dibateg Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 I wasn't fully happy with the GUV roof - there was a thin bead of light visible along the join from the inside. I also discovered that I'd put the roof on the wrong way round from the original build. The top of the interior is a smidge lower than the outer sides, so it was possible to create a small rebate by running 3 strips of roof tape along the underside of the gutter. This would sit behind the top of the outer sides and with any luck gently compress on to the top of the inner side. It seems to work.. after 4 attempts to get the roof to sit right. We also had a discussion about the window bars, in the colour photos we have, they didn't seem to be cream coloured, and a browse through my colour books suggested that also some of the maroon vehicles had them in the body colour. Anyway, it looks better after repainting them. So continuing the MMP theme - I'm now on a class 'B' tank. Having built two of these before, it's a nice little build. With a lot of small pieces of course, but they all fit. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Nice 3500g intermediate tender, but I'm fascinated to know why the toolboxes are wrong. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 11, 2018 Author Share Posted January 11, 2018 The toolboxes I think are for a larger tender and are not tall enough and should have plain lids. I managed to get a set of 'A' shop etched toolboxes of the correct pattern. They look a lot better:- 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Lovely work! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigw Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 The toolboxes I think are for a larger tender and are not tall enough and should have plain lids. I managed to get a set of 'A' shop etched toolboxes of the correct pattern. They look a lot better:- P1040732.JPG Can you post a side on view of the tender? From this angle it looks like it has the earlier curved springs rather than the heavier ones fitted from the mid 1920s. I would think the intermediate ones were built with the new springs, but they would certainly have been fitted by the 1950s. Regards, Craig W Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 Thanks Craig - My ignorance of GW matters again! This is what it looks like:- If its wrong - what should it look like? And I wonder who would do the right castings, I have 2 weeks before the loco goes off to the painter.... Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigw Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 Thanks Craig - My ignorance of GW matters again! This is what it looks like:- Tender axlebox.jpg If its wrong - what should it look like? And I wonder who would do the right castings, I have 2 weeks before the loco goes off to the painter.... Regards Tony Hi Tony, Please see attached my very cruel macro photo of the Mitchell 3500 gallon tender I am building in 4 mm scale. This type of spring was introduced in about 1925 (first used on 3500 gallon fitted Castle class) and steadily replaced the earlier springs and was near universal by the mid - late 1930s. I have yet to see a photo of the earlier type after WW2. Hope it helps, you would kick yourself if you found out after painting! Regards, Craig W Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 (edited) Craig is right that the heavier springs were more common on many tenders from the mid-1920s. Here is a 3500g intermediate tender top on an early-style underframe, behind a Collett Goods in BR days: 7mm heavy springs are included in JLTRT kits, and I think in a Mitchell 4000g kit, but I am not aware of any heavy springs being available separately. More info on GWR tenders here. I haven't been able yet to pinpoint when the heavier springs began to make an appearance, but it could have been as early as 1919. (There were numerous 3500g lots.) Edited January 13, 2018 by Miss Prism Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 (edited) Tony, I would suggest having a chat with Warren Shephard, given that he does a kit for the 4000g tender, and that would have had the deep springs by definition. The guys at Finney7 will almost certainly have the masters for them as well, for much the same reason, but whether they are in a position to make any castings from them yet may be another matter. Jim Edited January 13, 2018 by jim.snowdon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 Thank you chaps for your kind assistance - I'm on the case! Tony 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 21, 2018 Author Share Posted January 21, 2018 A terrible shot - but just to report that the tender spring issue has been resolved. Excellent service as usual from JLTRT, Laurie very kindly sent some new castings, which arrived very quickly. The next project lurks in the background... 15 ABS iron ore tipplers... Thanks again for your assistance chaps. 18 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 23, 2018 Author Share Posted January 23, 2018 The MMP tank was finished, it didn't take too long and these kits fit together perfectly. It's now off to Paul Moore for painting:- 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 The MMP tank was finished, it didn't take too long and these kits fit together perfectly. It's now off to Paul Moore for painting:- P1040747.JPG Very nice indeed! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 Flu put me out of action for a while - but the Manor was finished and has gone to the painter. D602 Came back from Paul Moore, and is just being finished off before going to it's new home. Next on the stocks is JLTRT Hall - Shirenewton Hall - the frames are well under way. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Busy man even with the flu. Hope you have kicked it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share Posted February 16, 2018 Thanks Richard - it's taking me a while to get back from this flu, I seem to be very sleepy. I'm baffled by one or two things on this loco, the smokebox saddle doesn't seem quite right, I think it should have a flange all the way round... The sanding rod should have a crank behind the drop link for the reverser, I have no detail on what that actually looks like, I can't find anything in the kit for it. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted February 19, 2018 Author Share Posted February 19, 2018 So... a test assembly with the wheels - this one has to get around 4 foot radius too... The cab goes together nicely, although some trimming was required for the window frames. Persistent Google searching eventually found images of detail that I required for the running plate, there is a little tidying up needed, but it's nearly there. Top feed pipes take a variety of routes through the running plate. On this particular loco they are towards the rear of the trailing splasher. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 Hi Tony, Glad you are on the mend, go kindly with yourself, that flu is quite harsh, takes time to recover. 4' radius? Isnt that tight for a large kettle? Atvb, CME Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 So I've been cracking on with getting the boiler installed and adding the detail. It's almost ready to come off the cradle now.. The boiler is held in place with self tapping screws. Loctite 480 is used for the small details. Next step is the cylinders and I suspect the glands should be set at an angle but with JLTRT closed for the moment these will have to do. That's a pity as JLTRT have moved O gauge along and I have had a least half a dozen JLTRT commissions. Laurie is always extremely helpful, I hope that it works out in a positive way. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Hi Tony, I have only used Loctite 601 before, I note you have used the 480 do you use this instead of super glue or Araldite? All the best, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 Hi Martyn - I use 480 for gluing in small parts - instead of superglue. I use 5 minute epoxy for larger items. Martin - The flu took at least a week to get over, so that with a week out of action took some days out of my diary! 4 foot radius is tight for a kettle - that's what my client wants, and it can be done just with a few compromises.. Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 Hi Tony, Looking good as always. I like the oil pots on the upper slide bars. Are they integrally cast or added separately? Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Boucher Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 So... a test assembly with the wheels - this one has to get around 4 foot radius too... P1040798.JPG How much side-to-side play do you have in the axles to get around a 4' radius? I have to get an engine around a 5' radius, so I'm wondering how much play I should be looking at... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 Hi Martyn - I use 480 for gluing in small parts - instead of superglue. I use 5 minute epoxy for larger items. Martin - The flu took at least a week to get over, so that with a week out of action took some days out of my diary! 4 foot radius is tight for a kettle - that's what my client wants, and it can be done just with a few compromises.. Regards Tony Hi Tony, Glad youre on the mend. The client is always right and needs must.... ATVB M. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 That all depends on the length of the wheelbase. A short wheelbase loco on peco track, does not need much side play on the centre axle. Best to try and keep the front and rear axles with nine if possible. It stops the loco waddling down the track. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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