Jump to content
 

Etched loco chassis


Chris Higgs
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi Chris,

 

I mailed and PM'ed you about the G6 and O2 chassis, but have had no reply.  Did something get lost????

 

Many thanks,

Jon

 

PMed. I didnt get a PM from you, and KingJohn apparently did not get a PM from me that I can see in my list. So I begin to suspect the relaibility of the PM system on here.

 

 

Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites

What gears is the Coal Tank Chassis designed to take? Sorry if I missed this info somewhere.

 

Andrew

 

30:1 wormset and then (assuming to want to stick to gears available from the Association) either 14:18 M0.4 or 18:25 M0.3. This is pretty much my standard combination for any chassis that has 9mm(ish) wheels.

 

Chris

Edited by Chris Higgs
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Chris - thanks for sending the G6 chassis. Studying the etch, I think I have it pretty much worked out but it would be useful to confirm a couple of things

 

1 - the doubled-up frames are aligned together for soldering using the bearings - correct?

2 - Within the jig, there are some small triangular parts  which look like gussets, what are they for?

 

Like how you've done the sandboxes, very clever.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Chris - thanks for sending the G6 chassis. Studying the etch, I think I have it pretty much worked out but it would be useful to confirm a couple of things

 

1 - the doubled-up frames are aligned together for soldering using the bearings - correct?

2 - Within the jig, there are some small triangular parts  which look like gussets, what are they for?

 

Like how you've done the sandboxes, very clever.

 

1 - Correct. Solder the bearings into the outer frames first, then solder on the strengthening layer.

2 - they are the bufferbeam supports. However, I think they are actually only relevant for the O2, I don't see them on any photos of the G6.

 

Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites

Chris,

 

Etches received, thanks.

 

What wheels and gears are recommended for the G6 and O2 - or did I miss that?

 

Ian.

 

I will get around to producing some frame diagrams for the various chassis. But gears are 30:1 worm direct drive (rear coupled axle on both locos). G6 wheels are your choice, was already discussed here as 9, 9.5 or 10mm. O2 is 9.5mm driving + 6mm bogie. You could use 10mm + 6.5mm but I think the bogie wheels might foul the arches.

 

Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites

For a larger scale view on the G6, try here:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/97227-scratchbuilding-an-ex-lswr-g6/

 

Useful to see how things like the brake gear is laid out.

 

Mark

 

Also go back to post 668 ot this thread and follow the links

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/40081-etched-loco-chassis/?p=2634788

 

It shows nicely where those triangular bits mentioned by Mark go on an O2 chassis

 

Chris

Edited by Chris Higgs
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I haven't checked the N brass kit but be aware the last 10 or so O2s had a slightly higher cab and were not suitable for use on the Isle of Wight.

 

Don

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Looking forward now, I have started and/or resumed work on the next set of chassis. Which are planned to be, with the source of the body listed:

 

LNER

       A3/A4 (Dapol)

       A1 (Farish)

       B1 (Farish/Dapol)

       N2 (Shapeways)

      J50 (Shapeways)  - probably also will do a J6.

      O4 (Foxhunter)

      K3 - maybe (Shapeways)

 

SR

     V (Schools) for the Dapol body

     E1/E1R

     MN (Farish)

     WC/BB (modified Farish)

 

Chris

Edited by Chris Higgs
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Chris

 

If you're planning to do the B1, how about also the Dapol B17? Its a pretty good model visually (better than their B1) but by all accounts quite tricky to convert to 2mm. I think Tim's on CF has gone through several iterations of chassis conversion and tweaking. I've got one sat in a drawer waiting for "one day" - an etched chassis would be a great start! 

 

Justin

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking forward now, I have started and/or resumed work on the next set of chassis. Which are planned to be, with the source of the body listed:

 

LNER

       A3/A4 (Dapol)

       A1 (Farish)

       B1 (Farish/Dapol)

       N2 (Shapeways)

      J50 (Shapeways)  - probably also will do a J6.

      O4 (Foxhunter)

      K3 - maybe (Shapeways)

 

SR

     V (Schools) for the Dapol body

     E1/E1R

     MN (Farish)

     WC/BB (modified Farish)

 

Chris

Hi Chris

I'm obviously interested in all the proposed Southern chassis. I'm just puzzled by the E1/E1R, who does a suitable body for these?

Regards

Pete Townsend

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Chris

I'm obviously interested in all the proposed Southern chassis. I'm just puzzled by the E1/E1R, who does a suitable body for these?

Regards

Pete Townsend

 

Noone. However, I have a thought for a new layout that would require E1Rs.

 

Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites

For anyone who does not follow the VAG group, there is a link on there to Peter's Spares who have a vast quantity of the parts needed to make up Peco 2251 loco bodies:

 

https://www.petersspares.com/peco-peco-spares-collett-goods-spares.irc

 

I had feared that the 2251 chassis sold by the Association had had its day given there were no more bodies to be had to match it.

 

If you are an N gauge modeller also take a look at the chance to buy some quality locomotive and tender wheels at a good price.

 

Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites

Not many cabs though. Good luck selling the bodies after they are gone.

Makes you wonder why there is such a big discrepancy between numbers of bodies and cabs. I'm more worried by the number of tender bodies, they're down to the last 3 1/2 thousand ;)

Definitely scope for an etched cab.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Makes you wonder why there is such a big discrepancy between numbers of bodies and cabs. I'm more worried by the number of tender bodies, they're down to the last 3 1/2 thousand ;)

Definitely scope for an etched cab.

 

I'll just check how different the cab is to an 8F...

 

Let's not forget the Jubilee tender is dimensionally compromised to fit a Rivarossi tender drive.

 

BR Lines still have Farish Jubilee bodies BTW.

 

Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Chris

 

If you're planning to do the B1, how about also the Dapol B17? Its a pretty good model visually (better than their B1) but by all accounts quite tricky to convert to 2mm. I think Tim's on CF has gone through several iterations of chassis conversion and tweaking. I've got one sat in a drawer waiting for "one day" - an etched chassis would be a great start! 

 

Justin

 

A B17 seems to have the same coupled wheelbase as a B1.  Although knowing Dapol they will have 'adjusted' that, as they prefer to keep the wheels full size and move the wheelbases if clearances are too tight. Whereas Farish tend to reduce the wheel zises a bit.

 

I'll trace the motion off a B17 drawing I have and see whether it is the same as a B1.

 

Chris

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

A B17 seems to have the same coupled wheelbase as a B1.  Although knowing Dapol they will have 'adjusted' that, as they prefer to keep the wheels full size and move the wheelbases if clearances are too tight. Whereas Farish tend to reduce the wheel zises a bit.

 

I'll trace the motion off a B17 drawing I have and see whether it is the same as a B1.

 

Chris

 

Well, the coupling rod, connecting rod and half of the remaining motion parts are common between B1 and B17. The biggest issue for a B17 chassis, as it is for the K3 and a number of other LNER designs is that the expansion link bracket on the real thing is mounted off the footplate and I am struggling to see any way to mount if off the frame instead as there is a driving wheel directly behind it.

 

Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, the coupling rod, connecting rod and half of the remaining motion parts are common between B1 and B17. The biggest issue for a B17 chassis, as it is for the K3 and a number of other LNER designs is that the expansion link bracket on the real thing is mounted off the footplate and I am struggling to see any way to mount if off the frame instead as there is a driving wheel directly behind it.

 

Chris

 

Hi Chris,

 

Could you cheat a bit and have the bracket fold forward from the radius rod and trap the expansion link in the middle of the resulting sandwich?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...