Idiot question about cutting flexitrack to length

[stu s]

Hi Chaps,

 

Very new around here as you can see. Have modelled bits and bobs over the years bu have never ever laid flexi track!

 

Last night saw me laying the points and my first length of flexi.... which will be promptly taken back up tonight having made a right lash of it!!

 

Whats the knack or process to laying flexi? How do I cut it to the correct length on both legs first time every time or is it a case of "sneaking up" on the correct length?

 

Many apologies for the daft questions...

 

Stu

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

There are probably as many ways as there are flexitrack users.

 

I draw out on the surface the track alignments required, and typically starting from a fixed location such as a piece of point work, then put down the lengths of track, using drawing pins between the sleepers to lightly clamp the track in place.

 

When curves are formed the overlength inside rail which appears at the open emd, is trimmed off square using the sleepers as a guide.

 

When another piece of point work is reached, it is lightly pinned down in the correct position, and the track meeting it formed to suit, and the excess sleepers and rail ends trimmed off.

 

Basically it is all 'try the fit' handwork with lots of sighting to ensure that the formation flows smoothly, and once satisfied trim to length as required. Once the track is in place it is glued down with dilute PVA, enabling the drawing pins to be reused on the next length to be laid.

[edcayton]

but how do you make a neat job of cutting the rail? I have used a fine saw (razor saw?) together with a home -made jig to hold the track while I cut the rail and it feels a bit brutal. I have not used a Xuron(?) cutter and would be interested to hear people's thoughts on these. I have fairly recently acquired a Dremel and I suspect this may be easier, but slower than my hand saw.

 

Ed

[ajdown]

The 'Tracksetta' templates can be of great help when laying flexitrack, to keep things either straight or even curved. Oh, and the little Peco double track spacer is invaluable too to keep the tracks the correct distance apart.

 

I use the Xuron cutters - but don't be tempted to use them to push or pull pins or anything else as you'll damage the sharp edges and render them useless eventually.

[edcayton]

I have used home made templates for curves-I made them a bit smaller than the desired radius and laid the inside edge of the sleepers against the template. I use a straight edge of some kind for straight track. I would guess tracksetta gauges are easier because tou put the pins through the gauge whilst the gauge holds the track in place.It seems expensive to buy a full set of these though, and you only have a finite number of radii. How long do the Xurons last if you don't use them for getting stones out of horse's hooves?

If the curve radius is tight then I think that settrack gives a better result, I have to say that I find kinks in the track very off-putting (on th prototype as well!)

 

It occurs to me that the OP is a newcomer, and that this may be like Chinese to him. Could someone cleverer than me post some pictures or provide a link to some?

 

Thanks, Ed

[Ragtag]

I never could get away with using a razor saw on flexitrack. I used a disc cutter on mine, though it can take a little practice to get a straight edge to the end of the track (there's a tendency to cut at an angle). Otherwise I do it in much the same way, although I use old Hornby track pins rather than drawing pins (purely because I had them in the toolbox).

[edcayton]

I forgot to say that the double track spacer gauge is useful, but don't forget that at train set redii you must use the wider gap or trains will hit each other. I found this to my cost many years ago ans it meant I could only use one track at a time!

[edcayton]

Me again. Only to say that there is no such thing as an idiot question.The only idiots are the people who treat you like an idiot for asking, and they are not worth bothering with. Thankfully there are very few of these on RMweb.

[Ragtag]

Me again. Only to say that there is no such thing as an idiot question.The only idiots are the people who treat you like an idiot for asking, and they are not worth bothering with. Thankfully there are very few of these on RMweb.

 

Seconded. I've always found the membership to be very helpful, even with questions which may seem obvious to the experienced modeller (I recently returned to the hobby myself and DCC took some getting to grips with.)

[Kenton]

Probably a few different ways of doing it but this is the way I do it:

 

I connect one end of the track to its fixed (connected track) using the usual metal fishplates/connectors (use metal ones EVEN if you are going to replace with insulated ones as they are a tighter fit) ensure the joint is closed.

 

At the other end (if it is also fixed position the flexitrack immediately inline above the fixed track and mark the cut positions with a triangular file about 1mm further on.

 

remove track

 

cut track with a piercing saw (it gives a better cut) or a dremel cutter (if you can hold it really steady) just behind the mark

 

gently file the edges either side to take the sharpness off them - NEVER the rail surface.

 

It is advisable not to join flexitrack to other flexitrack on a curve - especially a sharp one.

If doing sidings start from the pointwork and end with the straight

[Oldddudders]

I always found a hacksaw would cut rail ok, but the back-and-forth made it a racing certainty that the sleepers and local environment would suffer in the act! Peco Code 100 endures this fairly well, but Code 75 and 83 less so, and N scale track must be a real challenge. Xuron snips work quite well, but be prepared to do a bit of filing on the railend if you want to attach rail-joiners. This also applies to the Dremel (or Dremel clone) method, which is perhaps the least disruptive on site, but absolutely MUST be used with eye-protection - when a cutting disc explodes, as they do, bits go everywhere, and you're wearing your last set of eyes now!

[beast66606]

A tip hinted at by Kenton (possibly without realising !) is not to cut the rails square on curves (unless you want to model prototype, if it's hidden then that doesn't matter)

 

Lets imagine laying a length from the straight and into the curve - using tracksettas or the like to get the radius - the inner rail will be overhanging the end, get the next piece of track and pull back the inner rail, leaving the outer rail and sleepers with fastenings in place, then feed the *already laid* inner rail onto these sleepers, this means the joints will have the sleepers available to hold the alignment and the joints will be offset, giving a smoother run through the curve. Once the curve is "done", which might be after several such joints, square the end off at the straight piece.

 

Hope this makes sense

[Etched Pixels]

I use the Xuron cutters (plus safety glasses if you are cutting just a tiny bit off because the ends can leave at remarkably velocity.

 

I lay the pointwork first then start from the points working down the track. I don't trim the ends of the rails until I reach another point. If I need more than one length I just stagger the joint and thread one rail onto the sleepers of the other. That also makes it stronger and less likely to kink on the joins. As I go round I lightly pin some of the sleepers to hold the shape then when I get to the next point cut the track a tiny bit too long and then trim/file it back until it meets with a very small gap.

[Ragtag]

Aye, safety glasses are a must with disc cutters. I thought I'd be fine with my normal specs but had a very near miss when one of the discs shattered. Let's just say I'm glad my blink reflex is good. Staggering the joints I've found to be virtually essential on sharper corners, though I must admit I didn't bother on the straights.

[Dave777]

Another vote for Xurons here - it's night and day compared with using a razor saw to cut rails. A worthwhile investment, just make sure you look after them and don't start using them for any old cutting job. Just get an ordinary pair of cutters from your local DIY emporium for that.

 

Snip the rails and file down - faster and neater than a saw.

 

 

Even with Xurons I'd watch your eyes though - buy one less wagon and spend the money on a pair of safety glasses instead.

 

 

[stu s]

Hi Chaps. Putting my faith in technology and attempting to reply from my Blackberry.. Fingers crossed!

Firstly many thanks for so many constructive and helpful replies.. True testament to a smashing forum run and used by enthusiasts!

The layout I am starting is a shunting style yard scene so thankfully doesn't need nice accurate sweeping high speed curves and thus Tracksetta's *phew*

The majority of the flexi track has staggered ends to the rails out of the box . What I did last night (probably the mistake I made) was to bend the track to shape, then try to trim it to length with the Xurons (superb bit of kit!). This resulted in me test fitting/disconnecting and trimming then test fitting multiple times which has now slackened the joiners. I know its just a case of crimping them up again with the pliers but now I have read your replies I can see what I did wrong!

Trim the rail ends/sleepers level, connect to pointwork, bend to shape, lightly pin, TRIM!

Then paint, ballast, paint again then start on other scenics.. I think!

I can't wait to get home now and get another length down on the board!

I learned not to pre-paint the flexi the hard way too!

 

I took some pictures of the work in progress this morning so will have a bash at starting a layout thread at somepoint this week..

 

Many thanks again,

 

Stu

[chertsey chopper]

I "trial position" my track into place using Peco track pins but don't press all the way in, just enough to get the bend. If you've one end longer then mark it square with a scriber, cut the track in place and test for correct length by offering up the point or whatever. Remove the pins and pull up enough of the track portion. Next step is to de-burr the cut track end with a small but capable file. Test that the fish-plates fit on firmly, then you're ready for the next section. I just use a standard pair of electricians' side-cutters, and file my track ends square...never had a problem. I also support the "slightly over-cutting" theory, as it's easy to trim it down if necessary.

I dont glue anything in place until I'm finished with the track entirely. Pins can always be removed after fixing.

 

jules

[Il Grifone]

I use a fine X-Acto razor saw for track cutting (the finest you can get - the more teeth per inch the better). An old track gauge will hold the rails steady, or you can made a block. The advantage of flexible track is the possibility of prototypical transition curves and making the track fit the location rather than the other way round as with sectional track. Curve setting gauges negate this. I've always laid track by sighting along the rails (even sectional). Nasty doglegs are easily avoided this way.

 

At joints stagger on sharp curves if you must, but curving the rail rather than relying on pins or glue will allow the track to stay put. One day I may get around to posting some photos of my efforts. The track is laid temporarily on the latest without fixings, but there is little movement. Remove the rail fixings on the sleepers adjacent to the joint to leave room for the joiners. Feel for irregularities at the joint - don't rely on eyesight - especially if your eyesight is like mine. And I endorse the use of eye protection. My glasses have saved me many times.

[BR60103]

I staggered the rail joints on one layout -- never again.

Before you trim the rail ends, check that they are all tight in the previous rail joiners and haven't slipped out as you curved the track.

When you meet the next piece of fixed track (e.g. points) you will probably have to take a couple of tries to get the ends perfect. Better than ending up 1/8" short and having to put a filler in the joiner.

I have a couple of tools (American) that are plastic and have slots to fit over the rail heads. They keep the rails from moving under the saw and ripping out of the chairs. They also give nice square opposite joints.

I find that any tool I've used leaves the rail end a little ragged or twisted and it needs cleaning up with a file. I've gotten to where I can tidy up with a cutting disk in a Dremel. Gently.

[philiprporter]

Very fine razor saw would be my chosen tool - I've always found the Dremel/slitting disk option too brutal (and when they shatter its scary!), while for cutting joints where track has been laid across a baseboard joint the gap left is too large for me, whereas the razor saw leaves a very narrow gap. I usually also end up cutting joints at an angle with a slitting disc too - my ineptitude more than anything else I would say. Encouraged by reports of the Xuron cutturs here - have to confess to not having tried these but am tempted now.

[David Rickard]

I tried using my Dremel-alike with a cutting disk, and the issue I had was I couldn't do it in situ, as the drill would come down at an angle, thus causing the cut to be angled! Plus the potential for it exploding into bits never really appealed.

 

I've got a small block of wood with two slits in it to match the rails. I lay the track into it, then clamp it all in a vice. Then I just use a hacksaw to cut the rails, and file it up.

 

My biggest issue is that I'm a menace with a saw, and can't cut a straight line for toffee, so my rails have a few gaps. That'll be sorted as I'm re-laying track and tidying stuff up big time. I considered the track cutting pliers, but they're quite pricey considering how versatile they aren't. I did find using a good quality fine hacksaw blade made a LOT of difference when I was cutting the board joins the other day, so I think I'll get some new blades.

[Il Grifone]

Buy good quality saw blades. The cheap Chinese blades are useless. Like Swann-Morton knife blades, good saw blades are sharper when it's time to throw them away than the others are new.

 

Hacksaw blades are a bit coarse for rail though they do the job. The X-Acto type are finer and cut more cleanly.

[Dave777]

I considered the track cutting pliers, but they're quite pricey considering how versatile they aren't.

 

This is true, they are quite pricey, but I've built 3 layouts with them, and will easily get another 3 more layouts out of them, so the ??14 odd amount I paid starts spreading out at a couple of quid per layout...

[stu s]

Thank you all very much for your hugely useful replies!

 

The track is probably 3/4's cut and shaped now.. point work pinned ready for ballast. Track loose laid prior to a test run..

 

Need to have a chat with Richard at the shop today to suss out trackwidth spacing for the loco shed then the right hand end can be shaped.

 

The Xuron's have performed really well! Worth the 12 quid investment.

 

I think based on people's experiences here with dremmel-type cutting of baseboard joins I will resort to a razor saw to cut the track joints.

 

Again thankyou! Your combined advice enabled me to cut and shape the flexi and learn "the knack"

 

Stu