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Mr Simon's N Gauge Workbench - Class 155, 4 car 101, weathering, etc...





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#1 MrSimon

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Posted 07 June 2011 - 15:36

Hello everybody!

Now that I've got my modelling bits out of storage I thought it best to split my building stock out of my layout topic - it was getting a bit confusing for me http://www.rmweb.co....O_DIR#/grin.gif I'm still building the O Gauge Tram but its taken a bit of a back seat while I stare at everything I've done wrong with it.

On this thread I'll be showing progress and various projects for the three N Gauge layouts I'm involved with; My Layout: 'Gresby' modern image East Midlands secondary line (currently a terminus - see link in my footer thing), 'Farndon Road' 50s/60s BR steam fictitious East Coast Mainline by the former Newark & District N Gauge group now part of Bingham MRC, and 'Parnhams' pre-war Vale of Belvoir - a layout I sometimes help to exhibit. Most of the stock on this thread will be for Gresby (and its replacements) but there's always bits and bobs coming over to me for building, painting and detailing from the other layouts - so check back often if Steam's your thing smile.gif

In January I was spurred into action after reading the 'editorial' in the N Gauge Journal referring to our piles of Un-Finished Objects (UFOs) I decided to pick out ten UFOs from my box and get them finished and either put away, sent to their owner or sold by the end of the year; obviously moving back to the UK and putting all my stuff into storage for three months has hampered my efforts slightly, but I live in hope! I finished one item from the list before leaving Helsinki:

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Three Dapol fish vans I'd been putting off finishing off - they're a bit too dirty I think but they shouldn't stand out too much in the rest of the Farndon Road fish train. They were replaced in the UFO list by this:

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A BR Blue headcode disk class 20, which I converted and painted a year or two ago but hadn't finished because of another housemove (should probably move into a caravan or something) and when I got it out to photo and see what needed doing to it I had a rather nasty surprise when I took the body off the dummy chassis:

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The resin chassis block had warped, which affected the running. I found a similar problem when I got back from Helsinki with one of my dummy class 37 chassis, so I decided to see if I could fix it with hot water and a bit of gentle persuasion:

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I couldn't. Which brings me nicely round to last nights modelling session http://www.rmweb.co....O_DIR#/grin.gif I made my own replacement chassis from plasticard and the usable bits from the ISM chassis.

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I made a replacement base-plate out of two layers of 2mm plasticard, the bottom layer shaped to the shape of the Farish 37 body, the top layer smaller to clear details like the doors. The bit in the middle was so the back of the cab sat at the right height and to add a bit of strength to stop it sagging under the weight of the fuel tank.

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Next I spent forever cutting the fuel tank away from the remains of the old chassis and adjusted the bogie centres to fit the tank and let the bogies swing (I'd drilled the original holes slightly too close together)

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Next I cut off the cab details from the original chassis and stuck them on. I need to see how well it runs, the bogies will be tightened up when its been painted, I'm not sure about adding weight - the 37 will be used to top and tail so will need to run just as well being pushed and pulled.

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Just need to paint the chassis and I can get detailing the buffer beam http://www.rmweb.co....O_DIR#/grin.gif

Thats all I got done last night, I've still got the class 20 to re-chassis and when I get somewhere to paint sorted I can get cracking with the rest of my pile.

Lots to do!

Simon


Edited by MrSimon, 05 November 2016 - 10:04 .

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#2 MrSimon

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Posted 11 June 2011 - 17:11

Hello everybody!

I managed to get a bit more work done today (if only I had a modelling desk again)

First up was to paint the underside of the class 37 chassis I made in post 1 (I didn't take a photo of it, because from normal viewing positions you can't see it - it might show up on the layout though) the loco is now ready for detailing and weathering. When I've got my act together and got a set of DRS cl37 compass transfers I'll be able to get cracking with the powered class 37 it'll be running with - its only been waiting for 3 years <_<

Next I turned my attention to the class 20 chassis. As I hadn't snapped it I decided to try a spot of filing and building before starting a whole new chassis. First up I opened out the pivot holes slightly so the bogies had some play in them and then I filed away the inner ends of the chassis block to be horizontal from the hole so the bogies could sit flat on the track:

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I'm not sure if the difference shows, but the one on top is before, below is after.

Next I added a fillet of plasticard on the outer end of each hole, once filed flatter this made the bogie sit better:

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Then painted the chassis where I filed it away and remounted the bogies:

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This is now ready for transferring, detailing and weathering. All I need is my powered one back from repair and they'll be good for running on Gresby.

While looking in my modelling box I found some instructions I thought I'd lost for the alterations I need to make to the underframes on my Mark 2a/b/cs - so guess whats next?!?

Lots to do!

Simon
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#3 MrSimon

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Posted 18 June 2011 - 23:21

Hello everybody!

Today I did a tiny bit of work on part of my layout but spent most of the evening working on converting the underframes on some of my Mark 2s. The Graham Farish/Bachman Mark 2 coach uses the same underframe and roof for all the different types (I can't remember if they use the same roof for the mini-buffet and I don't know if it should have bits and bobs on the roof) but in real life the different coaches had different underframes for airconditioned and non-airconditioned types, the non airconditioned coaches had roof ventillators and openable windows.

A few years ago I fitted some roof vents to my regional rail mark 2 set but never got round to rebuilding the underframes, even though the instructions for the underframes are on the same piece of paper (obviously there was a slight delay when I lost the piece of paper) This new year, changing the underframes on this set of coaches became one of my goals for the year - a UFO :D

The instructions for the roof vents and underframes came on the instructions for the early MK2 coach inlays by TPM.

Today I did the three of the five coaches:

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Here is the before shot of the two regional rail liveried mark 2s - the shell vents are by Ultima models.

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The first job was to remove the underframe, this unclips from the floor by two little lugs inside the coach. This was where I hit the first problem after forgetting that I'd fixed the warped roofs by glueing them down :( it took a bit of jiggling and knifing to get them off. Once off the coach remove all the bits from the underframe that aren't in the right place - 1 piece on each side is in the right place.

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A close up on the stripped down underframe - I filed it pretty smooth before sticking the bits back on.

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Close up of the rebuilt underframe. Mark 2, 2a, 2b and 2c did not have airconditioning so all the fans and compressors and stuff on the Farish underframe isn't needed. The coach this underframe is for is a mark 2c so it has an extra box on the non-battery side.

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The difference between rebuilt and unrebuilt underframes on the toilet side...

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... and the non toilet side.

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The finished coach - just awaiting the roof sticking back down (and the bit of shim dusting off the roof) and then weathering to represent a regional railways mark 2 running around the north/north west in the 90s.

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The third coach I did tonight was the FO in the Network SouthEast/Regional Railways hybrid livery which was adopted when large numbers of Mark 2s were transferred to the North West in the 90s. I've not stuck the roof back down on the FO because I need to strip away the yellow band to de-classify the coach, it also needs Regional Railways transfers adding (they were put in the same place as the NSE logos had been)

Two coaches of the rake are still to do: the MK2 SO/Mark 2a TSO and the Mark 2a BSO. I shied away from the SO/TSO because I couldn't remember how much I'd had to glue down inside it and didn't want to break it tonight (I'll have a crack at it tomorrow) and I skipped the BSO because I'm probably going to rebuild it as something else (although that won't affect what needs to be done to the underframe and now seems to be a bad excuse) So I've still got a bit left to do before this particular UFO is finished, and some wagon kits came in the post yesterday so theres still plenty me to do!

Best get cracking

Simon
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#4 Kris

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Posted 19 June 2011 - 06:27

You have done a good job on those coaches.

#5 BernardTPM

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Posted 19 June 2011 - 09:28

Good work on the coaches, Simon. There's another simple little improvement that can be done with these end-door Mk.2s; cutting and filing away the area under the door and above the footstep. The footstep/buffer units unclip quite easily. After that all you need to do is trim away the lower part of the side under the door where it incorrectly steps down from the end (it should be level). Don't trim all the way to the end of the moulded recess but stop at the edge of the door, so there's a small part of the original shallow recess left to accommodate the moulded footstep that correctly extends just beyond the door. Only minor touching in (underneath the door) should be required as the area exposed looking from the side is the black of the footstep moulding. This adds a little more to the definition of the door area too.
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Nice to the the 'Provincialled' NSE coach. Very typical but rarely seen modelled.
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#6 MrSimon

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Posted 19 June 2011 - 11:56

Thanks Kris and Bernard!

I'll certainly give the footstep/door thing a go, is it something only for the non-airconditioned stock or a mod I can do on all my Mark 2s? It definitely looks better, so now I'll have to do it! I've got a MK2a TSO to work on later - should I treat the middle door in the same way as the outer ones (and make some new steps from plasticard while I'm at it?)

I've always quite liked the 'provincialled' NSE livery - I saw a picture of a former NSE DMU with the stripe and whole upsweep painted blue and liked the livery ever since! When railcar.co.uk re-appears I'll link the picture of it and set to working out how I could make one for Gresby... B)

Simon

#7 BernardTPM

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Posted 19 June 2011 - 13:19

It will suit all the wrap round door Mk.2s, including the air-conditioned ones and is a simple, quick improvement on the basic Farish TSO and FO. Of course the early Mk.2 and Mk.2a stock didn't have wrap-round doors plus doors in the middle so they're going to be more work anyway as you have to fill in at least part of the Farish footstep recess and loose it completely for the TSO (that applies to brake ends as well, of course). They still look better with the prototypical gap above the footstep, though.

#8 MrSimon

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 23:22

Hello everybody!

I've not managed to get anything done on the Mark 2s this week after moving house again last Monday - I'm going down for all the modelling stuff on Thursday so should be able to get cracking with everything on Friday :D

When I got here there were a few kits waiting for me, Gresby's not going steamy - they're for Farndon Road!

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This is the articulated coach kit I asked about a few weeks ago in the advice section. I'm glad that its a Gresley steel Third/Third Brake because I wanted to make some of these for my own future projects and thought it'd be good practice - so when the modelling stuff arrives I'll go back through the advice I was given and build it on here.

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This is the second kit I was given to make, LNER D15 RTP - I'm assuming it stands for Restaurant Third Pantry? I'm going to have to do a bit of research on this one so I blank out the right widows, the articulated coaches above are in the Nick Campling book so they should be ok.

When I asked if there was anything I could build to tide me over I was given the ancient Ultima Triplet Restaurant to fix, I was told it didn't run well - when I turned it over I could see why:

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Four bogies, three different wheel types! The NGS bogies its been re-mounted on have warped slightly so the wheels fall out - they did it on all of the BGs I built too so it must be a pretty standard problem. I have a very bad record when it comes to boiling and bending plastic, so on the BGs I came up with this solution which I shall use on the triplet:

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Plasticard across the back and bent wire across the front so as not to foul the coupling. Ordinarily I would put coach repairs on this thread, but I want to see how the articulation works to see if I can use it on the kit above (also I thought my solution for the bogies might be of use to anyone having similar issues)

I did get a bit of modelling done for Gresby; another clam! I don't have my paints with me so there's no pictures of the dreaded pencil line (yet). I also got a pair of Mill Lane Sidings BR Rudd kits. Its not a kit I'd come across before, but basically its a conversion for the standard Parkside Dundas Grampus kit with different ends to make either a BR Rudd or a GWR P19 Ballast Wagon. I've already got two Grampuses for Gresby so thought a few Rudds in the rake would look good.

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Here are the first two wagons from the side, Rudd on the left, Clam on the right. I need to fill the end slightly on the Rudd, not sure what happened there :(

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The ends of the wagons. The Rudd is a Grampus with new ends which were built with thick steel ribs. The other option for the kit is a GWR P19 ballast wagon, but I didn't fancy doing one of those. Its a good kit with excellent instructions and I would reccommend giving it a go.

I've got nothing to do now until Thursday!

Simon

#9 Steven B

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Posted 28 June 2011 - 11:56

Looking good (as ever!)

Don't forget to trim off the flash that surounds the door hinges on the Rudd. :)

Happy modelling.

Steven B
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#10 MrSimon

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Posted 29 June 2011 - 23:02

Thanks Steven!

I think I got the flash, but I wasn't sure if I was supposed to take the back plate off the door hinges for the Rudd, so I left them on (but can cut them off if I've gone wrong!)

I get my modelling stuff back tomorrow so will see how many more i need for my spoil train :D

Simon

#11 MrSimon

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Posted 30 June 2011 - 16:46

Hello everybody!

I got my modelling stuff back today and put my engineers train on the test track and found I'd been struck by a problem. I'm going to leave myself wide open to jokes about things shrinking in when its cold; but its happened... I have a bad case of Helsinki-Wheel (Da Da Daaaaaaa!)

Initially I thought it was a problem restricted to one or two of my Ian Stoate dummy chassis, but my NGS Gresey BG and 4 clams so far have also been affected. When I came back from Helsinki the movers picked our stuff up first thing in the morning and then missed the ferry to Sweeden and sat on the dockside in Turku for 22 hours waiting for the next ferry, and it was -29c... I'm pretty sure that either the plastic inners of the wheels shrank, popping off some of the tyres, or the tyres shrunk popping off the insides of the wheels - but either way this is the result:

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Ladies and Gentlmen Helsinki-wheel is clearly a very serious problem, and I would advise not to put your models in the freezer, even if the heatwave comes back...

They seem quite easy to repair, a spot of polystyrene cement after tweezering them back on, but its a pain - I've built a lot of kits over the years :wacko:

Lots to do (now :()

Simon

#12 Kris

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Posted 30 June 2011 - 19:37

It might be worth just putting in new wheel sets as it will be very hard to get the tyres on perfectly square. If incorrect this will adversely effect the running of the wagon. This is something that I have found out from having 2mm tyres leave the wheel.

#13 Etched Pixels

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Posted 30 June 2011 - 22:08

I had that problem with some Dundas wheels still in their packet that had been exposed to nothing worse than Welsh weather. They pressed back on fine and I ran a spot of glue in for good measure. So far they've stayed put. Wonder if they just had a bad batch. The plastic is angled slightly so they seem to go back on straight relatively easily.

Alan

#14 MrSimon

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Posted 01 July 2011 - 20:22

Hi,

I've had that problem with most of my Dundas wheels, but not until the move back - they're all fixed now though :D I just use little tweezers and gently push them on all the way round until they're on straight. I've not checked my 2mm wheels yet :(

Must start modelling...

Simon

#15 MrSimon

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Posted 05 July 2011 - 01:11

Hello everybody!

I made the fatal mistake of shaking the un-made etches box within earshot of my dad the other day, suddenly my workload got bigger. I'd quite like to do some modelling for Gresby but I'm sure I can fit in a quick kit or two :laugh:

I went for a relatively easy kit to ease me back into pre-grouping modelling: a PC Models LNWR Carriage Truck. It's quite an old kit (~1981 which might not seem old to you but is a year older than me haha) and it seems to have been shot down from 4mm, I'm not sure if it was the lamp irons or the sprung buffers that gave it away (did people do sprung buffers in N in the 80s?) so there's lots of bits I've just left off.

The body was relatively straight forward:

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I've not glued it together yet which is why the deck doesn't fit, a lot of the bits were too thin to get off the sprue useably so they stayed where they were:

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I didn't think I'd be able to get the etched chassis running reliably enough for exhibition use, in N rather than 2mm, so I substituted the etched chassis for a Dundas 12ft chassis I just happened to have in my bits box. Looking at the etch, it shows just how far 2mm etched kits have come in the last 25 years!

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I cut away the solebar details and used the etched wooden solebar, I was going to use the etched bufferbeam too but I only had 2mm buffers which would be too long for the Dundas rapido on the tight corners of the Parnham's Fiddle Yard. The tiebars on the kit were twisted so I kept the chunky plastic ones.

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Almost ready for the paint shop! The body isn't stuck to the chassis yet, and I need to fit the buffers and brake levers... and make/buy a carriage to go on the truck. The instructions say to paint it LMS Crimson unlined, so I shall.

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The Carriage Truck with Dad's Flatiron, which I have resurrected for Parnham's next exhibition outing at the N Gauge Show in September. I've a pair of Midland 25ft vans and a Midland 6 wheel coach to build before then though :unsure:

Lots to do!

Simon

#16 MrSimon

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Posted 08 July 2011 - 13:48

Hello Everybody!

My work desk seems to have been given over to steam engines:

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Hopefully its only temporary and I can get back on with stock for Gresby!

The carriage truck has had its first coat of Crimson, and the deck its first coat of 'woodish' colour. At the top of the picture is the first box of vans I was asked to paint (including the first of many Peco insulated/banana vans that are coming my way - Mr Taylor showed me the link to the diagram book and I found an easy looking conversion.)

The ROD is undergoing a bit of investigation to find out why it stops when it enters a curve, I think its shorting on something so I'll have a look at the connection between the loco and tender and also whether the pony truck is shorting on the cylinders. The crab has the big tender so I can still run it in while I borrowed the "fowler" tender to copy the coupling and drawbar and the tender from an old GEM 4F to make a Fowler tender kit that I'd found in my box. The crab will be detailed and weathered for use on Farndon Road and Trevor Webster's Stamford East (at Grantham Show this September)

The southern vans needed a bit of work because the floor had been glued in level with the buffer beams which made the vans sit 2mm too high, and just visible are the plasticard underframes for the LNER TO/TK twin set...

I really aught to tidy my desk. Will post progress on the various bits and bobs as they're finished.

Lots to do!

Simon

#17 MrSimon

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Posted 08 July 2011 - 22:28

Evenin' all!

This evening has been all about bananas. A few days ago I asked what colour I aught to paint the peco KNR-42 vans I'd been asked to sort out and was pointed in the direction of insulated vans or banana vans, after being directed to www.arrowmoremrd.co.uk I found a set of drawings for a banana (in the British Railways diagrams of frieght stock part 1 - http://www.barrowmor...eight1Issue.pdf page 208) which looked quite easy to do.

Here is the unstarted van, in one coat of brown:

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I'm not entirely sure what the prototype of the van is, but it says its lot 3119 and theres a number 244 on the right habd side. I primarily chose it because of the similarities around the door, unfortunately its got verticle planks on the end instead of horizonal, but I'm sure no one will notice... <_<

The drawing showed different corner bits on the top corners, and no brackets on the bottom corners, so off they came. Also, whatever it is at the bottom of the end was removed too:

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With hindsight I should have done the next bit differently, I should have cut and fitted the corner plates as one piece and then added a second layer to the strapping, instead I added the straping first:

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Then I added the top half of the corner plates. I also cut the details off the roofs, because the drawing shows them as having no rain strips, which I thought was odd.

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Then I cut out the bottom half of the corner plates, stuck them on and then bent them round the corners. I also added the door-banger things:

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I need to sharpen up the corners on the bottom half of the corner plate, they're a bit too rounded from when i bent them round the corner. Next job is paint and transfers (when the society shop reopens) I think theres a few more to paint when I go back over to my friends, so I'll try one or two of the other variations - different rainstrips and straps etc - and do some as insulated vans, but not too many :D

It didn't take too long to add the details to the basic kit, and they'll look different to the other vans on the layout (Stamford East at Grantham Show and Farndon Road at Bingham Show)

Must make a start on those coaches!

Simon

#18 Kris

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Posted 09 July 2011 - 06:20

The improvements you are making to that van look good, and as for a tidy desk, such a things just does not exist.

#19 MrSimon

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Posted 11 July 2011 - 14:36

Thanks Kris!

I keep trying to be a tidier moddeller - it doesn't seem to work though... I'm on one end of the dining table at the moment so I should tidy it up later :(

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The first two banana vans need a bit of touching up and then transfers and weathering when the society shop reopens in August. I've been over to Trevor's today and picked up another 9 banana/insulated vans to paint :rolleyes:

While there I dropped off the last batch:

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I would have liked to paint inside the cattle vans, but the roofs were stuck on so I couldn't. The batch I picked up today had 2 peco standard vans, 3 LNER steel opens, 3 peco container flats, a bodge-built society southern van and a brake van. Thats summer sorted then :D

Lots to do!

Simon

#20 MrSimon

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Posted 14 July 2011 - 15:56

Hello everybody!

I've taken a slight break from the banana vans (I've not started the nine that came on Monday) to do some work on the Fowler tender for the Crab. Its shorter than the Farish fowler tender. Also, the GEM kit I'm using is very old and comes wih pizza cutter wheels with pin-point axles, which will look odd next to the front half of the Crab, so I decided to use the Farish tender wheels, drawbar and coupling. To use these parts without any fettling I decided that I had to scratch build a new tender chassis block from Plasticard; and thats exactly what I did.

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I only had 1mm thick plasticard so I had to laminate five layers together. I took the axle spacing from another GEM tender my dad had, and the measurements for the coupling and the drawbar from the Farish chassis (which is above for comparison)

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The five layers laminated together, I need to trim the end in this shot.

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Test fit of the wheels, it needs to be fitted to the tender top and painted before the keeper plate is glued on (!) so far it runs very freely, but I might file some troughs in the keeper plate before its fited.

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The new chassis, the original tender body and a GEM side for comparison... if only it didn't need nixed traffic lining :(

Lots to do!

Simon

#21 MrSimon

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Posted 14 July 2011 - 22:22

Hmm. Hate Steam.

The Fowler tender kit I'm trying to build is loads bigger than the Fowler tender I already have... in fact its wider than the Farish Fowler tender :angry:

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The whole reason to make the tender kit is to have a Crab with a tender that is prototypically narrower than the engine. I could maybe scratchbuild new ends/top/coal-thing to make it the same size - or scratchbuild a whole new tender body using the frames from the kit...?

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Simon

#22 BernardTPM

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Posted 14 July 2011 - 22:49

Perhaps you could shorten the Farish body, possibly by taking a chunk out of the middle as both ends' curved drops look about OK (obviously if you have a scaled drawing to hand you could check that out) and mount it on the modified chassis you've made, with the GEM sideframes removed from the sides and thinned down. An alternative might be to use the old Minitrix 2MT tender underframe.
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#23 Dr Al

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Posted 15 July 2011 - 11:40

Any suggestions?


If you have more of these to do in the future I would recommend the BHE fowler tender as it's a much finer casting with lost wax brass fittings and is also more prototypically narrow than your GEM example - they certainly look right behind my Crabs being narrow as compared the loco cabs.

Best Regards,
Alan
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#24 MrSimon

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Posted 15 July 2011 - 17:09

Hi,

Thanks for your suggestions! As it happens, the 4f whose tender I had been using for comparisons needs repairs so my dad has transferred the tender to the crab... I just need to line it! If he ever decides to put it back in to service I'll get a BHE tender as a replacement (but I'm keeping the plasticard chassis - because you never know!)

I've taken some wet and dry to the top of the boiler, firebox and cab to remove the mould line and am looking for my pack of handrail knobs before I take the moulded ones off.

Lots to do!

Thanks again

Simon

#25 Kris

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 07:52

Interesting to see how the tender is coming together, especially the method used for the chassis.







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