David Siddall Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 This was the layout that convinced me that O gauge was definitely viable in a small space. The running qualities are superb and I can actually see all delightfully crafted scenic detail (eyes definitely not as good as they were!). There seem to be several threads heading the the same direction at the moment, all of which from my point of view are a great source of support and inspiration. Particularly as everybody acknowledges that 'O' (for all but a few) can seriously test the finances (...loco purchase postponed again - this time by the need for a set of tyres! ;-( Hey ho... David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Another nice layout, thanks for sharing. One thing I'm noticing with a lot of suggestions is that none of them seem to be using the Peco pointwork. The fact that they take up so much space seems to be one of my biggest problems in fitting what I want into the space I have. Which leaves me with a big dilemma - skip points altogether and end up with a relatively boring trackplan, buy a Marcway point blind and just hope that it'll be ok, or build my own which fills me with utter dread. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted December 7, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 7, 2011 Well, if it's any help, my first handbuilt track was an O gauge point. I used an old Waverley kit but other point kits are available - I'd recommend this if you want to have a go, you get the V already made, switch rails etc already formed, sleepers cut etc etc If you can solder you can build a point http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/534/entry-5372-getting-to-the-point/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 What manufacturer would you recommend for simple point kits for fiscally challenged, hamfisted, inexperienced, left handed (literally) derps like me that only really know one end of a soldering iron from the other is whether picking it up hurts or not - that isn't going to look too dissimilar to Peco flexi when completed? I have a soldering iron, I have solder, I have a cutting mat, some files... no other tools; what else would I need on top of the kit as 'general trackwork assembling tools'? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Siddall Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 What manufacturer would you recommend for simple point kits... C&L is the direction I'm headed... have a look at their 'turnout in a bag' option and see what you think? I'm still a bit adrift with the prototype technicalities but I believe the equivalent of a medium turnout would be an 'A5' ...but there are far more knowledgeable than me to advise you. Have you looked at this post yet? David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 Hmmm £49 for a kit from C&L or ready built from Marcway for £29? I just wish there were some decent pictures out there of Marcway points, it seems bizarre that there's nothing on their website. Maybe I should just stick with Peco and find a bit more space for the layout... after all they're ready sprung so I don't have to spend out on tortoises or equivalent too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted December 8, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 8, 2011 Marcway prices have gone up quite a bit - the old www.marcway.co.uk website is out of date by a long way here's their latest prices for O gauge pointwork: http://www.modelrail...me.uk/6301.html You are not comparing like for like really, the C&L point kit in a bag uses slide on chairs etc, whereas the Marcway points are soldered onto copperclad - the C&L whilst being a different method of construction, and maybe not for the beginner offer far better prototype appearance. Marcway do do a point kit - bottom of this page - £18.50 for a basic left or right hand point. Don't forget a track gauge though if going down this route Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 Having an out of date website as the first thing that comes up on Google does not exactly inspire confidence in Marcway either. I very much believe that a web presence is a key component of any business today and sure, I may miss out on some of the small manufacturers this way but to me there's nothing like browsing from the convenience of your own home to look at stuff - or come across them at an exhibition. Being so far down south, I can't just "pop over" and have a look in the shop either. I think on balance, based on my lack of experience in O gauge, for my first project that I am at least likely to complete, I'm better off sticking with what I know (albeit in a smaller scale) and saving the handbuilt track for another day, perhaps I can find someone at the club who can sit down with me some time and talk me through it all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 Ok here's an initial thought. Grey bits are roads - left a level crossing, right an overbridge. Black square is a platform. 12ft x 21" (that's the boards I have at the moment). A single running line for the "122", freight coming in separately (the connection is off-scene), with a couple of sidings. There will be some buildings (not shown) on the right before the bridge. The angled orange lines left and right are the backscene - beyond that is storage facilities. I may well build some small bolt-on cassettes for if I have an opportunity to exhibit (and if I have sufficient stock) but at the moment that's more than enough for my needs. An alternative that springs to mind is to move the station to the right hand side so the platform goes under the bridge - to make it look longer - and that gives room to join the two tracks to the left just before the level crossing, which would give some on-scene 'running round' from the freight. There will be a small industrial shunter based on the freight section that will not venture out on to the "main line". Scenery will be rural, although I'm contemplating a winter scene rather than the typical 'balmy summer' that most of us tend to model. Any thoughts? Is there something obvious I'm missing to maximise potential? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matloughe Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 I like it. I do think your suggestion of moving the platforms to add the 'run around' loop is a good one and will provide some more operational potential. Aside from that I think its a really neat plan. The points on your plan what range do they come from? Is it a Peco Left-Hand or a custom point? So aside from running around (potentially) the sidings will act as a sort of 'exchange' between the mainline and the industrial line. Would it be worth adding another siding if you have the space either as a ladder or a kick-back siding heading under the bridge back off-scene? What sort of stock are you thinking about on the line? You've mentioned the 122 & a shunter of some description, but are you thinking BR 4-Wheel Wagons and Vans or slightly later era Speedlink style? Speaking of which - what sort of Freight traffic will be on the industrial line? Cheers, ~ Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 Yes they're standard Peco points. I have a left, a right and a Y that I picked up on Ebay cheaply, and about 10 yards of flexitrack that will more than do for this layout, although I'm happy to get another should I need to. Do you mean a third line under the road bridge? The 122 is being painted up in all over blue with yellow ends so that fits me firmly in 70's/80s style. I'm working on a Judith Edge 165DS kit for the industrial shunter - and for wagons I'm waiting to see what Dapol come up with in their wagons at the moment, to see if they do something a bit more modern. If they scaled up their 6 wheel milk tanks that would be ideal as there was a 165DS based at the Chard Junction dairy - otherwise it might be random box vans; I assume the brown Skytrex ones with BR double arrows would do? I don't want open wagons as you then have the problem of empty or loaded going both ways - or loading/offloading somehow depending on the industry. In an ideal world I'll get a blue 33 or 08 for the trip working to/from the freight facility, and it would only run to/from the right of the plan (viewing side at the bottom of the plan) which is why the left hand off scene is only long enough for the 122 to 'hide'. One other option that springs to mind is to open up the scenic bit to the left and remove the angled backscene, as a 'headshunt', not that dissimilar to St Mary Hoo that is only used for freight loco running round purposes. The idea of dereliction, a not to past glories and a somewhat more substantial station but boarded up and disused does have a certain appeal to it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 For what it's worth, my take on the 'Minimum Space O gauge layout' is here http://www.rmweb.co....o-gauge-layout/ I'm working with 9'4" x 1' 9" for a freight only line and the biggest problem I'm finding is the fiddle yard or sector plate. Do you hide it behind scenery (such as a large building like a warehouse) or have it 'off-stage' so it's easily accessible? I'm using 3-link couplings so need easy access for coupling/uncoupling/changing stock. However, a 3' sector plate only leaves me 6' for the scenic bit. Decisions, decisions ...... What couplings are you thinking of using? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 I haven't even got as far as thinking about couplings yet as I have no wagons or anything to pull them! Three links are an obvious option of course, and I expect that once I have a plan finalised I'll start thinking about things like that. Nice little layout project you've started there - and a good choice of username as well as that was my favourite pet Hoover which always seemed to be on the front whenever we went to Exeter for the day. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Siddall Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Ok here's an initial thought. Nice, nice, nice plan... Try this... Peco points really can be made to look good - just takes a bit of work :-) ....though I'm gritting my teeth and going the C&L route because, personally, it's that prototype fidelity which does it for me. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Nice little layout project you've started there - and a good choice of username as well as that was my favourite pet Hoover which always seemed to be on the front whenever we went to Exeter for the day. Thanks. Warspite became my favourite Hoover after I filmed it coming into Burngullow from Parkandillack with 50 clayhoods in 1987 (that's my wife's photo as my avatar). We then picked it up at Lostwithiel on its way back from Carne Point. 24 years later and I can still hear it! Wonderful! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted December 9, 2011 Author Share Posted December 9, 2011 Hi David, thanks for the link. I've always used Peco points in N and OO and I think they're perfectly good enough for me, and as you say with a little careful weathering can definitely look the part. I always like to balance stuff rather than, say, running untouched Lima Mk 1's behind on handbuilt track - it just doesn't go together properly in my eye. Been looking back at my original plan and I have a few ideas with it still but want to dwell on any possible changes before I draw them out as I am starting to develop a picture of it in my mind and it involves several different subtle levels, to try and avoid the "track laid directly on the baseboard" mistake I've made in the past. Watch this space, as they say - but don't watch too closely as it may take a while until I start anything, partly due to christmas coming soon, families living 150 miles apart, and too many other things to fit in to the season of the humbug. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 What couplings are you thinking of using? In my case 3-link couplings were one of the reasons I got into British O Scale. Years ago I did a lot of British HO scale (yes HO!) with Kadee buckeyes, but for one thing they looked wrong on UK-outline 1960's era stock, and as well, I just got a bit bored when shunting, and wanted more interaction with the train than magnetic couplings give. However having fiddled and faffed about wth 3-links in 4mm scale even more years ago, I knew that to use them well, it had to be O Scale.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 I know one nutter that used working 3 links in 2mm finescale... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 Found a nice low relief station kit on Ebay, which is 90mm, plus the group standard platform dimensions means about 6" depth for the station and platform. Methinks a little redrawing of the plan is in place to accommodate. I don't really want to drop the station as it at least gives the layout a focal point; otherwise the DMU just goes past and really doesn't have much of a purpose for being there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 My take on a minimum space O guage layout is Gough's Yard (see my signature) ... a timesaver in under 8' using Marcway 48" points and short wheel base wagons. In future i'd use c&l rather than the Marcway points. A lot of fun to operate, although time has been limited with the arrival of Jack Jnr and no where to have it permanently set up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 What did you use for the rest of the track? I see you used Marcway points. I can see some difference in the sleepers but I'm not sure which is the more accurate. Do you have a close up shot of points with plain track? There are no illustrations on their website. Nice little shunting project on the go there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 I'm afraid I don't have any close ups of the points and the layout is now stored safely for the winter (the last layout left up in the garage got damaged by damp). The plain track is peco bullhead. There is a difference in height because the marcway doesn't use chairs, and uses pcb sleepers. I put another layer of cork under the markway to bring the height up. It shouldn't look too bad after its ballasted, but c&l would give a much better appearance if you have the time and patience to build your own ... i didn't have the time sadly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 I think 'skill' is possibly more important than time and patience for handbuilding trackwork, and I'm not sure I have any of those three in great quantities... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Digital Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 Hmmm £49 for a kit from C&L or ready built from Marcway for £29? I just wish there were some decent pictures out there of Marcway points, it seems bizarre that there's nothing on their website. Maybe I should just stick with Peco and find a bit more space for the layout... after all they're ready sprung so I don't have to spend out on tortoises or equivalent too. I have both Peco and Marcway points on my O Gauge layout. Here is one of the 3 way Marcway Points. Regards...John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 If the thought of building points bothers you - you could always have a sector plate hidden under a bridge which will keep costs right down. An example of a small space layout in O gauge is Prof Klyzlrs Chicago Fork in 4 feet plus sector plate - Granted it uses US rolling stock, but using UK stock on it will give you that much more room for operating with more stock! You'll find it here http://www.carendt.c...ex.html#chicago An HO version kept me and several children happily occupied for two days at the Inverness exhibition. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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