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steve fay
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That’s a different Fred to the builder of this loco!

Fred J Lewis will more than likely do the weathering but Fred E Lewis is the builder!! All very confusing!

 

Definitely NOT John Lewis then !

Other food shops / weathering Departments are available  :jester:

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

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It’s been a bit quiet on Ranelagh Bridge recently. I haven’t done much as I’ve been working on the Dawlish diorama, Phil ( Intentio) will be doing some designs for the first of the Tenements over the summer.

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Hi Steve,

 

No this is the second series on a channel called Quest, he's helping service an old steam loco ready to run a race against some push bikes !!!

 

Martyn.

Edited by 3 link
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  • 2 months later...

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I’ve started to mock up the back ground around the bridge, it’s all temporary at the moment. The building will be clad in plasticard as will the base, the bridge is being designed in Canada.

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I’ve had another crack at the bridge mock up! Using photos to try and gauge the size and the signal gantry has been very helpful. All this information plus a paper version will be sent of to Canada to the designer whom I’m also meeting at Telford.

This should be a part kit covering the basic structure and part scratch build covering the details.

Edited by steve fay
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Canada? No-one over here available to do it Steve?

I was contacted by some one who was designing a similar bridge for their own layout they just happened to be in Canada.

Even if I can just get the main sides laser cut for precision I’m pretty confident I can do the rest using various plastruct, plasticard a rivet pinch and lots of rivet transfers

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Steve,

 

Some years back I got a copy of the plans for one of the rolling bascule bridges in Birkenhead docks, and I gave some thought as to how I might build it as I redrew it from 1/4” to 7mm on the CAD. I’ve got no further, but my thinking was to laser cut the main frames from Perspex and then overlay the flanges and the fishplates. There are more rivets than you can shake a stick at, and they’re obviously an important part of the visual impact of the structure. I haven’t got a good solution for them. Other than laser cut the holes and stick pins or rivets into them. Otherwise, etching, but it’s big, thus expensive.

 

Do you have drawings or plans of the Ranelagh road bridge? If you can get CAD, I’m sure Phil can cut the Perspex, I believe his laser is CO2 and I’m sure it’s bigger than mine!

 

Best

Simon

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Steve,

 

Some years back I got a copy of the plans for one of the rolling bascule bridges in Birkenhead docks, and I gave some thought as to how I might build it as I redrew it from 1/4” to 7mm on the CAD. I’ve got no further, but my thinking was to laser cut the main frames from Perspex and then overlay the flanges and the fishplates. There are more rivets than you can shake a stick at, and they’re obviously an important part of the visual impact of the structure. I haven’t got a good solution for them. Other than laser cut the holes and stick pins or rivets into them. Otherwise, etching, but it’s big, thus expensive.

 

Do you have drawings or plans of the Ranelagh road bridge? If you can get CAD, I’m sure Phil can cut the Perspex, I believe his laser is CO2 and I’m sure it’s bigger than mine!

 

Best

Simon

 

Simon,

 

My process for rivets is to laser cut Trotec (works with card too) inversely and engrave .15mm circles. These act as a guide for a riveting tool. The rivets still need to be punched out but they will be in the right place for nice straight rows. An example of rivets produced like this is the tank on the water tower further up this thread. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/38539-ranelagh-bridge-west-london-stabling-point/?p=3034198

 

A drawing I found on the web.

post-1485-0-09242600-1532895752_thumb.jpg

 

and a quick cad 

Ranelagh Bridge.pdf

 

The rivets roughed up in magenta.

Edited by BrushType4
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Phil,

 

Thanks for the heads-up regarding how you approach rivets.

 

I was talking to my pal, John (who used to be Mr Scale Signal Supply) about this over dinner last night as we had a big boys trip to Pendon & Didcot, and he was quite keen on a plasticard approach. Your etched holes in Trotec (which I understand to be very similar, but I’ve not tried it yet) makes great sense, as you say, it would make sure your lines were straight, and the patterns would be sharp.

 

Thanks again

Simon

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Heljan’s large Prairie!

Now having a good look over the model up close it’s a lot better than the EP samples on the Heljan stands at shows.

The moulded number plates pop off quite easy with a sharp Stanley knife for replacement by some nice etch plates. Severn mill ones here just blue tacked in place.

So any modifications? Yes the tank lifting brackets are on the anemic side so some warren shepherd ones will remedy that, the seam is noticeable on the safety valve bonnet but that’s an easy fix. Radley models do a trip cock casting for the 61 so one of them is a must as well.

A good coating of dirt and away we go.

Testing on standard DC was fine with the Loco running smoothly, I don’t have the room to see what it’s haulage capacity is like but being a Heljan Model it should move a good load. post-5983-0-62385700-1536349350_thumb.jpeg

Edited by steve fay
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I’ve made a start on getting 6165 in to a more work a day early 60’s appearance post-5983-0-40253500-1536485924_thumb.png

Edited, I’ve ordered new tank lifting rings from Warren Shepherd but he’s out of stock so they may take a few weeks to arrive.

Edited by steve fay
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