lyneux Posted August 6, 2012 Author Share Posted August 6, 2012 Is that a Yeoman JYA I spy in the background, too? Yes - it's one of a pair of detailed S-Kits wagons. Home made transfers on that one too! I've used a company called Red Firecracker for my stuff. Thanks that's helpful: I remember this bloke from the FGW set that you showed me last year, right? Seems pretty good for short runs. How much does he charge for e.g. an A4 sheet? Completing the artwork will take me quite a bit longer so I've decided to do the first rake of 6 with the Fox transfers for the moment and with my own TOPs panels printed onto Crafty (just to save time). I don't think that the slightly under-scale ARC letters are all that bad. Having studied loads of photos of these rakes, it seems the ARC ones were repainted around 1990/1991. It was about this time that they got new owner logos (CAIB instead of Procor) and probably when they got re-classified as JTA/JUAs. This made for an interesting mix of dirty and refurbished wagons (all in ARC livery). The other minor detail difference was the increase number of warning flashes on the wagon ends (two each side, rather than one in the middle) as well as gaining blue contact information panels in place of yellow ones. I'm just wondering whether the re-classification to JTAs happened "overnight" or whether there really was a significant period when they ran together as PTAs and JTAs or whether the unrefurbished wagons also received updated TOPs panels? Photographic evidence is hard to come by of whole rakes where I can read the data panels. Paul Bartlett's site (http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/arcaggregatebox) seems to have photos from 1987 and 1992. In '87 they were unrefurbished PTAs but by '92 they were all refurbished JTAs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steadfast Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Thanks that's helpful: I remember this bloke from the FGW set that you showed me last year, right? Seems pretty good for short runs. How much does he charge for e.g. an A4 sheet? Yep, thats the one! Price depends on number of colours used, how much of a sheet you use etc. Did you see my FGW stuff still on the sheet? This cost me £10-15 for an A5 size roughly, with 3 colours (white, blue and pink). If there are any cockups in printing, he'll send you those too, which may well include some usable stuff. Best bet is to drop him an email via his website, he'll explain what formats he takes, resolution to use etc. Really good guy, couldn't be more helpful Can't with JTA vs PTA unfortunately, before my time jo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Hi Guy, I've only just found the recent posts on your project, having been away on holiday and done some intensive modelling thereafter! The wagons in the pictures of post #18 loook really nice - well done. I admire the way you have virtually manufactured your own kit. (I shall have to get some lessons in CAD drawing.) Looking forward to seeing the completed rake of ten wagons. Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glorious NSE Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 I'm just wondering whether the re-classification to JTAs happened "overnight" or whether there really was a significant period when they ran together as PTAs and JTAs or whether the unrefurbished wagons also received updated TOPs panels? Photographic evidence is hard to come by of whole rakes where I can read the data panels. Paul Bartlett's site (http://paulbartlett....arcaggregatebox) seems to have photos from 1987 and 1992. In '87 they were unrefurbished PTAs but by '92 they were all refurbished JTAs. On your specific prototypes I can't really say, but there are certainly some wagons in other fleets that retain their old tops codes to this day on the wagon (not matching what is on TOPS) - some have even retained them through a repaint (presumably the people responsible just copied what was on the old TOPS panel?) Certainly some of the Yeoman ones still had PTA on the panels as late as 2004/05 as attached, although all the shots I have of ex ARC ones from the same time are JTA/JUA. Maybe ARC's maintainance team was just a little more on the ball when it came to lettering? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimleygrid Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Fantastic modelling Sir! The wagons have come out a treat. I remember seeing them in service for British Steel passing through Newport behind a 60, your kit would look good in BS colours. I think that you should make a rake of BS ones too! A few years ago I became quite obsessed with the British Steel PTAs/JUAs that run between Immingham and Scunthorpe and so managed to get a rake of those built. I look forward to seeing photos of a construction Grid or 60 pulling your rake. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyneux Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 Thanks all for the comments! Looking forward to seeing the completed rake of ten wagons. Me too!!! I need to get my a*se in gear as this is in danger of becoming a stalled project again. Maybe ARC's maintainance team was just a little more on the ball when it came to lettering? Thanks Martyn for the photos. I wasn't aware that the Yeoman ones stayed as PTA until 2005... amazing! Apparently ARC had a contract with Marcroft Engineering to maintain these wagons. I've recently managed to get a copy of "Rolling Stone" and that information is mentioned in the commentary as well as several shots of PTAs and PGAs undergoing repair in the wagon works at Whatley in the early 90s. Certainly all the ARC stuff looks immaculate, but I suppose a lot of it was fairly new back then. I think that you should make a rake of BS ones too! Interesting you should mention this: I was considering a micro-layout based on a working ore tippler. Sergent produce a working rotary coupling ( http://www.sergenten....com/Rotary.htm) which, if used if fitted could allow for an interesting operation. I'm still scouring books and the web for pictures / videos of the UK tipplers in operation. Walthers do a kit for one but it would be nice to make it look more like the UK prototype. I look forward to seeing photos of a construction Grid or 60 pulling your rake. Don't worry - there will be plenty of both! They are mostly sitting in boxes waiting to be renumbered / repainted. Ideally I'd like 56001 as a signature loco for the layout but I'll have to wait for Hornby to re-issue their Romanian Grid (or scour eBay). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyneux Posted September 25, 2012 Author Share Posted September 25, 2012 They are multiplying! Three more completed and time for a pause now to crack on with the layout. The last things to finish off on them is to give them data panels and then to paint and fit Colin's hand wheels that I have made-up into a small tree. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 Hi Lyneux, An excellent rake (cut?) of wagons! A train of ten of these is going to be quite a sight (and rather long - 8ft?). Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyneux Posted October 21, 2012 Author Share Posted October 21, 2012 An excellent rake (cut?) of wagons! A train of ten of these is going to be quite a sight (and rather long - 8ft?). Hi Colin, here's a preview of 8 (10 was too wide for my screen)... enjoy! Guy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyneux Posted October 21, 2012 Author Share Posted October 21, 2012 I rather liked Jim Smith-Wright's magnetic brake pipes idea (http://www.scalefour...brakepipes.html) so I thought I'd have a go at fitting out my PTAs with them. Using Jim's "refined" method of mounting the magnets sideways to the elastic cord, the only thing I didn't like was the lack of detail around the stop-cock. I was wondering what to do about this and contemplated 3D printing this part. However, yesterday I struck upon the idea of taking one of the Replica mouldings from RA104 (http://www.replicara...ies/accessories) and chopping the stop-cock off and then drilling out a hole to fit the elastic cord into. The result is as per the photos below. I found that the best way to fit and assemble is: 1) Assemble the pipes and the magnets as per Jim's instructions - although I used an 11mm length of cord (rather than Jim's 15mm). 2) Paint the Replica parts on the sprue 3) Drill a 1.2mm hole in the bufferbeam in the appropriate location (checking the prototype of course!). 4) Glue in place the Replica part. I found it easier to get the orientation correct by gluing in the whole Replica part at this stage as you still have the moulded pipe to hold with your fingers. 5) Snip off the moulded Replica pipe, file flat and drill out using a 0.6mm drill. 6) Dip the end of the elastic pipe into superglue and insert into the drilled out Replica block. Fitting the Replica part before attempting to drill out the 0.6mm hole means that you can get the hole as "vertical" as possible so that the pipe hangs downwards. Notice the difference on the first photo where the right hand wagon has been fitted using this method whilst the left hand wagon's part was drilled prior to assembly resulting in the pipe sticking out more horizontally than I'd like. Magnet's were purchased from Guy's Magnets (http://www.guysmagnets.com). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 I rather liked Jim Smith-Wright's magnetic brake pipes idea (http://www.scalefour...brakepipes.html) so I thought I'd have a go at fitting out my PTAs with them. Using Jim's "refined" method of mounting the magnets sideways to the elastic cord, the only thing I didn't like was the lack of detail around the stop-cock. I was wondering what to do about this and contemplated 3D printing this part. However, yesterday I struck upon the idea of taking one of the Replica mouldings from RA104 (http://www.replicara...ies/accessories) and chopping the stop-cock off and then drilling out a hole to fit the elastic cord into. The result is as per the photos below. I found that the best way to fit and assemble is: 1) Assemble the pipes and the magnets as per Jim's instructions - although I used an 11mm length of cord (rather than Jim's 15mm). 2) Paint the Replica parts on the sprue 3) Drill a 1.2mm hole in the bufferbeam in the appropriate location (checking the prototype of course!). 4) Glue in place the Replica part. I found it easier to get the orientation correct by gluing in the whole Replica part at this stage as you still have the moulded pipe to hold with your fingers. 5) Snip off the moulded Replica pipe, file flat and drill out using a 0.6mm drill. 6) Dip the end of the elastic pipe into superglue and insert into the drilled out Replica block. Fitting the Replica part before attempting to drill out the 0.6mm hole means that you can get the hole as "vertical" as possible so that the pipe hangs downwards. Notice the difference on the first photo where the right hand wagon has been fitted using this method whilst the left hand wagon's part was drilled prior to assembly resulting in the pipe sticking out more horizontally than I'd like. Magnet's were purchased from Guy's Magnets (http://www.guysmagnets.com). Hi lyneux, Very nice indeed. The brake pipes looks very impressive - as does the preview of the whole train. Where did you get the elastic cord? I tried Bungee cord filaments, but they were too thick, which was a pity as the colour was good. It did strike me that if you were to run these wagons as a fixed rake, the brake pipes between wagons could be made as a continous 'pair' of pipes permanently connected to one drain cock, with the magnetic connection on the other drain cock and the loose end of the 'pipes'. The connections in the middle would be dummies, with the outer ends as you have shown here. Or, for more flexibilty of wagon formations, why not have the magnetic connction on each drain cock rather than in the middle with a dummy central connection as above?! Just a thought. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyneux Posted October 21, 2012 Author Share Posted October 21, 2012 The brake pipes looks very impressive - as does the preview of the whole train. Where did you get the elastic cord? I tried Bungee cord filaments, but they were too thick, which was a pity as the colour was good. Hi Colin, it's only cheapo black elastic from Robert Dyas (Korbond - yellow packet). When you cut into the webbing you find about 6-8 filaments of rubber cord which look to be round cross section and about 0.5mm in diameter. The colour is good too - satin black. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 Hi Guy - Very nice trick using the Replica pipes - I always thought the stop-cock on the replica pipes was quite nice - the bobble they put on the other end isnt as nice though. I've never seen the rubber cord in Rovert Dyas before? The stuff I use comes like this I bought a huge roll from a sewing shop - it has 14 strands in it , but the rubber is dark grey , rather than black, and when you look very close its very slightly 'ribbed' - like a pipe. I use it for ETH and multiple working Jumper cables - to replace the moulded ones so they cant get broken. It looks a little different to the cord you've got - next time we meet up ill give you some to try - (I've only got 280 meteres of it though!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimleygrid Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 Looking good Guy, can't wait to see the completed rake and your layout. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thesmudge Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 This is a great thread, I was looking to do something quite similar to what you have done and have been trying to track down ood pictures and sizes of these wagons, I think now your pictures could help me out. Looking forward to seeing these finished. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
d winpenny Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Looking great David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSTFAN13 Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Hi Following This With Interest And Was Just Wondering What Buffers You Used(E.g. Company... Dart Castings) Cheers HSTFAN13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyneux Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 Hello HSTFAN - they are from Wizard Models and are their 16 inch oleos. Hopefully I'll have one with me on the DEMU stand at Warley this year. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSTFAN13 Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Hello HSTFAN - they are from Wizard Models and are their 16 inch oleos. Hopefully I'll have one with me on the DEMU stand at Warley this year. Hi Cheers Could You tell me if these are 16 inch or 18 inch ( i know it says above but in a post on first page someone asks what buffers and you put 18 inch so was just double checking) Thanks HSTFAN13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyneux Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 I'll check again tonight. Sorry for the confusion! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSTFAN13 Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 I'll check again tonight. Sorry for the confusion! Thanks I'll Check On Here Later As Well To See What Size It Is Thanks Again Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyneux Posted November 18, 2012 Author Share Posted November 18, 2012 I checked this morning. They are 18 inch oleos. I think the confusion came as wizard had run out of 18s; so I bought some 16 inch ones and some 18 inch heads to fit to them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stadman Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Saw and purchased a pack of brake pipes from EDM models stand at Shepton Mallet last Saturday. An American brand with real rubber pipes, probably only need add magnets. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyneux Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 Saw and purchased a pack of brake pipes from EDM models stand at Shepton Mallet last Saturday.An American brand with real rubber pipes, probably only need add magnets. Sounds interesting, any more details/photos? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stadman Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Sounds interesting, any more details/photos? San Juan Car company 5106 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.