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'Bespoke' windows on acrylic sheet

windows scratchbuilt acrylic




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24 replies to this topic

#1 Chubber

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 14:07

Jan
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Posted 31 December 2011 - 15:00
Hi, Santa

I'd like a Thames lighter in 4mm, and some way of making 'bespoke' window frames on A4 acetate sheet please. :)

Happy 2012......




Whilst I can not offer any hope of a Thames Lighter, I can offer the following on making your own window frames in any colour, size or design provided you have some slight ability to use a drawing programme on your 'pooter.

You'll need some self adhesive A4 paper sheets and some acrylic sheet.

First draw your window design, on the screen to whatever colour you want. I'd advise using a pale grey lines if you are making white window frames because black lines will show up badly if you mis-cut the framework.

Then print out, stick to the acrylic sheet and lightly cut out around the outlines so as to cut through the printed paper but not the acrylic.

You need not cut out individual 'panes' of glass, simply cut straight through each intersection. A new, sharp blade must be used, obviously so that the paper is not torn or raised up. When all the intersecting cuts have been made, pick off the paper covering the glass panes using tweezers.

Curved cuts can be made using a compass cutter.

There is a picture of some windows I have made in just this way here


http://www.rmweb.co....__1#entry553581

[Post 17]

It also gets round that old card modelling conundrum of 'How do I print white window frames....'

Doug


P.S. Ultimately, even if you do not have a drawing programme on your 'pooter, there is no reason why you could not draw such an outline with a pencil and ruler....

D

Edited by Chubber, 16 February 2012 - 14:10 .

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#2 cornamuse

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 20:20

very cool :)

#3 col.stephens

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 08:07

Doug,
I tried this recently and found that the window printed dead centre on the A4 sheet. I could't work out how to move the printing to the edge of the sheet as you recommend. My knowledge of computers is somewhat limited. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Terry

#4 noiseboy72

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 09:01

This method also lends itself to my Craft Robo cutter. I apply labels to the acetate film and feed it through the cutter. I can cut down to 0.4mm resolution and can also print the surface first. Great for adding a bit of grime, glazing detail, that sort of thing.

As per your method, I then remove the the unwanted sections with a scalpel blade and tweezers, leaving the fine glazing behind. My first model was a "Glasshouse" signal box with a glass station canopy to follow.

I found that labels can also be purchased in a thicker material - sold for covering up old labels apparantley! These give a little more relief for older sash windows where the depth works well. It also prevents light bleed through the white paper and the adhesive is more forgiving.

#5 JCL

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 16:14

Hi Doug, I'm about to make a start on a signal box so this post (and the link) is perfect timing for me.

#6 StuartM

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Posted 06 June 2012 - 15:18

Why not print your windows directly onto the Acetate sheet,
I've done this and it works rather well see down the bottom of page 8
http://www.rmweb.co....t/page__st__150

#7 14Steve14

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Posted 06 June 2012 - 16:58

Printing directly onto the acetate sheet is fine as you want black window frames.

We produce 4mm scale buildings, and have a real problem with any other colour apart from black. We are now currently having some samples done, by a local vehicle graphics company to see if they can get fine enough lines for us. If this is sucessful i wil let you know.

#8 noiseboy72

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 20:40

How thin do you need them ? I can cut vinyl down to about 0.7mm on the Craft Robo.

#9 14Steve14

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Posted 10 June 2012 - 11:38

We are currently looking at about 0.5mm or finer, especially for signal box windows.

#10 Coombe Barton

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Posted 10 June 2012 - 12:32

Take it you've seen these - http://www.brassmast...d_signalbox.htm

#11 daveblueozzie

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Posted 10 June 2012 - 19:58

I recently purchased scalescenes arches workshop fronts, on the download printouts are some windows that you can print onto tracing paper or acetate, i have neither.
i printed the windows onto the reverse of some cd label A4 sheets, peeled of the cd labels and discarded them ,it then left me with printed windows that light will shine through.
Posted Image
Posted Image

#12 dbanbery

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 10:34

when you say robo cutter, do you mean one of these?:

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item35af8bbb55

#13 Metalhip

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 11:41

That is the Silhouette Cameo which supersedes the Craft Robo cutter.

I bought one in February and wouldn't be without it,I make all my Scalescenes buildings as a kit of parts without the tedium of cutting window openings out.
The thickest card I normally cut is 220gsm and I build up the thickness required by laminating parts together.

Allan

#14 dbanbery

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 13:30

this is awesome. i need one of those machines.

how long do the blades last normally? this would save £££ on having my parts laser cut! i think!

#15 Metalhip

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 18:19

this is awesome. i need one of those machines.

how long do the blades last normally? this would save £££ on having my parts laser cut! i think!


I'm still using the blade that came with the machine.

Allan

#16 dbanbery

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Posted 21 August 2012 - 14:14

I'm still using the blade that came with the machine.

Allan


Cheers for that, my interest in the thread was not to intentionally Hijack it.

#17 leadie69

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 12:35

Hi Everyone,

 

I have just tried Chubber's method and it works really well except that I am left with some residue of the label adhesive on the acrylic (looks like a smudge on the window). 

 

Any suggestions on how to deal with this?

 

Thanks,

 

Ian


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#18 hymek2

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 01:23

Hi Everyone,
 
I have just tried Chubber's method and it works really well except that I am left with some residue of the label adhesive on the acrylic (looks like a smudge on the window). 
 
Any suggestions on how to deal with this?
 
Thanks,
 
Ian


Try using liquid lighter fuel (the stuff in yellow cans). Put a little bit on the end of a cotton bud and gently rub on the adhesive. Be careful not to get it on the actual window frame as it will soften the adhesive under that as well.
When I was in the printing industry many years ago we used cotton wool with lighter fuel to degrease artwork before moving onto the next stage of photographing it. This helped to stop dirt sticking to specs of adhesive left over from assembling the artwork.
It also works for removing price label residue on books etc.

#19 leadie69

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 11:59

Thanks Hymek2, will get some a give it a try soon.

 

Ian



#20 Eggesford box

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 13:30

Also try different labels as some seem to leave more residue than others. I bought a load of different labels to try and then found the best that I had lying around at the bottom of a drawer! Sorry but they where out of the packet with no markings on them so I cannot tell you whose they where.



#21 Peterkern23

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 15:11

Hi guys,

Buy a laminating machine from argos for a tenner or so.

Then visit this website and buy the foil in white:

http://www.craftycom..._FOIL-LAZ1M.htm

Buy some OHP acetate that has a printable side for a laser jet printer, this side will have a rough texture to it and is where the ink adheres to.

Print off your window shapes onto the paper in jet black ink and run it through the laminator with the foil paper on it.

The white foil will stick to anything on the paper that is black. Rub off the excess and voila!

Pete

Edited by Peterkern23, 25 February 2015 - 15:12 .

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#22 Captain Kernow

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 17:58

Hi guys,

Buy a laminating machine from argos for a tenner or so.

Then visit this website and buy the foil in white:

http://www.craftycom..._FOIL-LAZ1M.htm

Buy some OHP acetate that has a printable side for a laser jet printer, this side will have a rough texture to it and is where the ink adheres to.

Print off your window shapes onto the paper in jet black ink and run it through the laminator with the foil paper on it.

The white foil will stick to anything on the paper that is black. Rub off the excess and voila!

Pete

This sounds ingenious but I just can't picture the process or the final result - would you be able to post a few photos, please?

 

Thanks.



#23 Captain Kernow

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 18:00

I can offer the following on making your own window frames in any colour, size or design provided you have some slight ability to use a drawing programme on your 'pooter.


You'll need some self adhesive A4 paper sheets and some acrylic sheet.

First draw your window design, on the screen to whatever colour you want. I'd advise using a pale grey lines if you are making white window frames because black lines will show up badly if you mis-cut the framework.

Then print out, stick to the acrylic sheet and lightly cut out around the outlines so as to cut through the printed paper but not the acrylic.

You need not cut out individual 'panes' of glass, simply cut straight through each intersection. A new, sharp blade must be used, obviously so that the paper is not torn or raised up. When all the intersecting cuts have been made, pick off the paper covering the glass panes using tweezers.

Curved cuts can be made using a compass cutter.

There is a picture of some windows I have made in just this way here


http://www.rmweb.co....__1#entry553581



 

Hi Doug, I found the images of your work very good indeed (as usual!), but I really don't understand how you ensure that the windows are the correct size when you come to print them out. Surely blowing them up on the screen and then printing what's only on the screen will give you some windows that are far too huge for 4mm scale?



#24 Campaman

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Posted 23 March 2015 - 14:04

If you use a drawing program such as Draw that comes with the free office suite Libreoffice you can draw the windows to scale so that when you print they are to the correct scale, you can also import a graphic (Photo of some windows) and scale them to the correct size before printing, it sounds complicated but its not, its a simple matter of right clicking on an object within the drawing window and setting its size in mm using 4mm/ft etc.



#25 raymw

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Posted 23 March 2015 - 15:01

Irfan view, most image type programs, allow the prints to be made to any scale, or size, based on whichever way you wish - scale/dpi/actual size, etc.


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Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: windows, scratchbuilt, acrylic

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