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From a carriage window


Stubby47

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The glaziers have been in, at least upstairs, and the roofers have also added a dormer window.

 

Some poor bloke has got himself stuck in a pile of grey cement, just near the bridge, but he's too far away to worry about.

 

post-7025-0-15640900-1313756213_thumb.jpg

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Hi Mikkel,

One option is to not glaze it. But I probably will find a large piece of clear plastic and create a suitable looking aluminum frame. I want the inside of te carriage wall to be a dark wood, to help form a mask and to contrast with the lighter scene 'outside'.

I have also thought about the 'No Smoking' triangles that used to be placed on these windows, just to add to the impression.

Stu

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...I have also thought about the 'No Smoking' triangles that used to be placed on these windows, just to add to the impression.

If anything goes wrong with the background you could swap to a smoking compartment and have a hazy yellow-brown film on the window to cut down visibility :drag:

 

Glazing looks good, I hope you have maintained the perspective in all those diamond leaded panes ;)

 

Nick

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Hi Stu

 

What a great and original concept. I'm really intrigued by how you've achieved the forced perspective - remembering from Engineering Drawing at school - do you have to draw it all out using the vanishing point method? Will you show us photos of the houses in elevation so we can see how it's done? What scale figures will you use and how will they be placed?

 

I wouldn't stress about how it looks through the window - it certainly convinces me that you are looking out of a carriage window. Looking forward to seeing this complete.

 

Third entry as well! I can't quite work out how you find the time!

 

Regards

 

Mike

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Hi Mike,

 

Thanks for the compliments.

 

Yep, it is a case of using vanishing points, sort of. I knew how long the modelling area I had was (yes, 11 inches, but I lose a bit for the track at each end) and that the scales at each end would be 4mm and approx 8mm, so I drew up a simple chart with at scale 15ft at each end (the height-ish of the road bridge). Once I'd got an equivalent height line, the rest just seemed to slot into place.

 

I always assume 6ft 6" for a door, x 2'9" wide, so for the terraced houses I measured a scale door & associated windows in 4mm and 8mm, then drew connecting lines across the front.

When I cut the windows out, and held the card at a suitable angle, I was convinced they all looked square, even though I knew they weren't.

 

The other two buildings were done in a similar way.

 

This is a square on shot, showing how distorted the buildings really are:

 

post-7025-0-35985400-1313792220_thumb.jpg

 

I've got figures in 3.5mm, 4mm and 7mm scales, so they will be placed according to their 'section'. I've also got some O gauge track to place immediately in front of the window - again I'm hoping that the single view of the camera lens will help disguise the obvious differnence in scale between the window and the track.

 

As for finding time - I plan a lot of what I aim to do in my head, whenever I can, so when I actually come to do it there's just action needed.

 

You've still got time to do another Challenge entry yourself...

 

Stu

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If anything goes wrong with the background you could swap to a smoking compartment and have a hazy yellow-brown film on the window to cut down visibility :drag:

 

Glazing looks good, I hope you have maintained the perspective in all those diamond leaded panes ;)

 

Nick

 

Believe me, the dirty window concept is definitely still on the cards as an option !

 

And yes, of course the leaded windows are all drawn to an accurate and proportional perspective... Ish.

 

Stu

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Well thought out with the measurements. What you going do about the brickwork and footpaths - do you have some sort of program where you can manipulate brick papers to force the perspective or will you paint your own? This is a very interesting idea and it would be nice to see more of it on layouts in the future. Great concept.

 

As for myself, can't face the idea of entering again with only ten weeks to go!

 

Regards

 

Mike

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I think I should be able to tweak some images of footpaths, or I'll just pave it individually, using larger and larger slabs. For the brickwork, well if I can't get a perspective to look correct, I'll fall back on the 'pebbledashed' look.

 

One issue with doing this on a larger layout is it's very much depedant on the angle of viewing - in a small diorama, with a fixed viewpoint, it's easier (!) to obtain the correct conditions to make it work.

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I asked Stubby47 over the weekend at the 3 Spires Show how he was going to achieve the 'blur of speed' looking through the window,

especially with the fencing that will seperate the street view from railway property.......

- his answer was something about mod offers and ruck sacks, I think? (I am a little deaf and a tryfull dyslexic*),

I will have to check 'The Range' and 'Poundland' to see what items/goods he might have meant........

 

Good to see you Stu and 'the Eldest', at a very good show.

 

 

* One of our dogs is called 'Phydough', it's easier to spell than Fyido

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Any thoughts on how you will do the glazing of the window we are looking through?

Hopefully it will be flush glazed! :blum:

 

Really liking this one Stu, possibly the best of your three entries.

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Thanks for the comments Ric, I've enjoyed all three as they've all taught me new techniques.

However, just had a frustrating photo session in the garden. The very light breeze was enough to blow over the window frame and the temporary backscene. As the window frame fell, it knocked over the high level track, which dislodged some of the ballast and knocked off the bridge side.

So tonight will be spent repairing the (light) damage instead of finishing the road & pavement.

Photos of what I did manage to take later.

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Here you can see the method I've used to create an adjustable window. The main piece of card can be raised or lowered as required, and will also be replaced with a more accurate window as per The Stationmaster's dimensions.

 

post-7025-0-69204600-1314725202_thumb.jpg

 

This is the latest view through the square-but-rounded-corner window...

 

post-7025-0-02988300-1314725223_thumb.jpg

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As it's all going so well...

 

Serves me right!

 

I brought the foreground track into the kitchen after leaving it in the garage to dry overnight, and promptly dropped it, upsidedown, on the kitchen table. SWMBO let out a gasp, but only because of the damage to the ballast, not the large pile of stones on the polished wood !

 

So I'm re-doing the ballast for the third time, using pva & water instead of Klear.

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Ha!

Back on track this evening. I've been putting some pantiles on the roof of the tudor building. These are scratch built, using rods of plasticard and paper softened by glue-stick paste, pressed into place with a wooden coffee stirrer.

Photos tomorrow, after a coat of paint.

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Overall, it works well I think :yes:

 

Just one small thing...the dormer looks a little strange...like it doesn't follow the perspective rules that you set up....

 

or maybe its just the photo foxing me?

 

EDIT - having scanned back this page I didn't notice it until now...sorry...

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Pete,

I thInk you're right, the dormer does look odd, far more so now than before I added the tiles.

It might need to be replaced completely, but I will try to adjust it first, at least to disguise the incorrect angles.

Or, I could just make sure it's not in any of the photos !

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Stubby, Fantastic work with the perspective layout. This is a perfect example of forced perspective. I like your other challenge entrys as well.

I think I can identify the problems with the Dormer that make it look out of perspective.

The Window on the dormer does not go to the same focal point as the rest of the street. Re build the window to the focal point and then rebuild the wall facing the street of the dormer around the window. The current wall is too square which is what twists the dormer towards you geometrically. This is quite visible in your 31st of Aug post when you look at the dormer. The area where the dormor seats against the roof should be parrallel to the top of the roof. I dont envy you one bit as this is a weird shape with difficult angles to cut and measure. Once you redo the dormer, the roof tiling will fall into position.

 

On a side note your roof tilling looks fantastic btw, Whats your method as it looks alot better than cutting out individual squares of paper and tiling like that.

 

With Kind Regards, Owen.

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Thanks for your reply Owen.

Yes, looking back at how I built the dormer window I gauged all the dimensions on getting the window parallel to the roof, not angled for the perspective.

I think I will remove it and try again.

 

The roof is simply rods of plasticard stuck in parallel with the roof end every 10mm, then plain A4 type paper glued over them in 10mm strips, trying to keep the strips following a perspective angle.

As the glue softens the paper, it can be pressed gently around the rods. Then it was coat of Humbrol 113, followed by drybrushing with black, yellow and GWR Light Stone.

 

Since the photo, I've also added a brick built chimney at the far end, and will probably add a second at the near end too, built as an external stack.

 

29 days to go...

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