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Building a G.W.R. Grange + more in 7mm OF from a JLTRT kit starts on P.85 by OzzyO,





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#1 ozzyo

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 09:29

Hello All,

I have got around to building the JLTRT 2251, so what do you get in the box?

Etches.JPG

The etches and the resin tender body, the brass etches are.020" and the N/S chassis etch .030"

Brass castings.JPG

The brass castings.

Wm castings.JPG

The W/M castings.

So now on with some work,

100 01.JPG
The frames as supplied

100 02.JPG
The frames with the horn-guides cut out and the horn guides fitted and drilled 0.6 for the safety chains. 4mm to the rear of the brake pivots.

100 03.JPG
The frame spacers, I have missed out one in the photo, it fits to the front below the one with the big hole,

100 05.JPG
One of the spacers has been modified for the wire to run through, I'm doing the tender with split axle pick ups (that could be fun)

100 06.JPG
The spacers in place, the small front spacer has been deliberately put in place the wrong way round, this is the inside support for the water pick-up gear.

100 08.JPG
The out side support for the water pick-up gear and the brake operating shaft. This to has to be fitted the wrong way round. So I can see some fun when I have to fit the draw bar pin.

200 03.JPG
The outer frames, on all the other GWR tender that I have done the frames run to the front as in the one that has the hatched marks on it, so does any one know if these frames do the same.

More to follow.

OzzyO.


Edited by ozzyo, 25 May 2015 - 09:28 .

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#2 3 link

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 09:59

Disregard the pm I sent you Paul, I was still half asleep :blink:. Look forward to this build as it's on my to do list.

ATB, Martyn.

#3 craigwelsh

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 10:53

I assume the tender is compensated by design with the fixed axle? Seems a pity they designed it like that in the last few years now we have springing unless it is mostly a Malcom Mitchell kit with the difficult main section replaced by the resin tank?

I have a 4mm Finney in the pile so i'll be interested how you get on.

#4 ozzyo

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 11:09

I assume the tender is compensated by design with the fixed axle? Seems a pity they designed it like that in the last few years now we have springing unless it is mostly a Malcom Mitchell kit with the difficult main section replaced by the resin tank?

I have a 4mm Finney in the pile so i'll be interested how you get on.




It can be built ridged or with the two front axles sprung, I've built a lot of the Mitchell tenders with compensation on the front two axles and they all hold the road well.
309a.JPG
The compensation unit for a Mitchell 4000 gal. tender, the middle tube is cut before it is fitted to the tender. Also the tube bearing is cut like the front one.

OzzyO.
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#5 steve fay

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 13:44

Nice to see it coming together from scratch. Will watch with interest

#6 ozzyo

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 09:44

Back to work,
the front brake shaft support from below, this has been modified by drilling four 1mm holes and soldering in some brass wire, the tops will be cut out later to clear the tails of the sprung intermediate buffer shanks.
100 09.JPG

The vacuum tank in place
100 10.JPG

All the bearing fitted in place with tubular bearings and Tufnol sleeves. The Tufnol sleeves and the tube bearing are fixed in place using Loctite 290 penetrating adhesive. The tubular bearing will have the middles cut out later.
100 11.JPG

A close up of one of the Tufnol sleeves from the inside.
100 12.JPG

Starting on the water pick-up gear, looks like I forgot the top collar, no big prob just cut in half and solder the two halves in place.
100 13.JPG

Most of the pick-up gear in place, still to add the operating rods etc.
100 14.JPG

First job this morning, setting the chassis level
100 15.JPG

Setting the middle axle .025" above the outer two.
100 16.JPG

The adhesive applicator tool (bit of bent wire) for applying the Loctite to the 12BA screws.
1 Tool.JPG

OzzyO.
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#7 3 link

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Posted 05 February 2011 - 00:15

Hi OzzyO,

Very interesting methods you are using here, I like the use of Tufnol sleeves did you turn them up yourself ? I must admit that most if not all the kits I have built have some slight modifications to the said instructions, and I think that once a person gains that confidence and knows how most kits go together they put their own mark on their loco's, with various " tune-ups " whether extra detail or better running. End of waffle, when's the next instalment due, soon I hope.

ATB, Martyn.

#8 ozzyo

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Posted 07 February 2011 - 10:15

Hello Martyn & All,

I did turn the Tufnol bushes up myself, sizes as follow 5.4mm O/D with a 7mm rim 0.5mm thick, by 5.6mm long,drilled and reamed to 4.8mm. The brass horn blocks were drilled to 5.4mm and the bush and tube bearing fixed in to place with Loctite 290.

The front brake shaft and the vac. brake arm and brake links in place (don't fix the brake links in place yet).
100 18.JPG

The casting for the water pick-up gear as supplied.
100 19.JPG

I cut the arms from the casting and drill them and fix in to place using 1.6mm brass wire.
100 20.JPG

Horn blocks with the pick up wires in place.
100 21.JPG

The pcb fitted to the top of the chassis, with the rear and loco pick up wires in place.
100 22.JPG

The jig that I use for making the brake pull rods. This is just two lengths of 1/4" hard wood drilled at 7'6" centers.
100 23.JPG

Now on to the outer frame while I get the split axles made and the wheels shorted out and painted.
The first problem that I have come across is that the dimples for the rivets on the tank support brackets are etched on the wrong side. So I drilled them out for some Scale Hardware rivets and soldered them in place using 188 deg. solder.
200 04.JPG

The supports now soldered in place
200 06.JPG

Side frame and front and rear buffer planks in place. On the rear steps I solder some scrap etch to the inside to add a bit of support.
200 07.JPG

For the intermediate buffers I use Slater's 4mm LMS ones with the square base turned off.
200 08.JPG

The valance over lays in place, note that they are handed, the V goes above the axle C/L and the end with the most rivets goes to the front.
200 12.JPG

Now onto a bit of body work.
Solder all the 8, 8BA nuts to the footplate, the ones along the edge I soldered with the flats running front to back as I could see that there maybe a problem with the fit of the body, and there was, the fix was to remove some small cut outs on the inside of the body.
300 02.JPG
300 04.JPG

The rear steps, you have a choice of etched or cast I went for the etched, they just look a bit finer. When you drill the holes counter sink them a bit from the rear.
300 03.JPG

Fixing the body to the foot plate.
Give the body and the footplate a good wash (I use Cillit Bang). For fixing the body I used epoxy, one of the longer setting types. I put some clear plastic under it as well and a bit of weight on top. I am still thinking about how to attach the coal raves to the body.
300 06.JPG

OzzyO.
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#9 Blandford1969

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Posted 07 February 2011 - 11:01

A really interesting thread, seeing the level of detail in the kit and how you are putting it together is great.

Kind regards
Duncan

#10 kristian1401

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Posted 07 February 2011 - 18:30

Thank you very much for posting this! helps us get an idea of how easy/ difficult something is. I may attempt a collet one day.....

Kristian

#11 ozzyo

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 09:37

Hello All,

thanks for the comments on this thread, I'll keep updating yous.

The wheels, from the left, cleaned up and slot (0.5mm) cut in, wire (0.46mm tined copper) soldered to the hub and rim, all cleaned up and ready for a wash in Cillit Bang the green one. Then blacken the rim front and back and paint.
100 24.JPG

The split axle, the L/H end was drilled 3/32" and a length of sliver steel fixed in place using Loctite 638, then a length of Tufnol was drilled 3/32" and fixed in place then turned to 2.95mm dia. with a 2.4mm collar.
100 25.JPG

The completed axle. Doing it this way you only need one axle to make a split axle.
100 26.JPG

The front footplate, you have a choice of brass or resin, I went for the brass as I think that it looks a bit finer.
300 07.JPG

The coal raves. Part of the job that I had not been looking forward to, for the inside rivet strips don't cut them from the raves look to see which ones line up with the etched rivets and cut them at the bottom, then fold them over fold a L shape in them to clear the lip on the resin block and solder them up. Form the end bends around a drill shaft.
Now for some fun fitting them to the resin block.
300 08.JPG

OzzyO.

#12 3 link

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 22:11

Excellent photos and tips , can you tell me what you used to get those slots cut so accurately and tidy into the wheel backs. Very enjoyable thread,

ATB, Martyn.

#13 ozzyo

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Posted 10 February 2011 - 10:26

Excellent photos and tips , can you tell me what you used to get those slots cut so accurately and tidy into the wheel backs. Very enjoyable thread,

ATB, Martyn.



Hello Martyn,

glad that your liking it.
The slots were cut into the back of the wheels using a 0.5mm slitting saw in my vertical mill. The wheel is set up on a stub axle and aligned across two of the spokes, depth set to 0.5mm and cut. Dead easy if you have the gear.
Got the coal raves on not as bad as I thought it would be, now on with the brake gear photos to follow.

OzzyO.

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Posted 10 February 2011 - 11:51

Hi Ozzy,

I have an horizontal mill and I suppose I could make up a jig to hold the wheels fairly easily what do you think ? Any chance of a photo of your milling set up if possible. I will not be able to reply to you straight away as I am off to various places in Europe until Monday, nothing exciting only work ! So look forward to catching up with the build then.

ATB, Martyn.

#15 Scale7JB

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Posted 10 February 2011 - 13:46

Very nice Ozzy..

How accurately can the tufnol be turned down? Is there any deflection in the axle after its done?

JB.

#16 ozzyo

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Posted 10 February 2011 - 13:57

Hello Martyn & all,

I will try and take some photos of how I M/C the slots in the wheels. But I'm not sure how you will be able to do it on a H mill?

In this photo I'm attaching (gluing) I'm not that keen on using glue. The second coal rave, the fist one is in place so I can adjust the length of the second one to suite at the rear.
300 09.JPG

Back to the inner chassis,
The datum brake gear has been fixed in place.
100 27.JPG

All the rest are now worked from that.
100 28.JPG
100 29.JPG

The fixing holes on the inner chassis are set down from the frames, I'm not to keen on that so I solder a couple of washers to the spacers and file them flat to the top of the frames.
100 30.JPG

OzzyO.
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#17 ozzyo

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Posted 10 February 2011 - 14:12

Very nice Ozzy..

How accurately can the tufnol be turned down? Is there any deflection in the axle after its done?

JB.



Hello JB,

with a good sharp tool you should be able to get it to + or - .001" a lot of that will depend on the quality of the Tufnol rod that you are using. For the axles I normally go for 3mm bore and a 2.95mm fit, using Loctite 638.

OzzyO.

#18 ozzyo

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Posted 11 February 2011 - 09:25

Hello Martyn and all,

in the photo I've mounted the wheel the wrong way round so that you can see the stub axle that I use, this is removed before M/Cing the slot, by mounting the wheel with its back to the fixed jaw of the vice any variation in the thickness will not affect the depth of the slot. For setting the spokes level I just use a surface gauge set to the center height of the stub axle.
DSCF0723.JPG

HTH
OzzyO.

#19 -missy-

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Posted 11 February 2011 - 12:35

This is brilliant!

You cannot beat a nice engine that is well thought out and engineered. I am sure many of the techniques here could be applicable in the smaller scales.

Missy :)

#20 Mike G

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Posted 11 February 2011 - 15:26

Wonderful work, I wish the larger scale did it for me...I have a 7mm Brit stored somewhere that needs a soldering iron passing over it!

Mike

#21 ozzyo

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 10:00

Hello all,

can any one help me with a frame plan or G/A drawing of the 2251, or if its in GWRJ what issue.

TIA

OzzyO.

#22 Coombe Barton

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 11:08

Hello all,

can any one help me with a frame plan or G/A drawing of the 2251, or if its in GWRJ what issue.

TIA

OzzyO.


http://www.gwrjourna...t=All&x=48&y=16

#23 ozzyo

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 14:54

http://www.gwrjourna...t=All&x=48&y=16



Thanks for that Coombe Barton. Now I know which ones to look out for on yes you've guessed it.

OzzyO.

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Posted 16 February 2011 - 14:29

Hi Ozzy,

Well I am back again and enjoying catching up on the progress of the build, I am 100% steam fanatic and have little interest in those diesel things. But I went through the channel tunnel last week and as we came out on the French side there was an EWS Class 66 parked up in a siding weird !! Why do you need the G/A plans of the frame? Or will we find that out in the next installment B).

ATB, Martyn.

#25 ozzyo

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Posted 17 February 2011 - 13:09

Hello All,
I've got some bits on order for the tender so I'm going to start on the engine, I also want to see how I'm going to couple the engine and tender together. So what do get for the engine (it's not a loco until its all together).

A sheet of brass etches. For the body work.
400 brass etch.JPG

A sheet of N/S etches for the chassis and the inside valve gear.
400 ns etch.JPG

The N/S castings, for the inside valve gear.
400 ns castings.JPG

The brass castings, I think that the W/M casting are on this photo, if not the W/M casting are, smoke box door, back-head and two sandboxes.
400 brass castings.JPG

The resin parts.
400 resin.JPG

So lets put the iron on and start putting some of it together. The parts for the brake cylinder supports.
40001.JPG

The frames and spacers laid out in there appropriate positions. The frames are marked B/P = brake pivot, and drilled 2.5mm for the pick-ups.
40002.JPG

I then started on the crank axle, the eccentrics were assembled using Loctite 638 and left to set for about 24 hrs. but just to keep them together. The basic parts and the full assembly. I drilled the holes 1.1mm for the clearance but if I do another I will drill them 1.2mm.
40004.JPG
40011.JPG

The front two axle holes cut out for the horn blocks with a top hat bush tacked in the rear one. Spacer 'A' soldered in place, with spacers 'E' & 'C' tacked in place.
40005.JPG

Second frame tacked in place and checking for flatness, at this point you are better not to have tacked spacer 'C' to the second frame, when you have got it flat add a bit more solder to 'E' and 'C' then check again etc. Before soldering 'E' up solid spring 'F' into place, 'B' will slot into place from the top. 'D' will be fitted later.
40006.JPG

Axle jig set up and fitting the front horn-guides and axle boxes. Then fit the middle ones.
40008.JPG

All three (six) axle boxes in place.
40009.JPG

Setting the chassis level at all four corners, and setting the middle axle stop 0.025" above the other two. When I'm happy with this I Loctite the setting screws up using Loctite 290.
40010.JPG

I've got more to post but I'm getting peckish and the workshop is calling.

OzzyO.
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