Jan W Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 Does anyone know where I can obtain a standard 8mm watchmakers collet (Boley, IME etc) size 55 or 56 or better still both. Bergeon (swiss watchmaker lathe manufacturer) indicate that their collets fit the Boley lathes: http://shop.bergeon.ch/Catalogue/PDF/5040%20K_P_2.pdf Cousins sell the Bergeon lathe so they can probably order the collets for you: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/bergeon-5412c-lathe Jan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Argos Posted September 25, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 25, 2017 (edited) Does anyone know where I can obtain a standard 8mm watchmakers collet (Boley, IME etc) size 55 or 56 or better still both. I have searched eBay including USA without success and done a full internet search and can find nothing for either size. Maybe someone has one they don't use perhaps? Thanks Oliver Hi Oily, 8mm 56 collets in stock:- http://www.watchtoolsonline.com/8mm-Collets-for-Watchmakers-Lathe-7156.htm?productId=73 Select Shearline form the drop down box - $14 + postage And http://www.execulink.com/~lfoord/tools.html#latherelated #990 at the end of the Lathe and Lathe related section. - $15 +postage Both are from the US, I've not used either supplier. Edited September 25, 2017 by Argos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dsl1984 Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 Hello All, Quick question, does anyone have any experience of converting Dapol's A4? Is this likely to be simple or a complete new chassis? I have also heard reports of its poor pulling power, could this be improved by motorising both tender and loco? Any thoughts or past experience welcomed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 Quick question, does anyone have any experience of converting Dapol's A4? Is this likely to be simple or a complete new chassis? I have also heard reports of its poor pulling power, could this be improved by motorising both tender and loco? Any thoughts or past experience welcomed. Far too modern for my taste, but CFMRC of this parish is your man to answer that! Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 Hello All, Quick question, does anyone have any experience of converting Dapol's A4? Is this likely to be simple or a complete new chassis? I have also heard reports of its poor pulling power, could this be improved by motorising both tender and loco? Any thoughts or past experience welcomed. There is already quite a lot about this from Tim Watson, on one of the threads in this forum (I forget which). He did the A3, but the chassis block is identical to the A4. He made a new chassis block as he tried and failed to turn down the Dapol wheels to 2FS. Good luck with motorising both loco and tender and getting them to run at the same speed! I am also working on a replacement etched chassis for the Dapol A3/A4, but it is not complete yet. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisveitch Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 (edited) I'm currently using an old (but good) Record 2.5" bench vice and I'd like to get hold of a Bergeon lookalike vice as well. I know the Bergeon type is demountable - is there some sort of equivalent in a demountable bench vice of about the size I currently have? The two would need to be mounted side-by-side so the larger vice could potentially get in the way of workpieces or handling around the smaller vice, hence the wish to have it demountable. Have had a quick Google and found nothing apart from clamp-on models, which isn't really what I want. Regards, Chris Edited September 29, 2017 by chrisveitch Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Argos Posted September 29, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 29, 2017 Hi Chris, Cousins do a Bergeon-a-like which I think is de-mountable. it's only 1.75" though. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/screw-down-1-45mm-jaw-watchmakers Hope this helps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John57sharp Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 I'm just curious what is recommended for cleaning soldered assemblies prior to painting? Everything is so small I worry about damage with anything other than running water? I'm not used to this scale yet! I'm mostly using solder paste from a syringe, but there must be some residue? Thanks again John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 I'm just curious what is recommended for cleaning soldered assemblies prior to painting? Everything is so small I worry about damage with anything other than running water? I'm not used to this scale yet! I'm mostly using solder paste from a syringe, but there must be some residue? I put them in the sink, give them a spray with CIF or something similar and then brush them gently with a small stiffish artists brush I have (don't know where it came from, it's years old!) followed by a good rinse. Make sure the plug is in the sink, or do it in a basin so that any parts which are not securely soldered don't go AWOL. In fact, giving them a fairly firm brush identifies any such parts. Finding a bit which hadn't been as well secured as you thought it was coming adrift during or after painting is a right pain! HTH, Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelcliffe Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 Or as an alternative: a cheap ultrasonic cleaner (sold for cleaning jewellery) filled with water, and run it for about a minute. Should blast out any solder residues, and will also detach any parts not properly fixed (so fish out carefully!). Having got an ultrasonic, I now prefer it to the sink, CIF and toothbrush method. - Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mim Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 Joggles Yes/No? What are peoples opinions on putting joggles in point stock rails in to which the switch blades can sit? My reading so far suggests they can be used, but are not essential. As a first time 2mm turnout builder, what do you recommend? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted October 10, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 10, 2017 Or as an alternative: a cheap ultrasonic cleaner (sold for cleaning jewellery) filled with water, and run it for about a minute. Should blast out any solder residues, and will also detach any parts not properly fixed (so fish out carefully!). Having got an ultrasonic, I now prefer it to the sink, CIF and toothbrush method. - Nigel For those 2mm members attending the AGM this weekend I am taking along a collection of stuff which belonged to the late Bill Blackburn to sell which includes a small Ultrasonic cleaner which, by the looks of it has never been used. I've not come up with prices yet but come and see me on the day and a sensible offer will secure - cash or cheques made out to John Blackburn only. The money is going to Bill's grandchildren. There is also a nice little compressor with a couple of Badger airbrushes and a whole host of other tools, kits and bits. Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 Joggles Yes/No? What are peoples opinions on putting joggles in point stock rails in to which the switch blades can sit? My reading so far suggests they can be used, but are not essential. As a first time 2mm turnout builder, what do you recommend? Yes, but they're prototypical for my chosen company's lines. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted October 10, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 10, 2017 Joggles Yes/No? What are peoples opinions on putting joggles in point stock rails in to which the switch blades can sit? My reading so far suggests they can be used, but are not essential. As a first time 2mm turnout builder, what do you recommend? The GWR used joggles all the time other companies used them for facing points often a joogle in the straight stock rail but none in the curved one as the 'set' rendered it unesscessary. In model terms making a joggle in the 2mm bullhead rail is easy so I would put one in where appropriate for cosmetic reasons at least. As to whether they are necessary well the problems of damage to the blades tips do not trouble us. You can get wheels raising up over the balde if things are not aligned right but generally with our wider flangeways I have not percieved joggles to be necessary. I would however just round the top inside edge of the blde tip slightly which helps avoid the edge of a wheel flange striking it. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John57sharp Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 Thanks for the helpful cleaning suggestions. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mim Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 No joggles on my prototype that I can see in photos, so I'll be leaving them out. Thanks everyone. Mim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modfather Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 Back to basics chaps - whats the best way to fit crankpins? I'll rsu into brass wheels, but white metal wheels I assume I'll be gluing. Cheers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 (edited) Back to basics chaps - whats the best way to fit crankpins? I'll rsu into brass wheels, but white metal wheels I assume I'll be gluing. Cheers. If you make sure they are tight enough, you might not need either. Edited October 11, 2017 by Chris Higgs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mim Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Another day, another question. When building points with bullhead rail, easitrack plastic sleeper strip and chairs, is it possible to put the fitting of the check rails first in the build sequence, rather than last? The idea is to get round the need to bend one end of the check rail when it is in position and only 0.5mm from the stock rail, necessitating modifying a cheapo set of pliers and risk damaging the delicate chairs. My logic is that the plastic chairs set the check rail gap anyway, so fitting the check rails last doesn't allow any chance of alteration and the important relationship is between the crossing and each stock rail done earlier. My idea would be to thread the chairs on to the check rail first, then bend the check rail ends, then thread the stock rail and all its chairs, then align and glue the stock rail and chairs to the sleepers and build the rest of the turnout from there. Does this make any sense at all? Is there something important that I've not considered? Should I just stop overthinking and follow the instructions and get something built? Mim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted October 12, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 12, 2017 (edited) Back to basics chaps - whats the best way to fit crankpins? I'll rsu into brass wheels, but white metal wheels I assume I'll be gluing. Cheers. Dec 1995 article if you have not got a copy the back issues archive get one it is a goldmine of useful tips Nick Edited October 12, 2017 by nick_bastable 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Another day, another question. When building points with bullhead rail, easitrack plastic sleeper strip and chairs, is it possible to put the fitting of the check rails first in the build sequence, rather than last? The idea is to get round the need to bend one end of the check rail when it is in position and only 0.5mm from the stock rail, necessitating modifying a cheapo set of pliers and risk damaging the delicate chairs. My logic is that the plastic chairs set the check rail gap anyway, so fitting the check rails last doesn't allow any chance of alteration and the important relationship is between the crossing and each stock rail done earlier. My idea would be to thread the chairs on to the check rail first, then bend the check rail ends, then thread the stock rail and all its chairs, then align and glue the stock rail and chairs to the sleepers and build the rest of the turnout from there. Does this make any sense at all? Is there something important that I've not considered? Should I just stop overthinking and follow the instructions and get something built? Mim The hazard is not being able to get a gauge in the right place to gauge the crossing nose to stock rail relationship sufficiently well. This is usually done with button gauges and the wing/check rails would definitely obstruct their use. Depending upon the order of construction of the crossing area you may have a great idea in there. Perhaps someone else will foresee something I have not? I think a trial piece is in order... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mim Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 The hazard is not being able to get a gauge in the right place to gauge the crossing nose to stock rail relationship sufficiently well. This is usually done with button gauges and the wing/check rails would definitely obstruct their use. Depending upon the order of construction of the crossing area you may have a great idea in there. Perhaps someone else will foresee something I have not? I think a trial piece is in order... Good point there. Didn't think of it interfering with using a button gauge. I will experiment and see what happens. Easiest way to check, if you'll pardon the expression, would be to put in the check rail first, but without a bend at the inner end, so it can be removed if it interferes with placing the crossing accurately. Mim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted October 12, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 12, 2017 (edited) Another day, another question. When building points with bullhead rail, easitrack plastic sleeper strip and chairs, is it possible to put the fitting of the check rails first in the build sequence, rather than last? The idea is to get round the need to bend one end of the check rail when it is in position and only 0.5mm from the stock rail, necessitating modifying a cheapo set of pliers and risk damaging the delicate chairs. My logic is that the plastic chairs set the check rail gap anyway, so fitting the check rails last doesn't allow any chance of alteration and the important relationship is between the crossing and each stock rail done earlier. My idea would be to thread 't the chairs on to the check rail first, then bend the check rail ends, then thread the stock rail and all its chairs, then align and glue the stock rail and chairs to the sleepers and build the rest of the turnout from there. Does this make any sense at all? Is there something important that I've not considered? Should I just stop overthinking and follow the instructions and get something built? Mim I haven't tried fitting the checkrail first. When fitting it I make the bend at one end then thread it through. I then make the bend at the other end using a old pair of tweezers gripped close to the ends to hold the rail close to the chair. Don Edited October 12, 2017 by Donw Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted October 12, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 12, 2017 I haven't tried fitting the checkrail first. When fitting it I make the bend at one end then thread it through. I then make the bend at the other end using a old pair of tweezers gripped close to the ends to hold the rail close to the chair. Don I do similar but also use a gauge to lock the check rail in place Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted October 12, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 12, 2017 Dec 1995 article 12.jpg if you have not got a copy the back issues archive get one it is a goldmine of useful tips Nick I've always soldered crankpins in. I make a small countersink on the rear of the wheel, flux and touch it with a hot, tinned iron. Never had a problem, either with damaging the wheel or crankpins coming loose. Likewise with valve gear, I always solder, I've never been a fan of hitting something to fix it! Jerry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now