dibateg Posted August 28, 2017 Author Share Posted August 28, 2017 The Fruit D has proved to be a bit of a trial. Firstly I couldn't get the colour right, then the transfers didn't work well. After that the masking pulled half of them off and I went round in ever decreasing circles trying to patch it until I gave up and stripped the whole blasted lot off with meths to start again - although I think I was close to drinking it by this time. Sometimes the only way is to start again. I've been using the Badger 150 to spray cellulose, but I suspect the super flow thinners attacks the rubber washer on the air valve as it has failed again. So after some research and some excellent advice from Paul at modellingtools.co.uk ( an unashamed plug, because I was very pleased with the helpful service over the phone and they also do those excellent emery sticks ) I bought a Sparmax GP825 spray gun, which is just the ticket for spraying cellulose. It works an absolute treat. So the Fruit D and I are a lot happier this morning. I also got quick release connections for the Badger hose connection ( I didn't know such things existed ) - it makes life so much easier. The Badger has been busy on more appropriate work though with this excellent Little Loco Co. class 15. What a pity they were not in the East Midlands.. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 Hi Tony, I like the look of that Sparmax spray gun, is the spray area adjustable? Regarding the Fruit D, I also have one that has been waiting for a coat of paint for quite a while now. Anyhow I remember a while back a discussion relating to whether the ends of the vans were painted black. Well I had a look at the two vans on the ESR as they are still awaiting renovation and it looked like the flaking layers showed that the ends were the same colour as the sides. However I was watching a coloured video of Paddington in the early 60's and there in the background was a Fruit D showing the ends in black, so it looks like whatever was to hand at the time in the paint shops. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted August 28, 2017 Author Share Posted August 28, 2017 (edited) Multiple Google searches turned up mostly black and white photos Martyn. The official BR spec was to have black ends, although it seems they were all over brown in GW days. I found this excellent photo in the 53A models collection on this page:- https://www.flickr.com/photos/blue-diesels/albums/72157604635404420/page22 I'm pretty sure it has black ends. Like loco liveries though, there must have been exceptions to the rules, so maybe all over maroon ones occurred. The Sparmax comes with an 0.5mm nozzle which seemed just right for 7mm scale vehicles. Other sizes are freely available. I really just want it for doing overall colours. See you at Guildex? Regards Tony Edited August 28, 2017 by dibateg 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 Hi Tony, Well that's the clearest photo that I have seen, and yes they look like they are black which looks nicer in my opinion, that one looks like it's also still got the gas pipes on the roof for the lighting. Yes I will be attending Telford, look forward to seeing you there. Cheers, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted September 16, 2017 Author Share Posted September 16, 2017 Back on the workbench for a couple of days and it was time to finish the Armstrong after getting it back from Warren. It was about 2 days work to re-assemble it finish the build. Just a track test left to do:- 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 I've been trying to finish off various small jobs and at last I think the WEPs are done. The Fruit D, it looks a bit clean really:- And the Beetle in faded crimson:- 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted September 28, 2017 Author Share Posted September 28, 2017 (edited) So it is back to the GUVs. The BR models underframes just came as a set of etches. I managed to get a set of castings from MMP ( not normally available ) for a reasonable price and these have been supplemented with a few items from JLTRT such as the regulators and buffer beam pipe work. I had to scratch up some of the mounting points and framework, and also made up a representation of the brake rodding. Interestingly the BR ones took about three quarters of the time of the MMP one - which is a lot more comprehensive, but not as much a difference in time as I expected. There is a substantial casting for the hook in the MMP kit, but I was not comfortable with a white metal hook. Having time to think about it, I cut a slot down the centre of the tapered section and soldered in with 100 degree solder a CPL coupling hook. Edited September 28, 2017 by dibateg 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 I've been pressing on with the GUV and I decided against using the cast door hinges and used 6941 etched ones instead as I wanted a finer appearance. The door handle is Sidelines and the latching handle scratched up from brass wire bent with a sharp angle and the face filed flat. Ooh! Look at all those horrible solder blobs on the inside - don't worry those will be ground off for the interior to drop in. The roof is not easy to fit, once I've resolved that, it will be cleaned up. This GUV at Llangollen gives you the idea:- 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 (edited) The Fruit D has proved to be a bit of a trial. Firstly I couldn't get the colour right, then the transfers didn't work well. After that the masking pulled half of them off and I went round in ever decreasing circles trying to patch it until I gave up and stripped the whole blasted lot off with meths to start again - although I think I was close to drinking it by this time. Sometimes the only way is to start again. I've been using the Badger 150 to spray cellulose, but I suspect the super flow thinners attacks the rubber washer on the air valve as it has failed again. So after some research and some excellent advice from Paul at modellingtools.co.uk ( an unashamed plug, because I was very pleased with the helpful service over the phone and they also do those excellent emery sticks ) I bought a Sparmax GP825 spray gun, which is just the ticket for spraying cellulose. It works an absolute treat. So the Fruit D and I are a lot happier this morning. I also got quick release connections for the Badger hose connection ( I didn't know such things existed ) - it makes life so much easier. P1040455.JPG The Badger has been busy on more appropriate work though with this excellent Little Loco Co. class 15. What a pity they were not in the East Midlands.. P1040453.JPG Hi everyone, Great thread and superb modelling, Im enjoying catching up on it. For information and for anyone interested in Sparmax. I have the Sparmax GP50 a great airbrush with handle and ideal for 7mm models, used it on and off for - gosh, darn time flies - three or so years, and it was great value for money too, I was lucky that, with my enquiries, 'Everything Airbrush' (usual caveats apply) decided to import/place a larger order than normal with Sparmax and I ended up with the GP50 (0.5). Sparmax make top quality compressors and make, under licence, airbrushes for, IIRC, Iwata (Neo) et al. Sometimes, if one is lucky then 'spray-tan-booth' branded Sparmax GP airbrushes can be had for even less money, buyer beware though as there are Chinese lookalikes. Sparmax spares are available too. The grip/handle may not be quite as pretty as Iwata's or Neo's but nevertheless it is comfortable enough and helps keep the job comfortable for painting larger areas (7mm models). I dont airbrush a lot, so I like airbrushes that are easy to live with, with a removable paint cup cleaning is straightforward too as each time I pack an airbrush away, I like to make sure it's spotless as I dont know when I will be using it next (particularly important when using acrylics). If buying an airbrush always check on the seal/washer types within, ie that it is compatible with all types of solvent based paint, especially for cellulose and the more aggressive solvent based products (I hope Im not teaching anyone to suck eggs). I have also had great service from modellingtools and Air-craft.net, the latter were particularly helpful with my other airbrushes, they went above and beyond with advice and pricing. I hope that helps. Kind regards, CME Edited October 5, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 6, 2017 Author Share Posted October 6, 2017 Thanks Martin - its always good to get another view. It took a while to get the roof to fit on to the body and I found it to be a little flimsy, even when located on to the tabs at the tops of the sides. I also managed to achieve a slight bow, so there was no way it would sit down in the middle of the coach. So I put some 'U' section stretchers across with some threaded bar to go through holes in the floor. There are 8 of these, the stretchers support the roof and sides and prevent bowing in when the coach is picked up. With a little patient tweaking it will drop straight in and the roof can be drawn down nicely. There is some fiddling to make sure the long tabs don't drop down the outside of the side and potentially scratch the paint when it is on... Having the rods inside what should be an open vehicle, is a nuisance, but with modelling there are inevitably compromises at times. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 (edited) Hi Tony, You are most welcome, Sparmax are a great brand. Coach and NPS roofs, in this scale (and the larger scales in general), can be a chore. Ive seen many ways of attaching such for different types/sizes of stock and there appears to be no 'one solution fits all'. Some kit manufacturers seem to give little consideration to such, especially when one is endeavouring to affix disimilar metals/materials, let alone having a removable roof! In SM32 on smaller items of stock I have fitted magnets in the past... Your compromise looks to be a fair one-strategically placed matt black (lack of colour/false shading) in the depths can, at times, be a modeller's best friend. I chickened out, my GUV is RTR from Heljan, but securing wayward windows, roof fettling, better bogies and dynamo etc will be required though, good job I have a spare parts box! Kindest regards, M. Edited October 6, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 Hi everyone, Great thread and superb modelling, Im enjoying catching up on it. For information and for anyone interested in Sparmax. I have the Sparmax GP50 a great airbrush with handle and ideal for 7mm models, used it on and off for - gosh, darn time flies - three or so years, and it was great value for money too, I was lucky that, with my enquiries, 'Everything Airbrush' (usual caveats apply) decided to import/place a larger order than normal with Sparmax and I ended up with the GP50 (0.5). Sparmax make top quality compressors and make, under licence, airbrushes for, IIRC, Iwata (Neo) et al. Sometimes, if one is lucky then 'spray-tan-booth' branded Sparmax GP airbrushes can be had for even less money, buyer beware though as there are Chinese lookalikes. Sparmax spares are available too. The grip/handle may not be quite as pretty as Iwata's or Neo's but nevertheless it is comfortable enough and helps keep the job comfortable for painting larger areas (7mm models). I dont airbrush a lot, so I like airbrushes that are easy to live with, with a removable paint cup cleaning is straightforward too as each time I pack an airbrush away, I like to make sure it's spotless as I dont know when I will be using it next (particularly important when using acrylics). If buying an airbrush always check on the seal/washer types within, ie that it is compatible with all types of solvent based paint, especially for cellulose and the more aggressive solvent based products (I hope Im not teaching anyone to suck eggs). I have also had great service from modellingtools and Air-craft.net, the latter were particularly helpful with my other airbrushes, they went above and beyond with advice and pricing. I hope that helps. Kind regards, CME I agree. Great thread and great build. Looking forward to the next loco. On Sparmax air brushes, I have sourced parts direct from the manufacturer via their website. They are very accommodating. I sourced the parts to convert my GP70 to the 35, 50 and 825. Just an indulgence on my part and not really need but good to have. Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 I agree. Great thread and great build. Looking forward to the next loco. On Sparmax air brushes, I have sourced parts direct from the manufacturer via their website. They are very accommodating. I sourced the parts to convert my GP70 to the 35, 50 and 825. Just an indulgence on my part and not really need but good to have. Cheers, Peter Hi, Agreed. I have similar set up for my H&S airbrushes.... Kindest regards, CME. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 Back on post 63 (!) we were talking about the Derby Line extension, at last work is in progress - in fact the walls are on now. This was the steelwork going up last week. My neighbour is doing the work - hence the Manitou arm over the hedge! It's like Spain here - it takes a long time for things to happen... So I will also have to find time to build the railway as well as the trains! 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 21, 2017 Author Share Posted October 21, 2017 After a break of a week or so I'm finally back at it and it was time to tackle that roof. So after a prolonged struggle this morning:- The downwards projecting tabs are supposed to drop between the inner and outer skins. I don't think there was any way that I could manage that, because the interior either flopped too far in or too far out against the side. Also the interior, with no partitions, tended to flop inwards at the top. So I put stretchers across the tops ( as Heather did ) to hold the sides apart. This allowed me to remove those tags and rely on the upwards pointing tabs to locate in slots in the underside of the rainstrip. I also made some hefty floor strengtheners out of thick nickel silver. These were soldered on the inside of the floor to stop it distorting when the roof rod nuts are tightened. There is room under the interior floor. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 Whilst the MMP GUV is away being painted, and my GUVs are awaiting a decent spell of weather, I'm on with the next commission, a JLTRT Warship D602. I started with the bogies and first thing that I noticed is that the Warships didn't have the flange that is on the big box bits at the outer end. A Google image search confirmed this, so I took them off. I'm assuming the bogies are similar to 10000 and that loco did have them. I'm enjoying the build and its a nice change to be wielding the superglue rather than a soldering iron.. and its going together nicely. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 What is with the red crosses? Is that where the treasure is hidden? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 26, 2017 Author Share Posted October 26, 2017 I was going to reject that one, but it is actually ok... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 27, 2017 Author Share Posted October 27, 2017 In the meantime I've put in the laser cut glazing ( which fits a treat ) and masked up ready for painting. I'm in the process of adding the cast details to the noses. Yes - I broke the spigot off one of the white metal castings - I had it upside down. I'll drill out and make a brass wire post for it to sit on. I'm enjoying this! Some of the spigots on the castings are a bit short for me, so I file them a bit longer from the sprue if I can. Then they are cut off with a piercing saw. Resist the temptation to use cutters, they tend to distort the spigot too much and it won't then fit easily in the intended hole. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 So you are enjoying this? That must be the treasure. Well it is a big box. Stand well back as hydraulic fans explode. It is coming together nicely, are you trying to get it ready for warley? Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 27, 2017 Author Share Posted October 27, 2017 No - I won't be at Warley Richard and it will be going off to the painter in a month or so.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 30, 2017 Author Share Posted October 30, 2017 So here is a picture that shows more detail on the bogies. The middle and outer axles have Slaters plunger pick ups with shortened springs. Wipers are used on the motor axle. The middle axle is floating and is sprung with wire which rests on groves filed into the axle bearings. A short length of 1.5mm square brass soldered behind the flange fits in the slot and prevents the bearing from turning. A delrin chain is used to connect the outer axles, the cog on the motor axle had to be narrowed by cutting some off. The motor/gearbox is a Slaters GB13. A pcb pad on each bogie is used to distribute the power. The side frames are held on with nuts and screws. The right hand one will have them fitted shortly. Just a few final details to add, bits of pipe etc.. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 (edited) Tony, Cracking work-as always-can I ask, in your opinion, are the ABC type gearboxes & gears, worth the extra money? Kindest regards, CME Edited October 30, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 30, 2017 Author Share Posted October 30, 2017 (edited) I have an ABC one for my class 40 Martin - although I've not built that loco yet, so it's difficult to comment although it's an impressive piece of engineering., and with my preference to have both bogies powered, I think I need to save up for another one... I have a friend that fitted a pair to his D600 - they were bespoke and expensive, but he is pleased with them - the quote is 'extremely smooth' Regards Tony Edited October 30, 2017 by dibateg 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted November 6, 2017 Author Share Posted November 6, 2017 D602 is longer than my photographic stage ( 65 feet over buffers ) ! It has a lot of character. The body parts are well detailed and fit together ok - there was a minor bit of filling to do where the cabs fit. So, not much more to do and she'll be ready for the paint shop. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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