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Simple diorama for model photography


newbryford

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Hi,

I'm thinking of building a simple scenic backdrop for photographing my models and projects. Rather than having to wait for a club night for access to the layout(s)

 

I'm looking at something about 30" long with double track - so I can comfortably sit a 2 car unit on it (I'm talking 00), or put two items side-by side, but how deep in front of the track would be ideal?

 

The track would be set a few mm above the main base level. Would it be better to have some sort of a full height scenic backdrop - 6-9" high retaining wall for example, or a full countryside scene with a fence and foliage and how far back should that be, or should I go down the plain blue sky route?

 

All ideas gratefully received.

 

Cheers,

Mick

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All down to personal preference of course, but, I think that raising your track(s) above base level (on an embankment) gives you more photographic opportunities.

 

This is an idea based on an answer I got when I asked a similar question here some time ago. (Back on a previous incarnation of RMWeb)

 

This idea seems to be used by "Buckjumper" and a few other top modellers so it can't be bad.

 

This is mine

post-6768-0-01729300-1329416469.jpg

 

It's about 600mm long and 250mm wide. But, only has single track, to accommodate up and down lines I suppose it needs to be a bit wider and for two coaches maybe a bit longer. The top of the back scene is about 150mm above track level.

 

HTH

 

Cheers!

Frank

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Mine is a simple embankment. I haven't put in any real scenic embellishments as for me it was just somewhere to take photos of rolling stock on.

My back scene is high but is a flat light blue. If I want to add "sky" later on it is very easy to with this background.

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Coachman has a simple track for his model photos, with very little backscene.

Sandhills used an embankment on one of his earlier dioramas.

Chris Nevard has a high embankment for his photo shots.

 

Given a free choice (as you seem to have), I'd go with their ideas.

 

Stu

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Here's my set up, the moveable photo backrop allows it always to be placed parallel to the camera 'film plane' (or 90 deg to the angle the camera is pointing in) to ensure maximum background coverage.

 

I have since rebuilt the track thingy so the grass doesn't get in the way of the wheels and such for low angle views like the below.

 

post-6681-0-89360900-1329558903_thumb.jpg

 

post-6681-0-38746700-1329559327_thumb.jpg

 

post-6681-0-99120800-1329559347_thumb.jpg

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Or the simplest set up ever.... an A3 sheet of photocopier paper under the loco, and then curved up behind resting on the stock box! This was taken on an office table under the office flu lighting, with the camera, a 'point and shoot' resting on the table it doesn't get simpler than this!

 

post-6681-0-47013900-1329560069_thumb.jpg

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Chris do you not think that the white is too brilliant and draws the eye away from the model? I started using white and do like the effect, but after reading some of Tony Sissons posts about photos of models and the suggestion that a grey background removes all the contrast issue (especially for point and shoot cameras) and lets you just look at the model and not the background. However I've struggled more with this than getting a nice shot with the white as above.

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Background is up to you, from a publishing point of view white fits in well with page layouts which tend to be white which means that text can wrap around the subject. For my own stuff I prefer something like the diorama approach, but I didn't have that available when I shot the class 22 for my blog.

 

The problem you might have with white is that the camera under exposes, so you'll need to tweek the exposure if the camera allows. I imagine grey suits auto exposure better though.

 

Me? white wins for this simple approach because there's nothing else to look at apart from the model if one thinks about it ;)

 

Here's another diorama approach, which is generally how the Warley review shots are staken. I used a pale grey/blue card which looks grey here!

 

post-6681-0-99911800-1329573444_thumb.jpg

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Chris do you not think that the white is too brilliant and draws the eye away from the model? I started using white and do like the effect, but after reading some of Tony Sissons posts about photos of models and the suggestion that a grey background removes all the contrast issue (especially for point and shoot cameras) and lets you just look at the model and not the background. However I've struggled more with this than getting a nice shot with the white as above.

 

I think Chris Nevard's shot above shows-off the model very well. My thoughts are that a white background is not necessarily intrusive at all and why manufacturers of many products use this method in their catalogues or on their websites. With many railway prototype shots, a typical UK grey sky may look white anyway, so may not detract from realism too much if that's what you're after. I personally prefer to use track mainly so it's easier to keep the wheels of large steam locos in check… and I use only natural light where possible as I only have a horrid flash option on my camera and no professional lights. Until I make a diorama I'm using a simple 'plank' and I place it on a high surface to get a more realistic view and it seems to work for basic purposes. I need to address my focussing problem though, perhaps with the stacking principle.

 

post-6878-0-83719000-1329573679_thumb.jpg

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Thanks guys,

I do like the white background, but for just model purposes like Chris's class 22. I have a bridge camera and it does allow me to tweak most settings with in reason. I can get down to 2.8f and upto 8f, I can limit the ISO, and alter shutter speeds, this I can all do manually or set some to auto. I don't use the cameras Auto as it has no idea what to do with flou lighting, whereas set manually It copes very well. It lets me set the colour temp by K. Which I think isnt bad for a bridge camera.

 

This was my effort albeit on a loco pre detailing:

 

 

6302220994_364596a3e4_z.jpg

 

But I am working on a scenic style photo diorama too.

 

Dave

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I've acquired a plywood base, and the raised trackbed will be built on foamboard - no need for major strength as it's only supporting a couple of items of stock. I'll post pics of the progress here.

 

Cheers,

Mick

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I discovered a few lengths of 3mm MDF about 2" wide, so these were commandeered to support the track bed - made from 5mm foamboard.

 

20 minutes work with a hot glue gun produced the following:

 

post-408-0-29531800-1329941854.jpg

 

 

Another 20 minutes with some Evostik and one of the lines is already laid with some old reclaimed track. It's my intention to allow it to be connected to a DCC supply, so I can power up lights as required.

 

post-408-0-14812400-1329941888.jpg

 

And I discovered my old pale blue backboard in the loft - bonus!

 

Cheers,

Mick

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Mick,

 

Is that cork on top of the foamboard for the trackbed? If so, you might want to take a look at this before going any further. With luck, you may be ok with those MDF verticals and using Evo-Stik impact but, as you'll see, my experience of foamboard, PVA and cork was not a happy one. I've now gone back to plain foamboard for the trackbed and all is fine.

 

Nick

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I was probably an early exponent of a diorama with track on an embankment. This was to allow shots at track level with scenery showing below the track. I shoot against a creamy coloured garage wall most of the time outdoors. This wall either comes out white if over exposed of is coverted to white on computer.

 

Indoors I shoot detail and 'under construction' shots on the white leaves of an open book under artificial light. The yellow cast is converted to white and a bucket of white does the rest to make the model stand out.

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Mick,

 

Is that cork on top of the foamboard for the trackbed? If so, you might want to take a look at this before going any further. With luck, you may be ok with those MDF verticals and using Evo-Stik impact but, as you'll see, my experience of foamboard, PVA and cork was not a happy one. I've now gone back to plain foamboard for the trackbed and all is fine.

 

Nick

 

Hi Nick,

Thanks for that - no PVA used in the construction so far, although it's likely some will be used in the scenic covering. The evo has been used for the cork to foamboard and track to cork.

 

I was probably an early exponent of a diorama with track on an embankment.

 

It's the likes of yours (and others) photography of models that has pushed me down this route for my own photos - if only for consistent results with a known background/base.

 

 

Cheers,

Mick

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A bit more work on the photo location.

As I mentioned above, I found my original pale blue backing board - I may add a bit of fluffy cloud effect.

The embankment is covered with foamboard using the now obligatory hot glue gun.

post-408-0-03032200-1330560678_thumb.jpg

 

A mix of polyfilla (that just happened to be lying around) and brown poster paint was then liberally applied to remove the flat profile. This pic was taken as the mix was still drying

post-408-0-44205800-1330560694_thumb.jpg

 

Once dry, I used a mix of brown poster paint and PVA and flock powder

 

post-408-0-76240900-1330560727_thumb.jpg

 

It still needs a few more bushes/clump grass, but not too much to take the eye away from model.

post-408-0-84815000-1330560745_thumb.jpg

 

Next experiments will be with the colour correction on my camera and a few different angles. I'll also try a few outdoor shots.

 

Cheers,

Mick

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  • 1 month later...
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Thirty-odd years old and somewhat bleached now. Built from chipboard, expanded packing stuff and cork sprinkled on glued paper. Sprayed to match spring colours, it is still in weekly use.....(excuse the equally scruffy table!)....

post-6680-0-03509000-1335287239.jpg

Is that the new grass I spy in the background ?

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