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Dapol 'Western'


Andy Y
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Hi guys,

 

Thanks for the comments and kind words.

 

The buffers are just some rubbish they had kicking around in china, hence the shape as they are loath to cast them before I have signed off on them in case I don't like them.

 

Can't wait forMark "the guru's" comments

Cheers

Dave

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She is an image of beauty ....have three on pre-order, can't wait.

Same query re the valances - will the full items be provided with the model for those not needing access to the NEM couplings?

 

Neil

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Hi guys,

 

Sure I've covered this in previous mails, but the western will have the following (Cue people complaining at having to fit parts)

 

1) 2 replacement valances without coupling holes

2) a full set of replacement brake shoes for those with generous track radii

3) non fitted etched name and number plates for the customer to fit or choose others ( there will be no name or number printed on the logo)

4) accessory pack of brake hoses etc will be included

5) it will have angled valances, peaked nose and flush body side opening grill.

6) The chassis will incorporate the correct battery box clips for the livery modelled. Where the livery spans the change over, the later clips variant will be used.

7) having taken the EP apart I can confirm the cab clips into the body and is not glued making access to the head code panels easier

8.) roof lift rings will be factory fitted and of etched steel.

 

Hope this helps

Cheers

Dave

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I didn't have chance to get to an old drive last night but an observation is that the headboard brackets appear a little overweight. It may be worth just checking that although I appreciate my image above is a cruel magnification.

 

D1023_nose.jpg

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I dare say it looks superb in the flesh Andy, and the photos posted so far are more than enough to make me put a stop to buying anymore distracting non WR items. If I hadn't already had something on today I'd have nipped along to Burton to have a proper look myself and to say hello, the same goes for tomorrow too as a long planned photo expedition of old WR haunts with a work mate takes priority since our days off have at last coincided. Mind you, since our little jaunt takes us past Swindon Museum it wouldn't hurt to pop in and get my name down for a Desert Sand beastie, providing of course they haven't all been snapped up!

 

Well a few minor things to sort but it looks to be well on the way - and it looks like I shall be getting one of the first ones as my name went down for one at Swindon on the day they released details of their limited edition. Talking of that NIdge the last time I heard anything from them about 40-50% of their planned production had been ordered so I expect there will still be some on offer, if you're quick enough now the EP has broken cover and DD has noted that Swindon's are top of his list.

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Hi guys,

 

Steam are well over 50 % pre sold on their 2 versions of D1000, so don't hang around if you want one.

 

I can confirm that this loco WILL come with factory fitted number, name and lion plates.

 

Those who know the quality will be reassured that the plates will all be from Shawplan, using his latest etches. The lion emblem is exquisite.

 

Cheers

Dave

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It just shows that no matter how good the CAD is someone can go and do something different!

I think the ref to quote in such cases... from experience is MIL-TFD-1111-S

 

Make it like the flaming drawing for once .

 

Looks to be a promising start though. Thanks to Dave/Andy for the posting on here esp for those of us that had other non-railway or model railway related activities to attend to this weekend.

Edited by Jon020
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It will be by the time I've finished with it! :D

Don't encourage him... he'll have it fully sprung by Christmas :superman:

 

I'm only jealous Justin... trying to follow where you've led.

Edited by Jon020
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Dave - just a quick note about the batterybox door clips.... I think I know what you're getting at, but since the later style clips were only fitted to the remaining locos in 1974 after D1007's derailment, they will all be in blue livery anyway. All your maroon / green / golden ochre / desert sand releases should have the earlier peardrop shaped clips.... the tricky bit comes when folk want to be 100% accurate with those blue liveried locos in the 1967-74 period!

 

A nice Desert Sand D1000 ordered today via Swindon... lovely!

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Don't encourage him... he'll have it fully sprung by Christmas :superman:

 

I'm only jealous Justin... trying to follow where you've led.

 

You really should try it sometime. The results are great and it's not as hard as it might look. Dive in at the deep end. You'll swim! :)

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You really should try it sometime. The results are great and it's not as hard as it might look. Dive in at the deep end. You'll swim! :)

Justin... I've already signed up for an Ian Penberth kit... so the slippery slope beckons.

:offtopic: sorry about that!

Edited by Jon020
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Justin... I've already signed up for an Ian Penberth kit... so the slippery slope beckons.

:offtopic: sorry about that!

 

Nothing to be sorry about! They look as if they'll be pretty straightforward to put together and set up. I'll look forward to your blog entries on how you you get on with them. If there anything like mine you wont be disapointed.

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Hi Dave,

 

It is looking very promising to my eyes and is certainly a better starting point than what has come before.

 

I think others have picked up on the more obvious issues like the size of the headboard clips and the thickness of the side window pillars, which do look a bit thick to me. Looking at mine, it is barely 1mm from the edge of the pillar over the window frame to the start of the glass. The middle pillar looks a bit thick as well, as is the distance from the top edge of the window opening to the base of the roof, which is primarily the thickness of the window frame plus a little more at the outer edges on the prototype.

 

Perhaps the most irksome issue for me is the location of the split line for the chassis at the very bottom of the body panels. Is there no way that this could be slightly lower so that it cuts through the tapered bit that links the body to the valences. This will at least make the joint less visible from normal viewing angles and shouldn't result in the chassis needing to be any narower.

 

The front of the bogie suspension beam should have a step at the front and the top of the springs look a bit strange directly beneath the 'T' shaped Reaction Link. I think it might just be the housing at the top of the spring being an odd shape.

 

I can't see the beading around the edge of the recess for the buffer beam, particularly at the lower edge.

 

I think those are all the negatives I can see at this stage.

 

On the plus side, the bodyside grills look very good, especially with the correct spacing at the top each grill, which is a major characteristic. The detail on the bogies looks good and the cutout step relative to the cab doors is correctly offset. The rain strip at the top of the door and drip edge on the bottom are well represented.

 

The views of the front really capture the subtle look of the real thing, so overall, I think this is looking to be a pretty good start.

 

Regards

 

Mark Humphrys

 

 

 

Hi guys,

 

Thanks for the comments and kind words.

 

The buffers are just some rubbish they had kicking around in china, hence the shape as they are loath to cast them before I have signed off on them in case I don't like them.

 

Can't wait forMark "the guru's" comments

Cheers

Dave

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Perhaps the most irksome issue for me is the location of the split line for the chassis at the very bottom of the body panels.

At last... someone else sees what I think will show up very badly when the body is painted - that body/chassis join is going to stand out, and be very difficulty to disguise.

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Wow. I'm not a Western "fan" so I have not been paying close attention to this tread, but what I'm most impressed with is that given there is nothing to give a sense of scale in the EP photos in posts nos. 598 and 600, it is very difficult for me to tell if these are pictures of OO or N scale models.

 

I'm guessing OO solely based on the fineness of the wire handholds, but the point of this post is that Dapol's (and Farish's, too) N gauge models have gotten so good in the past couple years modelers of the smaller scale have come to expect they won't have to give up anything detail-wise compared to the larger one.

 

Whatever the scale, well done. I'm looking forward to a Cl 40 being done to this high standard - in N of course!

 

Matt

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