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DCC Fitting Guides - Requests


Trains4U
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Hi Gareth

 

Any advice on removing the tender top from the chassis on a Hornby 28xx? Or should I be posting this in the help section?

 

Once I have done this I can think about chipping it.....right now the engine buzzes but the wheels dont turn and I cant get inside to see what the problem may be.

 

Regards from Vancouver

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Hi Gareth

Any chance of Graham Farish class 04 shunter with hardwire and a GF class 37 with correct lighting using a 4 function decoder (also hard wired)

Regards

Colin

 

Not much ;)

I'll add them to the list. The 37 is highly unlikely, but a Farish 04 may get done at some point. I need a customer model to do the job on before the guide can be done.

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  • 3 weeks later...

A guide to fitting DCC to Heljan O Gauge Hymeks & 47s and Tower Models Jinties and 14XX would be appretiated!

 

Cheers,

 

Stephen

 

Hi Stephen,

 

We don't sell O gauge (Apart from specially ordered Heljan and Bachmann) and I've never been asked to fit DCC to an O gauge engine.

 

now if you want to send me your models, I'll have a go (for a fee of course) but unless I recieve the appropriate models from a customer I'll be unable to do a guide. (As with any guide for any scale),

 

Cheers

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c an you please help me with class 25 Hornby R327 as it has different colour wires(white&green),ive done a couple of engines with traditional wiring(red&black),but this is confusing me.thanks in antisipation.

 

The colours of the wires are pretty much irrelevant, and don't trust that red and black match polarity (They don't in some models)

 

I've seen class 25s with black, green, white and brown wiring.

 

The quetions I need to ask are, does the model have lights? if not, do the wires run through the top of the glazing unit to a toothed metal block or not?

 

Finally, does the ringfield motor have screws on the terminals or does it have folded over brush terminals?

 

 

 

Based on the majority of 25s that I've done, I'm assuming the model is without lights and that the wires go up through the glazing to a toothed block.

 

The principles of wiring are the same as for most older ringfield motors. Ensure the terminals are isolated, by removing the spade connectors. Solder the orange and grey wires to the terminals. Snip off the spade connectors and wire the red and black wires from the decoder to these.

 

A simple conversion really. Just don't be alarmed if the colour if the wires are not as expected. Its even more ineresting when all the wires are black...

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A simple conversion really. Just don't be alarmed if the colour if the wires are not as expected. Its even more ineresting when all the wires are black...

 

As in the current release of the 121 by Hornby, even though it is DCC ready, but not for lighting, the board provided does at least have soldering points when you work out which relates the relevant colour wire :rolleyes:

 

and yes it is possible to wire it up so thatyou can use male/female plugs incase you have to remove the body if youve fitted compartment lighting.

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Hi Gareth,

 

The new Bachmann Std 3MT please. Depending how easy it is will determine whether I buy 82016 or wait for a DCC fitted BR(S) version - hopefully it's just a case of undoing screws but if it also includes detaching a speedometer cable or the like, forget it!

 

Thanks,

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Hi Gareth,

 

The new Bachmann Std 3MT please. Depending how easy it is will determine whether I buy 82016 or wait for a DCC fitted BR(S) version - hopefully it's just a case of undoing screws but if it also includes detaching a speedometer cable or the like, forget it!

 

Thanks,

you know, some retailers will fit your choice of decoder free of charge - removing such worries.

If you buy a loco and decoder from us, I'll fit the decoder, and promise to do a guide for it too! ;)

 

In the meantime, I'll see what I can do...

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you know, some retailers will fit your choice of decoder free of charge - removing such worries.

If you buy a loco and decoder from us, I'll fit the decoder, and promise to do a guide for it too! ;)

 

In the meantime, I'll see what I can do...

Fair point. When 82016 is available, I may well take up your offer. In fairness to all retailers, where I buy from is usually determined by the total cost including how much it costs to ship to me in Portugal.

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Minitrix A4 is likely to be very similar to the Britannia and 9F. I've done both the Britannia and 9F with a CT DCX75 above the worm gear (make a small plasticard shelf to fit from the body fixing "tower" to the motor. Front light works fine straight from a function output, with the common positive to the chassis. They were simple installations.

 

Some photos of the Britannia exist on "old RM Web"

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=46360&p=702349&hilit=Minitrix#p702349

 

You could put a sound chip in the tenders (or an ordinary one), but you need at least three wires across the tender-loco gap (four if you want lights) which can make the loco less smooth around corners due to wire drag. By putting the chip in the loco, you don't need any additional wires; the standard single wire plus draw bar are enough for pickups.

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