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16t minerals


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The Bachmann 16 tonners are a very easy conversion to EM. I covered it on my blog

 

I'm told you don't even need to go to the stage of moving the brakegear outwards like I did - they'll just bend out slightly to give enough clearance.

 

They do, usually. Interesting that you found the wheels an easy fit, on the ten or so that I EM'd I had to shave off the ribs on the back of the axleguards to allow them to turn. Maybe depends on how much slop there is in the mouldings :unsure:

 

Other than that, they are a nice little model and a very easy way to assemble a train of 16T wagons. That said, the Parkside kits are also relatively easy to put together and offer more modelling input. Horses for courses I guess!

 

The Bachy ones are a very easy way to 'bulk out' the fleet, particularly the overwhelmingly common '1/108' (sic) variant, unfitted with top flaps. I've bought an insane amount of them over the last couple of years, but will still rely on kits for some of the oddities, as they better allow for different doors and running gear to be incorporated

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They do, usually. Interesting that you found the wheels an easy fit, on the ten or so that I EM'd I had to shave off the ribs on the back of the axleguards to allow them to turn. Maybe depends on how much slop there is in the mouldings :unsure:

 

 

Ian,

 

I did have to shave the ribs off the back of the W-irons to get the wheels to fit! I didn't get lucky - I've done about 8 or so now too and have had to do this on each one.

 

Regards

 

Alastair

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Ian,

 

I did have to shave the ribs off the back of the W-irons to get the wheels to fit! I didn't get lucky - I've done about 8 or so now too and have had to do this on each one.

 

Regards

 

Alastair

 

Same here on the few Bachmann wagons that I've EM'd. Rather than move the brake gear out I chamfered the rear of the brake shoes.

Not related to 16t's, I have noticed that some of Bachmanns tank wagons have the brake levers on the wrong sides so that if the brakes are applied the shoes would be pulled away from the wheels.

 

As for Bachmann vs. Parkside, although the Bachmann model is really nice I still prefer the Parkside kit, probably because I like building things.

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Guest Belgian

some more, most of these are Chris Hewitt's

 

092.jpg

crownst-1.jpg

Those are particularly nice shots Mike, I especially like the wagon with the door open, a scene seldom modelled.

 

JE

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I used a mix of 1 part 'rail white', 4 parts matt black and 5 parts BR early bauxite enamels mixed with talcum powder. I dabbed the mix on with a medium stiff brush with splayed bristles. Once it was almost dry (tacky to touch) I painted a random line around the larger patches using a slightly thinned medium rust colour. I then dry brushed downwards immediately with a large, soft brush slightly loaded with a 70/30 black white matt mix. I then added various subtle streaks and runs of fresher/lighter rust colour. For the underframe it was just a case of dry-brushing with black and earth colours along with brake dust and grime colours with a light rust on the iron brake blocks and a very dark grey (graphite like) touch around the greased points.

 

Although a tad blurred the effect is shown on this pic...

 

 

 

 

Regards

 

Stu

 

Al

post-10242-0-20580900-1305449684_thumb.jpg

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You'll have to excuse the 'work in progress' setting. Here's a rake I recently did - this is the N gauge Bachmann/Farish version in mid-to-late 1970s guise (ie, heavily weathered and pretty knackered).

 

I did have links to the exact photos on Paul Bartlett's site that each one was based on, but since the website changed I've not had a need/inclination to try and match them up again. I confess that some were 'hybrids' too - a bit of weathering from one wagon combined with another aspect from another (oh dear, that should have Jim SW shuddering!).

 

post-7489-0-39203300-1305454179_thumb.jpg

 

post-7489-0-53773000-1305454188_thumb.jpg

 

post-7489-0-45666100-1305454195_thumb.jpg

 

post-7489-0-68080300-1305454205_thumb.jpg

 

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post-7489-0-70618600-1305454220_thumb.jpg

 

post-7489-0-01726300-1305454242_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

Here's what we started with :)

 

post-7489-0-84557700-1305454277_thumb.jpg

 

 

Not sure about the replates, I think they may stick out a bit too much (I used paper, perhaps I'll try some thin plasticard). The ad hoc markings are too thick really, they seem to be chalk on the real thing, but even though I used a pin to apply them the markings would still work out at several inches wide if they were scaled up.

 

Hmmm, I can see one that one on the left in the last photo hasn't had the weathering worked into the corners enough - adjustment required!

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OK, New question, who has the most 16 toners? Lets have two categories, one for the most by a single individual, and one for the most for a layout

 

think its best we keep to the theme of detailing models and research of the prototype. by all means tell us how many you have, but its not a chequebook modelling competition

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whats everyones preferences for rust shades?

 

The darker the better AFAIC, as explained here the lighter shades have a place but generally only for highlights. Inappropriate use of any paint that actually has 'rust' in its name is (IMHO) an instant realism-killer.

 

With no disrespect to Woody, although mixing obviously has its uses, I'm not convinced there's any great merit in mixing brews of any more than two shades at once

 

I confess that some were 'hybrids' too - a bit of weathering from one wagon combined with another aspect from another (oh dear, that should have Jim SW shuddering!).

 

It works for me ;)

 

Not sure about the replates, I think they may stick out a bit too much (I used paper, perhaps I'll try some thin plasticard).

 

I wouldnt bother with anything TBH Dave, even in 4mm any overlay is going to be vastly overscale (this is one of the *big* misconceptions about replated minerals; the thorough workshops jobs had new plate let in which was effectively flush with the old, and even 'ad hoc' patching-over jobs would have used relatively thin plate which just wouldn't stick out all that much. I show this with either just paint, or a scribed line.

 

Another perhaps pedantic point is that your wagons are rebodies anyway - it would be very rare (though not completely unknown) for one of those to warrant further plating before withdrawal

 

Hmmm, I can see one that one on the left in the last photo hasn't had the weathering worked into the corners enough - adjustment required!

 

Methinks 6WTS has taught you well, Grasshopper :D

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I was just thinking about The Ladykillers :yes:

 

Overview of some of the batch I've been working on intermittently:

 

 

 

As Mike says, it's not a competition but this is less than half the contents of the two boxes on the left, and there are more boxes...

 

And some oldies from the archives:

 

 

 

Modified Airfix, one of my oldest wagons

 

 

 

Bog standard Bachy slope-sider

 

 

 

Airfix with Parkside pressed end door, constructed before the Bachy version was announced

 

(last pic courtesy Steve Flint)

Edited by Pennine MC
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