richbrummitt Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Using an RP beureau (sp?) for my day job as a design engineer I thought it was a little way off as a viable model and print option for model making. It was Atso's pigeon van that made me think again and have a go. We have Pro\Engineer at work and so I have been staying an extra half hour or so after work to knock up the model you see pictured. It is a GWR passenger train cattle box to diagram W7 and will have a separate chassis constructed from assorted etched parts on my workbench to complete. I have received an email from Shapeways to say that it is now in production so it should be along soon. Handles and lamp tops also need adding once it it is printed. It is to 1:152 (2mm) and I had to put four in the printer to meet the minimum order requirement. So if they do turn out all right then there will be a couple of these bodies spare. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-CRS Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Looks good, I have been planning to do a kit of a beatle in N Gauge. So interesting that you have done one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted October 5, 2011 Author Share Posted October 5, 2011 Looks good, I have been planning to do a kit of a beatle in N Gauge. So interesting that you have done one. Thank you. It's not quite N gauge and might look fractionally small (because it is) against other N gauge stock. I have no plans to do an etched chassis to accomany it at this time it is just something that I thought would be suitable for the process, being difficult or time consuming to produce from scratch or etch. I'm particularly looking forward to lettering it because the tare, load, and number were on the sliding upper ventilator shutters so they look quite odd! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofanenvelope Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Hi Rich, nice work and I am assuming you are using Solidworks? I am struggling still with concept of solid modelling/shelling or surface having no former knowledge of CAD the learning curve is proving somewhat steep however I try a little bit each day. Look forward to seeing results of you RP'ing. Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted October 5, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 5, 2011 Be interesting to see how this turns out. Did you consider doing the under frame in the same way? If you don't mind me asking what sort of price are these to get printed? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted October 5, 2011 Author Share Posted October 5, 2011 Hi Rich, nice work and I am assuming you are using Solidworks? I am struggling still with concept of solid modelling/shelling or surface having no former knowledge of CAD the learning curve is proving somewhat steep however I try a little bit each day. Look forward to seeing results of you RP'ing. Tom I have used Solidworks and at that time (I don't know how it has changed since 2003) it suffered from the same perspective issues as the version of Pro/Engineer we currently use (Wildfire 4) has - i.e. the perspective is backwards. The learning curve is incredibly steep. I did a one week residential course on solid modelling and a further week on surface modelling and still learn things all the time. Be interesting to see how this turns out. Did you consider doing the under frame in the same way? If you don't mind me asking what sort of price are these to get printed? It will indeed be interesting. I didn't consider doing the underframe because the components are readily available to knock up an underframe within an evening that is more robust and finer than the printed one could be. The cost varies depending on volume. Without giving too much away they are on a par with the resin Minks available from the 2mm SA shop proportional to the size. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted October 21, 2011 Author Share Posted October 21, 2011 I've had these since last week and have done very little except apply some primer to make the part easier to see. They were with me at Peterborough on the Sunday for anyone who spoke to me on the 2mm Scale Association stand. This is as received from Shapeways. I opted for FUD and made the smallest details 0.125mm. This seems to be okay for surface details like rivets, but the louvres are not rigid enough and all the models have a gap in one side where the 0.2mm wide 'fins' have broken or fused. For areas like this I would have a solid back with a series of ribs if I were to try again for another. For areas of small protrusions this size seems to be okay. The stanchions coming down beyond the floor are surviving, as are the end steps. These are 0.2mm, or if not 0.25mm. I can't well remember now. This is a shot in primer. With the naked eye it is easier to see the detail on the black one, but my photography skills with a mobile phone camera have let me down. The reproduction of the end in the picture is closer to the actual finish. To sum up I'm really impressed and I'll probably try it again on something with odd to make parts like the fruit and fish vans with the scalloped planks to create vents in the side that would be quite difficult to achieve with any consistency by modifying the N Gauge Society kit for the V7 Mink C. I have a couple spare. If anyone would like one they will be on a first come first served basis. Every single one has very slight flaws, but nothing that cannot be lived with or easily repaired. PM me for details. I'll be back at some point with the finished version. However there are some other things in front of this on the workbench, and I'm meant to be getting on with the layout. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-CRS Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Looks good, this technology is very promising. I would recommend grey or white primer in future. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted October 21, 2011 Author Share Posted October 21, 2011 White primer makes the brown/lake that will follow too light, and I don't have any grey. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-CRS Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 Hi Richard that is a good point, I never thought of that. I have started to only use Halfords Primers as these are acrylic and the plastic used for 3D printing does not take enamels, they never dry properly. Atso also recommended cleaning in a Ultrasonic jewellery cleaner, which I have recently tried and seems to have worked. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Update time! Many hours spent, all sorts of kits and bits raided, and here is the chassis. Hopefully you can appreciate why I didn't make it a part of the body. With some detail added to the bodies they are ready for painting. I managed to miss off the T stanchions on the ends, but it was not too arduous to add this from evergreen strip and microrod. I'm uncertain that the roof detail is correct. I based it on the drawings in Tourret 3rd Edition. This is a bit rough compared with other diagrams but it shows the roof water tank that was present on the first lot of W7, unlike any of the others I've looked at. Unfortunately I have to wait to combine the chassis and body permanently until after the glazing is added and I have to wait until I can paint (in the garden) until adding the glazing so it could well be some time again before the final update. If you need pictures of finished models to tide you over there are some of my 6 wheeled siphons in my gallery starting here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Richard, it looks really nice, great job... are you going to write something for the 2mm SA mag? It would be interesting to see your considered thoughts on the whole process and the time and money a novice needs to spend to get as far as you have. I appreciate these things don't write themselves though. regards Graham Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted January 13, 2012 Author Share Posted January 13, 2012 Richard, it looks really nice, great job... are you going to write something for the 2mm SA mag? It would be interesting to see your considered thoughts on the whole process and the time and money a novice needs to spend to get as far as you have. I appreciate these things don't write themselves though. I have something written up to the point of starting the chassis. It needs some pictures appending and sending to the editor. I'm not sure how well photos of black models will come out in black and white pictures though?! What I haven't gone into much detail about is the CAD aspect: I use 3D CAD everyday at work and am reasonably familiar with the rapid prototyping process so cannot really consider myself a novice. At a guess I have spent about 12 hours on the head scratching, note taking, and CAD work. I have spent at least that time again on what approximates to scratch building the chassis. Money-wise the chassis has cost me very little and the bodies worked out at around USD10 each when I ordered them (I believe that Shapeways has amended the pricing since). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanLister Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 That looks really good. The chassis looks excellent...really nice work! Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted October 6, 2012 Author Share Posted October 6, 2012 I've had to dredge this up from three pages deep in the group but I'm sure you'll forgive me. I wanted to finish the story. I'm really pleased with the final results, which I believe speak for themselves rather cruelly displayed at larger than life size: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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