Mike G Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Very impressive, very neatly soldered Sir! Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 17, 2011 Author Share Posted February 17, 2011 Hello all, part two of today's photos. Part of the valve gear now in place, spacer 'D' was sprung into place after the slide bars were soldered into place. The cross heads were checked for freeness before the slide bars were fixed in place. All the valve gear in place from below. Same as above but from above. The drivers metal blacked front and back before painting. The ash pan in the flat, score the two half etched lines that are near together but on different sides. Fold to shape doing the sides first. The lines on the front and rear are for the metal that has to be removed so that it will fit between the springs. After cutting the parts out. I must get some photo of the ash pan in place. This was soldered in place before the frame overlays were fitted. The footplate / brake hanger supports folded up, the plain one is the front one. The next two photo show the frames with the supports in place, the rear two supports have small gusset pieces soldered in place. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Evening Ozzy, I noticed that you tacked a top hat bush on the rear axle then replaced it with some horn guides, was that to set the datum line before setting it up on the jig ? And also you are using split axle pick ups on the tender but plungers on the loco, is this your prefered method ? ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Thanks for that Coombe Barton. Now I know which ones to look out for on yes you've guessed it. OzzyO. £3.75 new on here - http://britishrailwaybooks.co.uk/periodical/gwrj.php Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 £3.75 new on here - http://britishrailwa...odical/gwrj.php Thanks for that Coombe Barton, it's going to cost me lots of dosh. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Hello All, Martyn, on most of my locos that I've built I normally just use plungers on the loco but I have done some with A. Harris wheels so decided to try insulated bearings on the tender so I could do away with the plungers. I was thinking about split axles on the loco but them thought, gearbox on one axle, eccentrics on another, one axle left, not worth it in the end. I may only put the plungers on the front and rear axles due to clearance/fitting probs on the center one. The unmodified ash-pan fitted to the loco. I did not like the look but the gearbox would be hidden. Same as above but a lower angle. The brake hangers fitted to the first side and checked for clearance with the wheels. That ash-pan, this just was not right so a phone call to the owner to see about a different gearbox. A close up of the front brake hanger. The safety chain fitted to one of the brake cross beams. That ash-pan has been changed looks a lot better for it. In the plunger pick-up hole you can just see a bit of the fixing for the ash pan that will foul the pick-up. If I do another I would still use the ash-pan that's supplied, but adjust the slope of the sides so that they fit higher up inside the frames, as the size is about right, that's where the G/A came in handy. The ash-pan from bellow, I may have to cut some clearance for the gear wheels but that's a small price to pay. Weighting for some stuff from Eileen's and the new motor & gearbox. So the next lot will be on the upperworks. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Hello All, just uploaded some more photos, this time on the upper works. The footplate base and overlay. In the instruction it tells you to remove the buffer plates from the rear drag beam as the indents for the rivets are on the wrong side. DONT. The etched indents are not for rivets but are representations of recessed bolts. The splasher tops are over length (better than under length) you can shorten them or do what I do and file one side of the splasher gap at an angle so that the top will go below the footplate. As above but from above. Note the small lip on the L/H side. Sorry about the quality of this photo, by the time I knew about it the tops were on. Front splasher top fitted in place, its not as bad in the flesh. All the tops in place and valve chest fitted. Close up of the joint between splasher and valve chest. I have fitted some Scale Hardware bolts, rather than punch out the bolt heads. This area has still to be cleaned up. OzzyO. PS. DON'T use bolts on the valve chest sides, in a photo I've now got it shows rivet heads.To late for me now to change them, I think!!!!!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Hi Ozzy, Those bolt heads really stand out, any idea what size they were ? ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 22, 2011 Author Share Posted February 22, 2011 Hello All, Martyn, sorry I forgot to answer one of your questions, I did solder the top hat bushes in place to act as a datum, it works in two plains, it locates the wheel centers and helps keep the axles level across the frames. The simulated bolts that I used were 0,7mm [approx 1.21" or 1 1/4"] and 0.7mm [approx 1.43" or 1 1/2"]. You can get them from Eileen's at £9.00 a pack or from Scale Hardware at $9.00 a pack. IIRC there's 25 per pack. The Scale Hardware site is worth a good look [no connection]. While the cab inner former? is in the flat cut out the glazing to fit the windows , its a lot easier to do it now. The two tab at the back end of the side sheets need cut/filing down so that the side sheet will sit correctly on the footplate. Clean up the cab front and emboss the rivets [ I think that I did three sizes]. Fold up the inner former and solder the cab front in place, it will over hang the sides DONT FILE IT BACK. Solder it in to place on the footplate. Sorry no photo. Forming the cab side beading to shape. I made a little jig for this about ten locos back. The beading in place and the sides tinned. I normally fit the beading when the sides are in place but I thought that the inner openings may be a bit on the tight side so I did it in the flat. I was right a bit of filing was required on the bottom edge. Cab side in place. This is where the small top hat bushes that I was asking about would be fitted, top and bottom of the vertical handrail. Some of the cab interior in place. As I was going to have to glue the reversing gearbox cover in place, I thought that I would give the cab and a bit of the footplate a quick grit blast. A before and after shot of the cab front that I was going to be working on. The other side where I have not blasted the side. The bolts on the valve chest side after a quick blast. Some more bolts in the sanding gear linkage [1.43mm]. The body still has to be fully cleaned, but it still surprises me what the blaster will remove without damaging the brass. Off to work soon OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Love it, the level of detail on these kits is amazing...you could never put this much detail into a 4 mil kit and so nicely put together. Great tip on the jig, I struggled like crazy to get that right on the County cab. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 22, 2011 Author Share Posted February 22, 2011 Love it, the level of detail on these kits is amazing...you could never put this much detail into a 4 mil kit and so nicely put together. Great tip on the jig, I struggled like crazy to get that right on the County cab. Mike Mike, come up and join the big boys, the waters loverly. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Very nice work OzzyO, and somewhat more sophisticated than my K3, which is proving a bit of a battle! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 22, 2011 Author Share Posted February 22, 2011 Very nice work OzzyO, and somewhat more sophisticated than my K3, which is proving a bit of a battle! and here's he thinking a nice simple kit. OK I've been building a lot of big locos for the last couple of years Stars, Castles & Kings (now that might be a good title for a book). All of them had working valve spindles and inside cross-heads. To all thanks for the nice words. More to come soon, just doing some cleaning up at the moment. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Shes a belter I like the baby castles may be I will have to have one to go with the big castle. Those bolt heads look great too. Looking forward to seeing them on my castle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 Hello All, I've never heard them call 'Baby Castles' before. On with some boiler work, I keep a small selection of drills and burrs for use on the blue resin castings from J.L.T.R.T. I also tend to drill it using a power tool, The drills ware to a sharp point but still seem to drill. As the weighting agent in them knocks the edge off them in seconds (some one once told me that they use aluminum oxide, they don't it's powdered glass). The cladding band clips and clack valve adjusters in place. The front saddle has been fitted. This is screwed (I use self tappers 1/2" long) them drilled for the fixing screw, at the same time as you are marking out for the front screw mark out the rear ones as well. The smokebox step in place. I normally use a dome headed rivet for this, I'm glad that I didn't this time as the step is to long. It needs to be 3.5mm long from the front of the smokebox. This is from the G/A. Front view of the smoke box and step (after mod.) Three views of the boiler fixed in place. In the instructions it tells you to remove the cradle before fixing the boiler in place. Well I didn't. If you leave the cradle in place you can check that the boiler is not putting any twist in the footplate. It is a lot easier to do this this with the cradle than without it. (does that make sense). Starting to look like an engine now. The rear fixings for the boiler (1/4" self tappers on this). I just used the holes as etched. If I do another one, I will move the holes down at approx 45 deg.by about 3mm checking that they don't go in to the void for the motor. My fix on this one was to grind the heads down until about 0.5mm. I will still have to putt some recesses in the back of the back-head for them as well. This thread reach a mile stone today and I did it. We have had 2000 hits. So thanks to all who have viewed it and I hope that it helps someone. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 She's starting to look like an engine now . The inside valve gear looks brilliant. Baby castles apparently western engine men liked the power in these engines and that's how they got there nicknames. I read that in a Harold gasson book. Your going to have to do a thread on Every build now mate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 She's starting to look like an engine now . The inside valve gear looks brilliant. Baby castles apparently western engine men liked the power in these engines and that's how they got there nicknames. I read that in a Harold gasson book. Your going to have to do a thread on Every build now mate. Get thee behind me Saten. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alibuchan Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 Hi Ozzy, How easy have you found this build? I am just wondering due to the JLTRT web site it states that it is a starter kit would it be the type of loco to start with or is there something out there better. thanks Alistair Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 I had the same problem with the 4F boiler - the glass in the resin reduced drills to blunt pins, and the circular saw ended up as a plain disk! I think you have to use something like tungsten carbide - but someone with more enginineering expertise than me will know I'm sure... Looking good - ( argh - I've complemented Great Western! ) !!! I must go and place my hand on an RCTS Green book! Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 24, 2011 Author Share Posted February 24, 2011 Hi Ozzy, How easy have you found this build? I am just wondering due to the JLTRT web site it states that it is a starter kit would it be the type of loco to start with or is there something out there better. thanks Alistair Hello Alistair, as a first kit no, but if you have done one or two and you can solder OK then yes. All the really hard bits are done for you eg. boiler, tender tank raves and sides and the cab roof. The valve gear may look a bit daunting but if you take your time with it you'll be OK. If you don't fancy the valve gear to work mount it on a tube that will go over the axle and solder it up solid. You don't have to spring the loco or tender chassis as they can be built ridged. I've not found anything that's been difficult but I have built a good few locos. Hope this helps you, the photos in this thread will give you a good idea of how the kit goes together. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 24, 2011 Author Share Posted February 24, 2011 I had the same problem with the 4F boiler - the glass in the resin reduced drills to blunt pins, and the circular saw ended up as a plain disk! I think you have to use something like tungsten carbide - but someone with more enginineering expertise than me will know I'm sure... Looking good - ( argh - I've complemented Great Western! ) !!! I must go and place my hand on an RCTS Green book! Regards Tony Hello Tony, the next time I put some photos up I'll try and remember to put a photo of one of the drills that I use for drilling the blue resin. For opening out the inside of the fire box I use the band sanding drums (do ware a mask) and for shaping the top and sides of the splasher cut outs (if you need to), I use diamond burrs. One of the problems with tungsten carbide is if you get out of line when you're drilling PING. And you will have a bit of drill stuck in the hole that you wont be able to get out (don't ask how I know). I like the look of it as well and I'm not a Western man. I must get one of Bob Essery's books out for some bed time reading. Some more to come soon and all been well finishing the chassis. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 25, 2011 Author Share Posted February 25, 2011 Hello All, I think that I mentioned that the motor and gearbox had arrived, so back to the chassis. The terminal board for the pick-up wires and the stop for the gearbox fitted. The same as above but from the front, you can also see that I cocked up drilling the holes. Should have been 2.3mm but picked up a 2.5mm drill (should have gone to Specsavers). The mount for the terminal board can also be used as the mount for a DCC chip. The ash pan before and after modification. The motor and gearbox showing the clearance with the ash pan. This is with the springs at the bottom of there travel. Showing how the motor and gearbox sit against the motor restraint (the motor is a small Maxon and a ABC Mini-S gear box), When fully fitted there is a wire that wraps around the motor and the restraint to stop it flapping back and forth, but still allows the gearbox to move up and down with the wheels.. All the brake pull rods in place. I used some 1 X 1.5mm brass for them from Eileen's, one length will do. The rear adjusters are a bit long so I cut them approx half way between the first and second nut and approx half way between the second and third nut, then cut a short sleeve of some 2.5mm tube to align the cut ends. All that is now left to fit on the chassis are the front sandboxes and the pipe work from the injectors. For the pipe work I will need the body, so I can get the pipes in the correct place on the two of them. So now to temporally fit the wheels etc. and pop it on the rolling road for a hour or two. I've also to decide which of the two roofs to use, brass or plastic? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 Hello All, so back to the chassis. The sandbox's as supplied on the left, I was not happy about there shape so I modified them to the shape on the right. Then in to the gritblaster. Fitted to the frames and sand pipe attached. The wire restraint fitted to the motor and frames. If you do it this way make sure that the gearbox will still move with the axle. Two shots of the chassis on the R/R. While the chassis was having a run it was back to the body. Two of the drills that I use on the blue resin, the one on the left is 1.9mm used for drilling the holes for the self tapping screws, and the one on the right 1.3mm is used for the handrail knobs. They do still drill to size, but I wont be able to use them for anything else. First handrail formed to shape and loose fitted in to the knobs. Second handrail formed to shape and loose fitted in to the knobs. The drill is to make sure when I solder them into place that they are parallel to the smokebox front. Handrails soldered in to place. The sequence that I use is first knob L/H side, first knob R/H side, top of smokebox then the next knob on alternate sides. Two views of the engine body. Two views of the rear of the smokebox number plate backing plate (if anyone wants dimensions of this. PM me) or if enough of you ask I'll put it on here. The backing plate in position. A side view with the cradle removed. Still a bit more work to do but starting to look something like. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 I keep a small selection of drills and burrs for use on the blue resin castings from J.L.T.R.T. I also tend to drill it using a power tool, The drills ware to a sharp point but still seem to drill. As the weighting agent in them knocks the edge off them in seconds (some one once told me that they use aluminum oxide, they don't it's powdered glass). OzzyO. Utterly impressed with the modelling here, I should hope to achieve this standard! On the question of drilling glass filled resin, does anyone know of a supplier of carbide <1.5mm drills? Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 1, 2011 Author Share Posted March 1, 2011 Utterly impressed with the modelling here, I should hope to achieve this standard! On the question of drilling glass filled resin, does anyone know of a supplier of carbide <1.5mm drills? Regards I think that you can get them from Expo drills and tools. Carbide drills are best used in a piller drill with the work secuerly mounted. The drills will snap like a carrot if the job moves out of position, not like a H.S.S. drill that will "bend". You want to see some of my early stuff . Thinking on no you dont. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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