RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted May 23, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 23, 2011 Welcome everyone to this Handbuilt Track group, and many thanks to Andy for setting it up. This is the place to bring together all the topics and information about building your own track, which previously tended to be spread across many different areas of RMweb. Now with an RMweb Group this content can all be in or linked from one place and should be much easier to find and follow. If you enjoy building your own track or you are interested in doing so, this is the place to come to first. Why not join us? Many track builders nowadays use Templot software to design it, so Andy has merged the old Templot sub-forum into this group too. So this group is also now the place to find help and advice with Templot, and other track design software. If you are already a member, thanks for joining and welcome aboard. If not, why not join us? Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stafford junction Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 Hello martin just a line to say hello and to say what a good group to start. I am always experimenting with templot and have started to build in 2mm finescale for some members of the club I will try to keep you posted on my progress. Hope you have a good Christmas and a prosperous new year all the best Gordon ( wellington, not far from Stafford junction) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted January 7, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 7, 2017 Some really good news from C and L posted on S4um. "A quick update on the situation at C+L. Pete is still the owner of the business with no successful buyer(s) having been found to date. The staff have taken on more of the day to day responsibilities in running the business with Pete in overall control on a part time basis. This is working well from our point of view and hopefully we are still maintaining a good level of service to our customers. Unfortunately, after holding prices steady for several years inflationary pressures have caught up with us so certain products have had to be increased. Pete has posted a full explanation on the home page of the C+L website. Roy" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 I would welcome advice in respect of a printed double slip using the current version of Templot please. I would state that I am not a member of the Templot forum or a regular user of the excellent software so please go easy on me ! I created a small track plan in O Gauge 31.5mm part of which includes a double slip created from the drop down menu. After printing all the saved templates / track plan I noticed that the switch blades on the RHS photo 2 below appear to be on the outside rails unlike the ones in photo 1. Am I doing something wrong ? Thank you. Photo 2 Photo 1 FWIW.... a screen shot of my initial track plan ( ignore the Dble Slip on it it was my first effort ! ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted December 23, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 23, 2017 After printing all the saved templates / track plan I noticed that the switch blades on the RHS photo 2 below appear to be on the outside rails unlike the ones in photo 1. Am I doing something wrong ? Hi bgman, You are not doing anything wrong. It is purely a cosmetic effect caused by the order in which the partial templates are printed. The rail alignments are not affected. To cure it, you need to ensure that the base half-diamond templates are printed first, with the slip switches overlaid on top of them later. The half-diamond templates need to be moved above the switches in the box list. You can do that by clicking this menu item on the storage box window: The storage box can be accessed from background > templates menu item, or by pressing CTRL+B. There is a note about this on the tools > make slip > help menu item: regards, Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 Hi bgman, You are not doing anything wrong. It is purely a cosmetic effect caused by the order in which the partial templates are printed. The rail alignments are not affected. To cure it, you need to ensure that the base half-diamond templates are printed first, with the slip switches overlaid on top of them later. The half-diamond templates need to be moved above the switches in the box list. You can do that by clicking this menu item on the storage box window: sort_hd_to_back.png The storage box can be accessed from background > templates menu item, or by pressing CTRL+B. There is a note about this on the tools > make slip > help menu item: sort_hd_to_back_note.png regards, Martin. Hi Martin, Very much appreciate your prompt response, I will retry later this evening using the very descriptive reply. Grahame p.s. I've managed to run the programme on my MacBook successfully using Winebottler as its the only laptop I use this days. The information found on your Templot site helped me to achieve this. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 I have decided to make my pointwork using soldered copper clad sleepers. Whilst I have produced points using C & L products in a smaller scale in the past I would like to get something laid down and working to enable my small amount of stock and locos to run. My question - Is there a cosmetic rail chair / half chair available to fit Bullhead rail ( I'm using the Peco Code 124 rail ) using the cooper clad method ? I have tried to use the Peco Individually chairs cut in half but as many may already know they are not really suited to this method, with wheels "bouncing" in the inner chair when fixed in place . I have accepted that it may well not be too prototypical but I'm prepared to accept that and don't want to go down the route of soldered "blobs" to represent a chair. The attached photo is my first effort at producing points using this method in O Gauge and I'm pleased to say that my stock runs through them quite happily.... PHEW !!! I did enquire at the Reading Trade Show last year but was unsuccessful, maybe the Bristol Show could be the place to find something. Grahame Edit : I have also posted this question on the GOG forum so some of you may well see it appearing there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Grahame To fit C&L or Exactoscale chairs (and I guess Peco chairs) you need to lift the rail 1 mm above the rail in 7 mm scale, as the base of the chairs are 1 mm thick. Several ways of doing this either retrospectively or during the build. One way would be to decide which timbers need to be soldered, then replace each timber one at a time, starting with those which will remain copperclad. Either install 1 mm risers or use cast brass chairs and solder to the timbers. Then replace the rest of the timbers one at a time using plastic timbers and plastic chairs cut in half then glued in place Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Grahame To fit C&L or Exactoscale chairs (and I guess Peco chairs) you need to lift the rail 1 mm above the rail in 7 mm scale, as the base of the chairs are 1 mm thick. Several ways of doing this either retrospectively or during the build. One way would be to decide which timbers need to be soldered, then replace each timber one at a time, starting with those which will remain copperclad. Either install 1 mm risers or use cast brass chairs and solder to the timbers. Then replace the rest of the timbers one at a time using plastic timbers and plastic chairs cut in half then glued in place Hi John, I've tried several ways to achieve this, your suggestion being one of them, but its really fiddly and to be honest I have become a "stick in the mud" I'm afraid and will look at ways to make up some cosmetic chairs to suit. I really do appreciate your input and to qualify ( make an excuse really ) the reasoning behind making my points this way is purely due to the time period and supply of parts required from C & L ( not meant as a negative comment ). I will carry on and see what they turn out like and may well replace them in the future when time and money permit. Kind regards Grahame Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Grahame Retro fitting is a real problem/issue and not one I would consider myself, What you could do in future is what I call the composite build method. 1 Decide which timbers need to be soldered ( normally no more than five or six 2 Either use cast brass chairs or slivers of 1 mm double sided copperclad to lift the rail to the required height 3 The remaining Timbers can either be plastic or ply, just thread the chairs to the rail, solder where required, glue all others. Far easier to do than to explain Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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