Chubber Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 Instead of getting on with the build, I've been remiss in playing inside, herewith an interior shot showing the leaky tap on the hose-pipe...[it's no good, I'll have to do the barge boards and fascias soon...] I've been struggling to do some fancy ridge tiles, just to make this model different, but getting very frustrated ! Any questions, fire away. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted February 7, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 7, 2012 Doug, For some fancy ridge tiles, visit your local bead shop (they're popular in Cornwall, at least). Here can be found a variety of odd shapes, beads and other threadable thingies which can be pressed into service as required. I can send you some examples if required. Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benbow Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Having looked at that interior view I think I will give up!! Brilliant Doug. Roger Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 Doug, For some fancy ridge tiles, visit your local bead shop (they're popular in Cornwall, at least). Here can be found a variety of odd shapes, beads and other threadable thingies which can be pressed into service as required. I can send you some examples if required. Stu Hullo, Stu, nice to hear from you, I hadn't thought of beads. Thank you, you always were a gentleman, sir. If the answer below, lifted straight from the pages of Mr Ahern finally begins to look 'right' in my mind I'll go with it, otherwise I will have to think again. I did by using punch pliers http://www.axminster...iers-prod20429/ to make a straight row of holes in thick-ish paper, folding down the line and gluing it up with PVA, which I allowed to dry thoroughly before folding up the pre-scribed edges and trimming it off. Just like that....[adopt Tommy Cooper voice] In truth, it took about half-a-dozen attempts before I got the right spacing, the right degree of scribing and the right paper. Even shellac, my true vade mecum didn't seem to help as it kept splitting until I found out that the paper from a brown paper grocery bag worked best. Don't you just hate showing unweathered stuff? It almost looks plastic, yech, poo, pa-tooh! Again, thanks for your interest, Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted February 7, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 7, 2012 Excellent, as always... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wootang Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 that is damn impressive Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 I am sure I have fitted those ridges to real rooves. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacRat Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Fantastic stuff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 Herewith a picture of my least favourite bit, the doors, getting it all lined up, hanging square and not binding as they open was a PITA. and a couple of shots of it resting in place prior to the terrain being added. No rainwater goods at the moment, they are too fragile. The roof remains removable, and the gutters will be fixed to the roof whilst the downpipes will be glued securely to the walls. Finally, one to show it's relationship with the nearby mill, I think it's important to show that as imposing as many railway buildings are, they often pale into insignificance alongside commercial premises [iMHO] I'll now have to look carefully at the pictures and find the wonky bits, the bits of card that seem to escape paint and the little gaps that I'm sure only appear when you point a camera lens at them... Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 That seems to sit very well in its location. It isa most impressive bit of work. I think the shots of your layout show you have great dedication to detail. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
theoldmansminion Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 very very nice Doug the interior, has such a feel to it, and i love the coats, overalls or whatever hanging up....awesome Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 Hi again, In response to a 'how did I' here is another sketch showing the way I built up the chimneys and cowls. Hope that helps, Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonB Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Doug. great modelling ! Just one small (I hope constructive) point re. the ridge tiles. they are just that, separate inverted 'Y' tiles, and yours do not show mortar joints. The style you have (cleverly) made could have the joint either mid-way between the recesses, or at the mid-point of the recess; prototypically both styles/designs would be practical to make. I'm sure that many will be copying your approach to this roof feature. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 Hi, Don, Nice to hear from you, thank you for your kind remarks........ Doug. great modelling ! Just one small (I hope constructive) point re. the ridge tiles. they are just that, separate inverted 'Y' tiles, and yours do not show mortar joints. The style you have (cleverly) made could have the joint either mid-way between the recesses, or at the mid-point of the recess; prototypically both styles/designs would be practical to make. I'm sure that many will be copying your approach to this roof feature. Have no fear, the joints will appear! My McKay's Building Construction gives various lengths between 12"-18" although the longer ones are plain. Thank you for the timely reminder, before I start weathering etc. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David C Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Just to add to the chorus of appreciation of your work! Both the loco shed and mill look really very good - I'm coming round increasingly to thinking that brick paper is the way to go with brick buildings (!). What did you make the window frames from? I have problems with styrene and card ones bowing and was thinking of using only commercial etched brass products in future to avoid this. I would also like to see more of your layout ... David C Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 Just to add to the chorus of appreciation of your work! Both the loco shed and mill look really very good - I'm coming round increasingly to thinking that brick paper is the way to go with brick buildings (!). What did you make the window frames from? I have problems with styrene and card ones bowing and was thinking of using only commercial etched brass products in future to avoid this. I would also like to see more of your layout ... David C Hi, David, these days I tend to make windows such as these by printing out an outline onto self-adhesive paper, sticking it to acrylic sheet, or CD case plastic, and then cutting out the panes of glass and picking them off with a pair of tweezers. There is no need to cut individual panes out, simply run a new [sharp] scalpel blade right across the full width of the windows, the tiny squares of sticky paper remain stuck in the interstices quite well. For white frames such as these, I print out in a pale grey colour so that any slight mis-cutting doesn't show up rudely as were the case if I had printed in black. Clearly, you can print in any colour window frame you want. I have yet to try show some sash windows made this way but it shows promise. Perhaps your frames are warping because the card walls are not sufficiently thick/rigid/well-enough-supported by way of your windows? For window frames that need to be seen to be thicker, i.e. secure type wharehouse windows, I print on satin photopaper and cut out individual panes [PITA] and attach this by laying it on CD case material [glues with MEK] and running a little MEH underneath from a fine brush by 'caterpillar-reaction'. Hope that helps, thank you for your kind remarks, and to everyone who has been generous with the "Likes". Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 I now do my windows this way, including sash types, I just use plain white sticky labels and colour after sticking and cutting out using water colours as they tint the paper but will not take to the glazing material so you can just dab it off once the actual frame is dry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 This is Gauge 1? I can’t believe the level of detail. Absolutely brilliant work. Do keep up posing the pictures, I'm enthralled! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share Posted February 11, 2012 Thank you , Brian, from a modeller of your diameter, sorry, calibre, I take that as praise indeed. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Lets see if I can ask this question without getting tongue tied. Doug, when you did the sides etc, the layers are they covered seperately? If so, do you wrap the paper around to the back of the layer, or cut it flush so it buts up to the layer behind? TIA Khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 Hi, Khris, I know what you mean, a bit busy today, but will answer soon. BWs Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 Lets see if I can ask this question without getting tongue tied. Doug, when you did the sides etc, the layers are they covered seperately? If so, do you wrap the paper around to the back of the layer, or cut it flush so it buts up to the layer behind? TIA Khris I made up the walls as follows 1. Window layer, covered overall with Scalescenes TX01Red Brick, the window apertures slit down the middle and the paper glued back on each side, carefully scribing inside and outside folds to ensure a clean sharp fold. The lower bare edge was to be covered with a windowsill layer, the upper merely coloured with a dark grey crayon. All done with ‘Stik’ adhesive. N.B. Before covering, I cut out the inner wall layer using the window layer as a pattern, carefully tracing the window positions on each side. 2. Windows [self-adhesive paper frames on thin acrylic sheet] stuck to the rear face with ‘Roket’ glue, with an 1/8†overlap as Roket stays slightly flexible when dry. I held each window in place with ‘inside-out’ clothes pegs and introduced a little liquid glue around the edges from whence it flowed around the perimeter of the windows without marking the faces. 3. The inner layer, clad with Scalescenes TX05 Painted Brick covered the inside walls to conceal the back acrylic surfaces of the windows. This could be omitted if the interior is not to be visible. 4. The outer ‘piered’ layer, covered in Scalescenes TX23 Dark Red brick went on last. The paper was not cut to size at the ends, rather a half-inch overlap was left. This overlap was left to cover the exposed edges of the end walls when the four walls were assembled. The whole was left under a weight to dry overnight. 5. For the blue brick piers I cut two strips of Packeto-Cornoflako with 45 degree edges, then covered them with blue brick paper. To do that, and get the angled bend in the paper, I scribed two lines on the reverse of the paper about 0.75mm apart and pre-folded them together several times to make sure they folded evenly down the 30cm lengths. Then I Prit-Stik'd the paper strips, folded them almost together and pushed each of the bevelled card into the fold, moulding the paper around the sharp bevel as best as I could. After a few minutes I burnished the 45 degree bevel with my scalpel handle to 'harden' the angled edge [which also gives a more convincing engineering brick shine to the paper] and when both were dry, I stuck the slightly narrower strip on top of the wider one to make the double bevel top edge. To mitre the corners, I laid a strip out flat, and using a Stanley knife blade guided by a little perspex 45 degree square I cut through the card/paper strip from the back. There, I hope that has helped, Khris, if not, just ask away! Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Hi Doug, Item 4.... when you covered it, did you take the paper right around to the back of the pillars. What I am effectively trying to ask is, Does the paper do a U shape? The left hand upright of the U is the face The bottom of the U is the edge and the Right hand side of the U the back that is glued to the window layer. Khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 Khris, I'll do a sketch when/if I get back safely from a shopping expedition to buy flour, etc, we've been snowed in for a week with daytime temps not even reaching 0 C, so I have to venture out with the car. The main roads are reasonable I hear, yet I have to get out of the village, I'm taking a couple of pensioners, too, who have run out, so I'll post soon, God willing. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 Hi Doug, Item 4.... when you covered it, did you take the paper right around to the back of the pillars. What I am effectively trying to ask is, Does the paper do a U shape? The left hand upright of the U is the face The bottom of the U is the edge and the Right hand side of the U the back that is glued to the window layer. Khris I'm not exactly sure what you are asking, but as I prepared these two drawings for a chum as a 'How-to' I think they should answer what I believe I think you are trying to make me understand what you'd like me to understand you are thinking about asking....? Cheers, Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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