Ruston Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Thanks for posting the standard gauge pics. I take it they are built from the Mercian Models kit? Just wondering how you rate them compared with Agenoria stuff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 Not quite Dave - I produced the kit for someone in the Bristol area, where it was on the market for quite a few years (Castle models? I can't remember to save my life!). It was an all-white metal job from top to bottom (at their request) with only one small panel of etches, but with milled frames and rods. These are the origininal white metal version. Seemingly, years later, the kit has found its way into Mercians range, but now has an etched saddle tank, and therefore the boiler barrel/firebox/smoke box assembly must be different too - because the one thing I have noticed is that the new assembly is shorter than the original, so the chimney now doesn't line up with the cylinders correctly (or at least that's my recollection of seeing the kit). Whether anything else has been changed, I don't know. In all other respects, it was a very easy kit to put together. I am building one of their Garretts, and I'm afraid thus far it's a bit of a nightmare. (i'm not very far into it). It pre-date's CAD, and I've discovered some annoying a-symmetry - but I'll get it beaten! 've not built any Angenora, although I do have an NG loco waiting to be built some tume in the future - so I don't know what they're really like! I'm very sorry not to be any help there.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 Regarding the Ford, for those who might be interested, the biggest transformation in its appearance is from the thick glossy 'toy' paint to the more realistic dull patina. Before: Work in progress: So often, to dull something down, we slap on a coat of Matt varnish. With this, it was obvious that there was quite enough paint on there already, thank you - so I wanted to take something off the surface. I started with some 1000 grit wet and dry (wet), which worked well, but was only any good on flat panels, and there weren't many of them..... So I moved on to my glass fibre pen, and extended the fibres about 5mm, and 'worked' them, so they were looser, like a paint brush, rather than rigid, coarse and damaging. I then went over the whole body, matting it down very satisfactorily. To get more of a real scale paint finish back to it, I then buffed it back up (to taste) with a kitchen towel (paper being an abrasive). All in all, I was very pleased by the transformation of a cheap Corgi, to a nice model, simply by working on the finish. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 Having had a look at the Mercian Yorkshire, there is very little remaining of my original kit other than miscellaneous castings. Even the original wheel smoke box draft has been replaced with a conventional type, and the tank filler and whistle replaced with different styles (the original patterns have probably been lost). Sadly, in the re-working of the new running plate/cab/saddle tank, the lengths haven't quite worked out, out nothing now lines up correctly.... Ah well! So, if anyone wants one remaining original, let me know! :-) - edit - now gone to a new home........... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 here's the completed Lister (teeny, though it is....) with a decoder stuffed behind the lower buffer beam. The decoder is a CT DCX74zD. - almost the smallest you can get - there is one smaller that I know of ...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 I've not put this on this thread, but I deliberately went for an overcast, about-to-rain sky for this layout, instead of the more usual sunny blue sky. I some how wanted the oppressive feel. We'll see if it works. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold mudmagnet Posted August 18, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 18, 2012 Wow! Very good! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted August 18, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 18, 2012 Yep, it works Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 I'm glad some very good modellers like it..... The sky was done with a white primer background, with grey primer clouds sprayed from the top down ( some small high-lighting clouds in white was done in sponge ). A surprisingly easy technique for a non-artist like myself - just try not to be too even - but if you over do one colour, o back over it with the other. Just go lightly, and DON'T get any runs...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 The Pug on duty Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Y Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 We'll see if it works. Absolutely first rate, in all respects. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 Bless you, mate! (hope to meet in the flesh sometime!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 everyone knows how much I like rust! So here's some more. KBscale's excellent 40 gallon drums rusted up somewhat..... Rust is very much a personal taste thing, but my preferred method is (after priming) a base coat metalcoat gunmetal, and then dark rust stippled in with a stiff brush, followed by highlights of light rust, and then teeny highlights of orange. If one is then after the 'aged rust' effect as on these barrels, then I immediately cover the whole thing in talcum powder (even if, or especially if it is still a bit wet) and then polish it back off with a tissue or kitchen towel, and that gives you the look below. (these drums are firmly glued down in this location to prevent the lorry from being driven over the edge whilst manoeuvring!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcf Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Lovely stuff Giles, I think I will throw my old oil drums away and start again! Just need to work from your instructions. Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 Regarding the grass on this layout, I've mostly used Polak fibres. I use (mostly) 4.5mm Spring, mixed about 60:40 ish with 6mm winter for the base colour - which is really quite pale. Its also better with a sprinkling of 4.5mm autumn in there occasionally. Scenic wise, I scrim the polystyrene base - that is, cover it in a layer of butter muslin (or any thin, permeable cloth) and PVA/ready-mix plaster, worked right through the cloth (not sitting on top.....) so it forms a hard but reasonably flexible and resilient shell. In fact I precoloured this mix with raw umber to make it a dry light earth shade. In some areas I didn't pre-colour, and painted by hand - varying the colour - but it doesn't need or want to go too dark! Prior to grassing, I armed myself with some dried and sieved (very fine) earth, and ash from my workshop fire - but any ash is very good and very useful - gather it in little pots - it's very handy! I then grassed with my Noch GrassMaster, in the absolutely normal way - but where the grass was thinning out, either by accident or design, I sprinkled on either ash or very fine soil onto any wet glue I could see - and this worked really well. I certainly never bothered with any 'pre-layer' of anything, and I don't miss it. All this gave a nice plain 'field like' grass, with the pale blades sticking up over the colour, which was what I wanted - but no real variation.... I then added a second layer in small patches (in the same mix) which works, but can look a bit 'gluey' somehow - but adds to the dimension and texture. but I then started adding destinct clumps both large and small in both the original mix, and in a mix of autumn 4.5 and winter 6mm 60:40, which looked really good, and very natural. these can be placed in open areas, or specifically placed around walls or trees - I originally used them on top of the retaining wall - and then they spread like wildfire! The technique is simply to grab a quantity of your mix, and roll it into a 'cigarette' between your palms, apply a puddle of glue where you want your grass, pull out 1/2" of your 'cigarette', and poke it into your glue and leave it to dry (as it goes off you can play with it a bit....). when it's dry, give it a vicious hoovering, and lo! you've got a really nice, natural looking clump.... or at least I think I did.... It's then a matter of weeds, bushes, flowers, trees to season and taste...... For long grass, I used Randomly cut lengths (of about 12-20mm) of International Models long grass fibres (about 100mm long) in a mix with the normal Polak grass, applied cigarette style into PVA. I've not tried it through the GrassMaster yet. This one (in bad lighting) shows the variation of spring and autumn in the mix Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Giles I've not been on here much recently but this layout just gets better and better. I cannot find the superlatives to adequately describe it. Absolutely stunning. This has become a masterclass in scenic work, weathering ........... oh, and just about everything else! Can't wait for the next instalment and photos! Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart-AU Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 HI Outstanding layout.. You have a great skill in building layouts that just work and anamating tipping of the wagon, having the truck move and go backwards was just a delight to see. Thanks so much for sharing, now where is my O-14 stuff again. Stuart-AU Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 25, 2012 Author Share Posted August 25, 2012 Cheers Gents, but you have to remember you don't see the c**p photos! Anyway, you should look to your own stuff for excellent work...... If anyone wants any more info on anything in particular - they should only mention it........ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 25, 2012 Author Share Posted August 25, 2012 the lower fiddle yard is now done. A simple two-road affair, that swings across the 'road'. Both lines are live all the time (being DCC), so the wiring is simply a two-line feed. It is secured to the main baseboard with one bolt, lined up with two pattern-makers dowels, and is supported by a single leg. The tracks line up by the sector plate reaching its end-stop (a block of wood on the underside) all in all, as simple as it could possibly be. There are only two mildly interesting things. 1. The track was 20 years old, and as filthy as you can imagine. I resurrected it (as I now prepare all my track) with Duraglit silver polish, which does a beautiful restoration job, and smooths it out - the opposite of using an abrasive rubber on it... It make it easier to clean subsequently. 2. Sticking wooden stop blocks accurately to the underside of the sector plate. I coated 2/3rds of the block with PVA, and then applied superglue to either end (clear of the PVA), and then firmly placed the block in location. The superglue held it well til the PVA did its job. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
artizen Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 Cool... someone else who mixes PVA and superglue!!! I consider the use of superglue as the clamp that holds while the real glue does its work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 27, 2012 Author Share Posted August 27, 2012 Some firemen habitually take the opportunity to clean their fires while they're waiting...... these old drums get left lying around.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 Giles Now you're just teasing us! Superb. Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted September 7, 2012 Author Share Posted September 7, 2012 I've basically completed the scenics now - apart from tidging - which will on for ever! I'm madly trying to finish the upper fiddle yard, and then on to build a second RC truck. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted September 7, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 7, 2012 I'm running out of superlatives here Giles! Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arpster Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 What absolutely exquisite modelling. It all just looks so natural; the colours, the topography of the land, the vehicles, the little details. Wonderful stuff. Arp Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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