Dapol working signals review

[phil gollin]

... I grabbed a uniformed person from the drawer of spare little people, gave him a green flag and stood him at the base of the offending signal for a few weeks until I could replace it!

.

 

No wonder the railways lose money - you're very free and easy with the overtime.

 

.

[The Stationmaster]

.

 

No wonder the railways lose money - you're very free and easy with the overtime.

 

.

 

Nah, he's got that rather old-fashioned idea of keeping the trains running instead of putting all the passengers on a 'bus instead.

[NunneyCastle5029]

Just reading through this thread, i may well have missed a fix for these signals.

 

We have 2 on our club layout that have failed, with the led coming on for a second then nothing. Im guessing that its the circuit board?

 

any ideas or do we just get them replaced?

 

Cheers

 

Kevin

[phil-b259]

Just reading through this thread, i may well have missed a fix for these signals.

 

We have 2 on our club layout that have failed, with the led coming on for a second then nothing. Im guessing that its the circuit board?

 

any ideas or do we just get them replaced?

 

Cheers

 

Kevin

 

Try running them from a 9V PP3 battery - if its the internal AC-DC rectifier thats faulty the signals will work. If they don't work under battery power then unless you are very confident messing round with the internals then replacement signals will be needed.

[Suzie]

Since on my one the LED is simply connected in series with a 820R resistor between the black and red wires it would suggest that if the LED is going out after a time that the power supply is not adequate and is going in to current limit.

[sigtech]

Hello people. I have five Dapol 00 gauge signals, all lower quadrant (WR) on my layout - four work fine - (after I replaced one which broke some time ago), but now one has stopped working suddenly (today) - number 19 - platform 1 starting signal. it has a very dim lamp when powered up (much more realistic than the bright lamps of the other signals, - but there is no arm movement). I have checked the wiring from push button switch to terminal block connecting signal and all seems ok, they all run of 16v ac fed from a bussbar supplied by one of the auxiliary outputs of the transformer (Gaugemaster 100m). Touching the two yellow wires together does nothing, the motor does not run.

Would I be right in assuming that this means there is nothing that can be done and it is "buy a replacement time".?

 

Regards

(SIGTECH)

Steve.

Edited January 20, 2018 by sigtech

[Suzie]

Hello people. I have five Dapol 00 gauge signals, all lower quadrant (WR) on my layout - four work fine - (after I replaced one which broke some time ago), but now one has stopped working suddenly (today) - it has a very dim lamp when powered up (much more realistic than the bright lamps of the other signals, - but there is no arm movement). I have checked the wiring from push button switch to terminal block connecting signal and all seems ok, they all run of 16v ac fed from a bussbar supplied by one of the auxiliary outputs of the transformer (Gaugemaster 100m). Touching the two yellow wires together does nothing, the motor does not run.

Would I be right in assuming that this means there is nothing that can be done and it is "buy a replacement time".?

 

Regards

(SIGTECH)

Steve.

If The LED is dim there is likely to be some problem in the wiring to the red and black wires.

[sigtech]

Hello Suzie, Have checked with Fluke multimeter on ac, 17.2v across red and black terminals of choc block feeding wires to signal-have cut back and reterminated wires

twice, so next must be to carefully open up underboard signal tube (little Philips screw)and have a look?

Regards

(SIGTECH)

Steve.

[sigtech]

Well, the defective signal was removed from the layout and carefully opened up, (undoing the small black Philips screw - side mounted at the base of underboard motor housing) and carefully prising the casing apart using a knife blade in the slot running vertically from base of signal. (Youtube video worth  watching to show how its done).

4.7vdc applied across motor terminals inside (using a suitable redundant ac/dc mobile phone charger that I had, and a couple of short lengths of thin wire) and the signal 'buzzed' - so this time using wires fitted to signal the same voltage was applied to red and black wires - led was suddenly now lit!  and so, emboldened by this result the yellow wires were touched together again and hey presto, motor runs....Quick get it back together!

Signal carefully reassembled and tested again using same dc supply. led lit, touch yellow wires together and bingo!  the signal operates....

Signal refitted carefully to layout, wires reterminated in choc bloc under baseboard, finally signal tested using control panel push button and it all works....Time to quit while you're ahead!!

What was wrong? -  Gremlins !!  I don't really know, but at least  I have been able to sign 19 signal back in order again....

Regards,

(SIGTECH)

Steve.

Edited January 20, 2018 by sigtech

[Ruffnut Thorston]

>SNIPPED

>SNIPPED...

 

Time to quit while you're ahead!!

What was wrong? -  Gremlins !!  I don't really know, but at least  I have been able to sign 19 signal back in order again....

Regards,

(SIGTECH)

Steve.

 

Hold it!

 

There are "new" instructions from Dapol..

 

Do not use 16V AC!

 

Use a maximum of 12V DC....9V is good....

 

 

 

Power Supply Type:

We recommend using a

12vDC

stabilised power supply

.

The signal

will also operate from a 9vDC battery and accept AC power up to 14vAC. We strongly recommend

using a smoothed or regulated power supply. (Standard Transformers or auxiliary speed controller

power outputs can often produce spikes which may damage the signal).

 

 

 

http://www.Dapol.co.uk/image/data/pdfs/New%20signal%20instructionsV2.0.pdf

 

https://www.Dapol.co.uk/index.php?route=blog/post&post_id=37

[Andrew P]

 

Hold it!

 

There are "new" instructions from Dapol..

 

Do not use 16V AC!

 

Use a maximum of 12V DC....9V is good....

 

 

 

http://www.Dapol.co.uk/image/data/pdfs/New%20signal%20instructionsV2.0.pdf

 

https://www.Dapol.co.uk/index.php?route=blog/post&post_id=37

That IS correct and they work perfectly on 12 DC as per their NEW INSTRUCTION.

[sigtech]

Thanks for the info Sarah, - funny I've been operating all 5 signals for about 2 years using a bussbar fed from the 16v ac (uncontrolled) tapping on my Gaugemaster 100m, and this is the first problem I have ever had!  Only 1 other failure (my fault due to hamfistedness ).  I had not seen the revised Dapol installation guide for these signals.

Suppose I could try  the 3 pin 240 vac/4.8v dc 350ma mobile phone charger that I used to test this signal, to provide a dc  power supply and just dissconnect the two wires feeding the signal ac bussbars from the Gaugemaster and reconnect them to it for dc supply.!

 

Regards

(SIGTECH)

Steve.

Edited January 20, 2018 by sigtech

[sigtech]

Update: power supply swapped over - signals now running on a separate 3 pin 240vac/4.8vdc @ 350ma circuit, all are working o.k and leds not so bright as before.

 

Regards,

(SIGTECH)

Steve.

[Budgie]

I have just received a notification from Gaugemaster controls, announcing the following GWR Junction signals:

 

DA4L-001-005 Junction Signal GWR Right hand with two arms, shorter post to Right September £TBA

DA4L-001-006 Junction Signal GWR Left hand with two arms, shorter post to Left September £TBA

DA4L-001-007 Bracket Signal GWR Right hand with one arm September £TBA

DA4L-001-008 Bracket Signal GWR Left hand with one arm September £TBA

 

Rather than discuss these on this thread, I have started another one:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/135998-gwr-junction-signals/

[Piskey]

Interesting that there is a new set of instructions for these - I have just opened four new ones which all have the old instructions.

 

But that's by the by.

 

I have just set up a test wiring prior to inserting into the baseboard and there does seem to be one problem.  Not that they don't work but that they work too well!  Instead of moving up a nice 45° the arm moves a good 80-85° which is far more than a "good off"!

 

Please excuse me if this has been covered before (I looked but couldn't see anything) but before I open them up to investigate the internals is this a known problem with a recognised 'fix' please?

 

 

Peter

[Piskey]

 

I have just set up a test wiring prior to inserting into the baseboard and there does seem to be one problem.  Not that they don't work but that they work too well!  Instead of moving up a nice 45° the arm moves a good 80-85° which is far more than a "good off"!

 

 

And the answer is there is no way to adjust them ..... they are faulty!  After a pleasant and friendly exchange with Dapol I have been requested to return them so that they my be replaced.

 

So that's the answer to that!

[SHerr]

I decided to purchase a SR starter yesterday as a trial - worked quite nicely when testing before fitting up.

I then drilled the hole in the baseboard and started to fix up - as the plastic nut just pulled (and I genuinely was going gently) there was a crack. The plastic threaded bottom housing had split almost full length. I got it lined back up and pushed into place without much effort and seemed to fit ok - then tried operating- the motor works but doesn’t move the arm so I’m presuming something has dislodged inside?

any thoughts on an easy fix or should I send back? or will it be deemed that I broke it so tough? Really didn’t use any force so disappointing if they are that weak - shame as it looks nice and I would have bought about another 7 or 8.

[brenn]

12 hours ago, SHerr said:

I decided to purchase a SR starter yesterday as a trial - worked quite nicely when testing before fitting up.

I then drilled the hole in the baseboard and started to fix up - as the plastic nut just pulled (and I genuinely was going gently) there was a crack. The plastic threaded bottom housing had split almost full length. I got it lined back up and pushed into place without much effort and seemed to fit ok - then tried operating- the motor works but doesn’t move the arm so I’m presuming something has dislodged inside?

any thoughts on an easy fix or should I send back? or will it be deemed that I broke it so tough? Really didn’t use any force so disappointing if they are that weak - shame as it looks nice and I would have bought about another 7 or 8.

yes look on u tube and you'll find the easy fix video...it sounds like the spring needs locating

 

B

[SHerr]

10 hours ago, brenn said:

yes look on u tube and you'll find the easy fix video...it sounds like the spring needs locating

 

B

Many Thanks, I’ve looked at a couple of You Tube clips as suggested and it seems as though the spring has come off from the worm drive. Also looks like the casing hasn’t split it’s meant to come apart.

 

I haven’t had chance to try and fix yet but looks like I should be able to get it working.

 

The cases do seem very sensitive - I think I will drop a little glue between the case and the base when I know it’s working and not rely on the nut to fix to the board as that just rips the case out.

[Pendennis]

Excuse me if this has been discussed before but a quick search did not highlight anything.  I have just purchased a GWR Round post 4L-001-003.  I note it has an aluminium/silver post; I always thought that all GWR signal posts were white.  Is this a BR(W) thing or did the GWR have silver posts?

 

Martin

[Grafarman]

16 hours ago, Pendennis said:

Excuse me if this has been discussed before but a quick search did not highlight anything.  I have just purchased a GWR Round post 4L-001-003.  I note it has an aluminium/silver post; I always thought that all GWR signal posts were white.  Is this a BR(W) thing or did the GWR have silver posts?

 

Martin

 

I'd be interested to know this too as I have two of these I need to replace - both mine have failed; lights on, no movement, using 16v ac...have seen the posts above about the 'new instructions' but fear it may be too late for mine... a chap at Dapol, who was terse to the point of being rude, told me they couldn't help as they're too expensive to repair...

[brenn]

I can recall seeing photos of GWR signals with silver posts...not sure where.........Regarding the power supplies don't Dapol now recommend people change for a 16v Ac to 9v DC power supply due to the number of signal motors reported as faulty?

 

B

[The Stationmaster]

23 hours ago, Pendennis said:

Excuse me if this has been discussed before but a quick search did not highlight anything.  I have just purchased a GWR Round post 4L-001-003.  I note it has an aluminium/silver post; I always thought that all GWR signal posts were white.  Is this a BR(W) thing or did the GWR have silver posts?

 

Martin

The earliest tubular post signals (complete with wooden arms) definitely had posts painted white.  What I have never been able to run to earth is when the colour scheme was changed to using aluminium paint.  It might well be post Nationalisation but it could equally be very late GWR days.  As the signals are fitted with the second pattern of pressed steel arms, which appeared very late in GWR days, an aluminium coloured post is probably the most appropriate cloour. 

[Pendennis]

8 hours ago, Grafarman said:

 

I'd be interested to know this too as I have two of these I need to replace - both mine have failed; lights on, no movement, using 16v ac...have seen the posts above about the 'new instructions' but fear it may be too late for mine... a chap at Dapol, who was terse to the point of being rude, told me they couldn't help as they're too expensive to repair...

 

I was recommended this https://cpc.farnell.com/powerpax/pi315-09/ac-adaptor-9v-1-6a-desktop/dp/PW02354; my signals are working fine.  I am sure similar devices are available elsewhere.

[SHerr]

On 03/02/2019 at 12:17, SHerr said:

Many Thanks, I’ve looked at a couple of You Tube clips as suggested and it seems as though the spring has come off from the worm drive. Also looks like the casing hasn’t split it’s meant to come apart.

 

I haven’t had chance to try and fix yet but looks like I should be able to get it working.

 

The cases do seem very sensitive - I think I will drop a little glue between the case and the base when I know it’s working and not rely on the nut to fix to the board as that just rips the case out.

Having been away most of the week I had a go at a repair last night. The You Tube clips all say to unscrew the tiny screw at the bottom - however the new version doesn’t appear to have a screw - it has a flat moulded place where one could have been. That said it is definitely held by something at the bottom and won’t prise off easily. 

 

Any ideas? I don’t want to force it and smash the assembly, but can’t see any other way it is held on - the case parts all the way to the bottom level with the screw blank but not enough to get inside to repair. It’s the new SR home starter/ladder signal.

 

Many Thanks

 

ps Yes I’m also emailing Dapol before someone suggests that but wondering if anyone else has sorted.