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Nice job on the water tank Castle.......so many people forget that essentials like drinking water and also gas had to be supplied to outlying stations ,signal boxes etc ....not everywhere was on mains ...and these vehicles add interest to train workings and formations ...

 

Regards Trevor ... :sungum:

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Hi All,

 

Thanks for the compliments guys - they are much appreciated!

 

Trevor: you are right when you say people don't realise how much relied on the railway. So many little outposts and so on didn't have access to mains supplies and so on. There can't be many places left in the UK that don't have at least mains water (I know there are still a few outlying communities). Most signal boxes and out of the way loco sheds must have relied on this sort of traffic in one form or another.

 

The wagon collection at Didcot reflects the now past wider national reliance on the railway too. There are wagons for any number of goods and services. The CORAL (for crate glass), the TEVAN (for dry goods like tea and cocoa powder) and the SIPHON (for milk) are just a few examples. Unlike today, the roads just did the last little bit.

 

Cornamuse: Actually, the tank is a 3,000 gallon one, the same as (I think - I stand by for corrections!) as is on the vast majority of 6 wheel milk tanks. Certainly, to the Mk. 1 eyeball, SR milk tank No. S4409 which is also in the collection, looks its equal. Does anyone else know better?

 

The main differences as between DW 101 and the Hornby model (which is based on a GWR prototype I believe) is the four tie down straps, the locking mechanism on the tank lid and the hose rack that is on one end. There are a few other bits and pieces that were bashed about but it has been a while since I did this!

 

The great thing about this wagon is that it is an easy conversion from a cheap proprietary model to something relatively unusual and interesting. You could get away quite easily with a paint job and transfers so it is a good one for anyone to have a go at. For the record the numbers were (DW) 101 - 106.

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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  • 2 weeks later...

HI All,

 

Sorry about the lack of updates but I have been a bit busy recently with one thing and another. To keep the thread going, here is the results of a rummage in my display case!

 

Here is another one from the vaults - No go in a MOGO?

 

The GWR ASMO vans were very long wheelbase 4 wheel CCTs in the same vein as the afore mentioned Mogo and middle size Damo. The original intent for these vans was to transport motor cars and other road vehicles. They had a series of tie downs and moveable wheel chocks inside and a pair of large end doors to allow their cargo in and out. The ASMO was essentially the big daddy of the fleet, a scaled up Damo adding an extra 3' to the 19' wheel base and giving total length over head stocks of 33'. Our particular vehicle is No. 116954, built in 1930 to Diagram G.26 of Lot 1059. This particular version has the single end doors; there was another version (Diagram G32) that had bi-folding end doors that enabled vehicles to be driven through several ASMOs whilst the vehicles remained coupled. It seems a lot more sensible that way to me but who am I to speak out against the GWR Carriage and Wagon Department? Like so many of the vehicles at Didcot, No. 116954 is the last surviving complete ASMO but there are rumours of another incomplete body surviving on a farm somewhere. No. 116954 is currently bereft its woodwork in the back of the carriage shed awaiting its chance at rebirth.

 

post-14393-0-27264700-1333398094_thumb.jpg

 

Now for the model. While looking for a project a little while back, I came across this beast in its tarpaulin sarcophagus at the back of the carriage shed. Being a thoroughly nosey sort, I started asking questions and found out what it was. After climbing through it and looking it up in the wagon bible ('A History of GWR Goods Wagons') I felt that its similarity, especially about the end doors and round the chassis regions, to the Parkside Python, it was too good a kit bash to pass up. I hadn't seen a model of one before either. A PC 37 Python Kit and an extra roof was ordered and duly arrived and a suitable section from the Evergreen range of styrene strip was sourced from the local model emporium. The sides could not be simpler and these were fashioned from Evergreen pre - planked sheet of the correct size and the door lines were scraped in with a broken scalpel blade. The door hinges and other odds and ends were made from styrene micro strip and the whole lot was stuck together on the stretched Python floor. A dose of Deluxe Materials 'Liquid Gravity' was also added.

 

post-14393-0-00720500-1333398143_thumb.jpg

 

After that, all the relevant bits from the Parkside frames (W irons, brake hanger and the like) were cut off and transferred across to the ASMO. A great deal of the detail was reused and where needed, extended with brass wire and styrene strip. All the etched handles, steps, etc. came from Frogmore and the lamp brackets are from Mainly Trains.

 

post-14393-0-21465800-1333398179_thumb.jpg

 

The paint and weathering is my usual mix of Halfords base colours and Phoenix accurate shades all squirted out of a spray can. I do own an airbrush and will use it on occasion but I don't have the time to set it up, use it and clean it all the time. I tend to set aside a half day for such things and these spare moments come along once in a blue moon so there is always a small group of stock awaiting their turn to cycle through the paint shop. I am currently collecting a batch of Auto trailers for said task but that is a tale for another time...

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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Hi All,

 

Thanks for the kind comments Trevor!

 

Here is another one from the vaults:

 

A real Welsh rare bit (of kit!)

 

The 56XX 0-6-2s were a Collett design based on a traditional Welsh design of tank locomotive that the GWR inherited at the grouping of 1920s. The design was favoured in the coal mining valleys as it had good adhesive weight, plenty of power (they were rated 5MT by BR!) and had plenty of braking force. They were machines shaped by their environment. This Swindon version did not get of to an illustrious start but soon settled down to become a very valued part of the GWR fleet. They operated far and wide all over the system despite them being synonymous with the Welsh lines.

 

post-14393-0-74837300-1333908145_thumb.jpg

 

Such was the poor state of the original Welsh 0-6-2s that Swindon was not able to build the large numbers needed alone in the short timeframe required. As a result, the firm of Armstrong Whitworth were contracted to build 50 machines. Didcot's No. 6697 (A/W works No. 985) was one such machine and is the only historic GWR designed steam locomotive not to be built at Swindon in the collection. It was also the only one of the nine preserved 56XXs not to go to Barry Scrapyard, being bought by the GWS in 1966 direct from Croes Newydd (Wrexham) shed, where with No. 5605 they had become the last of the type in BR service. This made the class one of the last GWR designed types in regular service. No. 6697 first went to the former GWS Ashchurch depot and made it to Didcot in 1970. Sadly, it suffered a collapsed flue tube while working on the main demonstration line in the mid 1970's that injured her crew and as a result it hasn't steamed since. It's time will come again one day - for now however, it slumbers on...

 

post-14393-0-00114000-1333908214_thumb.jpg

 

Meanwhile, in OO gauge land - a Bachmann 56XX Class was purchased and thoroughly examined. This is a nice model out of the box but it really needs to have the front coupling removed to get the full effect of the massive overhang the prototype seems to have at the front end. There were just a few modifications needed to represent No. 6697. The photo of her in 1952 on Hatton Bank in the book 'The Didcot Story' shows her to not only have a tool box on the driver's side front footplate but also that she wore the GWR / BR intermediate livery. Missing on the Bachmann moulding is the lubricator pot under the front step of the driver's side tank and the brass Armstrong Whitworth makers plates.

 

post-14393-0-02248100-1333908244_thumb.jpg

 

The transfers for the intermediate GWR egyptian serif style British Railways text came from Fox and the number plates came from Modelmaster. The original BR crest was removed with Decal and Detail Remover from Joe's Model Trains which I can thoroughly recommend as it strips off pad / screen printed marking and decals with ease and gently too so you can be quite specific and selective with it. It also smells lemony fresh too!

 

post-14393-0-56939200-1333908281_thumb.jpg

 

The toolbox size was guesstimated from the remaining mounting holes as it is now missing from the real thing and constructed out of styrene along with the lubrication pot and various other details. An approximation of the makers plates were made from a couple of tiny squares of off-cut brass from the number plates. That was it apart from a few other bits and pieces and a splash of paint to disguise the new arrivals where needed. Scale couplings, weathering and real coal were applied in the traditional Castle fashion and into the display cabinet it went to await a crew, a train to pull and a layout to run on!

 

That's it for now - I go, I come back later!

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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You've done a great job there on your 56XX. The additions you've made and the weathering are spot on.

 

The overhang of the smokebox does give it an imposing look. I've been eyeing up the JLTRT kit as a future O gauge project.

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more lovely work. I am really going to have to deal with my weathering issues and make something that looks like it might actually have been used :)

once more - nice eye candy :)

Andy

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Hi All,

 

Thanks to all for the kind words and all those that keep pushing the little 'like this' button thingy!

 

Kevin: I would love to see this made on RM WEB in the senior scale if you do succumb to temptation. Go on, you know it makes sense... The thing that people forget about the 56XX is that it was the power equal of a Black Five! They were truly powerful beasts as the one that lived on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway until recently proved. The overhang at the front and the little trailing wheel set really gives them a unique look doesn't it? I love the fact that the overhang is SO pronounced that the lower middle lamp iron is attached to the front buffer beam!

 

I recognise that avatar of yours - now, where have I seen that view before?! Stay tuned for a Castle special on 5900...

 

CORNAMUSE: there is nothing 'black art' about weathering. It really isn't even a truly artistic process in a sense - it simply relies on our ability to scale down objects from full size and that includes the dirt! The MOST important thing is to start with a prototype picture. This shows where the grub lived. It need not be exactly the same vehicle, types of vehicles that live in the same environment at the same time tend to get dirty in similar ways. I have been known to use end of steam loco photos (as they are sometimes in colour, unlike my chosen GWR / BR(W) transition period) and simply tone it down a bit! The exaggerated neglect in the late pictures vividly illustrates where the grub should be. Don't over do it either, it is far easier to add a bit more than to take it off! To do 6697 I have put more than one layer of powder and then matt varnish sealing coats on. The varnish also has the advantage of knocking the powder colours back a bit too, helping with the subtlety. The final bit of paint chips, etc is done with G/W acrylics at the end.

 

My chosen weapons of powders and G/W paints are good as to a certain extent, if you leave the base colours to cure (not just dry but really go hard - at least overnight, preferably for a few days), you can mostly wash it off if you get it wrong. The best thing to do is to start with a bit of cheap rolling stock from the bargain or broken bits box at a show or swap meet and just have a go! It doesn't matter if you get it wrong - just consider the few pence you spent on the wagon as an investment in your skills as it sails through the air on its way to the bin when it goes wrong! Go on, give it a go!

 

If you would like, I will put together one of the many (!) wagon kits that I have and do a step by step photo job on the weathering of it. Sej asked me to do so a little while back and in the great tradition of model makers everywhere, I haven't got round to it yet...

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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Hi Bishop,

 

The guys I get the stuff from is my local model shop which is Model Junction:

 

http://www.modeljunction.info/estore/

 

They specialise in things that are more Norfolk and Western rather than Great Western in something call HO (and other scales). Who knows what that is all about...? They do open a few days a week but are mainly Internet based. They are a really nice family firm, willing to help and I cannot fault the service, biscuits or the tea handed out when I visit! Thoroughly recommended - service as it used to be! They have loads of really great stuff like this there and it is worth going to if you are in the area just for a nose around.

 

The stuff is called Joe's Model Trains Decal and Detail Remover. I can't remember what I paid for it but it doesn't seem to go off as I have had my bottle for a while and it goes a long way. 

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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Hi All,

 

Thanks to all for the kind words and all those that keep pushing the little 'like this' button thingy!

 

Kevin: I would love to see this made on RM WEB in the senior scale if you do succumb to temptation. Go on, you know it makes sense... The thing that people forget about the 56XX is that it was the power equal of a Black Five! They were truly powerful beasts as the one that lived on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway until recently proved. The overhang at the front and the little trailing wheel set really gives them a unique look doesn't it? I love the fact that the overhang is SO pronounced that the lower middle lamp iron is attached to the front buffer beam!

 

I recognise that avatar of yours - now, where have I seen that view before?! Stay tuned for a Castle special on 5900...

 

The uniqueness is what's drawn me to the 56XX. It looks and smells GWR, but is really very different from the usual Swindon style. I hadn't notice the position of the lower middle lamp bracket, I guess they had to put it somewhere! I'm pretty well off for stuff to build at the moment, there's the 58XX I'm building at the moment, and I've also got two 6 wheel milk tankers, a MK1 BG and a MK1 BSK to build. There's a good chance I could do a 56XX in the future.

 

5900 is a Hall isn't it? ;) I took that photo during my visit to Didcot last summer. Must try to get up there again to take some detail photo's of 4866 before I finish my 58XX.

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Hi Kev,

 

It's the mix of the older traditional Welsh valleys loco shape and the GWR Swindonization with the 56XXs for sure! Like Swindon, but just a little bit different. I like the slightly mutant look of the 72XXs too for similar reasons. My to do / unfinished project pile is glacial in both size and speed of progress so I sympathise with your situation completely!

 

Can I suggest a visit to see us on the 12th May?

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/54785-steam-aid-didcot-railway-centre-12th-may-2012

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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Here is the final instalment in the MICA / TEVAN builds.

 

Painting? It's all black and white to me!

 

The two wagons have been finished now and needed paint, transfers and grubbiness to finish them off. The paint seemed simple to start with with white uppers and black frames but the harder I looked, the more complex it got. Certain bits of metalwork was picked out in black, and that differed amongst individual vans and time period. The door gear tended to be black and the hinges were either black or dark with dirt and rust (black and white pictures here of course) so they got blackened too. In order to get the best look, I first painted the vans with Halfords rattle can white primer, masked the body off and then used their matt black to do the frames. The roof is done in the appropriate Phoenix shade - also rattle can applied. The details were then picked out in games workshop Chaos Black with a fine brush. Transfers are from the excellent CCT range and I am extremely grateful for the extra assistance and information that Mr Isherwood gave me with this project - thanks!

 

The finish in the join on one end of the TEVAN where I had let in the new piece had after paint, made the plank line disappear. Rather than trying to reinstate the line (that could have done far more harm than good) I decided to paint this particular plank as if it had been replaced but not yet repainted to disguise the problem. This was done through the use of various of the brown shades and washes in the G/W range. I decided to heavily weather the TEVAN as this seems to have been the default state for these vans but to go a little easier on the MICA. To this end I used a couple of ink washes to represent rust on the metalwork on the TEVAN as also shown in the photo below. This is before the dusty rubbish was added with the Tamiya powders.

 

post-14393-0-28644700-1334442979_thumb.jpg

 

TEVAN No. 79933 ended up looking like this post 'dirtyfication'. I also picked out the buffer heads and shanks on both vans using one of the darker G/W silver colours. This one is pretty much there now.

 

post-14393-0-11506600-1334443034_thumb.jpg

 

MICA No. 105860 is also completed and now sits alongside its Dia. X brother in the display case awaiting its first duty.

 

post-14393-0-25946100-1334443075_thumb.jpg

 

This has been an interesting build and I can recommend the kits to anyone who wants to make a start in the wonderful world of whitemetal wagons! They go together well enough and need fairly minor fettling to make that happen. That to my mind, if not excessive, is both good practice and part of the fun of building a kit in any medium. I have yet to purchase David Geen's kit of the Dia. Y2 Fruit van to build No. 47886 and the OPEN C kit to build No. 94835 but I look forward to building them. The only thing I would say against it is that if you are not familiar with the prototype, you may find putting the brake gear together a bit confusing as the instructions don't have any diagrams about this. You have done your research first before taking a project on however, haven't you? With the internet at our beck and call this is of course, less of a problem than it might have been in the past though.

 

Stay tuned for further developments!

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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Hi All,

 

Here is the start of the Castle method of weathering posts. I am not saying this is any right way of doing it or that my results look right to anyone but me but this his how things happen on my workbench. I hope it is useful to someone out there!

 

Weathering? I'm open to it!

 

The prototype for this one is No. 117993 of Diagram O29 5 plank open wagon, built in 1930. It was one of about 6,000 similar wagons that went all over the UK as part of the common user pool. This particular wagon made it a long while, escaping the threat of restoration (!) but it finally succumbed and was completed last year. It is now complete and in working order with a tarpaulin to keep the weather off and preserve the efforts of my fellow volunteers!

 

post-14393-0-90045200-1334854216_thumb.jpg

 

The model is promising to be fairly simple as Ratio produce this very wagon and on the sprue, it looks pretty good.

 

post-14393-0-32741500-1334854382_thumb.jpg

 

post-14393-0-42972500-1334854418_thumb.jpg

 

The only modification I am going to make is the fitting of some three link couplings and some liquid gravity ballast. As it was rare for freight stock to be repainted unless absolutely necessary, and the fact that we want to have a good go at weathering it, we will do it in a grotty old GWR livery! My chosen GWR / BR transition time period means I can get away with some stock in Great Western shades. First, I drilled out the axle bearing holes to the correct size...

 

post-14393-0-09364200-1334854543_thumb.jpg

 

...and then made up the monocoque structure of the chassis and body and got it rolling.

 

post-14393-0-64631500-1334854641_thumb.jpg

 

A test fit of the couplings, a hint of break gear, the other detail parts and some liquid gravity and we are ready for paint!

 

post-14393-0-95923900-1334854756_thumb.jpg

 

After taking the wheels and couplings off and then using some blu tack to mask the bearings, we start with a layer of Halfords finest primer...

 

post-14393-0-06435600-1334854854_thumb.jpg

 

...and end the session with a layer of Halfords matt black as an undercoat for the GWR grey. We now have to leave this to go off as the the Phoenix shades are a different chemical make up so I want the acrylic to be properly dry before I have a go at doing the top coat.

 

post-14393-0-71510000-1334855001_thumb.jpg

 

We will throw some paint and transfers at it next time!

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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Hi All,

 

Here is the next instalment of the weathering posts.

 

You can have any colour you like - as long as its grey...

 

Another good reason for choosing GWR freight grey livery is the total lack of masking! All we need to do is spray a coat of Phoenix freight grey on. I make sure that I have done the sides, frames, ends and the tops of the sides. I am not that bothered about the insides as the internals of such wagons were usually unpainted and I have already made sure of the coverage of coats of primer and matt black. Time to let it dry again...

 

post-14393-0-75507600-1334855332_thumb.jpg

 

Ironically, we now have to totally destroy the ultimate matt finish of Phoenix with a bit of gloss varnish to give the transfers something to stick to! Again, where dissimilar paints are being used, allowing the underneath coats of paint to dry thoroughly is essential. A light coat here is good enough.

 

post-14393-0-00277800-1334855373_thumb.jpg

 

We then have a go at the decals. The kit has a small sheet of letters and so on and I have some others from Fox. I use the Micro Sol and Micro Set Decal solutions to get the things to conform to the planking lines on the body and stick properly.

 

post-14393-0-46072900-1334855440_thumb.jpg

 

The information for the 1940's livery comes from the prototype and the excellent tome 'The Great Western Way' by John Lewis et al. While I wouldn't recommend it as light bedtime reading (it is really thick and heavy!) there is all sorts of fascinating and very helpful stuff within the covers for modellers and preservationists alike. As an aside, the recipe for the tar like substance used to paint coach bogies is in there. The gang that restored Pannier No. 3650 is now working on the restoration of C. C. T. MONSTER No. 484. This stuff has been hugely successful in preserving the century old bogies on this vehicle and the metal underneath it looks almost like new! Our ancestors certainly knew what they were doing...

 

post-14393-0-30483700-1334855589_thumb.jpg

 

The few coloured details such as the white brake handles and the black cast wagon plates on the sole bars are picked out with Games Workshop Acrylics.

 

post-14393-0-07031300-1334855494_thumb.jpg

 

We then have to re - matt our finish and Humbrol comes to the rescue again. The next job will be to have a go at painting the bare wood on the inside of the wagon and a repaired plank in the side.

 

post-14393-0-63738600-1334855670_thumb.jpg

 

That is for this time!

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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Hi All,

 

Here is the next bit of the weathering posts.

 

Weathering - wooden that be nice?

 

Right then, the next thing we are going to do is to put the wood effects on the wagon now. The plan is to do the insides as bare wood as these bits were rarely painted on the real thing. The other thing we are going to do is put in a repair plank in the top row. These planks were frequently damaged is service - particularly as things were lifted in and out of open wagons with a crane. It happened at Didcot just the other day to one of the wagons and this particular wagon has a history of loosing top row planks as the picture here shows:

 

www.didcotrailwaycentre.org.uk/wagons/117993/117993pic_02.html

 

The repairs more often than not were done quickly and left unpainted and that will add to the visual interest of the finished model. The pre restoration picture also gives us a good idea of the various actions of weathering. Things to look at include the rusty, dusty muck around the axle boxes. The rust streaks on the body woodwork. The dirty grey / brown effect on the internal wood and the vertical dark staining on various planks on the body.

 

All of the paints I am using to do this are Games Workshop Acrylics. This is because they are easy to work with and water based and therefore non toxic and much less stinky! This last point always goes down well with the people you share your living space with... We will start by giving the various internal bare wood bits a coat of darker brown base coat. I use a small brush and remember to make the brush strokes go in the direction of the grain of the wood - i.e. along the length of the plank, not across it.

 

post-14393-0-25809000-1334855991_thumb.jpg

 

The next job is to use a mid range brown and to streak it on to the darker brown in fairly thin lines to start to get some depth to the colour

 

post-14393-0-14690700-1334856072_thumb.jpg

 

Then, using a final lighter brown, even thinner lines are done to finish off the grain effect.

 

post-14393-0-25868100-1334856156_thumb.jpg

 

The same process is then done with the repair plank on the door, the only difference being that we start with the mid brown and work up from there through lighter shades. This is because the wood here is newer and hasn't been exposed to all the effects of the environment.

 

post-14393-0-41226900-1334856338_thumb.jpg

 

Once that is finished, a few different Games Workshop brown and dark grey washes are splashed about to bring the whole lot together.

 

post-14393-0-40196100-1334856288_thumb.jpg

 

Well, I now have to finish the other sides - enjoy!

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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Hi All,

 

Here is the final bit of the weathering posts.

 

I don't know weather this is right...

 

Once more into the breach dear friends and on to the chronic levels of grubby! Firstly we start with a grey / black wash and we are going to replicate the dark streaking we see in the prototype picture. this is as simple as can be - just needing the wash slapping on with a mid size brush in downward strokes to replicate what we saw in the picture earlier.

 

post-14393-0-82244100-1334856580_thumb.jpg

 

Then we switch to a red / brown wash that gives us some rust streaks and a bit of texture on things like the corner posts. The picture really doesn't show it too well though. Oh, for some photographic ability.

 

post-14393-0-65527500-1334856625_thumb.jpg

 

We then start in with the weathering powders and first port of call is the rusty colours on the chassis. Firstly, the darker shade pretty much all over...

 

post-14393-0-13617700-1334856773_thumb.jpg

 

...and then a little more selectively with the lighter, more orange shade. I usually pay particular attention to the cast iron brake blocks on any vehicle here as they were rarely, if ever painted and always show up in pictures.

 

post-14393-0-16546100-1334856839_thumb.jpg

 

A shot of the grey dry brush effect powder then gives us a few subtle tones in the grey paint on the woodwork as well as the chassis.

 

post-14393-0-97713500-1334856929_thumb.jpg

 

I used a dark silver shade of acrylic to paint the buffer heads and then some grease coloured powders and paints are used to represent the muck that builds up here in reality. The brake handles had got a bit too dark too - their use kept them cleaner in day to day service - and had another splash of white added. A sandy shade of powder was used on the bare woodwork inside as I felt that it had got a little too dark for comfort and then the sealing coat of matt varnish goes on to finish it off.

 

post-14393-0-53133900-1334857009_thumb.jpg

 

We then reunite it with its wheels and coupling and we are done. In the spirit of the great democracy that is RM WEB, I will now invite suggestions as to what load to put in here although I reserve the right to say no if I really don't like it or it is just plain silly! Democracy to a point at least...

 

post-14393-0-83397000-1334857081_thumb.jpg

 

For those that like to know these things, the total time for the build is about 4 -5 hours in total over a few evenings and in short bursts.

 

Well, I am going for a lie down in a cold, dark room - it isn't often that I set my mind to a model and get it done quickly like this. It is all a bit of a shock to the system really!

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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