julesmwatson Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Hi OzzyO, I seem to recall you modifying a white metal sand box a few pages back. I have to remove a portion of a white metal casting and was wondering what method you used? I was thinking about grit paper. Cheers, Julian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Hi OzzyO, I seem to recall you modifying a white metal sand box a few pages back. I have to remove a portion of a white metal casting and was wondering what method you used? I was thinking about grit paper. Cheers, Julian Hello Julian, all, first I would like to say that I'm amazed at the number of views (hits) that this thread has had over 32,500. I would just like to say a BIG THANK YOU To all that have had a look and contributed to it as well. If these are the photos that your thinking about What I did was mark out what had to come off with my surface gauge, on all faces (you will lose some of the marking out when you cut the first face). Depending on how much you have to remove, on these it was quite a bit, so it was out with the files, rough first and finishing with a smooth file. To help stop the files clogging with the white metal you can rub the files with chalk. And then into the grit blaster. To remove this amount of metal with wet 'n' dry (grit paper) it would take forever. I do use wet 'n' dry mounted on flat bits of wood for smoothing the flat faces of castings, in both white metal and brass before fitting them to the kit. HTH OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 ....To remove this amount of metal with wet 'n' dry (grit paper) it would take forever..... I did try to tell him that! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Castle Class 5043 Earl of Mount Edgcumbe This loco was built for me by OZZY a few years ago, This was the first loco I commisioned in O gauge and was the reason for me selling a large collection of OO gauge models. Built from a JLTRT kit with SDK. Unfortunatley We had to part company but recently I was given the option of buying this loco back and as you could imagine I was not going to turn that offer down. So Im happy to say that in the near future she will be coming home. The loco has been painted by Conrad Cooper and weathered by Fred Lewis I thought I would post the image here as it is a tribute to Ozzys building skills Conrads painting skills and Freds life bringing skills. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I have to remove a portion of a white metal casting and was wondering what method you used? Depends on which bit you need to remove - I needed to take about 1/8" from the thickness of some sandboxes, the loco was built to S7 standards from a Finescale kit hence the sandboxes were too thick. I mounted them in a 4 jaw chuck in my mini-lathe and skimmed the surface, nice and flat and no clogged files, but does require having a lathe to hand. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
julesmwatson Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Hi OzzyO, Yes, it did help indeed. I ended up using the files and grit paper. (Thanks Horsetan - you did indeed tell me!) Hi Adrian, Thanks for that. Here's a link to the two cast steam chest castings (3.5mm scale) to be modified. Unfortunately, I do not have direct acces to a lathe (yet). But I do like your approach. I tried to use a small modelling saw. However, the limited amount of waste material was such that I could see regret looming. Apologies for hijacking your thread, Oz. Cheers, Julian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Depends on which bit you need to remove - I needed to take about 1/8" from the thickness of some sandboxes, the loco was built to S7 standards from a Finescale kit hence the sandboxes were too thick. I mounted them in a 4 jaw chuck in my mini-lathe and skimmed the surface, nice and flat and no clogged files, but does require having a lathe to hand. What sort of speed would that take? And what sort of feed? I would be scared of the tool digging in and tearing the part out of the jaws... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Hello all, a couple of photos of the Bulldog after it's day out running on the owners layout. It's got the wrong tender on it at the moment, as it should have a Dean / Churchward tender with the short coal raves. I've just had a video sent to me from blobs2blobs on Utube of the Sat. I would think that it will appear on Railnuts very soon. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 For the video log on to you tube and type in; Pete Watermans famous Model Railway-2.mp4 Blobs2blobs channel. My castle and king are on the Pullman set along with MIkes 44. Im sure the more computer literate of you could post a direct link. Theres plenty of other videos on ther to enjoy as well. One has my king on there with the sound on although I hadnt got around to refiiting it after the loco needed a replacement motor. All the best. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Is this the one? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BxjoOUw_wnE Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Is this the one? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BxjoOUw_wnE Nick Thanks Nick, thats the one. And yes I did get the screw back in!!!!!!!!!! OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45157 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 I really have nothing to say that could possibly add to that video other than it's the best half hour I will spend at work this Month. A most genuine thank you to all involved for sharing such stunning work. regards Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 That's a fantastic video. Thanks for posting it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 Hello all, I'm after some help with this Finney Bulldog as some of the etches are missing. For etches it's not worth contacting the kit manufacture for them as it will mean cutting into a full set of etches. The etches that are missing are U32 (firebox brackets - with castings) X4. If you only have one that would help as I could then use it as a pattern for the rest of them. If you can help me PM me, any cost will be sorted out. TFAH OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 Hello all, just a quick up date, a.t.c. pick up fitted to the bogie from the front the same with the bogie upside down and from the rear The front vacuum pipe I would just like to say well done Wales, a good game. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 Hello all, I'm having a break from the loco and going on to the tender. So what do you get in the box? The first sheet of etches, a quick look at them and a lot of the etches are for the frames The second sheet of etches, mostly for the body, note the tender filler The last three etches, including draw-bars, toolbox's, compensation box, etc. The white metal castings, note the number of springs and axle box's, 18 of three different types (a lot going in the spares box), two water fillers and two pick up domes plus the one on the etches so three types of filler and domes The lost wax castings, look nice and clean And last but not least the turnings Having now had a good look at the parts, the etches look nice and crisp the big test will they fit together? Some of the casting need a bit of a clean up, but most of then do in all kits. All in all it look like you could build any of the Dean/Churchward 3000 Gallon tender from this kit. The black etch primer should arrive Tus. or Wed. I will be giving it a go on the wheels and inside frames of this tender. As my mate Buzz would say "onwards and upwards" OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 Hello all, as I would expect the top hat bushes were drilled for 3/16" axles but I was using 5/32" so I had to sort that out. So it was into the lathe and drill them out to about 5mm, this was the result . The inside and outside may have a step but if it works? OzzyO has to go to bed more to follow. The edit was to remove the photos that I had not put captions to. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 Hello all, I've edited my last post to take the photos out that I had not put captions to, so I'm going to repost them here. The compensation beams as supplied bottom, the extra bearing holes at the sides are for when the kit is blown up to gauge 1 and gauge 3. The top one has had the bearing thickening plates folded up and the strengthening rib folded back The compensation beams with the pivot tube, brake hangers and bearings in place The compensation beams now separated, I use a piercing saw to cut the tube this just gives about the right amount of end float The front compensation box in the flat, as supplied on the left and with the extra bearing plates removed on the right Front compensation box folded up and bearings and brake hangers in place The inner main frames in the flat and sizes marked for drilling The inner frames folded to shape and soldered up, with the front and centre tank supports in place. I did at first solder the tank rear in place but then removed it, you will see why next All the compensation units in place. I was going to solder the pivot rod for the front unit to the inside of the rocking box, but thought that there's was a good chance of locking it up so I added a bit of L angle brass to stop it coming out, the tank front stops it coming out the other way. As you can see the rear compensation beams run through the tank rear. About the only mods. that I have done up to now are widen and deepen the slots for the brake hangers and use my standard pivot and tube/rod for the compensation unit The tank bottom in place, this I did modified a bit in that I made the cut-outs a bit bigger, a bit of tidying up to do but getting there, this now gives us a nice box girder to fit the rest of it to. Getting the curve on the tank sides was a bit harder than I expected as the brass did seem a bit on the hard side. Better that way than soft Up to now all going well OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 Just had the post, but no black etch primmer, so no test today. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 I use Acid 8 etch primer. I have never had any problems with this. Who makes the one you are waiting for? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 I use Acid 8 etch primer. I have never had any problems with this. Who makes the one you are waiting for? Hello N15class, for the body work and frames I use Teroson etch primer, I have used it for a good number of years and it does the job. All I was thinking about with the black etch primer was for the running gear and frames (no need for for a second coat of paint). I have used the Upol Acid 8 primer before, but I like the Teroson one more, very nice smooth finish to it and the top coat sticks well. But the most important thing is my tame painter likes it as well. I don't know who makes the new primer as it has not turned up yet, I will let you know when it turns up if it has it on the can. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
m davies Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Hello all, I've edited my last post to take the photos out that I had not put captions to, so I'm going to repost them here. The compensation beams as supplied bottom, the extra bearing holes at the sides are for when the kit is blown up to gauge 1 and gauge 3. The top one has had the bearing thickening plates folded up and the strengthening rib folded back OzzyO. Thats interesting, I didn't know Finney offered their locos in other scales ?. Nice work BTW, always a pleasure to peruse your work bench. Kindest Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 Thats interesting, I didn't know Finney offered their locos in other scales ?. Nice work BTW, always a pleasure to peruse your work bench. Kindest Michael The tender is not by Finney it's by Scorpio, OzzyO.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
m davies Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 The tender is not by Finney it's by Scorpio, OzzyO.. Ahh I see, googled Scorpio, no web site which kinda makes it hard to peruse their wares, wonder if they will consider a 1:32 etch for a castle, 10mm at a push but slightly overscale, hmmm food for thought. Kindest Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 Ahh I see, googled Scorpio, no web site which kinda makes it hard to peruse their wares, wonder if they will consider a 1:32 etch for a castle, 10mm at a push but slightly overscale, hmmm food for thought. Kindest Michael Hello Michael, I've had a look at the Scorpio list and they do do a Castle kit in 7mm complete with 3500 gal. or 4000gal. tender for £280. They also do the 4000gal. 8 wheeled Collett tender. What that was all about I don't know, as it was a standard 4000gal. tender body on an 8 wheeled set of frames. No extra water or coal, so all it have been for was to reduce the axle loading, But if your going to do that why run it with your bigger locos eg. Castles and Halls seem to have been its main companions. Sorry to babel on a bit there, Scorpio's phone No. is 01633 279897 and ask for Pat. If you do get one please do a photo build on here. Let us know how you get on as well please. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.