its wrong. Depending on what is wrong you can save it by bending this or that, the large curve is the easy one to sort out, the hard one is the starting bend over the smokebox (you have to get that right first time). I hope this helps some of you, OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 I always like to see items like this. It is suprising how many ways there are to do the same job. Not sure why sometimes I do them this way, others I do the smoke box bend first. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian335 Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Thanks very much, a pair of those round nose pliers is now in top place on my Tools Wanted list. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Those round nose pliers look suspiciously like some circlip pliers I have..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Thanks very much, a pair of those round nose pliers is now in top place on my Tools Wanted list. Hi All for those interested in getting a pair of round nose pliers, have a look at this item on our favourite auction web site (121186149375) £2.49 free postage. I have an identical pair bought from the same source but a different supplier. And they work just fine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
11B Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 it's easy to spot me at a show I'm the bloke with four hands. One for each pint Sorry Paul, back to your thread..... Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Pliers ordered. Seemed daft not to at that price. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 pliers ordered too,Thanks for that,and thanks ozzy,you make it look so easy. Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian335 Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 I have seen some of these pliers at shows where the blades don't meet but heck, at this price and with free postage what could possibly go wrong! I've ordered a pair too, thanks Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 I have seen some of these pliers at shows where the blades don't meet but heck, at this price and with free postage what could possibly go wrong! I've ordered a pair too, thanks Dave On this type of pliers the blades aren't supposed to meet. As OzzyO has expertly demonstrated they're meant for bending and shaping, not gripping or holding. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted January 6, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 6, 2014 I've just ordered a set, not many left now. SS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Ozzy ought to be on commission. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 Hello all, over the weekend I had a brain wave (more like brain fade) and sprayed the wheels with some clear lacquer to give them a nice even shine. It reacted with the enamel and I got a crackle finish, you may just see it in this photo, The frames before stripping down, After stripping down and adding lead shot in the ash pan, then it was grit-blasted, After ultrasonic cleaning and a bit of masking off the primer is being applied, Then the red between the frames. I don't normal do red between the frames as I think that it can show up parts that should not be there and parts that should be there but aren't, When I was doing the grit-blasting I thought that the grit pattern looked a bit odd, so I had a look at the nozzle. The first one that I wore out on the left, the one that I was using in the middle and a new one on the right. These are made out of some sort of ceramic and take a lot of punishment (but they look to be the only part of the gun that ware's out), The front end of the loco after a grit-blast (I'm not sure if I've posted this photo before?), Body and frames getting ready for a quick bath using red Cillit Bang, after this the frames went into the ultrasonic cleaner, While the frames were drying and had the primer applied I fitted the rear buffer bodies, I thought that it would be tight for space behind the rear buffer plank and the rear outside frames. I was correct. So what to do just fix the buffers in place with no springing? Don't be daft this is the mad Oz man. You cut off all of the fixing collar inside of the buffer plank. This gives you some space, but it also cut off the part where the spring pushes against. Now sprung buffers don't tend to work very well if the spring has nothing to work against, to help rectify this I turned this adaptor up out of some Tufnol, The end stub fits a 10BA washer, while it was on the adaptor I tinned both sides ready for fitting in place, The washer soldered into place on the rear of the buffer body, it was then drilled 2.1mm to clear the rear buffer shank, Test fitting the buffer in place, I've removed the screw thread and cross drilled it in an adaptor that I made (I bet you want to see it! OK I'll take some photos). The rear of the shaft still wants some more metal taking off it, but I'll get some buffer movement doing it this way, Later today I'll be going back to the frames and with a bit of luck I'll have a running set of frames at the finish of work. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 What do you use to fix the lead shot, Ozzy? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 Hello all, jeffP, on this one I've just use some super glue, but if it's a big job I use a casting resin. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 That buffer mod looks easy in the photos, But when you see how small that is in real live,Then that is some very nice workmanship. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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